1994SEV6

Yeah, this definitely seems like an oxygen issue. Vacuum lines will make your engine do the craziest things if they are faulty. It's so weird how those work. Pretty much as the people above said, it's going to be vacuum lines, the MAF sensor or possibly the O2 sensor. There is a post on here about cleaning the MAF sensor. You should go ahead and do that, even if you weren't having this problem. After that, just check hoses

Hey there guys, You may have seen a few of my threads about my automatic transmission getting broken pretty badly. My HB has 130k miles on it, and it's already been through 2 autos (counting this one). I know the 2nd one was my fault, but I'm tired of dealing with them. I wanted a 5 speed anyway. So, I searched for a good bit, and found a manual transmission for sale. The seller was an amazing person. He sold me the transmission, transfer case, and EVERYTHING for the swap for $350. He even pulled the trans for me. Then he gave me 2 doors for a green pathfinder in perfect condition, and a complete exhaust system minus the cat. It worked out pretty well for me. I just have to get rid of some stuff now LOL The plan was to do the project with my dad. Well, he is the master of procrastination. I'm surprised I was ever even conceived. Monday turned into wednesday, which turned into Saturday..etc.etc. Now I'm literally kicking him in the ass to get moving. This is going to happen today. I probably should have asked this stuff a little earlier (I am my father's son HA), but what all does it take? I've got all the sockets and ratchets and wrenches I could need (that 12mm is a tricky bastard though. You can never find that one when you need it) How do I go about getting the transfer case driveshaft out? I understand that I don't have to remove the torsion bars to get the transmission out. Well, how about getting the transmission in? I loosen the torsion bars a little bit, then put some 2x4s in there, then slip the crossmember out? That's what I've heard. As far as the interior things, I'm covered. The cover plate, for where the clutch pedal would go, had rusted bolts. So I'm going to have to deal with that. I also noticed that the clutch pedal has a button. And a plug. I know the wires are hidden somewhere, but where? I've reached up around there a little bit and haven't seen much. Someone just give me some tips, please. Thanks

for sure. I always remember this when I'm halfway done with taking stuff out. It always messed me up when putting stuff back together. "So, I think this screw goes here. Hmm...but it's too small. Look, it goes right through the hole. It doesn't even thread. Huh, that's weird. This is the only screw I have left...hmm, Maybe that one screw that seemed hard to put in was really the screw that went here. Nahhhh, that's not possible, I would have remembered. Well, maybe I'm wrong. Let's check. Now I took everything apart again, and I'm looking that screw dead in the face. Man, it's so hard to get back out since I forced it in. Oh never mind, I'm gettin' it. I'm gettin' it. Awww fskc, I stripped the screw hole :'( now the proper, smaller screw won't fit. ffffffffffffffff-"

Yeah, yeah. I know it's called a compressor. I was thinking about some other word to use to describe it, but I knew that was wrong. Condenser was close to compressor lol. My mileage isn't AWFUL. Like, I've seen people reporting like 9 and 10mpg. I'm thinking "...you should get that fixed..." Nah, mine is like 17, maybe 18 or 19 if I'm careful. There's a lot of other stuff I have to do. I'm swapping my automatic for a manual today. That should boost me 1, or 2 if I shift properly. I'm also swapping out my auto hubs for manual ones. Apparently that helps gas mileage? I'm also going to do my MAF since that seems like a miracle cure. I plan on getting a muffler on there..eventually. The broken exhaust manifold studs harm your mileage and performance right? The leak lets out exhaust, and the 02 sensor doesn't work properly? It's not like I have 10mpg and I'm looking for any and all improvements. I just thought it would help a little bit since it's sapping power. As far as me thinking the compressor would blow up, that happened to my friend. Again, the guy with the s10. I think he did something to it because he needed to recharge the r134a or do something else..so he took the belt off. Then his mom drove it and turned the A/C on at which point his compressor broke. But, that's probably just because it's an s10 and not a Nissan

