1994SEV6

Honestly, I have no idea about Pathfinders anymore. I have a Hardbody. I used to think they were identical, but I keep finding more differences. I didn't even know Pathfinders had alarm systems, but apparently they had them since before 1990. Sport/comfort option shocks? wtf? That stuff exists? I had no idea. DRLs? I don't remember any Hardbodies having these options. I have no idea what the alarm system does. I would assume draining your battery wouldn't be the primary function of it though.

hmm. Well if the battery is brand new..and the fuses are good, I would start checking for wires. Maybe the thief ripped out wires and tried to start it that way? Just look/feel around for loose wires or connections. Do you think anything was taken apart? Like the steering column? Also, do you think the hood was popped at all? Look for a loose ground wire. I'm a little confused...so...they opened the door somehow. Not that hard. You may have left the window down. You may not have locked the door. They could have used a hanger or slimjim type thing to unlock it. Are there forced entry marks on the door? that part is simple. What I get more confused about the more I think about it is this... You said the ignition was in the "ON" position, but there was no key. You think they used another key to turn the ignition. ^^^ If the ignition is in "ON", then you can't take the key out. And if they did use another key, then why couldn't they start it? Also, this happened with my dad. Not the whole dumbass-thief-tried-to-steal-my-car-and-failed, but some dumb b***h left the key on "ON" to listen to the radio. When the ignition is on "ON", it is much different than "ACC". If the engine is off, but the ignition is on "ON", then the fuel pump is priming, and other things are happening. My dad had to reset his fuel pump and some other stuff I can't remember. I think his fuel pump priming for 2 hours blew some stuff up. I think he had to replace some relays or something.

Does that mean someone used a screwdriver and broke it or something? Anyway, to answer your question, I would check your fuses. Sounds like a stupid thief. First of all...they tried to steal a mid-90s Pathfinder. No offence whatsoever. I love them, but they ain't worth a whole lot. They are easy to break into I suppose... Second, they can't even steal a car with next to zero security features? I can hotwire mine in about 120 seconds. They just left the door open with the ignition in the on position? Either someone really hates you, or there's an 11 year old out there with a fetish for Nissan Pathfinders. But yeah..just check your fuses.

Oh that's a good one. That's just being smart. That applies to alot of stuff. Thanks

I bought some Nissan OEM hubs the other day to swap out for my auto hubs. When I got the hubs in the mail, they looked very foreign to me, but I thought it would all make sense when I got my autos off. Well, after struggling with the bolts for a good while, I finally got my hubs off. There's a lot of black goop. Some red lube on the drivers one. The bolts have some shavings on them that smell like charred plastic. They look a bit different and I'm not sure I can figure this out on my own. Here are some pictures if someone could guide me. Thanks in advance

Fluids Engine Oil - Royal Purple Synthetic 5w30 Coolant - Prestone 50:50 something. Going to be getting rid of that soon ATF - Generic crap that Advance Sells MTF - Going to put Redline Mt-90 in Brake Fluid - Some generic DOT 3. My one caliper has a leak, so I think most of the fluid is fresh. Power Steering Fluid - No idea. Front Diff - Not sure Rear Diff - I hope there's gear oil Transfer Case - Not sure [*]Filters Oil Filter - Purolator Gold. From what I've read around here, I'll be upgrading this soon Air Filter - K&N In-Cabin Air Filter - Probably stock. Fuel Filter - Probably stock ATF Filter - Probably stock [*]Change intervals Fluids Engine Oil - Every 3,000 miles. I'm going to wait a bit longer since I'm using Synthetic Coolant - Need to do a complete flush ATF - I did it once MTF - Brake Fluid - Top it off once a month or so Power Steering Fluid - I check once every two weeks Front Diff - Needs to be done Rear Diff - Needs to be done Transfer Case - Needs to be done [*]Filters Oil Filter - one per oil change Air Filter - Brand new. About 400 miles old. I will be cleaning it in a year or so In-Cabin Air Filter - Soon Fuel Filter - Soon ATF Filter - Not gonna worry about it Hopefully over the next few days I can edit this list and fill it in with some good answers Oh yeah, I have a 1994 Nissan King Cab SEV6 4x4 with 128k miles. Since my mileage isn't TOO high, I hope none of my stuff is ruined too badly. I guess, if the diffs have been done even once, then I should be safe.

Right. I think that's what I read. With the ATF or gear oil, I think you're right. If you do hardcore wheeling, then gear oil is what you need. The high cost of the fluids is worth it and it will last a long time, but I don't think I have $200 to spare on stuff like that. I might do them slowly while worrying about the M/T and t-case for now.

Amsoil wants $15 a quart of M/T or gear oil 75w90. No complaints, just an observation. Advance sells the Mobil 1 75w90 for $11 a quart. Not bad. I noticed that Mobil 1 75w140 was $19 a quart though..doesn't that seem a little odd? Hey Town, about the lithium grease stuff. Do I just put some on my finger and just smear it around parts that make contact and slide?

