1994SEV6

These WD21s have 21 gallon tanks. A lot of people can't believe it. I haven't had my tank topped off in so long I can't even remember. Most people can't seem to get the needle above ~7/8 of a tank either. How I would assume the fuel gauge sensor works is by using a floater. I have seen multiple other vehicles use a flotation device secure by a thin piece of metal that holds it in place. The float goes up and down depending on how much gas you have. The piece of metal that it is connected to, in turn, goes up and down. Somewhere along the piece of metal, it brushes against a contact plate. The plate has raised sections on it to create contact. If the metal contacts the plate at the top, then you have a full tank, if the metal contact the plate lower down, then you have less. The problem is over 200k miles or whatever, the contacts start to wear down. That's when your gauge works sporadically or not work at all. Even on newer vehicles, such as my dad's 2000 Sonoma, they use this system. Even at 70k miles, my dad's contact plate was flat and worn like you wouldn't believe. And yet, we went to a junkyard, and found a perfect contact plate on a vehicle with 140k miles. Go figure. That's would I would assume anyway. It's a pretty primitive system. No offence, but a lot of information systems on these older Nissans are primitive. Which is why they work for a good long time.

wait what? I'm a little confused by this. "unless I'm doing a VG in a 4x4 hardbody or 2wd car with the wd21"? Well, I do have a 4x4 hardbody with a VG in it. Anyway guys. Real quick. I just got home. I figured out what that thumping. I knew it wasn't uneven tear wear because it developed too fast and it was too solid of a sound. On top of that, I can only hear tire slap above ~15mph. So I got an idea that maybe it was loose lug nuts. It was. all 12 of my front lug nuts were finger tight. I'm pretty scared for my life now. I don't leave loose lug nuts and even with vibrations, I can't imagine how all 12 of them could get that loose. So all 12 were loose, and now one of them is stripped. Threads of the lug nut were in threads of the wheel stud.

Yeah. I have cloth. In 95% mint condition.

OH!! sorry. I completely forgot to look at the 2nd page. NVM my post. It sounds like you solved one problem and uncovered/caused another one! Has to be sensor related. Those damn sensors P.S.: if you do, indeed, drive it off a cliff (which I don't condone in any way, shape, or form, no no no) please give me your seats before you do!

Thanks for all the input, guys! I really appreciate it. Thanks Silverton and thanks Vagabond (quite the lovely name you have) for the pictures. They really helped a lot. I've actually driven it about 5 miles without the long bolt in. I must have spent 20 minutes trying to put it back in, and I just couldn't get it to line up or something else was blocking it. IDK. I was already late so I said F it and left. Nothing seems to be different except a thumping. It kind of sounds like a tire slap when your tire has uneven wear, but it has developed too fast and it sounds a little more solid. The sound matches the speed of the tire. Definitely coming from the front, and if I didn't know better, I would say the front pass. side. After about 20mph, I can't detect it anymore because it's going too fast. Around ~7mph/parking lot speed, it gets really ominous. Sorry I haven't been replying. I really hate it when people are helping me and we're on a roll, but I don't reply. I've been doing driver school and that takes up most of my day after regular school. I'll have to check a few things and spray some PB on it tomorrow (thanks Kingman). I was already thinking of doing that, but I wanted to make sure it was safe.

maybe the vibrations of the engine are knocking something loose? Maybe that's why it juggles at idle. Some connection is slipping in and out? When you floored it, I'm sure that created some vibration.

Hey check these out Nissan beat ya to it! Both of those truck hoods are stock. The top one is a 1983 720 cab/hood with factory vents. The second picture is a 1980 720 with a factory hood. Just thought you might appreciate these considering your design.

yup yup. In D.C. they have a law that your vehicle can't have any rust showing. I sure do see a lot of cars with their rocker panels covered in bumper stickers. Hmm.. But seriously, if you don't fix it properly, the rust will just get worse. You might want to try something like this.

oh jeez! I'm so happy I didn't go from auto to auto. I didn't know you had to reinstall the torque converter like that...sounds terrible.

:rofl: HAHAHAHAHLOLOL..hahahaha... I don't get it... Column grinding, eh? Have you tossed $1 bills at your steering wheel lately?

