1994SEV6

The transmission itself isn't as big as you might think. If you took the transmission and transfer case apart, you would see that the transmission stops right after where the t-case lever is. The transfer case isn't only the thing on the side. The transfer case also includes the tail extension. The speed sensor is in the tail extension because that is the best place to measure the speed of the driveshaft. The M/T is a bit different, so I was remembering incorrectly before I edited my post. Here is a picture of an A/T for reference. It looks completely different out of the truck. The pan is off in this picture. I went back and labeled the drain plug for you since it sounds like you need to do a t-case service. The fill plug is on the backside. Getting the fill plug out is a little bit awkward since you have to use a few extensions and go above the torsion bar cross member.

Amen.

it might fling grease around. Jacked up my front end to remove both wheels. Used some brake cleaner to get 17 years worth of road crap off the inside of my rim. I know nobody will see it, but whatev. Then I cleaned the outside a little bit. Finally put my engine bay liner/guard on in my wheel well. Saw that a previous owner broke 4 of the 6 screws that hold my front rock guard on. They're good and rusted in there. yayyy Cleaned some of my windows with rubbing alcohol. Accidentally used the same napkin to clean my wheels, and it works a lot better than brake cleaner. It doesn't evaporate as fast. Also, put $30 in it this morning. Took me from the 1/8 mark waaaaaaayyyy up to the 1/2 mark

Why would a businessman need to know anything about metallurgy?

a BRAND NEW rocker and shaft set still had play in it? whatttt? How much did the parts cost you by the way? I have to eliminate other possibilities first (water pump, pulleys, etc), but I think I will have to end up replacing on my engine what you had to replace.

Yeah. I bet that combination of right metals would end up making a $15000 transmission. Rain doesn't count

Yeah, man. Come on. That's something I would say. I totally agree with everything Kingman said. Bigger= more powah. (I know this isn't always the case so don't quote me and blah blah). That CLSD is DEFINITELY what you want in the rear.

brembo is what you want.

Their website says Seattle, WA. Aren't like half of NPORA members in Washington?

Hey there. Welcome to the forums. It's good to have you. There are a lot of resources around here to be taken advantage of. They are all over. I have heard of issues with the dash cluster in general, but I don't think I've heard of problems with the speedo specifically. Maybe the cable came loose. Replacing your speedometer (if that is the problem) would probably be one of the easiest jobs on a Pathfinder. I can personally get my entire cluster out in about 5 mins and put a new one in in another 5 mins. You could do the same. If you wanted to keep your cluster, and only change speedos, then that might take an extra 15 mins because you have to be careful. I did some quick looking and I found some links for you Automatic transmission fluid change You definitely want to change your ATF fluid on a regular basis. I don't care what anyone says about keeping your old fluid in there. These Pathfinders need the fluid changed about once every 15k miles. Changing your A/T filter This isn't really that important because the A/T filter only catches big things. I guess that's necessary, but extremely unlikely. You want a small, in-line filter. I'm sure one of our members, Towncivilian, will come around and educate you on that. Auto trans temp gauge The A/Ts in these vehicles have a habit of overheating fast if the trans cooler gets clogged (a whole 'nother conversation). You might want to install a temp. gauge to keep an eye on the status of your trans. Lube specs Check this link out for the quantities of lube that your WD21 needs. Your differentials take 75w-90 Gl-5 fluid This is some good stuff. Google coupons for Advance Auto Parts, and you can save a lot. Your T-case takes ATF or gear oil apparently. I'm pretty confused, but I just put gear oil in mine. This is also on that lube specs page I linked. MAF cleaning.Here's a thread on how to clean your MAF sensor. This is just something quick and easy that will boost your MPGs and power to what they used to be and should be. There ya go. That should keep your occupied and out of our forums for a good while!! Come back soon

so any Nissan truck from 1986.5-199...when? When did they change it? 1994 when they updated everything? I'll see what I can find for you. This junkyard I went to about two weeks ago had 2 2-doors.

