1994SEV6

um. alright.

I read several threads here and on other websites about replacing the exhaust manifold studs. I also saw a few videos on youtube. every single time, there was a warning about not drilling off center for danger of hitting a water jacket. If this is the case, then how are you willy-nilly drilling into the heads like that?

Precisely why I'm making sure he's doing it the proper way

It seems alternators are very prone to failure. Especially replacements. The stock ones are good. My dad is on his 4th, FOURTH (meaning this is his 5th total alternator), warranty replacement in 2years. Don't get alternators from Pep boys. Now he's stuck. They won't let him get a refund, they just keep giving him new ones. You might not want to get another warranty replacement. Just return it and get a Nissan one from the dealer. I guess it would actually be a Hitachi one? After rereading your posts, it seems like you might have problems that are unrelated to the alternator in addition to the alternator. You might have knocked some sensors loose of some wires if it's running that rough

No. fskc that. Go back there and tell them to shove it up their asses. It's the same part, brand &^%*ing few. You JUST pulled it out of the box 2hours ago. They can't do that. I thought NAPA was a premium store with more knowledgable employees than some stupid teenagers telling you a Chevy LUV doesn't exist. I guess I was dead wrong. All stores run that risk of "5 Pathfinders with 5 broken alternators" or whatever. Napa ain't anything special.

engine rebuild kit?jeez, what happened?

Damn. Like half of your problems are power windows/power locks. For the locks, your timer is off/broken. for the windows, your window tracks are creating too much resistance. Clean them out and lubricate them. Your blower motor is clogged with leaves and other debris. Clean it out to prevent a fire. There's a thread in the how to section. I don't think changing brake pads is affected by ABS. These vehicles only had rear wheel ABS, so changing your front pads is no big deal. I've heard this hard shifting problem a lot. It's probably something to do with the fluid (it might be improper, old, or dirty) or the transmission could be on it's way out.

no.no. I'm confused again. Why would someone with a key to the vehicle be the thief?

yep. I saw the exact same ad on here and was going to say the same.

Whatchu know about that Nissan forklift? What if I told you it was being used to lift a pallet of forks?

LOLOL. I can't stop saying "oh-ohoh-ohoh @!*%ttt" To that picture. Did someone actually make their car that ridiculous, or was this made as a joke? It's hard to imagine either way. I was trying to think of something clever to say, like "I can't seem to find a __ whatever gauge"

I agree. Some of the fasteners are pretty flimsy sometimes. Especially the ones in the interior. Oh boy. I heard the 10mm studs didn't really help much? From the factory at least.

drilling out the head unnecessarily? Um..yeah. No thanks. I'm good. It was definitely because they weren't strong enough.

THAT MAKES SO MUCH SENSE!!! Dealer installed option. That solves all my confusing thoughts. Did dealers also install these on the Hardbodys? The picture clearly shows a D21, but I would think people in the 90s wouldn't want that in a pickup truck. I could always be very wrong.

I think you're missing the hilarity of the situation.

SO, I got this amazing idea. I've heard here and there how much of an "Adventure" the #6 spark plug is to change. EEK. I haven't looked and intentionally noticed it's position (from the top), so I'll have to take people's word for it. My idea is, since I have my transmission out, and it's so easy to get to the spark plug, wouldn't it be a good idea to do it now? When I say "do it now" I just mean that one spark plug. At this point, I've done so much that I don't even feel like doing a tune-up right now. On top of that, I'm starting to be come strapped on cash. How should I do this? I know it sounds a little.."ghetto" to just do the one spark plug, but I'm more worried about getting it running as soon as possible. My questions are: where is the hard part? Is it hard to get the spark plug boot off properly, and THEN getting to the plug? or is the plug the ONLY hard part and the boot is easy to remove/replace? I'm thinking if the boot is easy, then I'll just do the one and replace the rest later, but if the boot is hard, then I could either replace the wire or just not worry about it right now. I was looking at the picture in the preview, and I noticed a random hose kinda chillin'. Is it disconnected or is that just an illusion? I tried to circle it, but editing in Photobucket is less than generous.

