1994SEV6

I actually called for something else than I got wrapped up in the gear oil. No big deal. You have definitely done a great job of making sure I got the right stuff

yes. it does not work at all. Has not worked in the last 7 months of my ownership. I have that cluster that has a digital device on each bottom corner. Trip odometer on the left, and my clock on the right. I understand that it was specific to SE Pathys and some SE HBs. I was desperately looking for a replacement. I wanted to replace the odometer unit first rather than the cluster. My cluster works perfectly. Speedo works, tach works flawlessly, gas gauge [unfortunately] works properly, and I think my temp gauge even works as it should. The only thing that doesn't work is the digital trip odometer. I've taken my cluster out countless times and inspected the circuitry on the back. Everything looks good. I've inspected the screws and connections. No flaws to be seen. I've even taken apart the little unit and didn't see anything bad going on. A blown microbulb was a little hope for me.

Glad to have helped. I thought I might have been getting off-topic, but if it helped you, then that's great. CV axles and wheel bearings are some pretty common things. In fact, since my truck was inspected 6 months ago, my OTHER CV axle and my OTHER caliper need replacing. These are both probably stock. I have no problem with stock axles and calipers lasting 130k miles. I just wish it happened in the spring. If you're into DIY, I do believe that there are threads on here for how to do just about anything in the front end. I know that I found a write up on the CV axle, wheel bearings, and sway bar bushings right after I just paid to have those things replaced.

I bought 3qts. of Mobil 1 75w-90 gear oil. I put two quarts into my t-case. I started to put the 3rd quart in, and I was paying attention for some to dribble out, but it never did. I ended up putting ~2.4qts in the T-case. I guess the t-case is different that the 2.2qt. mark ISN'T when it overflows? I also topped off my front diff with the other .6qt. Just to triple check the compatibility of gl-5 in my t-case, I called Mobil 1. I saw the "call us for questions or..." on the back and I gave them a ring. I got on the phone with a technician who told me that Mobil 1's gear oil is not gl-4 friendly. He mentioned something about ATF and then I said "the FSM says to use gear oil OR ATF". He thought this idea was ludicrous. "If your owner's manual is telling you to put whatever you want in your t-case, I would be suspicious. Gear oil and ATF have completely different viscosities and lubricating properties, not to mention color and smell." I then called a dealer who laughed at my idea of putting gear oil in the t-case. I put it in anyway. I trust the people on here. The worst I'll have to do is drain 2qts. out of my t-case that I barely even use. On a more positive note, I got my scary whining to go away.

I would venture that you MIGHT have an exhaust leak. Don't go replacing any sensors just yet. The knock sensor is easily set off by wondering vibrations. It is very sensitive. It's probably working just fine, especially if there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with your truck. I've never heard of an "exhaust gas temperature sensor". That might be another term for O2 sensor? If it is, indeed, an O2 sensor, then your leaking exhaust is probably giving it false readings. The reason I mentioned leaky exhaust is because you might have some broken manifold studs. The tapping of the studs (most evident around 2000rpm) could quite possibly affect the knock sensor. These broken manifold studs would also affect the O2 sensor.

hey thanks a lot for the ideas. Luckily, it wasn't anything to do with brakes or anything like that. I wouldn't want to mess with that. It wasn't anything you suggest, but I would have said the exact same thing you did if I wasn't too scared of it being the trans. I think you got it. Thanks a lot. It didn't sound like gears to me either. My dad said "hmm..sounds like it might be synchroes winding down" LOL, wut? Just FYI, the M/Ts in these trucks DO make a whistling noise due to being underfilled. I think I noticed you said you had an M/T. Better check that it's overfilled to 5.1l if you haven't already seen that. The noise sounded a little more fierce than actuality on the video. It wasn't anything mean or violent like metal-on-metal in the rear diff would be. To be honest, I thought it might be air being pushed through a small opening. I think it was the carrier bearing. I went outside. Took off the two bolts. Took off the two brackets. Held the driveshaft and spun the bearing 5-10 times. It seemed good. I put it all back together to get it out of the way and finish my t-case project. I took it for a drive and the noise was gone!! I don't even know what happened. Maybe the bolts were under-torqued? I made sure to get them real tight.

