1994SEV6

hey Town, thanks for clearing that up. You're the best at explaining things properly. I just thought it was a frame because it looks almost identical to my truck. When I look through the wheel-well, I see the strut, the strut bracket, the frame, and the brake line. I thought only passenger cars and things of that nature were unibody and anything else had frame rails I guess where I heard this was in context to older vehicles. I really liked some R50s I've seen. I thought about getting one 5 years in the future, but it seems this is a much larger problem than anyone realizes. This reminds me of the chevy vega problem. Can't this be prevented by religious cleaning and maintenance? I feel bad because this is just another blow for Nissan. I know they are trying (well maybe not so much with the newest Pathys), but this is just another strike against them. Anyway, OP, do you have any before and after pics?

it was a lot of words and no pictures. calm yer ****. I read the linked thread and I saw plenty of horror stories of people's Pathfinders being taken from them because someone deemed the truck totaled. I didn't known the word frame was interchangeable with strut.

I can't see the 2nd picture but... Is that strut rot or FRAME rot?

whoa dude. get off mah stuff! I didn't think people could see that. This video was a very poorly put together school project. I didn't know how to use green screen. I tried and it failed horribly.

Older Nissans and Datsuns (probably all older cars) are very prone to melted/warped speedo needles. A truck, especially a 24 year old one, has probably been in the sun for a lot of its life and the plastic on the speedo needle warped. I have see them warped beyond belief, but I have also seen them warped so slightly that you can't even tell. It's so subtle, that you can't even tell, but the needle is rubbing and catching on the plastic that makes up the gauge. The needle well increase just fine, to 70mph you said, but it will catch and jump down and eventually will stop moving at 30mph you said. Also, the pin/rod that attaches the needle to the mechanism behind the gauge may be bent. The bent pin in combination with the warped needle might be your problem. I can see the sun-faded paint on the hood, and the general condition of the vehicle. It was ridden hard and put away wet. I don't think any possibilities can be ruled out without being checked. All of the Pathfinders had manual speedometer cables until 1994. That's when Nissan implemented electronic speed measuring. A 1987 Pathfinder would have a speedometer cable, but I don't think it could go bad in the way you might be thinking. The cable could have stretched or frayed, but in that case it wouldn't work at all.

what controls where the flow if air goes is a white circular mechanism that is moved by a cable. When you move the dial from defrost to head & feet, the cable spins this circular thing in a different direction which shuts off the defroster vents while opening up the dash vents. If you only have air at the defrost vents, then something may be faulty with that mechanism. It's right above the gas pedal secured to the center console thing where your radio is. Just give it a look over.

What is going on here?

I saw Royal Purple at my local Advance Auto Parts also. Which is funny because it's a new location so they barely have any useful product on hand. I knew the Royal Purple would work without even looking at the bottle. If there is a branch of Gl-5 (mt-1) that is compatible, then you know that Royal Purple damn well better have the best formulas at $20 per quart. I just didn't want to spend $150 on t-case and trans oil changes.

I completely understand what situation you are in with the apartment complex. I live in one too and I can't do anything to my truck except change a tire. I know what you said, and I was trying to give you methods that might help you get around your unknown snag.

That's BHP?

So it sounds like you're trying to lower the engine into place, then line it up with and connect the transmission, THEN bolt the engine down? I read your posts a few times over, and it seems to me that you might be trying to adjust and maneuver too many things at once without having anything bolted down for a fixed position. Is that input shaft supposed to just come out like that? When I had my trans out, I never tried to mess with the input shaft, but it would seem that it wouldn't just come out as easily as that. Did you actually bend and ruin the input shaft, or is it just lodged in the TC in a weird way? When you have a snag, do you have to completely remove the engine again? Like when you took out that input shaft, you had to re-hoist the engine up and investigate? Based on how I removed my transmission, consider these options If you have the clearance, I think you should bolt the flywheel/flexplate whatever to the engine prior to installation. Then bolt the TC to the flywheel. I think this will make lining up the transmission much easier. Also, bolting up a TC while the engine is in would be murder. So then you are 100% certain that the TC fits properly. And it spins properly and all of that. That's when you slid the transmission into place. Just put the transmission on a jack and slide it forward. Since you can't really get in there and see the input shaft going into the TC, you want to match up the bell housing to the engine block. Match the top of the trans to where it's supposed to go. Match the bottom to the bottom. Get in the cab and use the t-case shift to maneuver the transmission left or right if it is slightly off course. Oh yeah, it sounds like you previously had a problem with getting the shafts lined up notch for notch. The notches on the shafts have to line up. They only do that 2 or 4 times per revolution, for example. If they don't line up, don't force it. Just get someone to put a 1-1/16 (?) socket on the crank pulley and turn the engine over until it slides in. I know this is long, but it sounds like you need all the help you can get. You asked how you could most quickly install an engine, but ironically, it's taken you 3 months. I can tell you have some significant level of mechanical knowledge, but there must be something that's slapping you in the face that you just can't see. Honestly, it seems to me that you're trying to do this the craziest way possible. I know I only removed an auto trans, and put a M/T, so I don't know how to install an A/T, but the transmission should be by itself. You still have like 5 or 6 inches of clearance with the trans, and you just pop it into place. What I recommended that you do is exactly how I removed my trans in reverse. Because I was so stubborn and didn't want to remove the torsion bars, I actually removed and re-installed my trans like 3 times.

