1994SEV6

circumference my friend. Not diameter. I don't feel like calculating it, but the GPS on my phone says it's about 14% off.

What I'm even more skeptical about is the 36mpg in a Dodge Charger. Even now, Dodge only advertises 31mpg. We all know, the advertised rating is very skewed. Replaced my power steering pump tensioner and slammed my lip into my tow hook after rust fell in my eye. Pretty good night so far.

They were talking about trailers a bit earlier in the thread. I wasn't going to comment before, Personally, they really aren't even an option for me. They might be good for other people, such as yourself Bowtied, but not me. Here's how I see it the trailer. First of all, A halfway decent one like this is going to be $800+. Where I live anyway. The owner is personally asking $899. ~$1000 for a good trailer is no big deal, if you're going to use it. An extra $1000 for something that has a flat tire and sits in your driveway for years at a time is not practical. Second, they severely alter drive-ability. You have to drive slower, be more cautious, and turn differently. Being more cautious isn't a bad thing, but paying all your attention to the trailer distracts you a little bit from the vehicle. I'm sure you can, but you shouldn't go above 45-55mph while towing a trailer (says U-HAUL). I don't know about you, but 50mph on the highway isn't great. My "local" dump is 25 miles away on a MAJOR highway. If I went 50mph, I would be run over. Third, you have to have the vehicle for it. Toyota Camrys might come with trailer hitches, but...really? Pathfinders and Hardbody trucks came with trailer hitches and the wiring. Hell, even my truck has a hitch and wiring..somewhere. The engines are plenty strong for towing, the transmissions are pretty good. These vehicles can handle a decent amount of weight. Some drywall would be fine. You could get away with some landscaping equipment. Last...Just hooking the trailer up when it's loaded. I rented one with my dad's friend once. Slipping the female hitch onto the trailer hitch was a game of "left, right, ohh too far back, ok ok press the gas pedal down 2% and go forward 1/2 inch". Biggest pain in the neck. When it's empty no big deal. When you have a ton of brush, you need a team of 3 guys and a bottle jack. A trailer just doesn't compare to a solid pick-up with a bed. It's just a trade off. Your preference. With all that being said, trailers definitely have their advantages. I'm not hating on them, I'm just saying that it's really not a reasonable permanent substitute. I had a huge landscaping job that included mulching, severe tree trimming, and laying a gravel driveway. The trailer was a life saver. We were using a 2004 Tahoe with one of the big v8s so we got some work done. It was invaluable for loading up 70, 80, 90 full sized tree branches, hauling 50 bags of mulch, and buying 1/2 ton of riverjack from the local quarry. My Hardbody just couldn't have done it.

So....I took that nut off of the tensioner. I loosened it, and it came right off. I pulled the tensioner thing off, and nothing. Absolutely nothing happened. It's like that tensioner had zero effect on anything. My P/S pump didn't budge and my belt is still as tight as ever Can someone send me a picture of their set up? I'm trying to figure out the concept of this tensioner, but I'm not sure if I have it right. I have no idea what it's supposed to look like so I'm guessing. I have a feeling my power steering pump has only been tensioned these last 6 months by sheer friction alone.

LOL true. When I hit curbs, I just take chunks of sidewall out as big as my fist. I swear, that sewer drain jumped out on me.

your posts get more amusing by the day. Congrats on the win though. That's all that matters. You gotta do what you gotta do. Did I tell you when I was racing that Yaris that my friend couldn't stop in time and got airborne (all 4 wheels) over a curb but then the last wheel got snagged? It was quite a sight. That bent rim of his is going to be a dream. BUT he won. You can't be afraid of breaking yo @!*% if you wanna win.

I thought Mazda was discontinuing the rotary engine?

Sorry, I misread the part.

