1994SEV6

all the plugs are properly hooked into a harness. This harness ends up as 4 wires and connects into my engine bay. This is the same setup was the auto trans. The only difference is the power wires for the auto trans and anything else. The neutral safety switch controls reverse? I just soldered the wires together. I thought it just controlled power to the starter

on the side of my trans I have about 5 plugs. One towards the back for the speed sensor I assume, one for the 4x4 indicator, one for reverse, one for neutral, and....I think that's it? I should mention that my speedometer works fine, but I don't have reverse lights or 4x4 indicator. Is this a simple unplugged wire, or something a little more complicated?

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31579&st=20 There's a prize on page 2.

When I removed my auto trans shifter, there were at least two wires connecting to it. Correct me, but I assume one is for the shift lock, and one is for the reverse lights? The 1st wire comes up from the front driver's side carpet. I assume this is the shift lock because the shift lock mechanism is right under the fusebox. Am I right? This 2nd wire comes up from the carpet around the rear of my center console. Would this wire be for the reverse lights? I need to finally get my reverse lights working. I know the bulbs work, wiring to the lights work, and the P.O. said the transmission lit up the reverse lights fine. What did I miss doing when swapping from A/T to M/T? If I'm right, and this wire is for the reverse lights, how the heck do I hook it up?

Mine has a good bit of play. When I go over bumps it wobbles and flails around a little bit. Not too bad, I just have to lightly grip. It's not dangerous or anything. If I'm still, I can move the steering wheel a few inches before the wheels move. When I had the truck jacked up, I could move the wheels manually a little bit before the steering wheel locked. Some guy at some shop I went too said one of my tie rod ends was blown. It's still straight as could be, and it doesn't have any play in it. Eh. I was planning on replacing most of my front end components in the spring anyway.

it's so simple. I love it. Is there some tool around made for this? I don't think I can go around ruining 19mm sockets. I might have a cheapo set somewhere, but I'm not sure. Hmm...I know for sure that I connect that type of socket to my trans wiring harness, but that might have been the sensor that I had to solder a wire back on to. O'Reilly wont tell me the price because there isn't on near me, how much does one cost just for my info.

this is what I was thinking. So, it's a button sort of like the brake pedal button? On/off? When I was looking in my trans from the shifter hole, I saw kind of a slant or groove where the shifter would move the gate. There was a button in the middle of the groove. Hmm, but I guess that would have been for neutral? So if I'm thinking right, there is a similar switch, but for reverse somewhere else?

yes. greasing the shaft often helps with grinding.

OHHHHHHHHHHHH is this why I don't have reverse lights? I just soldered my park-neutral switch together for my trans swap. I haven't had reverse lights since. I always thought it was a wire in my auto trans shifter that I didn't reconnect. meh...it seems as if my center console is never going back in. oh by the way, how hard is it to replace a front fender/quarter panel? I tried to teach my friend how to drive stick and he promptly kissed someone's hand rail for their front stairs.

Don't just trust what was "Standard equipment". Despite my truck being an SE model, I don't have power windows or power locks, but apparently, it was standard equipment and EVERY other SE hardbody does have p/w and p/l. And yet, I have power mirrors, sunroof, sliding rear window, bed liner, and A/C. You would think power locks could have sneaked themselves in somehow. I'm pretty sure you could definitely get them without A/C. A/C was a very expensive option. I found this picture. A/C was almost $1000 extra. I'm sure a lot of people would have wanted to save $1000 on an already overpriced vehicle. Besides, you can STILL buy vehicles with manual locks and windows and without A/C today. Oh yeah, one last tidbit about this. You're pretty misinformed about Hardbodys. Most HBs were base models. As cheap as you could get. Pretty much, if it was a standard cab, it was sparse with options. Most Hardbodies didn't even have power steering, power brakes or cassette players, much less A/C. To get back on topic, you could definitely do it because all the Pathfinders are technically the same before options are put on, and Nissan did it, so you can do it. It just might be more work than it's worth. Also, keep in mind when you're scavenging the parts that it's going to be extremely easy to bend and break/puncture your pipes. Taking parts off of an old vehicle and putting them on yours might put too much stress on them and it might not work properly. It's worth a try though

