rtm5003

Hello all, A few months back, I tore into my recently-purchased 113k-mile-old Pathy and replaced the Front and Rear Springs/Shocks/Struts as well as completely new upper strut mount assemblies and whatnot. I'm absolutely loving the OME/KYB/Bilstein combo so far. I have zero complains with this setup. Nevertheless, my front brakes are wobbling like crazy (and have been since I bought the truck,) so I've ordered up a set of OE replacement Brembo Rotors and Hawk LTS pads. While I'm at it, I'm going to swap out my drive flanges for Warn manual locking hubs as well, to reduce CV wear with the new lift. My questions is: Since I will have both the inner and outer wheel bearings off of the car, would it be wise to replace both of these bearing as well as their seals? Or can I get away with only replacing the seals and just repacking the bearings? All bearings are original with 114k miles as far as I know. The cost of the bearings is insignificant compared to the time it'd take me to get to them... What do you experts think?? Thanks again!

Used brandy new OEM Nissan strut bearings and mounts... It was making this sound both before and after the strut install...

Welp, the project is over and done with... About 3 hours, by myself, including clean-up and a trip to the store for some new bolts. The replacement arms are made by Beck/Arnley, have OEM Nissan stickers and part numbers on them, and were purchased on what can only be explained as an Amazon price mistake, considering they go for about $140/each usually BUT - I STILL have a clunk in the front suspension under low speed braking. And not 100% of the time, maybe 50%. It only really happens when I'm driving really slowly - making a k-turn, moving the car around in the driveway. When I hit the brakes, I get a clunk coming from the front suspension somewhere.. I've installed brand new struts, springs, sway bar bushings, and now LCAs. And the dealership replaced the sway bar end links 8k miles ago. I've only put 100 miles or so on the new suspension since I want to get it aligned before I drive it too much.. But I double-checked all of the nuts/bolts and they are tight... Does anyone have any ideas??? Thanks!

The replacements were relatively cheap ($70 each shipped) and I didn't want to deal with pressing the bushings in. So - basically because I'm lazy. I'm thinking of doing the split poly bushings in the rears, but I'm not sure yet. I've read about a few peoples' polys not lasting very long... I have no noticeable death wobble and the only clunk I had in the rear went away with the shock/spring/end link install, so I think my bushings might be in okay shape... Also - thanks for the help everyone. I'm hoping this should be a really quick job. My ball joints were replaced at the stealership (according to CarFax) at 60k, so I figure they should be good for another 50

I'm going to try to swap out my Front LCA's (4WD,) and I've searched all over this forum trying to find out whether or not I need to separate the ball joint from the knuckle... If I just remove the 6 bolts holding the LCA in place (3 to the chassis, 3 to the ball joint,) can I just drop the control arm out with the ball joint still attached to the knuckle? I think that would make my life a lot easier. Thanks.

So, while we're on the topic - what about the rears? Here again we have an upper spring seat, but is the bottom of the spring supposed to sit right on the rear diff carrier/axle assembly with nothing in between?

I've already purchased everything from 54034 and up - I wasn't too thrilled about reusing any rubber parts, as I'd rather do this once and not have to think about it for another ~60k miles (hopefully!) The 54034 rubber seats are only $15/each, so no big deal there. I would advise others to save their money on 54040, though, as these are just made of metal and are almost $40 a piece! We were talking specifically about the thin rubber rings that go around the springs - not the upper rubber spring seats, which are obviously required!! I purchased the KYB Boot/Bumpstop kit from Amazon, which is the recommended kit on the KYB website: http://www.amazon.com/KYB-SB129-Strut-Boot/dp/B001FY578K/

Taking a closer look, there is a pretty tight fit between the OME HD Spring and the upper rubber seat (54034). I think wrapping this with any sort of hose would make it impossible to assemble. The bottom, on the other hand, is just sitting on the strut, so I will wrap the first coil of those with some rubber hose. Does anyone have any input on wrapping the rear coils as well? In case anyone needs OME coil dimensions (I'm sure they're here somewhere already): Front HD Coils - 5/8" OD Coil OD 6" - tapers to 7" 15-3/4" long Rear Medium Coils - 9/16" OD Coil OD 6" 14-1/4" long

I was about 80% sure that they were totally unnecessary, but I wanted to get some input from folks with some experience. I appreciate the help. I know lowering springs are often wrapped in rubber tubing to prevent noise, so I didn't know if there was a similar idea behind these things. I've already dumped enough money into this project - I think I'll keep my 80 bucks. clkindred - I had thought about using a piece of black flexible hose, but then considered - if these things have no function anyway, why bother? Do you think it's worth the trouble? Thanks again.

Hello all, I posted this to "The Garage" and got no response, so I'm helping it will get a bit more attention in the R50-specific forum... I recently picked up a 2002 R50 Pathy SE 4WD M/T with 112k on the clock. Loving it so far, but the suspension is mostly shot, so I've started building up an inventory of replacement parts for it... I've found a TON of valuable information on this site - so thanks for all of your useful input everyone! I decided to go with OME HD Front and MD Rear Springs along with KYB Excel-G's (GR2's) up front and Bilstein 5100's in the rear - these are all sitting at my house now waiting for install... I also purchased all of the required strut mounts, bearings, etc. from NissanPartsZone.com. (Also got some replacement bushings and end links for F&R sway bars and panhard rod. Poly bushings for LCA's and Trailing arms are next!!) My question is regarding the Front Spring Seat Rubber - 54034+B and 54034+A as shown in this diagram: Are these required, or do any of you just install the lift springs right on the strut with no rubber? Each of the upper and lower rubber seats is like $20, and I'd really rather not spend $80 if not required... More pics of these bad boys: 54034+A 54034+B Thanks in advance for any advice.

Hello all, I recently picked up a 2002 R50 Pathy SE 4WD M/T with 112k on the clock. Loving it so far, but the suspension is mostly shot, so I've started building up an inventory of replacement parts for it... I've found a TON of valuable information on this site - so thanks for all of your useful input everyone! I decided to go with OME HD Front and MD Rear Springs along with KYB Excel-G's (GR2's) up front and Bilstein 5100's in the rear - these are all sitting at my house now waiting for install... I also purchased all of the required strut mounts, bearings, etc. from NissanPartsZone.com. (Also got some replacement bushings and end links for F&R sway bars and panhard rod. Poly bushings for LCA's and Trailing arms are next!!) My question is regarding the Front Spring Seat Rubber - 54034+B and 54034+A as shown in this diagram: Are these required, or do any of you just install the lift springs right on the strut with no rubber? Each of the upper and lower rubber seats is like $20 each, and I'd really rather not spend $80 if not required... More pics of these bad boys: 54034+A 54034+B Thanks in advance for any advice.