1994SEV6

generally, a faulty crankshaft sensor will prevent your vehicle from starting. If it does manage to start, it would stall very quickly.

I read something on bobistheoilguy.com about SOME gear oils eating the "yellow metals". Some gear oils don't? Just curious, what are you using?

I got my M/T into my truck. I got some rainwater in the trans while it was sitting. I wanted to replace the fluid anyway. Around here, I read that I NEED GL-4 gear oil and NOTHING else will work. GL-5 will eat my synchros or something? This is my first car, I don't have a lot of money, and I want to keep it for a long time. Therefore, I don't want to be destroying my synchros or anything. I know that Redline and Amsoil make a really good Gl-4, but I can't find those locally. I wanted to get them in person to get them sooner, and I hoped to buy them from Advance Auto Parts so I can use the coupons. Advance Auto Parts doesn't have anything that's Gl-4, all they have is Gl-5 and Gl-5/Gl-4. I called up the dealer. I wasn't planning on buying gear oil from them, I just wanted to see if they know where I could get it. They told me that GL-4 was an outdated fluid and that I was going to be tricky to buy. He told me that GL-5 WILL work. When he told me this I lost all confidence in him and quickly got off the phone. I called up NAPA auto parts since the employees there are miles better than AAP, Pepboys, or Autozone. A very nice and extremely knowledgeable gentleman answered the phone. I explained my situation of needing GL-4 and NOT Gl-5. He went back and checked. He had a no-name gallon of Gl-4 for sale for $36. He said that Amsoil was the best oil in the industry and Mobil 1 is a close second. He told me some stories about how his high school buddy is an industry chemist specializing in lubrications and he told me all about the advertising BS of oils and whatnot. Then he told me the same thing the dealer told me. Gl-5 SUPERSEDES Gl-4. It's like DEXRON. DEXRON VI is compatible with DEXRON I, II, III, IV, and V. He told me that I can use GL-5 no problem. This guy proved his knowledge and experience. I wanted to believe him, but I really don't want to break my transmission. What's the real story?!

are you messy with your oil changes?

you're obviously the new boy in town because you didn't read anything. This thread was made for the purpose of determining if it was unsafe or life threatening to drive.

I'm lost here... I thought the point of a LSD was to give traction to both wheels. That's why both wheels leave rubber when you do a burn out. BOTH wheels still spin. If this VLSD isn't a LSD until 30mph, then what's the point? If you try to do a burn out, you will only peel one wheel. Going 30mph, you aren't going to randomly loose traction. It's not very likely, is it?

I fixed it for you. Got brand new better designed frames...? What do you mean? They crushed the trucks. The owners got 1.5x kbb value Do you mean the trucks AFTER 1999 received the redesigned frames? Oh yeah, watch out for the 2.7l engine FYI. The 2.7l has this weird tick. Within a few thousand miles of driving the truck off of the dealership lot, the engines would have rod knocks. Toyota completely denied it even though it sounds like a jackhammer.

my transmission pan had a nasty gash (not punctured), but it still worked. I think the pans are actually a lot thicker metal than you would think

this whole situation is weird... I've read this post twice and I read your other one. Something seems wrong. These Nissan rear diffs, ESPECIALLY the H223Bs are some of the best ever made. Not like the best for Nissan, no...these are better than Fords or Danas or whatever else there is. Unless someone took a jackhammer to the insides of it, I can't comprehend why it would be broken. You wouldn't believe the amount of Pathfinders and other Nissans that have gone their whole lives (200k, 250k+) on the factory fluid. When you talk about metal shavings/pieces, what do you mean? Do you mean minor shavings, or like CHUNKS of metal gears? A chunk possibly might be able to lodge itself between the mesh gears, but I don't think this would send your truck careening through 4 lanes of traffic killing everyone in its way. If a chunk lodged itself between gears, the insane energy of (4000rpm or something) would shred the chunk. If the gears break completely, it won't be explosive or anything. You just simply won't go. The gears just won't turn. No big deal. You will have to call a tow truck..etc.

if so, you need to not turn the engine on until you fix it. You need to replace the belt and consider yourself insanely lucky

LOL you mean those trucks that Toyota bought back at 1.5x kbb value because of the insane frame rust?

I live pretty much in the DC area. We max out at about 95 (at the very hottest) degrees, and get down to about 20 or so if it's a brutal winter. I think I'm running what the owner's manual recommends. I think it's 5w30. Royal Purple.

that's the wickedest picture I've ever seen

thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat's something else entirely. dat engine. Ok, you're right. I was going to include the phrase "unless your engine is running backwards", but I didn't think it was necessary. I guess I was wrong.

uh.no you don't. You can't have "backfire" in the throttle body. lol. It's physically impossible. Backfire is when you have post-combustion in the exhaust. Popping might be your injectors. Is this at high RPMs or all across the spectrum?

