1994SEV6

That color is AMAZING!!! How much did that paint job cost? And my color is "AH3" or so it says on the door jamb. It's the burgundy color.

I guess someone would go to the vg30et page of wikipedia and randomly type "7.8", "8.3" and "1988" for no reason whatsoever. I GUESS someone would make that up for their own self enjoyment. Anyways...head gasket repair? Don't you just take the heads off, take off the old gasket, clean it up, and put a new gasket on?

I know. Nothing is perfect. I think people judge car manufacturers by the less number of problems their cars have. People usually view Toyota at the top of that list I would say. Oh yeah, I know about that frame rust thing. Yeah, 1.5x the blue book value ain't horrible though. I'm sure they have their problems, such as headgasket failures, just like Nissan has some, but this one was pretty big. I mean, motors were having these rod knock-like sound within their first 5000 miles. And Toyota was just like "what are you talking about? We can't hear that jackhammer of an engine"

way way way...wayyyy over priced, but cool I guess. The 2.4GHz controller. Lol, 2.4. Good job guys.

Keep in mind that this isn't new. I read my post and realized I didn't really say when this problem was occurring. Most of the people with complaints had 2001-2005ish Tacomas. Some people as far back as 1995 were also complaining though. So this topic isn't anything new, and you may have heard of it. I just saw it on the internet and never heard of it. I thought it was very interesting. I was on Yahoo answers last night. I saw this guy had a question about his Toyota Tacoma with the 2.7l tapping. It had around 140k miles on it. He provided a pretty crappy description (like most of them do), and it sounded like he had a pretty typical lifter tap or something of that nature. Usually, some engines have trademark, common problems. The vg30e has exhaust manifold stud problems, for example. So I google "Toyota 2.7l tapping" and BAM, I get buried in results. So, apparently, Toyota ain't so perfect. I knew they had a few problems here and there, like everybody does, but for the most part I thought they were prim and proper. They were on top for a reason, you know? No way! So I ended up on a few Toyota forums. Floods of 50+ people, one after another, all confirming this problem. Now, they had a different problem that produced the same symptoms. I just stumbled upon this problem, but the Yahoo answers guy might have this problem. So the scariest part is, All these people (in the thousands) had this god awful tapping/knocking. As you know, some forum buffs know what they are talking about. Some of these people were certified mechanics themselves, and they were swearing up and down that this noise was something sinister like a main bearing knock (oh boy). Here's where it gets scary, about 90% of the people had this problem develop within 5k miles of the truck being driven off the lot. Brand new. I thought these people were crazy. No way that a Toyota truck would have a serious problem such as a rod knock within 2000 miles of being brand new. But then, it was repeated. "2000 miles brand new". "7500 miles." "5000 miles". "the day I drove it off the lot with 8 miles it had the knock." So at this point, I'm laughing my ass of, I'm concerned, and I'm very smug. It's just funny that the all-perfect "super reliable" Toyota is having probably the most serious problem ever. I'm pretty concerned. My brother has a Toyota with the 2.7l. But then I remembered he has 285k miles on it and it runs perfect. But I was also concerned for these people on the forums. I was smug because of why these people bought Toyotas in the first place. So then posts start flooding in about people taking this problem to the dealers. There is where it gets really good. You know what the dealers said? "What knocking? We don't hear anything." And from what I understand, it's like the exhaust manifold stud knocking. It drives you crazy and you can hear it from a mile away. So if you can finally get your dealer to finally acknowledge the problem, then they offer to replace your brand new (less than 10000miles!!!) engine with a refurbished shortblock. All of this without even admitting that there is a problem. Sounds like Toyota got one over on them pretty good. I wonder whatever happened to these people. I guess that's what happens when you try to take the "safe and sure" route. Shoulda got that Nissan. I thought this would just be funny to share. It really goes to show how stuff changes.

Am I the only one that's even a little bit concerned about the beer in this post? This is just so blunt that I'm kinda speechless. But on a more positive note... is the COOLEST thing ever!!!! You turned your AC vent into a cupholder? That's epic. This picture almost made me @!*% brix. You're damn right it does. If you got a cup, and $2, then you're a happy man with a cupholder. I've been wondering this for a little while now. Some of Tungsten's posts are the most unbiased things ever, and he still gets -3 points consistently. The hilarity of this added to the hilarity of the duct tape cupholder actual made me soil myself (not really). But it was hilarious. The whole house shook with my laughter. hahaha.

