1994SEV6

Hey take a look at this real quick. This guy is asking a very similar question. He went on another Nissan site and copied and good info about the differentials and stuff. I think I've seen it before. It looks very familiar and it's good stuff http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31733&view=findpost&p=598454

What is up with the bench seats???? I just don't get it. You want to get RID of the bench seats. ewwwww So are you asking what could you salvage and use as an upgrade or are you trying to sell excess parts or what? As far as which parts are swap-able, I would stay away from most of the mechanics. As you know, the engine is different. The transmission is also different. I would assume the t-case is different, but maybe not. So I guess that leaves you with the interior, the manual locking hubs (tryna sell those? LOL), the differentials judging from the info you posted, and a few other things

Did anything ever happen with this?

If you want anyone to read that, I suggest you retype it in regular lowercase letters. But then again, if you didn't want help, then this is the way to go BUT SERIOUSLY THOUGH. I READ ALL OF IT, AND HERE'S WHAT I THINK. I can't do this. Seriously. It hurts my eyes. I was trying to give you a taste of your own medicine but it hurts too much to type like that. Anyway, I think you were trying to say that there is too much oil pressure. You were trying to hint that every time you plug a hole, a new leak pops up. You said you fixed a leak, and then it leaked somewhere else. To actually help you, I think you need to understand a few things. These are overhead engines, like you said. They do have rocker arms and lifters. Lifters do need oil. I don't know what you mean by "inflated", but clattering on start-up is usually lifters. This is usually to a clog in the oil system, low quality/bad oil, or a bad oil filter. Now you said "loosing oil pressure overnight", are you sure you know how an engine works? When the engine runs, it powers an oil pump which pumps oil where it needs to go and creates pressure. That oil pump doesn't work when the engine is off. The engine looses oil pressure the instant the engine is off, it doesn't take over night. Yes, you need oil on lifters during start up. That's why you buy a high quality oil that stays lathered on the lifters. High quality oils STAY coated on the surface to prevent wear on start up.

I didn't say to remove the transmission. You aren't going to get 3 inches of clearance. If there was 3 inches to get than I would have had my auto trans out and my manual trans in weeks ago. I think you have to slip the trans back as much as you can (an inch or so is all you'll get), and then pull the engine up to create and angle on the trans.

Hey there, I saw this thread and I had to comment. "Oh boy" pretty much sums it up. I read the other replies and I laughed at the ambition. The reason is, I'm currently *trying* to do a auto to 5speed swap in my Hardbody. It's kicking my ass like Chuck Norris I love how you say "the EASIEST way ..is..unbolt transmission, and drop the front diff" You have a CHORE in front of you. Oh boy. While trying to get my transmission out, I ended up pretty much taking the whole truck apart. I thought I could cheat and not have to take the torsion bars out, boy was I wrong. To try to cheat, I took out the exhaust, I tried to jack it up and slide it back and slide it down..I tried a lot of stuff that I can't even remember due to the stress it put on me. It's insane. So then, I thought I needed to drop the front diff. I did all this to avoid taking the torsion bars out. Let me tell you, the front diff has three 17mm nuts and bolts that hold it to the crossmember. They are soft as butter. You ARE going to strip those bolts. My dad stripped the first one, so he took a cold chisel to it. He finally got it off. (this is all in the very, very, VERY tight confines of a Japanese compact truck engine bay), and we finally got the 2nd one off. After about 2 hours of trying to apply several different types of leverage to the third one, we gave up after stripping it. There's no way to chisel that one off. The other option is to remove both of the CV axles and then remove the diff from the front. To get the trans to budge, even an inch you have to remove both of the driveshafts. You need 2 14mm wrenches for the t-case drive shaft. I forget about the main drive shaft. That one isn't hard. You need to remove your shifter assembly. You need to remove the plate that surrounds the shifter and the t-case shifter. You need to remove the 14 bolts on the transmission. I think it's either 14 or 11. I heard it was 14, but I only counted 11. I did remove the bolts over 3 days though. Remove all the bolts. There are 2 for the starter. Most of them are 14mm, but the bolts for the starter are 15mm. The bolts on the starter have nuts on the back, so remember that. You are going to need a lot of extensions for the top 2 bolts. You need to have about 2 feet of extensions and then get them out through the floor of the cab. OK. So you did all that. NOW you can slide it back. But only about 3 inches before the transfer case slams into the rear cross member with the torsion bars. Hmm..not enough room. The transmission/torque converter is still connected to the flywheel. Now you need to try to rotate the flywheel to access the bolts that connect it to the torque converter. You have to get those bolts through the hole where the starter was, but you can't. You can't possibly get them at that angle, no matter how hard you try. Now you need to undo the torsion bars and remove the rear crossmember. AHHH, now you can slide the transmission back as much as you want. Then you can pull the engine. Well, let me correct myself, you can continue removing other things to be able to remove the engine. Anyway, I just want you to know all those BEFORE you start it. If I had known it took this much work for my swap, I would have sold the truck. No question about it. I LOVE LOVE LOVE my truck, but it is not worth it. This project has dragged on for two weeks, and the old transmission is still in the truck. It's costing my money, time, it's almost been towed twice. I've lost so many bolts and broken so many parts. I don't even remember where some of the things go any more. If the valves are smashed, just put an ad on craigslist. Pretty much say.."1992 Pathfinder, 180k miles, needs top rebuilt, trans recently overhauled, vg30de engine included" and ask for 2k