Yeah, I read somewhere on here that the leaking doesn't happen. I think it went something like "there are seals between the two. And even if those seals break, then there are still other protections making impossible for them to mix". It pretty much said that it's impossible. Besides, even if it was, you would have to break a few seals on both the trans side and the t-case side. I think you would have worse problems than a little gear oil in your ATF. By the way. Thanks everyone for the input. I was looking up Redline. Boyyyy is that stuff expensive. $15 a quart, not including tax, or shipping. By my math, I think I need 9 quarts? 5 for the M/T, 3 for the rear diff, and 1.3-ish for the front diff? Jeez, that's like $135. I like to put the best stuff in my truck (especially since it's my first), but damn. A Royal Purple oil change costing me $60 is one thing, $135 on a bunch of lube is another. Wow. Towncivilian, I looked at those links. You are on top of stuff like nobody's business. Are you sure I don't have to pay for this service? You offer for free what other people can't even do while earning $15 an hour. Those coupons are sure to save me a bunch of money. You're the man!

Thanks. The other threads, and your response, reinforced a lot of what I knew, but I had other questions too. I thought the thing about the t-case taking either fluid was weird. If the t-case can take EITHER gear oil, or ATF, then that kind of makes them the same, right? If A=B and B=C, then A=C? Just by logic, that would make it true that you could put gear oil in your auto trans or ATF in your M/T. It's logical to think that, but I know it's dead wrong.

oh yeah. everything is huge nowadays. it's ridiculous. Have you seen the new Tundra? wtf??!!?!??! why is it soooo big? Same with the minivans. I sure hope that's an optical illusion. I still can't get over those Tundras though. You can't see anything. Wanna parallel park that thing? Good luck.. I don't think the Nissans have gotten too bad. The titan is sure a large truck, but the Frontier ain't too big yet

In the process of doing my transmission, I've noticed a whole bunch of things that need to be fixed or replaced. This made me realize that I don't want to be one of those neglectful owners that run their cars into the ground. I decided it would probably be a good idea to change all the fluids. Who knows if the previous owner did it, or when. I'm kinda scared of the fluid in my diffs coming out like tar. I was wondering where the drain plugs are. I see the weeping hole on my rear diff, but I don't think I ever noticed a plug at the bottom for drainage. The same goes with my front diff, but I never looked at that too carefully. I've read that filling the diffs with gear oil takes forever. Actually, I've done it once on my dad's truck. Talk about bottlenecking... Some people say it takes hours. I'm not sure if that is an exaggeration or not since I could believe it. I was wondering if there was some way to prop the bottle up? What about the power steering pump? I think I read somewhere that I have to use a siphon for that? And some guy around here recommended using synthetic ATF for the P/S? How do I do a brake fluid change? I bet that would involve bleeding the lines. As far as coolant goes, I just use that spigot type thing at the bottom of the radiator? Just hooking up a tube and letting it drain seems like it would do the trick. Oh yeah, what about the M/t and transfer case? I just bought a M/T from this guy, and it has fluid it in. I bet the fluid is new because that's the type of guy he was, but I think I got some water in there. How do I drain the M/T? Also, what's all this about a filler hole? I don't have one. Is there supposed to be a dipstick tube like on the ATF? Also, what brands of fluids should I use? I want to stay away from over-priced gas station BS. I've heard the brand Redline thrown around a lot, but I think it's rather expensive. Where can I dispose of the fluids? I know oil, ATF, gear oil, and P/S fluid are all oils, so they can go into that container that Advance Auto has. What about coolant and other things? I can't wait for the responses. Thanks guys

ouuu thanks. pretty helpful.

so...how do I open the hood? If I reach up, I just get tab that you lift to open the hood after it's already popped. I tried to lift this tab when I had my grille off, it doesn't do anything by itself. Is there like a hidden hook somewhere?

Those videos are very impressive. For some heavy ass SUVs (I guess that's what SUV means, right? haha) those things can go. As far as the whole reliability comparison, I'm sure both engines have a few flaws. I know the VG series pretty well and for the most part, they are rock solid. They are very low maintenance though. I think this is mostly because of their low compression. If you want a higher performance engine, then stuff is gonna break more often. With the VQs, I don't think they have been around long enough to make a blanket statement like that. The VQ engines are bigger, have higher compression, and are much more complicated as a whole. With all sorts of requirements (emissions, fuel efficiency, not using certain materials) it is probably a bit hard to "make 'em like they used to". And who knows, the government might be paying off Nissan to make lower quality products? The government does it with corn farmers. Maybe this type of thing happened in the early 80s when the VGs were coming out? the Z24, or Z series, was amazing. Did people instantly love the VG? Probably not, but look at us now.

Yeah. I'm pretty sure it came loose at the latch. Well, somewhere along the way. I unscrewed the bracket that the hood release was on and the cable had some slack. I pulled it out about 6 inches..so something definitely came unhook. Ugh. I guess I just need to invent some tool to go through the grille and up and pull down.

So my Hood release doesn't work anymore. For the past few days I've had to pull of two or three times for it to work. Now it doesn't work at all. I'm pretty sure it just popped out of a fitting or came loose somehow. I don't think it rusted. At least I hope not. So how do I pop my Hood without this? I'm clueless. I took off my drivers side blinker thing to try to reach up there, bit that was useless.