thanks for the bad news

This didn't personally work for me. Personally, with ANY contorting of the seat, I don't see any way possible to bend one's wrist 130+ degrees and mess with the ecu. I cut myself up really bad trying to get to that damn ECU. Just get a 12mm socket and take the seat out. It takes all of 3 mins. Hell, you'll probably find some lost quarters and make profit. I would bet on the egg smell being a nasty cat. This is a point of maintenance that is often overlooked. Unless you know a few nifty tricks, the cat is hard to check without removing half your exhaust system. I was in an SUV about a year ago when I smelled some nasty stuff. The driver mumbled something about the catalytic converter but I didn't know anything about cars back then so I just opened the window. Start by checking your cat. I think I heard that these trucks (or most cats in general) are supposed to have a 100F difference between the inlet and outlet of the cat. I bought a digital infrared thermometer off Amazon.com for like $11. It works pretty well I guess.

aww man! Just when you had everything done, too. Sorry to hear about the door. My advice is to just get a new one. From my experience, I think it's one of those things that will never be perfect again. Like when you take a paperclip and bend it into a certain shape, no matter how hard you try, you will never be able to fold it back perfectly into a paper clip. I don't know if you damaged the hinges on the door, or the mounts or the body of the door, but if bent metal, then just replace it. Then again, you were probably only going like 5mph. That timing belt situation is suspect. I don't know anything that could cut it lengthwise. I don't think a timing belt cover blocks much except miscellaneous debris. If the timing belt was only 200 miles old, then maybe something was installed in such a way that a sharp edge was cutting slowly into the timing belt? As for the damage, if the belt slipped off or actually snapped and the cams were running freely, then you probably do have some damage. I think you have to remove the head and check the valves individually to be 100% sure.

did you guys want some pictures by the way? I know I'm nothing special just because I have a d21, but I could get some good pics if you need.

could this be why my digital trip odometer isn't working? or is that a different method?

That sounds really plausible. How do I check it? I'm out here under my truck. I took the two bolts off. I took the two bracket things off. It has the tiniest about of play if I shift it front to back. Absolutely zero play up and down or side to side. I can't spin it fast enough with my hand to determine if it's the culprit. Is there maintenance for these bearings? Is it just acting out for some greasy attention? It seems like a $20 part, but it looks like it's kinda part of the drive shaft. Can they be easily replaced?

yes. my Nissan hardbody. ext. cab. Carrier bearing..that's a good idea. I know I had to take that off when I did my trans swap. I randomly checked it the other day when I was working on my truck. let me make a video of it. maybe it's loose and I didn't notice or maybe someone will notice something I didn't notice. Sorry, I didn't realize that the drive shafts were different on d21s?

obviously a 2 door pathy with the rear cargo area cut out. It would be nice to see if they closed up the rear or if they left it open. Nissan: the original makers of the Chevy Avalanche.

2wd always. Ok. that sounds like it might be a reasonable idea. Is that realistically safe? On my bike, if I pedal the rear wheel, it creates centrigufal force that vibrates everything. That's not even going fast. If I jack it up and get the wheels up to ~40mph, is it going to stay on the jack stands? Might it create insane vibrations and forces because the road isn't there to absorb them?

I think my local dealer is $105/hour and the local shops (at least the one I went to) are ~$60. Some "Far East motors" specialty shop wanted $120/hour just for diagnosis of problems. After the problem was diagnosed, fixing said problem was $140. lol. nty.

I don't think I know that question specifically, but nothing changes it. It does it in neutral. And one time I was coasting with the shifter in 4th and the pedal all the way to the floor and it still made the noise. I think that's what you want to know. But I wasn't in N with the clutch depressed.

I don' understand how they make their money off marking up prices when they charge $95/hour.... I know what you mean though. Initially, to get it through inspection, I needed to replace two wheel studs and 2 lug nuts. Shop #1 wanted $20 for the wheel studs and $20 for the lug nuts. For the most part, I just let them BS me with prices and blah blah. I questioned them on this. The guy nearly killed me in defense. "We get quality parts from NAPA!! NOT THAT ADVANCE AUTO PARTS CRAP!!!!". So then I drove to Napa and got my 2 wheel studs and 2 lug nuts for under $7. This shop that I took it to was so busy they didn't even have the time or the will to mark prices up. Before he took my knuckle apart, I thought I might need new wheel bearings. He wrote me up a price for parts. I went to Advance Auto parts and the price he wrote me was like $5 more than AAP. But anyway. sorry for getting off-topic from the OP.

can someone listen to my whining please? I got videos and everything. Get cheese.