I think a tensioner pulley would only really show wear if there was friction. My truck is 17 years old with original pulleys, and most of them look like a dull grey. If there was wear, they would be bright silver

That's a really nice job. and a great idea. I need to re-do my harness anyway

This actually isn't that hard. Unless you run into a broken tensioner or some other snag, this is actually very easy to do. It might take you 45 minutes to get the belts off and take a look. What? that makes no sense. None of the belts regularly see day light. The timing belt is no different than the aux. belts. And it's not really sealed away, it's just behind a metal plate. wait what? Every 4 years, but 105k miles?

why are they ALWAYS like that?!?! I don't even understand how someone can just randomly tape wires off and shove them somewhere like that. You would think it would actually be easier to do it properly based on the level of failure. Mine is the same way. What a headache.

I'm a bit confused by that harness. First of all, those are colors are never colors I've seen on wires/plugs, much less for audio. And I am very experienced in electronics. Second, the green and purple plugs have black wires coming from them, but the 4-pronged plug has green and wires coming out of it...that doesn't add up. So, ignoring the color of plugs, what are those multi-pronged plugs doing there? You wouldn't want to use those kind of plugs to transfer high-quality audio. And it doesn't look like those plugs are for power. I can get a picture of my stereo harness if you want.

Bottle jacks are good, for the reasons you pointed out, but they can be unsafe. I definitely agree that they can achieve good lift while being lighter, cheaper, and MUCH stronger (some bottle jacks are capable of 20tons! at $100). The problem is, they have a small base. If the surface you are using isn't perfectly flat and level, it can get sketchy. Even a pebble or chunk of asphalt can make it wobbly. Now, of course, this doesn't really matter if you are putting your vehicle on jackstands, but if you don't carry jackstands around with you when you are driving, it might be dangerous to change a tire with a bottle jack. I'm just saying this because I think it's an important aspect when buying a jack. But of course, I had an extremely hard time finding a floor jack that had enough range to even touch my frame, much less lift the vehicle. edit: the roller type bottle jack probably doesn't suffer from this. Hmm, I've never actually seen or heard of a roller bottle jack. That would be a good investment.

ok. Now I can see it. Yeah, that's definitely a broken motor mount. That's a lot of movement! I've never replaced a motor mount on a 2wd vehicle, or replaced a motor mount at all for that matter, but it should be easier on 2wd. You don't have a front differential or any of those related parts in the front to get in your way and make everything fun and stupidly hard.

I'm getting a "video not found or access denied" error.

That's a really good point actually, Thanks. It's so obvious but I didn't even think of it.

The wheel bases are oh, so slightly different. I think the difference between the short bed and regular bed is something like an inch or two. JUST enough for the beds to not be compatible with each other. I question the legitimacy of this picture, but I think it's a good representation.

so...I finally got my P/S belt off. I took off the tensioner bolt thingy and my pump started to move a little bit. "oh @!*%! My p/s pump is moving! I think I broke something. oh no. I think I broke it.. oh wait, that's what's supposed to happen" Took off the belt, and no change in the tapping. We all knew that though. I guess the next step is to take off the water pump/alternator belt. I must admit, I'm a little scared to do that one. What's the longest I should have the engine on with the water pump not running?

You said a 1996 Pathfinder? Unfortunately, the parts that transfer over are a bit limited. The early Xterras and Frontiers are much more compatible with the WD21s than R50s.

Take that. Multiply it by 50. And you have my stereo harness. Cleaned it up real good again today. I washed it off 3 days ago, but that didn't seem to do anything..As soon as it dried all the splash marks and mud were right where they were before. I guess I didn't scrub hard enough

I didn't even get the reference until I read your comment and thought about it for a second. At first, I thought you found a Wd21 with 56k miles. Anyway, that's a good chain of events for you. Seeing how easily that spoiler bolted on was pretty cool.