1994SEV6

hmm. that's weird. When I looked at the pictures, I couldn't even tell. If I follow my eyes along the rear bumper from the drivers side to the pass. side, then it seems like I do see a slight slight increase slope. If I just look at it as a whole, then it looks perfectly level. It might be from the angle of the camera, but it looks like the driver's side corner if your bumper is bent up in a way. I don't know much about Pathy suspensions, but it may be that the driver's side wheel gets off the ground first because of the panhard bar. The bar is only exerting any kind of force on the driver's side. I read AK9849cy's thread about the panhard drop bracket and I also thought that the purpose of the panhard bar was to keep the rear axle in place and prevent it from moving side to side. Your pathy says SE, why does your mini-profile say XE? Try re-angling the panhard with a bracket or something else and see if that solves the problem. If it doesn't then I think you have to put it on a lift to eliminate error caused by the jacks or something like that.

I really appreciate your efforts. That's how things should be done.

so true!! The heat is amazing. I start it up, and within 3 minutes I'm on fire. I think this is because Nissans have superior cooling. So they very effectively remove heat from the engine and channel it properly.

removed the skid plate on the gas tank. The front two bolts were easy as could be. The back two bolts had a death grip. OMG..gave myself insane blisters getting those off. Anyway, got the skid plate off...SOOO much gunk. Brake cleaner is the best invention ever. I don't know why they don't sell this @!*% on TV. If they used brake cleaner in their commercials, then the product would actually do what they say.

ok. thats pretty good. I will admit, if you HAVE to go somewhere, the dealer is probably the best place. For the most part, dealerships have trained mechanics and employees. Their productivity depends on it. Jiffy Lube is like "..eh..whatever. minimum wage for the win". I will give the dealer credit for actually knowing the vehicles. They would be least likely to do it wrong. just curious, a loaner car for what?

For once, I completely agree with Nunya. Going to the dealer would be a complete waste of money. The dealer's purpose is to sell cars. They will sell you parts and service your vehicle, but at an extremely high price because they don't care if you do it or not. An oil change would be a ridiculous price. That's reason #1 to not go to the dealer. Your other choices are to do it yourself or have a quick lube shop do it. Do you have any idea how many engines Jiffy Lube destroys because their employees forgot to add the oil when they were done? Nunya makes excellent points. The employees can't possibly know how much to put in every single individual car. Even between the exact same cars, they can have different engines with different sized oil pans. Their main goal is to get you in and get you out as fast as possible. That's how they make money. Those quick lube chains do use the cheapest oil possible. Just call and ask them. For the most part, they won't even try to hide it. Jiffy Lube does specials like $10 oil change. Well, if you read the fine print or ask them, that $10 only includes like 4qts of conventional oil. Not even a filter or anything. Drain plug out, catch oil, drain plug in, fill oil. That's all. Then the prices start to jump. Jiffy lube wanted like $30 for a synthetic blend oil change, and then they wanted $64.99 for a full synthetic oil change. I don't know about you, but $64.99 is not 'marginally' above the cost of my oil and filter. Hell, I'm currently using Royal Purple at $10 a qt, and it still didn't even come to $60. Just do it yourself. It will take all of 10mins and you will have the satisfaction. Besides that, you know EXACTLY what's going in and what's coming out of your engine. Well, you might say "I don't want to get dirty" or "I don't have the time to buy the oil, get under the car, change the oil, and then responsibly dispose of the oil". How long do you think it will take at Jiffy Lube? 10 mins? I think not. You have to drive there, then make an appointment, or maybe make an appointment then drive there, then you have to hand your keys over to some greasy high schooler, then you have to wait for it to be done. At this point, they have you over a barrel and they can take as long as they want. Then you have to get your car back and hope it was done properly. I think 10mins and $30 is cheap insurance.

YES YES YES!!! LOL I only watched up until like 4 minutes before I started to skip around, but what did they do? They spray painted the whole thing black. So, they made it go from looking decent to terrible in about the same time that Pathy could go from 0-60 They put grates on the windows? Removed the backseat and those triangular windows behind the front seats? Math a hatch and reinforced the bumper? Shoulda used a rusted Ford Bronco from the 70s.

no. don't turn the car on. you shouldn't be in a car when it's on the jacks. Much less have it turned on. You can still do everything to engage 4x4 without the engine being on. The t-case will still go into 4wd and the hubs will still lock.

check the driver's side sun visor. Flip it down. Idk about 89s, but it might have 4x4 instructions.

Try pushing the shifter towards the floor. That seems to be a facepalm problem. auto hubs have no electrical components whatsoever. That burned wire you are referring to is your oil pressure sender unit wire. I suggest to get it fixed, but your engine won't blow up without it.

same here. cloth seats don't really change anything. If it's cold..so what? If it's hot, it makes a little bit of difference, but nothing like leather sticking to your skin.

The cupholder situation is hard. Nothing really work. The obvious solutions turn out badly. The only real solutions are to get a JGC console, or some other really rare accessories. I think the JGC is a very good match, but it's not perfect. The other accessories I mentioned are cupholders that go into the DIN slot or..something else I forgot. There are some creative solutions out there. Here's my personal favorite

HA. yeah. You sure do catch on fast. eh..once the clear coat fades (about a week of the showroom floor), then it's hard to see the color unless you're looking dead on. The hood looked completely devoid of clear coat. The rest was just dirty. To be honest, all you need for your truck is a hood right? I mean, you need more than that, but the other parts are generic. That Pathy in the ad looks GREAT for a parts vehicle, but it wouldn't be a good candidate for fixing up. It doesn't look very well cared for at all. Here's my idea.. buy the truck, or the hood if you can I suppose. Just paint it. It already looks like the hood is primered (not as in "I think there's primer on the hood. As in It LOOKS like primer). The prep work wouldn't be that bad. The rest of the parts you need are the grill, core support, and bumper? The color of the truck doesn't matter with those parts.