Just because it drives straight doesn't mean it doesn't have an alignment problem. Camber which is the tiring leaning inwards, like you described, wouldn't really affect your truck driving straight. What would affect your truck not driving straight is toe in and and toe out. I agree with Adamzan. Jack it up and find out. If it has play at top and bottom, then I would say it's most likely the wheel bearings. These things get loose after 100k miles or so. You just have to repack them with grease. If it has play from side to side, then it might be the tie rod sleeve. That was my problem. That's the part that connects the tie rods. If you aren't incredibly inclined with this stuff, go take it for an alignment. They will put it up there and they will tell you what's wrong. You get those things fixed and then you go back and get the alignment. You should go to Sears or some place that has a warranty so you can get the alignment for free when you go back. Regular gas stations will charge you for the alignment, THEN tell you what's wrong, give you a huge quote for that, then they will charge you again for the alignment.

hmm. that's weird. This happened to me once, but I still had the radio and brake lights. Turns out it was just the ignition fuse. It's funny how that little fuse can make it so nothing works. In your case, it might be multiple fuses. Like the ignition fuse, the stereo fuse, and the instrument cluster fuse. I could be very wrong, but it takes about 30 seconds to check, so what's the harm? If you do have multiple fuses blown, then you should find out what caused it. A burst of power came through and broke all the fuses, which is what's supposed to happen to not break your stuff. Anyway, just start looking around

right. extra virgin is always better. that's what you want. I don't understand why you would use conventional though. Synthetic gave you problems? That's weird. I guess so, but that means you have to change your fluids like..all the time?

That's a lot of gas..wouldn't that be heavy?

I can take the ps belt off? My friend has a 97 s10. His power steering pump broke. I said, "why don't you just not have power steering?" He said the way his steering box was set up that he couldn't do that. I guess this isn't true for Nissans?

If you don't use synthetic lube, then I guess that means you use conventional differential oil?

From what I understand, the A/C condenser uses energy, even if it's off. My gas mileage is already horrible, so I need to preserve that energy. I never used it, even in the summer, and I'm definitely not going to use it over the winter. Besides that, I think my condenser is going to break soon because when my engine is idling it makes a kind of screeching noise in the back ground. It's kind of like white noise that you have to intentionally listen for over the exhaust manifold stud tapping. I think I have a sound clip, but that's another issue. Anyway, I was wondering if I could remove my A/C belt for extended periods of time with no consequences what so ever? I might also disable the A/C switch because I realize that if you turn the condenser on without the belt it would pretty much blow up. If removing the belt is possible, would it even help anything?

That's a good question..I was trying to figure that out.

Possibly a fuse. Can you turn on your radio? or you can't turn anything on that's not wired DIRECTLY to the battery?

I don't have any personal input since I just bought my HB about 4k miles ago, and the owner replaced it right before I got it. Buttt, a few weeks ago when I was on 4x4parts.com forums, someone made a thread about how many miles they had on their Nissans. Man, some of those trucks get up well above the 500k mark. It's actually amazing. And on top of that, there were quite a few guys who said things like "300k on the original vg30 and stock timing belt" and im like...WTFFFFF. THAT'S HOW YOU fskc @!*% UP

this is most likely a lens issue. this happens with every laser disc system. It isn't necessarily because "the stock HUs are crap". It is most likely dust or there may be a problem with some of the mechanisms. I fix Xboxs, PS2s, PS3s as a tiny side business, and I have fixed cd players, stereos, computer disc drives, etc over the years. A few things have to happen for proper function The disc has to spin. This is a major problem. The lens can be perfect. The disc can be perfect. The laser can be spot on. If the disc doesn't spin then there is something not getting a connection. The rubber belt that spins the ...spinner could not be in place. hair could have wrapped itself around the axle that spins. The lens has to be able to move. A spring or a belt drive could be out of place. When a disc drive starts up the lens ALWAYS starts in the middle and moves outward. If this doesn't happen then the disc won't read. I don't want to teach you a class or anything haha. If it was me, I would tear it apart and just observe if the necessary operating actions are taking place. If you aren't into that, then try to get an aux input for your ipod or something. Getting an aftermarket headunit is a good idea. A good one is like $50.

right...duh. How stupid of me. Well, now I know. That's why I'm here

Do all pathfinders and HBs have this panhard bar? I've been under my truck quite a few times and I don't think I remember any such thing.

