ferrariowner123

im going to assume dizzy cap means distributor cap? (been a long day) and i guess ill start there, and this might sound like a super noob question, but what piston is what number? i honestly have no idea. and you can move the distributor rotor? im going to go with its not easy? didn't budge for me (but not really trying to move it). I did have my car is gear while i was doing the belt change, (didn't really work, still had a ton of slope) And how long should the ECU take? because its probably ran a total of 35 minutes give or take since the change. What is the black magic you speak of? EDIT: i have some new info. I forgot to mention that, while i was driving home, the check engine light was flashing (low speed) and then when i jumped on the freeway and made it up to speed, it went solid, and then when i slowed down, (off the freeway) it started flashing, any ideas? Also, i started it today, and i started hearing a weird rattle, near the EGR side of the intake (Honestly i thought it was the EGR, but i don't know what to listen for, but it never made this noise before). and the engine is not as smooth as it sounded yesterday after getting it running. When we first started up it sounded fine, when you were standing over the engine bay, the way we knew it was misfiring, was the exhaust and revving it. unfortunately i don't have access to the code reader anymore, so i cant find out if i have any new codes. but ill will report when I get the problem fixed. Would a video help for you guys? i take a quick one and post it up here. Thanks again. -Kyle

Hey all, So i did my timing belt, water pump, tensioner, valve cover gaskets, and intake manifold gaskets yesterday, and all went well on that end, fixing a small timing issue, everything back together and appears to be running well. However, my issues began when after getting the car going again. At first, it wouldn't start,shot out an error code, initially of p1320 i believe, (distributor ignition interpreted). After some trial and error, eventually got it going, but man it was idling horribly, sounded like i just did a cam kit. It gave us a random misfire (P0300) and while were disabling the intake manifold i removed the distributor cap and wires, whilst doing so, one of the boots broke, causing use to break of the wires where it connects to the spark plug. So we fixed it to the best our abilities, and ran a little bit better. and i was able to limp home with NO POWER.EDIT: I just found out that a p0300 is actually a multiple cylinder misfire, which makes me think more and more that i did put the wire on in the incorrect way. Source; EC-172 in the FSM So im over nighting a new NGK kit hoping this will solve my problems, but i was hoping i could get a diagram for the distributor plug leads, basically what wire from what spark plug goes to what plug end on the distributor cap. (Really hoping that made sense) so that i can check and see if i might have plugged the wires in wrong, i never disconnected them from the distributor cap themselves, but im just trying to rule out anything and everything, because i really don't want to replace the distributor itself. Is there anything else it could be? anything else i should rule out? I am very confident that the timing is not the issue, everything was TDC when the belt was put on, and i followed the step by step guide to a T!!! we made triple sure the cams lined up the dimples, and that the crank lined up with the factory pen marks on the crank gear. and yes, i did check the service manual, there wasn't anything jumping out at me. maybe i over looked something. EDIT: Changed the title to hopefully get some more answers. Open to any suggestions. Check out post #4 some more info from me UPDATE #2: so it turns out I was a tooth off, but now it's down on power, I'm told it's either ignition timing or off a tooth between the cams and the cranks. Keep reading for more info? Thanks guys. -Kyle

Wait, Fram filters are no good?

How man miles were on the old coils? Im curious for my lift. And where did you order it from? Thanks man, get some pics up soon!! --Kyle

Yeah, thanks man, appreciate help, and i do remember reading that, but completely forgot it was on NPORA. -Kyle

For which build?

That right there, thats embarrassing. -Kyle

So i was bored, and thought i would look at a possible next car, love the look of the 240sx's that are JDM'ed to look like S14's, long story short is i came across this over at NICO http://forums.nicoclub.com/zach-s-build-thread-t470446.html Its an incredibly well done VH45 V8 swap, and a very good read (or scroll through if you have ADOSS, like me) and this got me thinking, and in a bad way. Why have't i seen anyone do this, i know there isn't a ton of R50 guys on here, but i feel like everyone on NPORA is more than capable of doing something like this. So whats stopping everyone? Now i know my lack of experience is talking so far out my arse its in the next county, but bare with me. I have no idea how much time and effort goes into one of these. lol -Kyle

Test it out, wont know till someone tries and reports back. I would to get more performance, 3.3 piece of crap sitting my engine bay. -Kyle

I found these guys a while ago. Not so much for specs, but great shoots interiors and exteriors, great resource. http://gtcarlot.com/data/Nissan/Pathfinder/ -Kyle

Tons of explosive, pressurized cans right next to 1500 degree welder? just hazarding a guess on that one, lol -Kyle

I don't even want to imagine how annoying draining ANYTHING without a drain plug will be. That is litteraly as obvious as it gets for one to be able to see that the engineer who designed that, wasn't an engineer or REALLY hated either ford, his job, or both! lol Nice user name! And i can average about 16 according to this app that have, completely stock, so I'm looking forward to my warn hubs!!! -Kyle

