1994SEV6

Ahhhh ok. So, my speed odometer would say that I was going slightly faster than I really was? I might borrow a GPS unit from someone. That speedview app doesn't work on my phone. Damn Samsung captivate. So...small tires make for faster acceleration, but lower top speed. This kinda goes against everything I thought, but would bigger tires give me better gas mileage on the highway? Up to a point. I know like 40" tires would be very counter productive.

Oh I know that one plant couldn't make EVERYTHING, but I was just wondering about HBs and Pathfinders since they are so closely related. 87 HB built in Japan? Boy, that must have been hit hard by the chicken tax.

oh yeah yeah. right. I forgot the chicken tax was only for the trucks. It didn't apply to anything else. Yeah, that chicken tax is ridiculous. It taxes import light trucks at 25%!!! That means a 20k truck is now 25k because of the tax. That's a lotta bank. To me, except for minor differences, aren't Pathfinders and HBs identical? All they did was add the extra roof? Just weld on some metal and put some glass in there. I would think it would just be easier to consolidate things.. But I guess that's why I don't own any car companies. Nissan sure had their stuff figured out in the 90s.

Hmm...well, I haven't put the 5speed in yet (damn you, procrastination). Is this auto from the Xterra an EXACT bolt-up? Is it externally identical? Does it wiring up the same? or are there more sensors and gizmos? Yeah that's for sure. I have a half filipino girlfriend. GOD is she horrible at driving. "Honey, the gas pedal means go, and the brake pedal means stop" She still can't get that crap straight. This is the original reason I wanted to by a 5speed truck LOL but my mom...she think's she's some bad @$$ or something. She got some beater f150 when she was younger and it had a stick. So ever since then she thinks she's some master with a stick when she can't shift for her life. She can get it started, but after that she would just murder my clutch.

Are you saying that the truck was built in Japan and then shipped over here by Nissan? That seems silly. They intentionally built plants in the US to not do that.

are the Xterra ones really that good? Aren't they just the exact same transmission but without the overheating/self-destruction issue? Personally, I think automatics were crap until like..last year.

no offence..but why are people so ignorant/lazy? Just change yer damn timing belts. It's easier than replacing valves.

hmm..is it me or does that look like it has a different sticker under it? I didn't even notice before

When I was buying a transmission for my HB, the guy gave me some Pathfinder doors he had laying around. He got them as a good deal, but they ended up being junk laying around. They are in perfect condition, and I was taking pictures to sell them. I looked quickly at the door jamb sticker just to read to see if it was the same as mine. I noticed a few weird things. The top half is pretty much identical to mine. It is arranged differently, but it is the same info. Tire size, psi, vehicle weight, vehicle towing..etc But then the VIN starts with JN8. This indicates a Nissan made in Japan..right? Well..if it was made in Japan, how the heck did it get over here? Pathfinders are awesome...but I wouldn't pay shipping and import fees to get one over here from Japan. Especially when there is no shortage of them here. I'll post pics of my door jamb sticker, and the Pathy's. Also note the bottom 1/4. Mine has the engine type, trans type, axle type, etc. The pathfinder doesn't have this. It is cut short right after the VIN

I bought my HB about 6 months ago now. It has 30x9.50r15lt tires all the way around. I had looked at the sticker in the door jamb 2 or 3 times for general information, but I never really payed attention to the tire size. It says the stock tires, the ones the truck was originally equipped with by Nissan, were 31x10.50r15. I never noticed this. If the stock is 31, and I'm running 30s, how far off is my odometer? Are there other consequences to this?

vg33er for ONLY $500!?!?!?!? wtf? You could have gotten a grand easy. Around here at least. Jerks around here want $600+ for a vg30e with 150k miles. Even pull-it-yourself junkyards want a minimum "$350 for any internal combustion engine". the vg33e with the supercharger would fetch some bank. Especially with low miles. I'm not even a greedy person, but I wouldn't let the engine go for less than $900 and the trans would be another $600 in my pocket. You like the automatics better for wheeling? I was reading a "good" (the only real one out there) thread on Nissan4wheelers and after putting the 5speed in, he said it was superior. 4lo in 1st gear just raped.