A transmission swap isn't terrible if you have 4 things 1)SPACE <--this is THE most important part of doing automotive work. And make sure you have the space. Not like "oh, I can use my neighbors driveway for a few days without him knowing. You need your own dedicated space. 2)Time. If you are one of those people who says "Jeez, I don't even have 10 minutes a week to do..blah blah", then this isn't for you. You are going to need to dedicate hours a day until the job is finished. You are going to need time to do the job and time to figure out how to do the job. This might be because you don't have the right tools, or you need to research on NPORA how to do..blah blah. 3)Know-how/experience. Obviously, you need to be somewhat mechanically inclined and you need to know how to properly use a wrench. 4)Tools. Always important, but least important on this list. You can always buy new tools, or borrow them, or somehow improvise. What I have said above is obvious, but you still need to make sure. Going into a project unprepared is the worst thing you can do. This is how it was on my Hardbody, and I can't imagine it will be TOO much different for you. I guess the first thing you would do is remove your driveshafts. Remove your main propeller shaft and your secondary (4x4) driveshaft. For my truck, each end of each driveshaft had 4 14mm bolts. If it's anything like mine, you will need two box end wrenches. A socket won't work. Then you want to unbolt the trans from the engine. You want to unbolt it before unmounting the transmission so it can move freely and not stress the bolts/engine. For me, there were 6 bolts securing the trans to the engine, 6 bolts securing gussets (metal plates that block dirt, mud, etc, from entering the trans) to the trans, and 2 bolts for the starter. You might want to remove the starter first because it's easy and you want to just get it out of the way. Then take the rest of the bolts out. Remembering where they go. Set the gussets aside and continue. The next thing you want to do is unbolt the transmission from the trans cross member. The cross member spans under the transmission and bolts to either side of the frame. You should have two bolts for each side of the frame, and two bolts securing the transmission to the frame. You want to unbolt the middle two bolts first that secure the member to the trans. Once you do that, the trans is loose. R50s don't have torsion bars, so I think I'm correct with the next step. You want to lift the trans with a jack of some sort, and keep it suspended. Then you unbolt the trans cross member from the frame and remove the cross member Once you have the member out, you can remove the trans. Oh wait, before you remove the trans, you need to disconnect cooler lines and wires. That's not really a big deal. Before lowering it, you want to slide it backwards to clear it from the torque converter, THEN you can lower it. Then you slide it out and put the new trans in. Just reverse the steps. I was assuming this is an automatic trans. If it's a manual, then you need to disconnect the slave cylinder line and remove the shifter. Those are about the only differences. I didn't mention how to remove shifter linkages and physical things like that. You can figure that out if you're thinking about doing a trans swap. I did my trans swap on a stock hardbody truck in a gravel driveway on jackstands. I used a floor jack to lift the trans. I was on my own mostly and had a moderate tool supply. Jack up the front and put it on jackstands. It took my quite a long time the first time, but if I did it again, I could probably get it done in two days. Honestly, if I had the space, tools, and parts provided for me, I would do this job for about $300 I suppose.

What about a lint roller? Tape on a stick. I think that's worth doing.

that's crazy. Brake cleaner can kill you, but carb cleaner is ok?

that's really important when you're sitting in the back! I didn't mean like "jeez, why would they EVER add more gears?! It's so stupid!" I meant like...jeez, new 8-speed transmissions when 3-speeds were the best you could get. I understand the whole power band or efficiency band thing. It seems like a big price to pay just to save a bit of gas. It didn't seem to benefit our Nissans anyway. I'm always thinking about that Chrysler 8speed. I was thinking about it when I typed that post. So ridiculous. It might always be in the desired power band, but it's ALWAYS shifting. And, you guessed it, shifting is the most harmful thing to an auto trans. Kinda funny how that works.

Just curious, how long do they squeal? Is it just a short burst during start-up, or is it a long drawn out thing that wakes up your whole neighborhood? Besides the belts being loose, moisture can do this. It's unlikely that your belts would be damp on every start up, but could be a contributing factor somehow. It's a long shot, but maybe there is coolant getting on your belts. Other than tension and water, doesn't this happen if your belt is glazed? If became glazed somehow, wouldn't it slip and squeal a bit? If you are strictly asking how to not over-tighten your belts, then I would suggest taking them off and starting over. Carefully install each belt and tension it according to specs. Start with the belt for your water pump and start the engine after each installed belt to check for squealing. I have heard Gates to be a good brand, but maybe the belt is stretching a little bit or it was improperly manufactured. To measure the inflection of the belt, you put tension on the belt, then apply 22lbs. of force on the belt in the location that the manual instructs (usually between the furthest two pulleys) and measure how much the belt moves. A lot of the procedures in the FSM aren't easy, but that's how you do it.

we all know he's here because that didn't work!

no. I'm not sure. Mind telling me what I'm doing wrong? I'm sure it's something. This is before going at it with the hammer, but nothing changed after the hammer. I've even started it up twice hoping the force on the belt would help. Nothing. Is it severely rusted or what? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXLsHaUz7A8

I love your dry humor Sewebster. I thought of using a hammer, but I didn't want to break anything. My other concern was what if I get it loose, but I can't get it back on in time for me to be somewhere tonight. I said fskc it and started whacking. I gave it about 50 good hard whacks on the pulley laterally from the wheelwell.

oh alright. Of course there's a system to everything. I personally hate wal-mart, but I just saw it and didn't think it was half bad. The reviews are decent.

LOL. Fords. LOLOL. Mustangs. LOLOLOL. Automatic Mustangs. It sounds like those 3speeds were actually really good. I just don't understand why the automotive industry is moving towards more gears. For each gear they add, the repair bill doubles!

Some people might be interested in this? http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pioneer-DXT-2369UB-Complete-Car/17242512 Pioneer headunit and comes with 4 speakers. As you can tell, I don't know much about car audio, but it seems like it's a good deal for only 85$

Just regreased my idler pulley for my A/C belt. Wow, that made a huge difference. Before, when I spun it, it would stop about half a second after I took my hand off. Now, it will stay spinning for a good 5 seconds. Just for reference, I used some 3-in-one oil. I think it's some generic CVS stuff that we've had in the closet for years. I didn't really want to use it on the bearing, but after seeing the insides of it, I couldn't just put it back on my truck like that.

for a beater car and an old leaf blower, that's actually a cool idea.

Thanks for the advice. You were right. There's a bolt right there. I was able to get to it. ...so, I not only got to the bolt, but I took it completely out and no change. This is actually starting to get my pretty angry. I took the long 14mm bolt out as well as a shorter 14mm bolt that bolts to the block. Nothing changed whatsoever.

35Amps? An our alternators only produce 70amps? Or am I getting the units of measurement wrong on this?