DOZE prices.

hmm. I had this thought that they were 8:1. You're right though, several sites say so. I wonder why Wikipedia says the VG30ET had a 7.8:1, and was increased to 8.3:1 in 1988.

Is it parked because it's out of gas? I bet that's the reason.

How does it ride? It looks kinda cramped. From the small pictures, it looks like a big, beefy SUV type thing that was smushed to make it shorter.

Actually we're both wrong. I just read this article that says pure Ethylene glycol freezes at about 8degrees F above zero. The freezing point drops when you add water. I don't understand this at all..If you have a 60/40 mix of Ethylene glycol/water, then the freezing point is about -90F. But, if you have 50/50, then it's about -30F. If you have a 90/10 mix, then it's about -20F. It's pretty weird. Check this out http://www2.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF6/680.html I know it says 1984, but Ethylene glycol is still ethylene glycol, right? And water is still water.

Just in general, don't be mixin' colors. This ain't art class. I know some of them say that they can be mixed with all colors, but I've seen too many posts/threads saying "Don't mix [green] and [red] or damage WILL ensue". I think there is a post around here that says that exact thing. I know I'm being completely paranoid, but I don't want to ruin my engine over such a stupid thing. The owners manual says Ethylene glycol, my truck was bought with Ethylene glycol in it, and I'm going to use Ethylene glycol. It's the simple green stuff that is everywhere. Except for the red stuff in my friend's s10 (I think it's actually rusty water), I haven't see anything else. These trucks aren't complicated machines. For the most part, you can put whatever you want in them. lowest octane gas, cheap-o oil, BS oil filters, and they will still run. I think you might actually have to go out of your way to get something other than the green stuff. To actually answer your question, I would use unmixed coolant. Don't get that 50/50 stuff. I see you live in NJ, and winter is coming up. The 100% coolant stuff is about the same price as half coolant half water. I don't see any downside to getting more coolant. Besides, it's less likely to freeze or boil.

I was thinking that too. On top of that, this is a low compression engine.

I don't understand your logic completely. You went from A to C. You said "I blew a head gasket. I want to swap in a Chevy 4.3l." You skipped the middle ground there. Honestly, I would just fix the head gasket. BUT, if you really want to swap the Chevy 4.3l in, where's some info First of all, the 4.3l is a pretty good engine. It's not a horrible choice. The newer ones (96- to whenever they stopped making them) make decent power, around 190hp stock I think. It'll get you moving. Second of all, yes, you will need a few engine (obviously) transmission, completely new ecu and wiring, new driveshaft, probably new rear diff, new front diff ( if you want to keep 4x4) Essentially, you are making your Pathfinder into a Chevy Blazer, or GMC Jimmy, or Olds Bravada. Whatever you want to call it. I think you have to swap EVERYTHING over. engine, trans, ecu, driveshafts, cv axles...all that. I don't think any of it is interchangeable. I could be very wrong though. 4x4parts.com has an adapter for your transfer case to fit on chevy transmissions. It's $780. LOL. What a rip, but I thought you should know. Here's what you need to know. The 4.3l is almost 1.5 times bigger than the Vg30. The displacement is bigger, and it's not nearly as compact. Also, it's an odd-fire engine, so keep that in mind. Here's what you should do. Buy a Chevy Blazer. They are so cheap nowadays. Get one with under 100k miles. Around here, I can buy them by the dozen. I saw an ad on craigslist that actually said "three Chevy Blazers for $2500". They are just that cheap. Buying the entire vehicle would be your best option. It would be the cheapest, you wouldn't have to scout all the parts, and if you forget a part, no big deal, the vehicle is right there. But if you don't have the opportunity to do that, then go to a junk yard. Except for Dodges, the GM compact SUVs are probably the most common vehicle in junkyards. $250 for the engine. Another $150 for accessories. $150 for the trans..$100 for the t-case, $75 for driveshaft(s), $100 for ecu, another $300 for anything else I guess. Oh yeah. You DEFINITELY need new radiator and exhaust. It's a completely new engine. Nothing will fit.

