1994SEV6

Yeah. Sorry to say you trans might be on its way out. This shouldn't be happening at 117k though, but still, overfill to 5.1l.

Was this a factory option or was it purely aftermarket?

The bigger the pipe, the louder it will be. You don't necessarily want it to be loud. If it just lets too much flow through, then it won't perform properly and it will just be loud as hell all the time. And it wound even sound good. If you have a big fat pipe then you will have lower MPGs and less power.

No worries. NPORA is here to help you. What you said makes much more sense if you replace the term "transfer case" with "Transmission". No harm done. I understand much better. Yes, I believe there are 14 bolts all around for the transmission. I would say that they are all important. You should probably have all 14 I am also a fast learner. Would you believe that last month I didn't even know what anything meant? Anyway, I may have been a little harsh. I might not have given him enough credit. Especially if he successfully replaced solenoids in a transmission. If you need some extra parts, you're in lucky. I just removed my A/T and everything associated with it. I have the torque converter, the trans pan, all the bolts for the trans, I have the torque converter bolts, I have the flywheel, the flywheel bolts, I have the shifter. Sorry, I don't want to advertise, but just send me a PM. I promise I'll beat the dealer prices. Let's see if we can get you sorted out

Hey, I have the whole lever. I think It has the boots on it. I removed the lever/shifter to get the transmission out from under my truck. I threw the shifter in the back of the truck. I was forced to have the truck towed and left the transmission. The transmission was gone when I got back. So, that means I have the longer shifter out of a HB truck, and I think it has good shift boots. The trans only had 60k miles on it. Want me to get you some pictures?

I mean....I have no idea why a Torque converter would need to be 'refurbished'. Most likely some BS from a crook mechanic. Ok, you need to know the difference between a "mechanic" and a mechanic. A real mechanic knows what he's doing and how to do it properly. A "mechanic" is a guy with some tools who knows how to effectively rip you off. Generally, about 85% of repair shops are filled with "mechanics" who have no idea what they are doing. Just because they learned how to change a starter in Ecuador doesn't make them a mechanic. Ok, so first wrong piece of info you gave was that Torque converters need to be refurbished. They don't. Second wrong piece of information. Transfer cases don't have solenoids. Third wrong piece of information, when you say "at least (2 or 3) TC bolts were broken off"... well, there are only FOUR bolts. If two..or three of them were broken, then your car would make lots of vibration. Fourth wrong piece of information, the bolts for the torque converter would NEVER be rusted. They are always submerged in transmission fluid (oil), and they would not accumulate rust. FIFTH wrong piece of information, you can't see the torque converter bolts from underneath. What I mean is, you can't see the torque converter or the bolts unless the transmission is separated/removed. When I say "wrong piece of information", I mean that the mechanic lied to you/you were misinformed. Not "you are lying" or anything. Also, I said that transfer cases don't have solenoids. This is true for our Pathfinders (90-95), but more modern electronic T-cases might have solenoids. The torque converter bolts would be rusted if they were rusty prior to installation. That's the only way I can think of. Water should NOT be getting to your torque converter or bolts.

The above people are correct. It's not about the number or size of the pipes, it's about the flow. Of course, the number and size of pipes directly affect the flow. The scavenging (I think it's called) is true. I'm not exactly sure how it works in regular gasoline engines, but this is what makes 2stroke diesel engines work. Without this, all of the fuel would just fly right out of the exhaust. check out the animation at the top http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Two-stroke_engine#Different_two-stroke_design_types

First of all, why would your Overdrive ever be OFF? There's just no reason for that. But to actually answer your question, it definitely sounds like a torque converter. And the reason it would only happen in OD is because the OD gear is special. OD is SUPPOSED to mean that the driveshaft is spinning much faster than the engine. The engine drops way down in RPMs, while you are in a higher gear. This is different because in non-OD gears, the engine spins faster than the driveshaft. This will put your engine at higher RPMs. If someone was messing around with your transmission, then there might be a loose TC bolt, or you might be low on tranmission fluid

idler pulley is SUPPOSED to be the first thing to check. Next time, keep that in mind since they go bad fairly often.

Yeah. When I posted my last post about the cost, that was about 6 hours ago. I had talked to Alkorahil, or Rob, at FactoryNissanParts. He gave me a pretty respectable price. It was like $30. At this point, it isn't even about the money, I just need those things as soon as possible. He said I could expect them on Monday. Not the day after tomorrow. A few hours ago, I called one of the local dealers that I had called before. I got lucky enough to be connected to a very helpful employee who actually did his job a lil bit. He told me he could match the price of $3.50 per bolt and he could do one-day shipping for an extra 10%. All in all, I think he quoted me like $21 to have them on Tuesday. That sounds awesome, but I don't know how true it is. I don't want to be a pessimist or anything, but can they do that? If FactoryNissanparts, or Courtesy Nissan of Texas can't do that, then why can my local dealer that isn't even dedicated to Nissan? I think it's an Acura dealer.. Pretty much, I guess I'm saying that I really hope that the guy wasn't BS'ing me, or just telling me something I wanted to hear.