As with any shop or auto repair, the prices and times will greatly vary. Some shops may be very busy and won't even start working on your car for hours. Other shops may be waiting for the next customer and might have you done within the hour. Those factors depend on things like the price, quality of work, and the customer service. Labor rates can also vary seemingly randomly. I would agree and say that the bulk of the cost is the windshield. Professionals know how to install a windshield properly and efficiently. This shouldn't take more than 30-45 mins like said above. I had a similar experience. I needed: re-packed wheel bearings on both front wheels New CV axle Shops quoted me: #1 $587 parts + labor. 2 days wait time #2 $719 parts +labor. 6 hours wait time #3 $250 for labor of axle, bearings, AND a discovered leaking caliper. Had it done 4 hours later. I bought the parts for $116 and had it done at shop #3. The first two shops charged $95/hour, while the third shop was $60. #3 was by far the busiest, most friendly, and most convincing shop. They were, of course, independently owned and operated. A windshield for a wd21 may be more expensive than the average one because it is older, and, therefore, less common and harder to get. Prices of $200-$500 sound a bit extreme to me. Last time I dealt with windshields, my dad got his windshield replaced for $170 and they even came to his house to do it. You were asking about price vs. quality vs. time. With my experience, I trusted the small, cheaper, quicker independent shop much more with my vehicle. They had cars lined up waiting around the block for quality service, the owner personally talked to me, and they gave me my old parts back. I can't wait to get something else fixed by them.

My truck seems to have developed a high pitched whistling at ~highway speeds. This isn't the whistling noise from the M/T in any gear but 4th. I know what that is, and this is different. If I just heard the noise by itself, I would think it was a spaceshuttle or a generator powering down. This morning, I was going about 70mph when I noticed it. I didn't have the radio on, the heat was off, I put it in Neutral, and I heard this really high whine. As a slowed down, it got slightly deeper and deeper until it disappeared around 15mph. If I listen carefully, I can hear it "power up" through the gears. This just started happening today. Since yesterday I: Filled my trans up with 5qts of Redline Mt90. This was the first time I drove it since I filled it up. And I put my shift boot on properly. I put the big silver metal plate on, and the black rubber thing and the shift boot. I bolted them down. I was thinking that the air flow through the boot might be getting pushed through a small opening and causing the whistling? This is just me hoping for it to be something simple. I made some videos but I'm not sure if the camera picked up the sounds. Oh yeah. I tried to listen for the location, but I kept getting confused. I could have SWORN it was coming from the rear, but then I convinced myself that it was coming from the front left So it got louder. I'm pretty mad. I made a good video this time. I move the microphone from the floor to my mouth to say my speed. It's actually really loud. It completely follows the speed of the rear end. It doesn't match my RPMs, gear, or anything else. Caution: it's loud. Turn down your speakers. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwD6gTUEKN4

My 94 Hardbody is coming up on 130k miles.

By a 12v socket, you mean a power outlet? That's the best idea. I need another one too. It's not so much that I need two, but the one right next to the heater controls is the WORST place ever. I bought a dual USB plug thing for $3 off Amazon (which has worked amazingly), and the only thing I use it for are to charge phones and ipods. The cords dangle right over my shifters. That and when I go to change the radio, the cords and the plug are in the way. I wouldn't call it a bad design, but it sure sucks. I suppose I could easily relocate the whole socket, but then I would have a hole where the socket was. What could I put in that hole? I'm not trying to convince you, but an aftermarket radio, a really decent one, with an AUX jack will run you like $45. Luckily, my truck came with one. Unluckily, I've managed to blow half my speakers. Nefarious, I like to tinker a lot. Most of the time I take stuff off that I have no business messing with. I think Adamzan had a tiny pinhole in his gas tank, therefore he was smelling gas. His problem sounded exactly like mine. For the hell of it I wanted to pop off the skid plate and see if there was any residue or anything. I only used brake cleaner on the skid plate. My gas tank had this factory protectant type stuff. It almost looks like grime, but it's there on purpose. It's sprayed randomly on my truck. Half the frame has this stuff, the other half has paint, half of my bed has it, my front wheelwells have it, and I think half of the bottom of my cab has it. Some guy parked next to me and took an interest in what I was doing with my trans. He handed my a brand new bottle of brake cleaner and paper towels cause he was cool I guess. Then I needed it. My agenda today consisted of finally getting the last little bit of nasty old gear oil out and putting the new Redline in. Boy, that stuff is pretty slick. It almost looks clear/pink and has a funny smell. But then when I looked in my trans, it was dark dark red. I haven't noticed a significant change in my shifting, but I'm sure the fluid is for the better. I windex'd my windows. I feel bad for owning my truck for 7 months now and never have washed it.

so much repressed anger just came flaring up. this must be the most true thing in the world.