1994SEV6

The part that you circled in red is your starter. The oil pressure sending unit is directly above the starter and to the left of the oil filter. It is entirely possible for the sensor to come loose and leak oil. I'm not sure that it would create a puddle though. And I think it would only leak oil when the engine is running. When the engine is off, the oil line is below the sensor. Only the oil pressure gets it up to the sender unit. When taking a 2nd look at your picture, I don't see a wire for the sender unit. It could be out of view, but see if there is. OH yeah. Just because there is oil on your starter doesn't mean that the sender unit is leaking. With the placement of the oil filter, it is common for people to get oil on their starters when doing oil changes.

yeah. I was thinking the exact same thing but it almost seems too small. Nissan used those clever little devices to control how shifters move. This DOES look like the piece that does on the t-case shifter, but I still think it looks too small. With that shape, it couldn't go to anything else. The area highest on the picture is for 2hi, then you move it down for 4hi, then you have to push the shifter down for N, then you slip it into 4lo, which is the last spot on the ..whatever you would call this. It is very simple and I would think it would be easy to put back on, but I have no idea why anyone would have removed it.

Touche. You seem to have won this one, but you haven't seen the last of me.

welding equipment? to re-aim your headlights??? You do know that there are two screws (one on the top of the headlight, and on the outside) that are FOR re-aiming the headlights? Oh yeah. If you want cupholders, you should talk to a guy around here by the name of Tungsten. He's got you covered. He typically stocks cupholders from all major makes and models and he can give you explicit instructions on how to modify whatever cupholder you want to fit into your Pathfinder. I think it might be his life's work.

That's an extremely interesting Idea. I think your idea of the MAF is right. For the most part, air ALWAYS has 22% (or whatever it is) oxygen. This is a constant. If you have X amount of air passing through the MAF, then you have a directly proportional amount of oxygen. The MAF doesn't chemically know the difference between oxygen and nitrogen. If you put pure O2 through the MAF it would think it is 77% nitrogen. 77% of the pure O2 would be wasted. The injectors would not spray enough fuel to create a good fuel air ratio. The ratio would be 3x more biased towards oxygen. This might make a difference but it might not because it's the same. The fuel utilitizes the 22% oxygen and wastes the rest just as if it were nitrogen.

wat?

apparently this is actually extremely possible. I don't think a bad/broken distributor can cause it, I think it happens when your timing is 180 degrees off. What I mean is, you can't have perfect timing, and all the sudden your distributor breaks and makes you engine run backwards. It is entirely possible that your distributor or another ignition component could be broken. What makes you think it's running backwards? backfiring in the throttle body? exhaust coming out of the airbox? I don't know if it's possible on these engines, but you can take a perfectly functional engine and run it backwards. It only works on some 4 strokes and all 2 strokes. If you have a 2 stroke ATV, just put it in 1st gear but push it in reverse. I think there are a few threads around here about this. Look around some

4chan? what's that? who changed my post? I don't know what 4chan is. a friend of mine just posted this picture on my facebook wall. I thought it was funny. why did someone change it?

you do make a fair point.

I appreciate the link. It's much better than nothing, but that's an adapter of sorts. An adapter works fine for most things, but it causes extra play and weakness. Also, tools from Harbor freight aren't the best at all. Even my soft aluminum drain plug would tear that adapter apart in quick work.

Thanks. I had this idea that the blower motor was somewhere much more inconvenient to get to. I thought the resisters were right there and the blower was somewhere else.

yep. that's where I learned to clean out my resistor area.

thanks! That's exactly what I was hoping to get.

ouuuu!!! That's a good idea. I'm not exactly sure where the blower motor is. The thing you take out to clean the leaves are the resistors, right? So the big black thing that the resistors are bolted too is the blower motor?

I vote for dorky-ness. I suggest: For the VIN, the first 3 digits indicate where it is from. JN8. J = Japan. N8= multi-purpose vehicle. My truck is 1N6 which is USA produced truck. A 3N1 would be a Mexican produced car. It's actually kinda cool. A VIN number can tell you anything and everything about a car. Without even using a computer you can still figure some stuff out. Nunya is also correct. The first 3 digits tell you the country and type of vehicle, but the 11th digit specifies the plant it was made in. http://nissanhelp.com/diy/common/nissan_vin.htm

In the summer I used my A/C very rarely for fear of burying my MPG even lower than 17. I did use it once or twice though. Both times I noticed a flickering noise kind of. My friend had an S10 who had the same noise and then his A/C compressor broke. I wasn't really convince that I had the same problem but I decided to not use the A/C just in case. Just another problem I don't want to deal with. Anyway, it's starting to get a bit colder (not really ) so I've been using my defroster or heat every now and again. Sometimes I notice the same flickering noise. It's not instant though. Sometimes the noise will come after 5 mins of the blower being on, sometimes I can have the heater on for an hour and I won't hear anything. I cleaned out the blower resistor area. There wasn't much there, but I got most of it. Is this a common problem? Maybe there are some stubborn leaves that haven't settled all the way in my resistor area? I just want to get it taken care of in case something is close to breaking. I'm going to be using my heat all winter and since the heat on Nissans is so amazing, I would like to take advantage of it.

we can't take tours in the Tennessee plant?