I am definitely expanding my tool collection since I'm so young. But I need to get the basics for sure. The only problem is, I don't know where to get that type of stuff. I know I can get some decent stuff from Home Depot or Sears, but those are about 10 miles away. tools from AAP or Autozone..eek. I know you were joking about the hearing, but sometimes I worry. It seems like I'm the only one who can hear it.

WOW. I totally misread that. It was so confusing how you typed that. Yeah, that was a typo. I thought you were trying to say "referring a father isn't the brightest thing to do" Hmm. I will go ahead and make a better video tomorrow. I have one or two, but I don't think they are worth posting on here. I will definitely take my accessory belts off. I think I have some whirring coming from the AC compressor. Are these known for failing? I'm a little hesitant to remove anything from the engine bay. I'm not sure why, I guess I'm just scared of messing something up, but it would definitely help.

Lol. I know the Locktite isn't causing the problem Nothing changes when it warms up. That was actually the one doubt that I had about broken manifold studs. It's weird actually, I had 3 broken studs, I replaced them, and nothing changed.

How would not having a grille be a safety concern? It's just a cosmetic/trim piece. If you are talking about not having a bumper..how is that a safety concern? Most of today's vehicles don't even have bumpers from the factories. They have excuses of bumpers, but that's it.

I used a good screwdriver once and put it around on some parts. It was pretty cool what I could hear, but nothing sounded off. I tried to put the screw driver on the intake, the ac compressor (separate issue), and I tried to get it on the block, but I don't think I did. It was a bit hard to get to the exhaust, so I might go get one and try that. I don't know the torque one the bolts, I just did them arm-tight. These are bolts, not studs. I know that makes a little bit of a difference. What happens if they are too tight? Besides ruining the threads on the head or something? I would like to think my dad's not deaf. He can hear me pretty well, but it's in his late 40s. I do have really good hearing, but I know it's not some Daredevil stuff Is that common on the vg30s? I haven't heard of those really being a problem on these. Also, my engine is fairly low mileage (130k), and I've been using very high quality oil

no grille? You mean so all you see is the radiator, front support beams, and the head lights? I'm sure it wouldn't be illegal, but it might not come off as classy if that matters to you. It's definitely not a safety concern or anything. To be honest, I've seen some crazy stuff done to cars. If people can duct tape their doors on, then I would think you can drive around without a grille.

Before I did my whole transmission swap, I had a loud tapping. I had a bunch of people tell me it was a rod knock, but I drove it like this for about 5000 miles. Pretty much, it was put to me like this. It's not worth fixing, so keep driving it. I was never convinced it was a rod knock though. So I came across this forum and a few others and I was sure it was my broken exhaust manifold studs. I took the manifolds off, and sure enough, I had three broken studs. YES!!! YES!!! I thought. Finally, I'll get rid of that deafening tapping. So I drilled out the broken studs, got the heads all cleaned up and looking nice. I went to the hardware store and got new bolts. I got seven 10.9 m8 30mmx1.25 and 5 8.8s. I think that's what they are. I got the proper size and thread, but I got 30mm. I thought the proper size was 30mm, but then someone told me it was 25mm. I would have to use spacers with the 30mm. I didn't have spacers, so I tested one of the bolts, and it fit fine. So I got new gaskets, and put the manifolds on. I put the bolts in about 30 ft. lbs and I used some Locktite on them. I got everything hooked up. I start the truck up for the first time in 6 weeks and... TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP. I want to kill myself. I know it's not a rod knock, but this is pissing me off. And what's worse, I'm the only one that can clearly hear it apparently. To me, it's DEAFENING. I can't hear anything over the tapping, but I asked my dad and he's like "what tapping? What are you talking about? You mean that REALLY faint tapping noise? that's nothing. I really don't hear what you're talking about" What's going on here? Is it possible that the bolts aren't tight? I thought they were tight, but in actuality, I was just at the bottom of the threads? Is it possible that one of the studs broke already? From being torqued down too hard or something?

the purpose of a gasket is to mold and seal, right? I'm sure a little bit of leftover gasket don't hurt anything, but it is definitely better to get more off. The way I see it, you can spend 5 minutes getting 80% of it off, or you can spend an hour getting 95% of it off. In the end, it's almost the same.

raised the transmission into place, bolting on the trans cross member, slide the transmission into the engine, bolted up the cross member, bolted up the trans, re-installed the starter and associated gussets, and inserted the drive shaft. Oh yeah, re-installed the torsion bars also. I don't think I cranked them up enough. The front end sits lower than the rears, but I kinda like it. Is it hurting anything? I'll crank them up for extra ground clearance if snow is supposed to come though. It's amazing what you can get done if you put your mind to it. Wow.

thinking about it..that would have to be one heck of a rock. If you hit the pan on a rock, wouldn't the motor mounts absorb <some> of the impact? They do have some give. The engine might tilt and the rock would slide right off?