Previous owner was a dealer, but failed to address the minor leak coming for the passenger valve gasket (finally became a big leak and now im fixing that when the parts finally come in) Also promised to turn my check engine light off, and they did (not that impressive). Also, since my speedo worked, they said (Oh yeah, well get it fixed) four, 35 each way trips, replacing practically every speed sensor on this thing, and as i approach my 3 year anniversary, the stupid speedo, still doesn't work right. More of a rant that, but still, frustrating as all get out when you practically have to punch your instrument cluster just to get it to work as it should. lol -Kyle

Why were you surprised by the drain plug? -Kyle

Dang that thing is sweet!!! And sick shot of you welding!!! -Kyle

I think the point of the new spring is to push the car up with a heavier duty spring. but as you quickly found out, it only pushes the car as high up as the strut will let it. I say keep them, almost everyone i have talked to with the AC lift, seems to liking it. The swing came with my car, and its a huge pain, but it looks sweet, the advantage is im going to be mounting an air compressor and tank where the factory spare would go. My bet would be to just head over to a local junk yard. see what they have. Way cheaper than trying to ship it anywhere, it weighs A TON!!! -Kyle

Yeah, i hear you dude, i have yet to install mine, but guys on here have figured out ways to get around most of your issues. First, not too sure on this, but maybe some one else has a worth while answer. Second, camber bolts, i agree 4X4 is a HUGE rip off when it comes to their stuff and shipping, is a complete joke, $80 minimum to ship anything to me. Check out this thread http://npora.ipbhost...showtopic=32631 Explains where to get the right camber bolts that everyone seems to happy with (Hint; Rockauto, has them for $11 a pair) Third, Yes, unfortunately the stock struts dont go any longer, couple of guys on here are working on that. But to get that full 2" up front check out these guys http://www.nx4indust...om/r50susp.html Its a spacer kit that will lift the front end to match the rear, and yes i know, its more money, but ITS SO WORTH IT WHEN ITS DONE, Fouth, i think you if you can rent a second spring compressor kit, that, i think does the trick. Another thing worth mentioning is you need to get your wheels in order, with by replacing them or getting spacers. With the new lift, you could run into the chance of having some rubbing issues, so you need to push the wheel a little farther out from the center of the car. Basically the end result is getting a 3.75 inch backspace. so you can get new wheels, (CHECK OUT PROCOMP, PM for details on that) Second option (cheaper) is to get spacers, and you'll hear a ton of guys saying they mess with bearings, and cause you to get pregnant, but thats for you to choose. One guy on here has had spacers on his stock wheels for a long time now (two years now, think), he uses these. http://www.ebay.com/...#ht_1626wt_1139 So i hope i answered all your questions, and just post up in here if you have any others. Post pictures when your down, i love seeing guy's newly lifted rigs!! -Kyle

I second the first part of posting new topics. Does anyone have a YouTube link to the pathy vids? Thanks -Kyle

^What he said, here are some good links from the pinned section as well as a few other places.. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4990 http://forums.nicoclub.com/suspension-lifts-101-t491011.html Btw, welcome to NPORA!! -Kyle

Didn't 01silverpathy have to weld his because it was shuttering and vibrating at high speed? I dont think he had to seal it, but weld it to the frame right? He posted a video of the shift he had, would like to it, but i don't remember where it was. Okay, but i thought the point of the spacer was to level out the car? i had no idea it was because the shock was topping out. You mentioned you have the catalog, i hope its better than their one only, which is frankly useless. Is there anyway that we can find out the info on our stock length shocks, like length compressed and open, spring mount size, etc. and then find the exact same thing as an after market one? i know that is the super hard way, but its a possibility right? there has to be something out there that has the same setup as our rigs. Anyone else have any suggestions ? -Kyle

If your asking to body lift your 01, its not possible. Its just how our car was built. Thats why everyone who wants crazy height, is doing the SFD's

Do share your idea!! But i just called Rancho,(hoping to get some part numbers) they claim to not make a front strut for our generation of pathfinders. So im do some researching, because i think i know what your thinking. Ill report back if i find anything. -Kyle

So that's what those little bits are on the bottom on my springs. (mine im guessing has completely fallen apart or was never installed when the suspension was redone) I've always wondered what those were and never looked closely enough on the diagrams i guess. My guess its a comfort thing, that piece of rubber would be the only thing that separates the spring, from the mount on the struts. If its an inexpensive part, i say go for it, but to be honest, i don't think i have any rubber on my front springs, and i don't noticed anything out of the ordinary, but then again, I've only had this car for two years or so, so i probably don't know what its like to have the rubber piece, if there is a noticeable difference. Im curious to hear what others have to say. Hope we can get you the answer you need, BTW: Welcome to NPORA!! -Kyle

But as long as the wires are specifically made for your car there usually shouldn't be an issue right? or is it branding at this point? -Kyle