Is there such a thing as a 13mm drive? Instead of 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 inch, is there 13mm? I think that would be most useful instead of an adapter. Anyway...I was pretty tired of messing with it on the ground. I called up some shops to help me out. Typical BS "I'll charge you for 1/3 hour. So it'll cost you $40 to get it out" "Oh yeah. If it takes my guy 20mins then I'll only charge you like $30 bucks. No big deal. we do it all the time" Then I finally called a local Midus and got the coolest guy. He said bring it in and he would do it for free. I get there and it's the coolest guy ever. He's like some 21 year old guy and it's the most relaxed shop. Got a pile of mufflers over hurr, got a half assembled S10 over derr, got a 1970s Dodge truck with 40 inch tires.. NBD. He put it up on a lift and pretty much did the same stuff I did. 1/2 inch drive, breaker bar with extensions..a long pipe for leverage. He didn't make it much worse but he couldn't get it off. He soaked it with some more PB Blaster and told me to just keep spraying it. I'm just going to use the suction pump that Jamesrich did, but I'll keep at it. At this point, getting the fluid out is most important, but I do want to get the drain plug out so I can replace it.

wow. That makes a lot more sense. The 1/2 drive seemed so obvious, but it actually didn't fit very well. I just gooogled drain plug and had some difficulty finding it.. I tried "square drain plug removal tool" and got some results. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM209377291P?sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=SPM198324885 Here's a kit from sears, but it says it's a 1/2 drive.

you're probably better than me, but I have terrible luck with those gauges. Whenever I try to pull the needle out (in the JY or my own truck) I break the needle, break the little rod, or I break the gauge completely. I had to replace my temp. gauge to do this but then snapped my fuel gauge on the re-installation and had to swap it out. No fun.

I was going to fill through the shifter. It's like 10x easier and that's the only simple way to overfill to 5.1qt. I didn't think about getting the plugs out, but I couldn't have done it anyway. The trans had fluid in it and I couldn't just tip it up-side-down. The fluid would have come running out. I guess I could have put the shifter back on and and only flipped it 90degrees, but I wasn't even going to change the fluid until I realize it had some rainwater in it.

what actually happened? You said the sidewall blew out, but you didn't say how. I think we would all be interested in hearing this. What I did tried to do today... Finally got my 5quarts of Redline in the mail. frickin' UPS. I swear. I was sitting 5 feet from the door and didn't hear a thing. I had to go to the dang depot and get my crap t 9pm. Couldn't get my drain plug out for my life. I tried PB Blaster. Let it soak. I got the ratchet in there really good. Is it me, or can the drive only go in the drain plug about halfway? I think that's really the problem... I was using a really beefy Craftsman ratchet so I could get a good angle on it without an extension. I tried to use all kind of cheats to get it. The wrench just dug into the plug. At this point it wasn't too bad. I got out my propane torch and put it on the plug. I thought I could heat it up and break loose some of the friction or torque or whatever the force is at this moment. I doubt I got the metal anywhere near hot enough, but tiny fragments of the plug were burning off. Strange. The torch didn't work so I tried to heat it up (I set the torch there for a good 2mins) and then shock it with liquid nitrogen. I used one of those computer duster cans and held it upside down. That didn't work. I think my bolt is almost completely rounded by this point. OH yeah. I went off at it with a hammer. I was feeling pretty frustrated and I thought the hammer might loosen the plug up some. Couldn't hurt, right? I also tried to tighten it a little bit. Didn't budge Just for kicks, I looked over and saw a plug on my T-case. "the plug isn't facing completely down towards the ground. *idea* that means it must be the fill plug!!" WRONG.... by the way, both the fill and drain plugs of the T-case came out with the easiest of efforts. I'm pretty not happy. It was the drain plug and purple fluid came gushing out. My arm was soaked. That stuff is really under pressure. I was pretty damn confused at this point. PURPLE fluid? Is this some weird kind of premium gear oil? I soaked a napkin in it and examined it more closely. It had a faint smell of ATF, but it also smelled like coffee. It looked like some ATF with coffee too. I think I might still have a little bit on my plug. What else can I do? I know I'll probably have to use a turkey baster or a pump through the fill hole, but what else could I possibly try? I could probably get my hands on an impact gun

it's awesome and pathetic at the same time.

Damn! Owner took the ad down

Here's something I did. Jack up the front end. Put your t-case in neutral. Spin your secondary drive shaft by hand. Since the front diff is open, both wheels might not spin. One wheel will lock and you will see it move. If the other wheel doesn't lock then try turning the cv shaft by hand. If it still doesn't lock then you might have a problem. Another way to see would be to put it in 4wd, drive it a few feet, then Jack it up. By that time, the hubs should definitely be locked.