My mouth doesn't type. But I get your point. You're right. Sorry for the over-activity. This forum is just something new for me. I'll tone it down. Maybe even in a few weeks I'll get bored and leave. Anyway Towncivilian, the BFGs are highly praised, but they would be overkill if you never go off road. Besides, you seem like the type of guy who would be more interested in the chemical composition of the rubber. Tell us how the Yokohamas turn out.

I like how the camera was shaky at 0mph, but it was solid and steady at 90mph. That's a pretty nice sound by the way. Kefferjoe, do you have anything except the flowmaster muffler? Headers perhaps? or are you not allowed to do that because of the pre-cats? Sounds like that would mess your emissions up pretty badly.

the crank pulley? the thing that all the belts run off of? How would that pulley affect how your engine fires? the crank will spin no matter what.

man this is crazy. I have some mismatched semi-worn BFGs and Goodyear Wranglers. They are both mud + snow tires and they look very meaty, but they are wearing down. I think the two back ones are 30% and 50%, the front ones are like 70% and 20%. Unless I floor it, they still have amazing traction. Today I went drifting in an open parking lot and I could only spin wheels into 3rd gear. I think BFGs are a very good option. You can get re-treads for only about $90 a piece. Then you will do well in the mud, the snow, the rain, and in general they will have great traction.

my vg is deafening at 5,000 rpm.. it just gets deep-loud until 3k, then it gets high pitched loud and from there it just gets higher pitched and louder.

That's actually a good idea, but why would you ever have to drain your fluid out only to put it right back in a few seconds later?

and honestly...low end torque is what really matters for trucks. For Corvettes or whatever, it's ALL about HP, but trucks are more about torque. But this is just an SUV and torque isn't super important, but I would prefer my torque because I use my truck for work.

I know you're looking for the measurements, but honestly it doesn't matter that much. Just crank the bars up until the front end looks how you want it. Remember, even if someone goes give you the measurements, it's not exact. You have to crank up your bars to that measurement, then you have to drive the truck and let them settle for a few hours, then you have to measure and repeat. Some people crank their bars up for a certain look they like, or to fit bigger times. Some lowrid-- I mean, people crank them waaayy down to lower their truck. Just crank them up until it looks level with the rear, or until you like it.

how does timing get messed up anyway? I thought the timing belt dictated the timing. oh wait, that's for the valves. So the distributor controls the timing of the spark plugs? How would this timing get off?

generally I'd agree. But I have that feeling that I just did something soooo stupid that it's my obligation to fix it. Usually, it's the trucks fault that something bad happens. If I'm trying to fix something and the space is too tight for a wrench, or a bolt breaks or whatever THAT'S then I say F it.

oh yeah. forgot to mention...someone snapped the head off of that bolt that you turn to release tension on the p/s belt. I am terrible at paint or with software on computers in general. But you get the idea. I was looking at the bolt and it looked like it was supposed to be head-less on both ends. I looked more closely and saw a fragment of a thread coming up and figured that the bolt head snapped off. PB Blaster and visegrips I suppose..

whaat? It would seem like the torque converter would be the least of your worries. I think there are only two ways to put it on since it's notched. I know it's heavy but just muscle it in there. Not really a big deal. It might be easier to put a bolt though and do like two threads just to get it to hang on. Definitely value Nefarious' words. He knows what he's talking about

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwj4ZVxIDmw Here the A/C belt is off. I was thinking what if it is the valves? The valves are somehow tapping? That doesn't make sense though. If the engine was idling at 1,400 rpm, and the tapping is at a certain speed, then it would be twice as fast at 2,800rpm, right? Well, that's clearly not the case. Even at 1,600rpm, the tapping is multiple times faster. At about 1,800rpm it goes so fast that you can't even hear the individual taps. If other words need to be said, the engine is going X speed, and the tapping is going Y. at 2x= 20y. 1.1x=5y? That doesn't make sense if it was the valves. I think someone said it might be the water pump or something. That would make more sense, wouldn't it? If the water pump pulley is moving, let's say, 5 times as fast as the engine, then that would make sense.

maybe I'll use some of that super-uber cheap gear oil and flush it out. The stuff that's no-name and like $3.50 for a quart.. 7-11 special.