LOL.....Adamzan. That's funny, and ironic.

it's alright. I thought it was kinda funny anyway Actually, I did tighten it properly. Usually I don't even remember the pattern. Since the patterns are posted everywhere (owners manuals, jacks, stickers and tags everywhere) I actually did remember the proper 6 lug pattern. Even though it's a bit tedious to tighten one bolt a bit, then do the next, etc then come back and do it twice for final tightening, then do it again to double check, I did do it properly. That's a really good point actually. I was in front of my girlfriend's house about to drive away and all of the sudden I thought "that HAS to be my rim". I got out and checked. Just to get me home, I tightened all the lug nuts and stood on the lug wrench to get extra torque. Then I let the truck roll about 3 feet and did it again. I know I have to jack it up to do it properly. I guess that's what I'll be doing this weekend and I'll have to borrow my dad's torque wrench to make sure they aren't torqued unevenly like you said. Actually, I think we might have an impact gun somewhere. I'll also be replacing a wheel stud and lug nut too. woot..yay. As far as this thread goes, I didn't want to bother everyone during the week when I can't even work on my truck. I actually only have about an hour a day between my two events. It's just not enough time to change into dirty work clothes and snoop around my engine then get cleaned up and changed back. Besides, I use that time to eat large amounts of ham. Honey glazed spiral ham is 60% off at Shoppers. Sooooo good.

Let me get this straight.. So, it works if you DON'T use your steering? Interesting. Yeah. probably what happened. Lack of maintenance busted the first one up, then someone went to the JY and got a replacement. The same gunk just flowed through and hampered the 2nd one. This is EXACTLY what happened to my A/T. 48k miles on an A/T and it breaks? Good job cleaning the gunk out of the trans cooler, guys. Green PS fluid by VW? They do like to have their own fluids, don't they? Honestly, Tungsten, just go to the junkyard and find a replacement. I know it's probably a little uncommon to find one that will fit, but I think that's your best bet. It will cost you, what $20? $30? I'm not against rebuiling the one you have. Take yours off and keep it for rebuilding. Order the kit or whatever is involved and do it in your spare time. I think you said you couldn't even find a kit for now. You don't want to be held up from work or whatever you do because of a P/S pump.

I thought you just lost fluid? Just put the hose back on and make sure it's clamped down firmly...? That's a good course of action, isn't it? I had some fun in the morning rain. I didn't go fast, of course. That's just dangerous. especially around here. I had some fun with puddles and I didn't even slip the tires! I guess I'm getting better.

using this, that's like carrying an extra 800lbs. (800lbs more than the alloys you picked up) Would it be 800lbs? Only the rear tires are after the drive shaft. The front tires just roll along... hm, but I bet even the fronts make a huge difference. 45lbs a rim? What are they made out of, Tungsten? haha. little joke. Tunsten, the element, is almost 2x as dense as lead if that gives you an idea. That's a lot. Pretty much, this is the kind of stuff that people don't even think about. "ahhhh!!! why does my truck get 10mpg?!?!?!? I can't figure it out!!!" When they have like 50lb rims. I'm not talking about you because you're pretty sharp, but this is the kind of stuff that REALLY makes a difference. Sure, you can switch to thinner oils and fluids, you can remove your side mirrors for less drag... You can do tons of those tiny mods that barely give you any improvement, but this is a huge one. It would definitely be worth it to switch. I would guess a 2-3mpg improvement? Better MPGs, better acceleration and speed sensetivity, and less component wear. The cost would be like..$40? I know you live in Canada, and Canadians get raped on the prices of everything, but this is just labor. I think my local independant tire shop wants $10 to mount and balance each wheel.

Does it ever shut all the way? Are you saying it does shut all the way, but then slides out? Some car doors have a latch that slides down over the bar. If you fskc with this latch while the door is open, the door won't shut all the way (it will do that thing where it goes on the first click, but it's still open). If it does shut all the way, but slides out, then that secondary latch isn't closing and you need to regrease it or reassemble it if the spring somehow came loose.

OHHH MAH GAWD!!!! That's it. That's the key. EVERYONE overlooked this. LOL. FFFFFFFU-

I'm pretty sure PS fluid is just a type of oil. Pretty much every fluid in your vehicle is just a type of oil. So go dump it where you dump other oils. Except coolant. Don't go mixing that with your oils and disposing of it. Anyway, Tungsten, I'm still concerned about your fluid being green. What made you want to do maintenance on your P/S pump? Trying to do preventative maintenance or was there another problem? Besides your thing with the crunchy steering wheel. What happens with P/S pumps when they get low on fluid is that they break...somehow. They will whine and do other unpleasant noises, but they will function for a little while longer. I would assume metal shavings and things like that accumulate and build up. Kind of like an auto trans. Maybe when you sucked the fluid out, you disturbed all that stuff. Have you flushed it yet?

