1994SEV6

Can't get Ethanol-Free gas in dense population areas since ethanol "reduces" dirty exhuast (and gas mileage). Quoted that from another forum. Hey Town, nice link. Apparently, Southern US is flooded with them, the rust belt has a bunch, and OR and WA have plenty. Canada is screwed though. No Ethanol-free gas station within 70 miles of me. I guess my Nissan is doomed to crappy gas.

You said a 1996 Pathfinder? Unfortunately, the parts that transfer over are a bit limited. The early Xterras and Frontiers are much more compatible with the WD21s than R50s.

Take that. Multiply it by 50. And you have my stereo harness. Cleaned it up real good again today. I washed it off 3 days ago, but that didn't seem to do anything..As soon as it dried all the splash marks and mud were right where they were before. I guess I didn't scrub hard enough

I didn't even get the reference until I read your comment and thought about it for a second. At first, I thought you found a Wd21 with 56k miles. Anyway, that's a good chain of events for you. Seeing how easily that spoiler bolted on was pretty cool.

I didn't make any indication of that. In fact, I even gave an example of me using my knife/multitool to cut wire.

good head indeed

Maryland is unfriendly to everything. I just have my phone, wallet, and keys. I know knives can be helpful in some situations, but why does everyone always have a knife? Just curious. I've only been in one situation where it was like "I NEED A KNIFE!!!" and I happened to have my Leatherman. Some old lady's grocery basket cart lost its wheel. I put it back on for her, but she lost the cotter pin. I took out my handy-dandy leatherman and clipped a piece of fraying telephone pole wire and used it. I saved the day.

I think the next step is to find out what gear ratio your front is.

Just out of complete curiosity, how the hell did he manage to do that?

I don't appreciate you saying that. I've learned a lot from Tungsten and his guides. Pretty much the dispute here is to mill the heads or to not mill the heads. We have one person saying that you should not do this and Mr. 510's advice is to not do this. We have another person saying that this is a feasible method of increasing compression and that Mr. 510 will concur. This seems to be a stalemate until Mr. 510 steps in and says his own personal/professional opinion or another qualified person does. So let's leave it at that.

so.....check the codes?

I think you are misunderstanding. He thinks he needs a Dana 44 rear to match the Dana 44 front. He thinks that a dana 44 front and Nissan rear are incompatible due to the gear ratios. So he's asking where he can get a matching Dana 44 rear and how hard it would be to install.

I did the same thing, and I feel the same way. I took mine off and cleaned a whole bunch of dirt and grime out of there. I greased it back up and it seemed to be smoother, but I doubt it really did anything at high speeds.

didn't you repack your idler pulley recently?

You blew a fuse. Dash cluster lights and tail lights are on the same fuse. The fuse is labeled "tail light" Actually it sounds like all your problems are due to faulty connections. I don't think speedo cables (pre 94) can 'go bad'. Something may have come loose, or your speed sensor may have gone bad. Intermittent brake light problems is probably a loose wire or something

Oil capacity is 3 and 5/8 qt. with oil filter change for 4x4 truck. That's what you need to put in.

You seem surprised that Z24s have carbs? Of course they do. I'm selling some car parts and some guy called me to buy a carb for his Z24, he was telling me the EXACT same thing you typed. Just curious, why did you have to replace your valves? Maybe in a heavy Pathy, but these engines aren't really known for "feeling" weak. Short of extreme measures such as a turbo or blower, you won't get very much additional power. You can do the go-to mods like performance exhaust, synthetic fluids all around, cold air intake. On an engine with 106hp from the factory, you won't really be getting any huge gains.

Huh...interesting. I guess there's always something with Nissan. Always some variant or something. Sorry I didn't have what you needed to see. Dowser, you quoted a person who said "the unit that routes the cable under the carpet". Isn't that the handbrake in the middle of the center console? If so, isn't that what Pathys have? Finding a 2wd version around where I live will be so easy. They are a dime a dozen. Hey! In my apartment complex, there's 3 of them. One of them is a rust bucket with collapsed torsion bars and holes in the body as big as my fist. I wonder if he needs his parking brake...hmmm..