I think you need to combine yours and tmoore4512's thread here and find an average. Then both of your problems will be solved.

grounds for the heat shields? That's interesting. What's the purpose of that? Heat shields don't have current...do they? My thermostat is stuck? I just replace it, or there some sort of blockage/obstruction? I didn't even think of using the adobe feature LOL. I was trying to use ctrl+shift+arrow keys like in windows XP, but it doesn't work on Windows 7. You should have seen me trying to hold my monitor 90degrees and not have it slip

Just tried looking at the FSM. I can't rotate my screen. My neck now hurts soo much and I have a headache from trying to figure the wiring harness out. I eventually got smart and physically rotated my monitor...bigger headache because now I could properly see what was going on the bolt tensioner thing. This is one from a donor truck. The head of the bolt on mine broke off. My question is if I can take off the nut that secures the shorter bolt zoomed in in context Me trying to show you how it's broken off Oh yeah, forgot to add: My question with the bolt/tensioner is, is it safe to unbolt that nut that I zoomed in on? The purpose of the long bolt is to release tension slowly. If I unbolt the nut, will there be a violent reaction? Could I do this safely somehow?

I've noticed that I have 2 grounds that aren't connected to anything. This is a little troublesome because they obviously have a purpose. What's even more troublesome is that I haven't noticed anything not working or not working properly, and it could be something severe that is going unnoticed. Here are some pictures. This first one is near the P/S pump reservoir and the fuel filter. You can see the oil filler cap in the picture. This is a compete ground wire (not broken off or frayed like my other one). I can't tell where it goes. The other end is secured to the body right under the fuel filter bracket. Sorry it's a little blurry, but my finger is pointing to where it connects to the body. Here is my other ground. This one is broken and doesn't have a connector. I have looked and looked several times, from the top, from the bottom under the engine, from the bottom from the wheelwell, I just can't see where it broke off from. I would think it would be the alternator by I didn't see the other broken piece. I could have sworn I took a picture of where it connected, but I can't find it. It is connected to the driver's side wheelwell Another thing. I went to a junkyard last week. I actually went to about 3. To get home, I had to drive about 50 miles on the highway. No big deal. I put it in 5th gear and flew. My speedometer (with 30in tires when I'm supposed to have 31s) said I was going 90mph at ~3.8k RPM. I think I was actually going about 75mph, but the engine is still doing the same work as it would if I was actually going 90mph with regular tires (not accounting for extra air resistance just RPMs). That's how that works, right? Anyway, I was going that speed for a solid 20mins. When I got off the highway, I was at a red light and noticed my temp gauge. It seemed very low for the engine doing that much work My temp gauge does move up and down, but never above that point. When the engine is cold, the temp gauge will rest on the peg and it will slowly rise, but never above ~1/5. Actually, one time I lost some coolant when I took a hose off and didn't think I lost as much as I did. I was running low on coolant and the temp gauge was to the roof. My fuel gauge works properly (unfortunately), my tach works flawlessly, my speedo works great. Is my temp gauge faulty? Let me go take some more pictures of the tensioner. The ones I have now are bad.

I think this is really plausible. Those switches are really important. If you take your hazard switch out, you don't have blinkers. Your blinkers just wont work. The switch completes the circuit which I think is good and bad. There have been a good number of times I've been waiting to get onto a main road and I didn't even realize I didn't have working blinkers because I had taken my dash apart the night before. He said he replaced it though. You said "new in box", was it a Nissan part?

I would venture a guess that your lack of oil flow is due to more filtering taking place. It's the same thing as an air filter. The more it filters, the less air flow you get. Less crap getting into your engine...but less power for your engine. Today I put anther $15 into the tank. This is the 3rd day in a row. I'm not even driving it that much

LOL. where did that come from? an oil tanker?

Are you asking about these? I had to google this. So you want to weld a huge plate to protect your rear differential? So far, I think that's a unique idea. I don't think I've heard of it before. How will you bolt it up? If you bolt it to the frame, it would have to be large. You might find a way to secure it to the axle? If you bolt it to the frame, then I think it would hinder the axle movement. If you need the guard, then I would assume you are going off roading. If you're going off-roading, I would assume you would want your rear axle to have as much movement and flex as needed. I think this says it better than I do.