Hmm.. that's pretty interesting. Anything to improve mpg would be great. Where does it all go? 15-19mpg with a 3.0 = no bueno. I want to switch because I found 2 BRAND NEW BFG 31s under my dad's porch the other day. Still had the price tags on them, never touched pavement. They are probably pretty old, but the rubber looks great. 2 of my tires are getting kinda low on tread so I was thinking I could trade my good 30s for good 31s to get a complete set. Not working out so well so far. by the way, I'm getting the vibe that people around here don't like legos? Not a strong vibe, pretty mild. What's up with that? Not trying to go against the grain, but I love them. I lost my 2 front center caps within a week of ownership :'( still looking for replacements

I know the basics of a manual, and I know how to drive them, but I'm no expert. I'm only 17 and the only thing I've driven with a stick is my brother's '96 Tacoma. This may sound stupid, but can't you just not press as hard on the gas pedal and go slower? I'm guessing the answer is that the engine will stall, but if you put it in first gear and let off the gas, doesn't it just idle because it is locked with the engine?

ok fine. I'll take the no offence out, since there's no excuse. You don't have the money for a timing belt kit? BS. That's $35. If you don't have the money, then don't drive it! Don't have the money for an oil change, then you shouldn't have a car. It's not even an excuse. You wouldn't drive with old oil knowing it's destroying your engine, would you? You wouldn't drive without coolant because you didn't have money, would you? You wouldn't drive with bald tires when it's dangerous as hell because you didn't have money, would you? I'm not usually a jerk like this, but there is absolutely no excuse. Not even in the subject of cars, but if you had cancer, you tryna wait until the last moment to go to the doctor? And then it's too late? No. just..no. Don't do that

bigger tire is less force? By force you mean torque? well...then why do off-roaders have huge tires when they want more torque?

nah....bad idea. don't ghetto rig stuff just to make something fit that "looks good". That's how you break stuff and make stuff unsafe and get in trouble. and no offence, but if you're into the whole "chrome wheels, fake hood scoop, spoiler on top of spoiler, chrome tipped exhaust" stuff, then go to infamousnissan.com they got you covered. They are experts on chrome and wheel spacers

I have a 1994 HB and all the interior switches and indicators are illuminated when I turn the switch. My dash lights are linked to the lights behind the heat controls, the shifter, and..I think that's it actually. But everything is illuminated and controlled by the dimmer switch

At 280k miles...I wouldn't be blaming anything. If the transmission goes, that's 280k miles for ya. Ford transmissions are junk after 100k! Nissans are tough for sure, but give it a break. As far as your actual problem, it sounds like you are describing "shift flare". This is when the transmission slips right BEFORE shifting and the RPMs jump up. This is a good quote I found. This pretty much describes it "Shift flare is when the RPM briefly increases on an upshift. RPMs should always decrease on an upshift." As far as the ABS light, I'm not sure what that is. With my experience, if the brake fluid is low, BOTH the "brake" light and the "abs" light come on. If it is just the ABS light, it might be a sensor problem. It coming on when the shifting problem occurs is weird, but I wouldn't worry about it. These trucks only had ABS on the rear, and the rear only does about 10% of the braking. Not really that important.

I think your tires would be fine. The gas is definitely bad. I was actually going through this with my dad. He has THREE 1979 Firebirds. I hate him for completely trashing them and letting them sit for 15 years. The one had a 6.6l engine with a complete rebuild 18 years ago. It had 50miles on the rebuild when it was parked. My dad drained out the 18 year old gas. It reeked like nobody's business. It wouldn't burn worth a damn. He didn't seem concerned about the oil, or the hoses, or the coolant, or the transmission fluid. It started right up after almost 20 years, with fresh gas of course. My dad being a cheapo and all, he drove it a few miles around town with everything from 20 years ago. 20-something year old tires, still holding air. Probably stock hoses from 1979. Brakes? They squeaked a little bit, but they worked. That flowmaster exhaust still sounded amazing. Hell, even the headlight fluid smelled fresh! To be honest, and realistic, I wouldn't worry about a thing. If a vehicle sat for 2 years? So what? I wouldn't even give the tires a second thought. I don't think you are giving anything enough credit. Yes, rubber rots, but not overnight like you are worried about. As far as the rotors, I might give those a glance out of safety. Just to see if they are pitted. Changing fluids and filters never hurts though. Edit: oh yeah. Forgot to mention. All 3 of my dad's cars were completely unsheltered. That's the worst part. Been getting hit by the elements for 20 years. No garage, no roof. Occasionally a torn up tarp was thrown over them, but that's it. If your truck was covered by at least a half-makeshift garage, you're good.