Just for future reference/info, why did you take that part off? I've seen this post a few times and re-read your original post, but I still don't understand why you went and ripped that piece off? Was it rusted to something? Was it in the way?

Well, first of all, all of those modifications will lower your gas mileage. I don't know what an extractor is though...so I can't comment on that. Do you mean extracting the broken manifold stud bolts? The body lift will give you less MPG, make it handle worse, and lower your payload. This is all while putting more stress on all of your other components. The suspension lift will give you less MPG, make it handle worse, and lower your payload. This is all while....more stress. The Snorkel will...won't do a whole lot. It is really useless unless you go in deep water like all the time. If anything, it would make the engine have to work harder to suck in air. It's kind of like a vacuum. If you have a 3ft hose on your vacuum cleaner, then everything is ok. If you have a 100ft hose, then your vacuum cleaner will struggle to move all that air. A webber carb? I don't really know much about carbs (on cars at least), but I do know that there are carbs that let in more air, and there are carbs that don't. If you have a high flow carb, then you will get more power, but you will burn more gas while doing it. Lastly, those mud tires will kill your MPG. Mud tires are horrible for the highway. They are expensive, so you will be wasting them on everyday driving. They will make you handle horribly on the street. They will be loud. They are big and blocky so you will have low gas mileage. AND if you're using them for what they are intended for (mudding), then your MPG will be Gallons per Mile. This is all on top of an overweight, underpowered SUV. They are great, I love them, but the gas mileage is terrible. I'm sure you know, stock MPG is like 18 if you're good?

I thought these transmissions didn't have an overdrive year in the manuals? Does the red mean I'm going too fast?

The dust cover in your first picture is called a CV boot. It is pretty important if you want to use your 4wd, otherwise don't worry about it. It keeps the grease in while keeping road crap out. Oh boy, your bushings look almost as bad as mine. Just buy some from Energy Suspensions. The bushings to the right of the CV boot are your sway bar bushings. You're are pretty completely destroyed. I would recommend replacing those. Hmm, looks like you have most of the stuff needed. You are on the right track, but just don't call them 'rubbers' anymore, please. Thanks.

I thought they didn't introduce the 2wd Pathfinders until the early-mid 90s? That's a great looking Pathfinder for 500k miles. WOW

There are a few things that your problem could be. You might want to check your mass air flow sensor as someone recommended. It could be broken or very dirty. It could even be incorrectly connected. There is a thread around here for how to do that. I would check all the vacuum hoses. They tend to crack after time and make your engine do crazy things. An exhaust leak at the manifolds wouldn't really affect performance that much. You should still get those leaks fixed. It's not that bad. Timing also does very weird things to these engines. I would check that the distributor is correctly installed.

There is a whole thread about this. You are "supposed" to be able to do it, but I would just recommend against it. I can't seem to figure it out. In your situation, what Adamzan said was right. Your front and rear wheels were spinning at different speeds so some components were not properly in tune. If you were going 25mph down the road, then I guess it would work, but I'm not sure why you would want to. My visor card says that I shouldn't shift into 4hi at a speed higher than (I think it says 45mph)? I have no idea why I would be going 45mph and want to slam it into 4hi. If you have auto hubs, then on the fly might work, but it's just silly with manual locking hubs. You would have to stop the truck and get out to put the hubs in 4wd. Some people say that you should put the hubs in 4wd prior to putting the t-case in 4wd, but isn't that useless? Whenever I put my stuff into 4wd, there would always be grinding or clanking noises. Except if I was completely stopped for more than a second then slowly did it. Even if I was going like 2mph, there would be god-awful sounds from the transfer case. With awful sounds like that, you know somethin' good ain't happenin'. I would just take the extra 5 seconds and do it at a standstill.

oh nvm then. Mine isn't for sale. I was going to sell it for the cost of shipping, but I wouldn't want you to do all that work just to find out that it's broken and you have to tear it out again.

As always, excellent link. Very good info and demonstration

It's not the salt. It's the salt and water. When you mix salt and water you get an acid, which eats the metal from UNDER the paint.