boy, you said it..

sounds like you're describing heat shield rattle from the exhaust pipes directly after the manifolds. they will drive you crazy

AHHHH!!! THERE IT IS!!!! Thanks for finding it. That's been annoying/scaring me for months. So your other thread about the fuel pump/o-ring/gasket wasn't the problem? Not to be lazy or anything, but it sounds like that JB Stik is the route to go. I think it's like $5 a tube at AAP. They have some pretty spiffy claims on the package. Most junkyards do something with the gas tanks. Or they are "supposed" to. I've seen gas tanks with holes in them, cut wide open, and some just bent and dented out of shape in the junkyards. So the gas drips out of that hole and collects in the rock guard? I guess in the summer it evaporates pretty fast, but in the winter wouldn't it drip down to the ground?

wow. THAT is cool.

The nearest one to me is 4 hours The next closest one is 7 hours...

I typed all kinds of things into the search bar and I couldn't find a write up on auto to manual hub conversion. I found a lot of questions about how/how much manual hubs improve MPGs though. I decided to just go for it. I took all the parts of the auto hub off until I got to the circular plate that has the two tiny screws.I found a yummy present from the previous owner. Some nice rounded screws. Then I put the manual hub on. Then I put the snap ring in. (Boy did those snap rings kick my @SS.) so I got the passenger hub all good. I spun the front diff and the passenger wheel turned. WOOT! but of course the driver side wheel didn't turn because it still had the auto hub. I repeated the process for the drivers side. It didn't work ;( when on FREE, the CV shaft will turn. when in LOCK, the CV shaft will not turn. If I turn the wheel while it's in lock, it will spin the CV shaft. What's going on here?

Should be 6mm. Mine are. Also, use a quality allen wrench, you are going to have to use a cheater bar to get them off. I had to use a 18" tube to get my bolts off. I put a good bit of torque on those bolts before they gave way. For the removal, an allen wrench is all you need. The hubs might be stuck on from friction. Bang them with you hand a little bit or give them a slight tab with a hammer.

^^^ Pretty much the best thing to do in your situation I think. Like Nunya said, something could be installed incorrectly

Do I not have a throttle body?

I mean, yeah. If you don't burn the fuel, then you just dump it out the exhaust. That sounds like emissions to me. What's up with the double sarcasm? So your L20 doesn't have a problem with spark, but then your rolleyes emoticon suggests that it doesn't run well. I'm confused. Maybe it's because I'm young.

TBI? throttle body injection?

Does the VG30E have that hot air pickup? My exhaust pipes don't have any sort of tubes or anything like that

Well, usually the sensor is false. But, if the sensor is good, then the sensor that senses the sensor is bad. That means that the wires from the speed sensor to the ECM, or wherever else those wires go, are faulty, OR your ECM is bad. If the sensor that senses the sensor is also fine, then it's the operator. Either you misinterpreted the code as something other than the speed sensor, or you tested the sensor wrong.

yeah...why do you want to mess with it? It has twin spark plugs for a reason...and, if you ask me, it works damn well. They have twin sparks because of ignition. The engines back in those days had some problems burning all the fuel because of ignition. To fix that, they put in dual spark plugs to double the spark. I don't see any advantage to switching to a single spark plug head.

you guys are right. I should do some searching and read the FSM. I'll do that right now

If you have the Z24 then I would check the carb. Hmm..sounds weird. All the stuff I was thinking about while reading your post you said you did.. I would have strongly recommended the vacuum lines. check them again. they make your engine do crazy things. I'm reading through the things you did. you say "tin foil tube going from exhaust manifold to the air cleaner housing in connected"? That sounds like a EGR thing, but I have no idea what you're talking about. You MUST have a Z24.

wait..wha...? What is it that you're trying to do? You said "I disconnected the speed sensor. I tested it. It worked. what to do?" I don't understand the question

That's all any of them ever do...be loud and obnoxious.

Sewebster covered a few of them. Pretty much..Less payload. Less MPGs. Parts will fail faster. Wheel bearings will go bad faster.