AHHHH!!! I know exactly what you mean. When I was doing my ATF changes, the fluid level was kicking my ass. I couldnt get a good reading on it. The ATF would be thin above the HOT line, but it would be thicker on the dipstick at the COLD line. I was so damn confused. When I did my fluid change, I know for a fact that 4 quarts came out. I put the old fluid in old ATF bottles. But then the dipstick said that 3.5 quarts was too full. like wtf?? And it said it was too full with those 3.5 quarts for a week. Then all of the sudden it drops down to the ADD line. I didn't think using a dipstick would be that hard

Wow. You seem to like the K&N site a lot. As far as the filter sock and the blowdryer or drycharger or whatever, you have to understand how air filters are marketed. Generally, the more air flow they let in, the less it is filtered. Putting one of those socks on pretty much takes away the greater air flow, without the reward of better filtering. Just because it is resistance doesn't mean it is a filter. Everyone above is pretty much correct. A snorkel is about the best cold air intake. By the way, cold air intakes dont cool air, they just get it from a cooler spot. But what does cool air is a turbo. I don't think you need all of those fancy gadgets just to get cooler air. I think you have it covered. I love it when people put some shiny tubing and a big air filter RIGHT where their stock airbox used to be and then call that a cold air intake. By the way, what do you have a turbo and a snorkel in?

tension rod? I'm not sure what one of those is. I tried googling it and I got mixed results. It seems that every part of my front suspension would be adequately called a tension rod I think it might be that thing that runs to the front part of the steering knuckle? It looks kind of like a socket wrench and goes down into the..whatever that's called. I always that was a tie rod? Google pictures and throwing the term "sleeve" around definitely makes me think tie rod. Am I wrong? Thanks everybody! I got my grille in eventually LOL. Boy, that took a few times. I think it's even more off-center than before I started. I'll definitely be getting some bushings sooner rather than later. Mine are horrible. Imagine if you had a donut. Then you took your palm and smashed it down on one side. That side would flatten, and it would split the donut. That's how some of my bushings are. Looks like this might run me a good bit of money.

Rust :'(

ha yeah. Sometimes I'm long winded. Sorry about that. Those 4.3s are really good. I love my dad's 2000 Sonoma. It can haul. American cars are confusing to me sometimes. Sometimes they last forever. For example, a person I know, he owns a Shell gas station. this guy has a 2000 Chevy S10, with the 4.3l. He has 624k miles on the ORIGINAL engine. Just about everything else has been replaced, but I think that is a pretty strong statement. I don't want to make this an essay again, but if you take care of anything, it will last forever. Toyotas are definitely the first thing people think of when you say the word "reliability" or "durable". Sure, they're pretty good. Nissan kinda flies under the radar though. I'm not sure why. My brother has a 1996 Tacoma with 275k miles and counting. Original clutch. My 1994 Nissan Hardbody with 130k miles will double whatever his Taco has when it dies.

Don't worry about a measly 240k. Ever since I got into Nissans, I've been really interested in how long they really last. It's actually ridiculous how long they can go. It's not uncommon of them to last up to and above 500k miles. Like Trogdor said, just do the maintenance. Change the oil and timing belt. That's all you REALLY have to do. You might want to go a little further, if you're that type of person. Changing spark plugs and wires would help, along with the air filter and other general stuff like that. Doing seals every now and again wouldn't hurt. These things really do last forever. Oil, oil, oil. That's all there is to it. For some reason, people really underestimate oil. "Oh, I can change the oil tomorrow. It won't matter. Oh I'll do it next week. Oh, I'm finally doing it. Let me use this cheapo-crap oil." <--That's how you break your stuff. Oh yeah, coolant too. That's pretty important. It's a 50/50 split. Coolant and oil are equally important. It's easy to let coolant slip under the radar because it's usually checked much less often. If you need more convincing, let me tell you some stories. I know it's not the VG30i, but my dad had a 1983 Nissan 720 with the z24. That truck had 260k when the odometer broke. He estimates he put another 40k miles on it before it was totaled in 1999. 300k miles and not a single problem to complain of. These kinds of stories span across all of Nissan's vehicles and engines. If you go on 4x4parts.com and look in the forums, there is a thread asking how many miles people have put on their trucks. The numbers never stop. 100k, 200k, 300k, 400k, 500k, 600k easy. Let me put it like this...everything else will be gone long before the engine.

I noticed you specifically used the word "engine". So, what if you turn your engine off, but the key is still on "acc"? Does it still reset? I think that test is a half-joke since it wouldn't really prove much. As the Town said above, just get your battery checked. Oh, and your alternator.

that IS an amazing price. You are completely right. $3500 wouldn't even buy an 87 in good condition. Maybe a rusty one with high mileage. Buying an 01? Eeek. Usually modifications/fabrication (done correctly) really shoots the price up. Good find I would love to do the body swap with a hardbody and modern frontier! Maybe in 5-10 years when I have some money laying around and a nice work space. That's the key. Tools and space. I'll wait for 2005-2012 Frontiers to come down to maybe..6-9 grand.