hmm.. That's a weird one. If it wasn't so dirty, it would be much easier to tell. From the front (except the hood), it almost looks like it's dark purple. And they made them in dark purple. Hardbodies at least. From the back, it looks grey. I don't think it's black though. Just call and ask.

yeah. thats probably true. I've only sat in leather seats three or four times. I wouldn't pay extra at the dealer for leather, but I would buy some on the cheap to replace my cloth seats anytime.

wow. I would love to have leather seats. Personally, I don't like the heated function. It's nice, but for me it' a nuisance. you turn it on. it's nice. ohh it's too hot. you turn it off. you turn it on...too hot. That's just my experience with heated seats. Besides that, why would I want my ass to be warm? Your (idk about yours personally) butt is probably one of the warmest place. It has the most flesh and a lot of blood flow. Now..if they made a way to heat my hands and feet then fskc yeah

WUT? No power seats? That doesn't even make sense. I'm sorry for assuming, but I've never seen leather seats without the power function, much less HEATED leather seats. I was just giving experience on my friends truck.

One wiring harness fits all really does apply to these vehicles, but it doesn't apply for extra components. For example, my truck has all the plugs for all the sensors and switches for Cruise control, but I would have to add a lot of junk to have cruise control. The wiring is all there though. I suppose this isn't 100% true though. What about those certain model Pathfinders that have those tweeters in the window pillars from the factory? Anyways, just have a look around for some plugs. There are usually a few. The seats have (or should) have heat, and a full range of movements. Look around, but don't go tearing your truck apart. If there is such a thing as the timer and what not, then I would think you would have to connect the seats, and then wire the seats to the timer and switches. This could all be one big wire, but it might have also been separated into two wire bundles or something. Just experiment on a Pathfinder in the junkyard. A friend and I did the exact same thing on his truck. He put heated leather seats in. Chevy doesn't exactly follow the same ideology with wiring harnesses. If you need to re-position the seat, or give it a little bit of power, you should be able to plug in some of those 7.2v battery packs for R/C cars and things like that.

you covered all the basic stuff. Sounds like you might have a timing problem. I think the least amount you can be off with the timing belt is one tooth. But I think if you are even one tooth off, your engine will run terrible. It won't smash valves just yet, but I think you would have more than a slight dragging feeling. The knock sensor seems like the most plausible thing with the info you gave. If your engine is actually knocking, or if the sensor is faulty, then timing will be retarded and the air/fuel mixture will be affected. When I started to read your post, and I was only done with the top paragraph, I was instantly thinking EGR or some sort of valves like that could be gummed up somehow. Also, check your MAF sensor. I might be getting this mixed up, but if it's dirty or if the wire is loose, then the truck will be fine at idle, but it will stumble and hesitate under load.

Oh yeah. I did google the "dissimilar metal corrosion". That was pretty interesting. At first, the article was talking about when a current is applied between two different types of metal but then it went on and explained without current. That's really interesting that just because two metals aren't the same, they can corrode. I know why the drain plug won't come out. I'm not...mad, I guess, that it's been subject to heat, grime, "dissimilar metal corrosion", etc. I wasn't trying to start a fight over weather the drain plug was steel or not. I was wrong. I really expected something made of "steel" to not be torn up by a breaker bar so easily. I even put a jack under the breaker bar to prevent it from twisting and slipping. No luck. Oh well. Something to deal with in the spring. el-cheapo AAP suction pump for now.. I know. I wasn't intentionally burning it. I wasn't keeping the flame on it. When I was moving the torch around, I would sometimes accidentally go over some of the plug. It would instantly smolder.

Wow. That's all pretty interesting. Boy, the systems and contraptions that people come up with... Tungsten, I don't know if you wrote that personally, but great explanation. Does anyone know the system to which vehicles had it? I was looking at pictures on the thread that Tungsten linked and I don't have that device with the vacuum hoses.

I wasn't aware that you could burn steel with a propane torch. So what about the fill plug? I'm not even going to ask about the differentials because those are probably steel. Why would the drain plug be hard to get out because of the "dissimilar metal corrosion", but not the fill plug? What about the t-case? That's not even a claim you can make. ^^^^^ Edit: I didn't mean Nissan. I meant people who own the trucks. I thought he meant "they used the proper tools" to remove the plugs. OF COURSE Nissan used the proper tool to originally install the plugs.

too bad there is no such thing as global warming, only climate change. very snazzy.

that plug is definitely not steel. It's WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY too soft to be steal. I had this exact same problem. The plug is tightened that much from the factory. Nobody could have tightened it that much on their own without leaving serious marks. Mine WAS perfect before I ruined it. The factory must put the plugs in when everything was still hot from being manufactured. I think they do this with most of the stuff. For example, the exhaust manifold studs. How would you get those studs in there without leaving marks? The thing that boils my piss is that the transmission drain plug is the ONLY plug that's torqued down like that. The drain/fill plugs for the rear diff, no prob. The drain/fill plugs for the front diff, a cinch. The drain/fill plugs for the t-case, even the weakest of 1/2 drives could have gotten those out. The fill plug for the M/T, easiest thing ever. Drain plug for the M/T...hardest thing ever. My plug is the definition of rounded. except for drilling it, there's no way it's coming out. I don't see why drilling it wouldn't work. Drill it, then use an easy out. If the easy out breaks, then you just made yourself a new plug. I don't see a downside.

oil cooler....? waaaaat? The thing in the picture you linked, and the thing in the OPs picture don't look anything alike. It's not exact, but it looks pretty similar to my truck. I don't have an oil cooler and if I didn't know better, I would make a hefty bet that that's a starter.