I was thinking about doing the exact same thing. I got these two front pathfinder doors that are perfect. They have power windows, power locks, and I think they have premium speakers. Can you do this swap with power locks, too? I think that would be easier than windows, no?

Check rock auto. They had this for a 2000 GMC Sonoma. It was like $1.50 for the pin. and I think a hinge kit was something else that included the pin and some other stuff. I know Rockauto is a little short on the import section, but check it out.

The death wobble is pretty common on Nissan Pathfinders and trucks (the older ones at least). When they get to be a little bit older, like 15-20 years old, bushings and things start to go bad. Well, start, by that time they have usually been bad for a good while. there is a video of Mr. Jim replacing his front sway bar bushings because he had some wobble and unstable steering, but that was for the front. I'm not sure about the back. So, when you go above 40mph, you can feel the bad end wobbling, feeling unstable, jumping around a little more than it should? First of all, I would check lug nuts. Something as simple as that can be overlooked very easily. Also, check your coil springs.

Do those bolts say '21' on them? Never seen that before. Are those factory bolts?

Hey guys thanks a lot. I was on my phone last night and this whole project has turned into the most awful situation. I don't even know if I want to do it anymore. On top of that, the seller just didn't feel like giving me the flywheel bolts, even though he said he included them. I just don't even know what to do. The dealers want $9, $5, and $9 a piece. I called 3 dealers. Even $5 for a bolt is extreme. Even if I felt like paying $30 for 6 bolts, they wouldn't even be here until Thursday. I guess I'm going to the junkyard in dire hopes of finding some bolts. Kingman, I want to especially thank you for the picture. It helped a lot. The seller just gave me a huge bucket of bolts. Trans bolts, crossmember bolts, torsion bars, interior screws and nuts. It was just a big jumble. What did you mean "they are unique to the flywheel. No mixing and matching"? What does that mean? I can't mix and match A/T flywheel bolts and M/T? I know that. Nefarious, thanks for the link to Courtesy Nissan in Texas. Surprisingly, they actually have the cheapest prices. Too bad shipping is $10, and they wouldn't even be here until thursday.

I need to know the specifications of the flywheel bolts for the manual transmission. I think the seller forgot to include them in the sale. He might not have. He gave me a bucket of bolts. None if them seem to fit the crank. Does anyone have a bolt laying around for a picture? The auto flywheel bolts are too short

I mean specifications in general. When people say like.. "I tore down the engine and found that my [insert part here] was within factory specs" how do they know that? Like did Nissan release numbers for how long, tall and wide the pistons were? The circumference of the crank? (those aren't hard to find out, but you get what I mean)

nah. there is A word for it. that word is "new"

Wonderful. When I came back from picking up the Mobil 1 75w90 gear oil (thanks for the coupons!!! Free coolant and some PB blaster) I jokingly asked my dad "hey, you think you could light gear oil on fire? It IS oil" he said "nah, you could probably throw it in a fire and it might smolder" I have no intentions of lighting gear oil on fire and finding out, but it's weird to think about. You would think something that thick wouldn't catch on fire, per se, but it is oil.

only 100k miles?!?!??! WTF? When you do the swap, mind, uh, letting me take that off your hands? Free of charge. Usually, I charge $50 for scrap removal, I'll do you a favor That would require the most fabrication I've ever seen. There is a guy on another Nissan forum who did that. the fabrication... If you want to put a VH45DE (Q45) in your Pathfinder, then check this out http://nissantrailriders.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=1063&start=60

ahh. I do have the factory service manual. I didn't even think to look. Thanks. The FSM is great, but it doesn't have everything. For example, where do you get torque specifications?

that wind whistling noise when you rev it?

Is it normal for the gear oil that came out of my transfer case to reek of burnt metal? I put my finger in it to see how black it was. It was pretty dark and it almost made me throw up it smelled so bad.

He asked how he should fix it. WOW!!! That's some amazing work. That frame is probably the worst I've ever seen and now it looks new again!! That's some magic right there. How did you do that? Some 3/8 sheet metal wrapped around the old frame?

I finally got my transmission out. It had some wires going into some plugs in the engine bay. I assume this is for a power flow for the transmission, but I just want to make sure. (Sorry for the huge pictures. I tried to resize them on photobucket but all 4 of the sizes come out to be very tiny) I'm holding these 3 or 4 plugs that hook into a bracket with plugs near the battery. I assume this is for the power flow for the auto trans? Here's where they hook in. Sorry for it being dark What is this weird plug thing? It was in my frame and half of the head of it was gone. I took it out and it had this tacky, rubber type stuff on it And here's where it goes. I think I have one on both sides Look at my yummy bushings So, pretty much I'm asking: for the 5speed trans, I don't need those plugs? Do I need anything from the old trans? Breather hose for the transfer case? The only electrical things I need are for the sensors, right? What is that weird plug and what is it for? Can I buy all of those bushings from Energy Suspensions? If so, what are they called? I know the ones for the sway bar come in the kit for sway bar bushings. Mr. Jim did a video on it. But what about the other one? What's that called?