Thanks for the advice. I'll reset my ECU screw and check out my throttle body. I guess I just take the rubber tube off and manually move the cable? With the engine off of course. "double/triple check my mechanical and ignition timing"? Boy, I guess I should single-check it first. I haven't touched a single thing on my engine...ever. Changed oil, messed with my idler pulley once, took my air box out and that's all I've ever done to my engine. ouuu. Lots of good ideas here. Thanks. Yeah...I have personally never flushed the coolant and replaced it. Actually, I take that back. I stupidly removed the upper rad hose and lost a bunch of coolant. When I topped it off, it took a gallon. I know it's not the same, but it's better than nothing. Flushing the cooling system was at the top of my list. I guess I'll be doing that sooner than I thought. Of course... I know high idle at startup is normal. Of course. That's like "Duh Engines for Dummies 101". The engine has to idle higher to reach operating temperatures. I did use some Seafoam a while back. I put it in the gas tank and the crank case. I was a bit scared to do it through the vacuum hose, but I guess I'll be doing that. I don't think 800-900 RPM idle at proper operating temp. is normal. Mine used to be around 500rpm in the summer. I guess "in the summer" is the operative phrase. My dad's truck idles precisely at 500rpm all day. It's not a Nissan, but I've taken note of gauges and things on cars since I was a little kid. I'm probably remembering wrong, but when I see the idle floating at 900, it just feels...wrong. Some good words. I'll definitely be using this procedure. As I said earlier, I was a bit scared about using it through the vacuum lines because the last thing I would want to do is hydrolock my engine. I'm also a bit scared of the white smoke. I don't know if the cops will have a problem with that or what. I'll check again. All I did was remove the airbox, carbon canister, and wiper fluid reservoir (don't ask why) when I did the trans swap. I didn't touch the engine at all. I didn't mess with any sensors or wires. The only wires I touched were the 02 sensor and I took out the A/T power wires. It could still be something I suppose. How do I go about buying vacuum hoses by the way? Does Nissan have a kit or something? ^^^^^^^LOL. NVM I can't believe I just typed that part about the vacuum hoses. I'll leave it for your own laughs. Sorry for the lengthy response. I wanted to respond to each one of you individually because they all have good advice. Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it.

Damn man..just when it was going to be ok. You finally had your own vehicle and things were going good for the most part. What's ironic is, that's probably the least dangerous thing you have ever done in that Pathy and THIS is what fskcs you over. Not the street racing, not the drifting, you trying to get out of a bad/dangerous situation is what fskced you up. That's some bull@!*%. I know how you feel. Wrecked car, ticket, and insurance too. Today I put some tape around the pass. side sunroof hook. The sunroof keeps ratting around at 2.4k RPM. Annoying as hell.

Every since I did my trans swap, my idle was been high. I haven't been able to get the idle below ~900rpm no matter what. It hasn't been too bad around here this winter, but the idle still jumps up to about 1800rpm when I start it up first in the morning. I would say that it has been a moist 35F in the mornings. I have also noticed that my idle will 'stick'. If I turn the key and do nothing else, it will stay at 1800 and eventually drop to 900. It takes about 5 mins. If I drive it while it's still high, sometimes when I push the clutch in, the idle will jump up to 2000 and stick there. If I give it some gas and let it go, it will drop down to 1800 but then just go back to 2000. My dad suggested it might be a sticky choke mechanism(don't take offence to this, he is used to working on old cars with carbs) So I adjusted the idle screw on the ECU. Somehow it has gotten up to 10% away from diagnostic mode. I turned it down to around the 40% area. It did nothing to change the idle. I just read a post from Sewebster saying his Pathy is the slowest out of his vehicles to warm up and he thinks it is because of a broken thermostat. I have been told that my thermostat is also faulty. This makes sense to me, but my heat is amazing and puts out fast. So, is my idle still high because it's in that loop mode where the ECU thinks it's still warming up?

Did I leave the stove on at home? doubt much

I guess that would be fluid from your t-case.

come on man. I linked you how to remove the trans pan in your other thread. There is no way to get the pan out without removing the exhaust. Not a huge deal, especially if your bolts aren't rusted. "I put a quart of lucas in. Is this lucas good stuffs?" Well....it's too late now, I suppose. Anyway, seems like you did 5x more good than you did bad. Just stay away from Lucas products in the future. Remember, there is no such thing as a miracle in a bottle. Edit: I re-read that thread that Town linked. Apparently, that guy removed the pan without removing the exhaust. That's an amazing feat. His picture shows that you have to remove some oil piping though. EEK. I was on the ground wrestling with my pan for an hour and there was no way that thing was coming out. I wasn't being gentle either since the trans was scrap.

Sure. I'll see if I can dissect your picture for you. I understand how you feel. It's best to be sure about things, especially with your vehicle.