This is actually true. A friend of mine explained this to me. It's like a clutch on a Subaru STI. They put stupid high performance racing clutches in them, but people have no idea how to properly use them. The small Subaru engine has high RPMs and if you slowly let the clutch out, it just rapes the clutch pad. Also, the gears are more cone shaped so they bounce around a lot more. When they bounce and get shoved around, they get damaged much faster. The solution is to SLAM the clutch out. This seems bad for it, but with the racing clutch pad, and the design of the transmission, it's the only way to do it. But the down side is hard shifting and it will ruin your tires quite fast. This same principal goes for all other transmissions, but the difference is that they can handle it to a degree. Yeah. I agree. It isn't very smart to do a rebuild unless you have a lot of time or money on your hands. If you are REALLY strapped for cash, but have plenty of time, then go for the rebuild. For me, it wasn't worth it. Not even a longshot in any sense. My dad was really urging me to do a rebuild, but I don't have that kind of cash laying around. Besides that, I have no desire for an automatic, and it would probably brake again in 50k miles. $1,000 seems a little steep. Especially if someone was parting it out or wrecked it. Actually, there was a guy local to me selling one of these for $250!! Auto trans with transfer case 21k miles. AHHHHHHH!!!! IF I had known they would fit!! this is it http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/pts/2679233188.html he says it's out of a QX4, which is a Pathfinder, but you said Xterra. Does it specifically have to be Xterra?

Honestly...never trust the people at auto parts stores. ESPECIALLY the employees at Advance Auto or Auto Zone. The people at NAPA are ok sometimes. The only people you can trust to know what they are talking about are the older guys who OWN the stores themselves. Never trust Joe or whoever at Advance Auto. I've been there, seen behind the scenes, done that.

changing spark plugs...? Uh..i didn't think it was that hard. You guys are acting like it's rocket science or something? I haven't studied it in detail or anything, but it seems like it would only take 10 mins? Unplug the boots, unscrew the plugs, replace plugs, and refit the boots. Not a huge deal. or am I totally wrong about this?

yeah...it was completely ridiculous. She didn't take responsibility at all. She pulled that @!*% where she blames what she did on a pre-existing problem. "Oh, the transmission broke because it was shifting hard last week" Going to put like 3 killswitches in when I swap the 5speed in

that's not true at all...the chicken tax was implemented in 1963 by Lyndon B. Johnson. Even if it wasn't in 1963, a Chevy Wagon would have nothing to do with the chicken tax whatsoever. The chicken tax was a tax on IMPORT light TRUCKS. Not domestic wagons. Hey, you may be cool, but don't go around making @!*% up. Thanks.

LOL. a lot. Transfer cases are pretty expensive. On top of that, they aren't easy to change. This isn't just "oh, i broke my transfer case. let me go buy another one from Advance Auto and change it out in 5mins". This isn't an oil change or anything. Unless you use it like everyday..all the time, I would just leave it alone. It kinda sounds like you use it a lot though. Changing a transfer case involves taking your transmission out, unbolting the transfer case from the transmission, and installing a new one. Swapping out the transmission and transfer case as one whole unit is a lot easier. I would go to a junkyard and find a wrecked pathfinder from your generation and buy it.

Right. I'm aware of the massive damage it caused. but my question is what happened? Did my gears weld themselves together, or did a clutch pack disintegrate, or what happened?