First of all.... you might be dead. Can humans survive in -49C? I just calculated it, that's -56.2F. That's cold. Instead of driving, I think it's best if you went inside and burned your possessions for all of the warmth they can provide. Meanwhile.. 60F in Maryland!! When it should be 20 I'm more amazed at cars and engines and mechanics and their robustness everyday. At some point, you would think that running a car wouldn't be possible. did you have to heat up your gas tank? I doubt it's related, but I'm just curious. Does your gas tank freeze? I know gasoline doesn't start freezing until -100, but there are other things in your tank. On to your problem. Your turn signals? It may sound stupid, but the first thing I thought of were frozen terminals. Or a little bit of condensation in/around the wires, terminals, or bulbs that froze. The smoothness of the engine dying sounds kinda like a spark problem. If it was a fuel problem, it would sputter and chug. the only thing I can think of that would make it die suddenly and smoothly is complete lack of spark. And possibly stalling it.

Something just came to mind. If there's play in the rocker arms and the shafts, then why doesn't it get worse? I assume that the tapping is due to the metal hitting metal. Over time, wouldn't shavings accumulate and create more play? That noise sounds really close to mind, but it hasn't gotten any worse over 5000 miles.

ohhh!!! that makes so much more sense. eek. It's looking pretty beat up. I was just going to leave it since I thought it was a trans cooler. Might wanna replace it now. Hmmm in that case, having an aftermarket trans cooler might get sticky. Trans cooler in front of A/C condenser in front of radiator.

Lol. It's ebay. I don't think they even know what the thing does but they're selling it. LOLOL. I'm in stitches after that one I put a 50shot of NOS on my Husqvarna blower! FACT I'm sorry guys, but this was the funniest one. I was on the floor laughing and I thought it was over. Then I read the links this guy supplied. Funniest stuff. Good job. "running too lean? Look at these pictures. This one too" LOL

So I stumbled upon the best thing ever on ebay. I just ordered it. I can't wait for the instant horsepower and torque gains!! This is gonna blow 153hp away. I'm gonna be loving the 250 horses I'm gonna have. 30mpg too!! Oh, the benefits. This is the real deal. Don't doubt. ONLY $45???!! It's fool proof Electric supercharger. Get it NOW!! Don't miss out on this awesomeness

what...wutttt. Is that a bike rack that fits over the spare? You should be taking advantage of that roof bin!!

I know they aren't like trying to use a Ford Probe trans in a Nissan Titan or something. Nothing extreme like that. But I did think they were more different than the bell housings. When I made my transmission thread I specifically asked if I could use an R50 trans and the answer was a firm no. Really? A tube? That's weird. My truck actually has a 2nd radiator. I know it's not it's not a radiator, but I thought it was until I looked more closely. Are you saying the stock on WD21s an R50s is just a straight tube? They do have some oddballs sometimes. Q45..cough cough.

This seems this is a fairly common situation with these transmissions. It's not normal activity by any means, but I think I've heard this exact same scenario about 4 other times and I've only been a member for a few months. Because R50s got the VQ about 3 years before the frontier and Xterra, the R50 trans is pretty unique to itself. The trans in the R50 is different, so if you do have to replace it, those aren't candidates. Common advice is to check your trans cooler. It might be iced over or obstructed somehow

How did I misunderstand the theory when you just restated what I said? You said it in different words, which I appreciate, but you didn't correct what I was "wrong" about. Of course. I didn't mean to imply something like "if you lift it one inch then your MPGs will go from 20 to 10!!! or your payload will be cut in half" I would love for you to explain that. I would love for you to explain that. o rly? How about this: cup your hand. Put it in front of your mouth. Blow as hard as you can in front of your mouth. Put your other hand under your first hand. As you blow, feel the air that is blown down. Compared to the force of the air that your mouth blows, the air that is blown down is relatively nothing. Ok. Now pretend you had a third hand and pretend to put your third hand under your first hand to redirect the SECONDARY air flow again in a different direction. Take your second hand and feel how much air is being pushed. Yeah. Pretty much none. Now, let's make an analogy. If you hold a plastic bag out of the window of your car while going down the highway, the bag is going to fill with air. This is representative of the stock air flow captured behind the headlight. Then, pretend that you taped the mouth of the bag around some PVC pipe and it bends 90 degrees up, then 90 degrees straight again. Try to fill that bag with air. So, let me get this straight... I said that the direct air flow was better. You said that was wrong. So then you 'corrected' me and said that the indirect airflow was better? Interesting.