What do you mean "upgrade the size"...? m8 is the diameter of the bolt, right? The diameter of the bolt has to match the head. I can't go around changing that stuff. Sorry, I keep getting grade and class confused, but you know what I mean. I didn't intend it to be a test or experiment, but I guess it will turn out to be. It might be kinda fun. Apparently, they only stock 7 10.9 at a time. I was a little ticked off that they had about 40 of some M6 bolt.

My studs were gone, and even if they weren't, I definitely wasn't going to reuse them. I didn't feel like getting the revised studs from the dealer, and I thought bolts would be easier and cheaper. Tell me what you guys think This is showing the grade of the only studs the hardware store had. They had the proper size in stock, but it was low grade. stud with price prices of various studs. pretty expensive, especially for 5.8 grade. The price of bolts. 10.9 grade at $.65 and 8grade at $.55 They only had 7 10.9 in stock. Got 5 in the 8grade. I just took some picture to show how expensive (or cheap) these are, and to make sure I got the proper ones.

Sorry about that guys. I thought enough people knew I have a HB. I know this is a Pathfinder forum, but it seems this is the only place to get any real info/help on 4x4 nissans. All the other nissan truck sites are for low-rider 4cyl, 2wd, base model ones. All they do is tell me to buy chrome rims. I thought the bedliner in the picture would help though.

OHHHH!! You didn't mention dealership. Well, THAT'S why you're getting ripped off.

I don't know much about small car tires, but I know Michelins will probably last 100K. If Michenlins can go 110k in a S10 Xtreme with a blown 5.7l doing burn outs ERRYDAY then they will do well on your Toyota Matrix. On top of longevity, they are pretty good quality.

uh WHAT?!?! No, don't do that. Don't go jumping on tools. That's how you break stuff. You should never jump on something like a ratchet, you are more than likely to break what you trying to get loose and/or hurt yourself pretty badly. That makes a lot more sense. How would it even fit in? My spare tire carrier is disgustingly rusted. Well, the device isn't rusted too badly, but the mechanism won't budge

ugh. That's a horrible deal. 202k miles for $3200? Eek. Around here, for $3200, I could easily get a WD21 with under 100k miles. They are all over the place. I suppose the options make a difference, but unless it's an LE with EVERYTHING, I wouldn't even consider buying it. Currently, there is a WD21 with 220k miles and the owner is asking $600. It seems to be in pretty good condition too. I don't want to be a troll, but take a look at these. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/cto/2735758478.html 1995 LE for $1950. Almost immaculate condition, but he conveniently doesn't show the mileage. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/2744608562.html Here's the 1995 with 220k for $600. Seems pretty good. Just look around man. For $3200, I would only buy a extremely low mileage WD21 with all the options or a pretty good R50 As far as the automatic transmission, it's really a question of maintenance. If the person was really good with the maintenance, then I wouldn't worry about it. More often than not, people didn't even know about the auto trans issue. Even if you changed the fluid every 30k miles like you are supposed to, your trans would probably be fried. The WD21 trans needed the fluid changed every 15k or so miles to be in the safe zone. Look for an aftermarket trans cooler, that will really answer the question, or just ask the seller. But if you wanted to test it, kyle's method would be correct. Just see how it shifts. My auto trans shifted hard from N to reverse to N to Drive for 6 months before it broke completely. I had no idea that the hard shift was really a problem. I just thought it was a primitive transmission and it wasn't supposed to be soft in a truck.

I don't think this brand was a super cheap one. Usually, really cheap ones (such as Harbor Freight products) the ratcheting mechanism will break long before the metal would bend. I only posted this because it's so amazing. The metal bent, but the ratcheting mechanism is flawless. That's not a part to any jack I've ever seen. It doesn't fit into my jack into any way I could imagine or force.

So..I kinda broke one of my dad's ratchets. The cheater bar was only 6inches. I have had this weird tool or something in my truck since I bought it. I thought it was part of the Jack somehow but I have no Idea anymore. I've asked a few people who are clueless. I hope someone around here knows what it is.