So...I posted a pretty long version of this on another forum, but I want to keep this short today. A little history: 130k on the truck. Transmission swapped into truck at 120k miles. transmission had 48k miles on it. Developed shift shock from 1st to 2nd about 2 weeks before this whole incident. Ok, so I had shift shock. I changed the fluid, but of course, that didn't do anything. My mom drove it, and the drain plug fell out. She parked it in a parking lot. It only takes about 30 seconds for all the fluid to come out of the transmission. ~4quarts/litres/a gallon She saw this massive fluid loss and drove it home anyway. The store was about 1/4 mile away from home. There was still about 5 litres in the torque converter, lines, and cooler. some of this liquid came out while driving it, but the remainder came out while parked at home. I went up and found the plug in rush hour traffic. No store had it, and it couldn't be bought online. I bought a gallon of ATF. It took the whole gallon to fill up the transmission. I knew it had to be pumped to the TC and cooler. I started it up in park for about 15 seconds. After being pumped through, the transmission was bone dry again. I put another 2 quarts in. It didn't even register on the dipstick. I put another 2 quarts in and ran it for about a minute. This put the total to 8 quarts. Advance Auto says my capacity is 8.4litres of fluid. I think that's about right. I thought it was safe at this point to try to drive it. I put it in reverse and it worked fine. I thought I was in the clear. I put it in drive and it raped me. I was idling inches at a time. Soooooo slow. When I tried to accelerate, it was VERY sluggish. When I got up to about 20mph, it was fine. It felt normal. I eventually concluded that when I put it in 'D', it is really in 3rd gear. When I manually put it in 1, I am in second gear. When I put it in 2, I am in 3rd gear. When I put it in D, it is in 3rd gear only. I have no overdrive. I have flipped the O/D switch on and off tons of times. I tried the fail-safe mode reset method or whatever. It describes the process in the service manual. It also mentions a "power mode indicator light" multiple times. I have no idea what this light is. IDK what "power mode" is. I have a little switch that says E-At on it, but it doesn't have a working light. I pulled my passenger seat out to check the ECU. I think I may have reset the codes while trying to figure out how to use it, but it said 55 The transmission works great in 2nd and 3rd gear. No slipping, grinding, noises...etc. I can drive it just fine, but I know that I will eventually burn up 2nd gear. That and I can't go above 45mph without blowing up the engine pretty much Thanks for any help in advance. I don't really give a @!*% about this auto anymore. I bought a 5speed for a swap, but I still want to know what might be going on inside it.

Hey guys. I'm in Central Maryland near Washington D.C. There ain't crap out here. I think Maryland has a total of 40miles of offroading trails in the entire state. It's like 5miles here, 5 miles there.. and It's nothing good. I think you have to go to PA for anything decent.

yeah..that thread is more like "i did it, and here are some pictures" It's really good compared to anything else I've found, but it doesn't cover everything, which is why I'm here. On top of that, I applied for a membership a week ago so I could PM that guy. They do some stupid "a moderator has to approve you" thing, and I still haven't been approved.

oh!! ok. whew...i thought if my heads were warped just get out now. So, I've tried to apply pressure to the manifolds while it was cold. They don't really seem to budge. I also put my hand down there and felt some air, but it was cold air, so I think I was jut feeling air from the radiator fan. I didn't feel any warm air. Where do they leak from? the top, or the bottom, or some unreachable place or what?

oh man. my heads? from an exhaust leak? The same heads that warp when you blow a head gasket? I thought those were for intake, not exhaust. How long would it take them to get to the "warped heads" phase?

WOW!! the broken stud issue is really that widespread? That's ridiculous. That's what I have for sure then. The previous owner said it had an exhaust leak and then the tapping started about 3 days after I got it. How long does it take to just fix the studs, and how long does it take to replace the headers? Also, how much do said stronger studs cost? Can I only get them at the Nissan dealer? edit: LOL. nvm. Thorley headers can hit a grand easy. no thanks

I do hear the noise all the time. It is much louder when cold though. If it's plenty warm, I can still hear it if I listen for it when stopped. I can hear it tapping up until about 2.5-3k RPM when it goes too fast and just becomes one noise instead of individual taps. My muffler rusted out and fell off about two weeks ago. It broke at the flange connecting the intermediate pipe and the muffler. When I didn't have a muffler on, the tapping got MUCH louder. This last bit of info seems to convince me that it's an exhaust stud thing. If it was a lifter, then it wouldn't get louder from the muffler being off, right?