LOL good one. That's pretty clever. It's A Pathy, and it doesn't give a @!*%. What did I do to my truck today? hmm...hmm...what did I do? Oh YEAH! I know. I wish I didn't have to ride my bike home in the rain -.- A motorized enclosed cabin would have been nice.

No, your gas gauge doesn't only move when the engine is on, your gas gauge moves when the key is on ACC. I'm not sure why it moves so slowly. It's probably the physical gauge. A small gauge like that isn't going to move rapidly. the gauge mechanism doesn't move that fast I suppose. Also, the anti-slosh feature that Tungsten referenced is a contributing factor as well. Btw, these tanks ARE 21 gallons LOL. Nissan only made two twos. 15 gal and 21 gal. 15gallon tanks were for the 4cylinders. People around here have definitely put 18, 19+ gallons in their tanks. Anti-slosh my ass. It sloshes plenty.

right. of course. That's the dilemma. Do you tell your insurance company, and pay more, to get a slightly larger check at the end, or do you not? That's the discussion. I'm forgetting that if the truck isn't totaled? At today's labor rates, replacing a bumper and two tail lights would total a WD21. My uncle was mistaken for someone else, and got the windows smashed out of all of his cars. He had about 7 cars. This included a 1966 Mustang (in terrible condition), and a 1979 280zx (in good to great condition). The two door windows, the rear windshield and the half window behind the door window, totaled the car. Replacing 4 pieces of glass would have cost more than the car was worth. And so it's been sitting under a tarp for 3 years now.

Yeah. that's the other thing. Even if you do report the mods, this is what the insurance company will do. Hmm...ok...$1500 for the vehicle. looks like a piece of crap to us. Glad to get it off the roads. $100 for the lift you had on it. $100 for the other stuff you did. Ok, here's a check for $1700. Go buy an EV. Have fun.

As much as I like to be conservative and say "eh, it won't happen to me". I completely agree with you, Heloflyboy. This really hits home to me here in Wash. D.C. (and most everywhere else I'm sure), because the streets in my neighborhoods are flooded with uninsured motorists. It almost seems like it's easier to steal a car, steal a tag, and drive around without a license, than it is to go the proper legal way. I mean, seriously. How bad could it be? You don't have to pay for insurance, you don't have to wait at the MVA/DMV and pay for license/tag fees, you get a free car, you aren't accountable for anything. What's the worst that can happen? You get a slimy lawyer who gets you off with a 4 year sentence? Maybe you get 'your' car towed away, and you get a bus ticket for deportation out of the country? Sounds like a good idea to me. As unfortunate as it is, I'm not lying, or over-exaggerating, or being unreasonable. It's happened to my dad about 4 times in his life (completely totaled his 720 and multiple other vehicles), it's happened to my mom, and it even happened to me once on my bike. Just take a look at this thread I dug up. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31177&st=0&p=598124&hl=+uninsured%20+ran%20+stop%20+sign&fromsearch=1entry598124 As for the original topic, don't bother with your insurance company. You have to remember, their job is to pay you as little as possible. Their business is to keep money. First of all, I doubt the guy on the phone will have any idea what a "calmini 3inch suspension lift with front diff. drop brackets and a panhard drop bracket" is. A lot of the stuff on members' vehicles is purely custom. You can't put a value on that, and trust the insurance companies to not put a value on it at all. Even if they did honor your mods, HOW would they replace them? If you have a stock car and your bumper gets dented, simple. Just take it to the Nissan dealer and get a new OEM bumper put on. Who the hell is the insurance company going to pay to put a new lift on your truck or whatever? They have to send someone out to inspect the damages. This guy may be good at diagnosing smashed doors, but I doubt he would be able to comprehend your swapped Dana axle or something. Besides that, what's the point? Two things might happen. One, they will make you pay more for insurance because your vehicle is now "more dangerous" or "less stable" or some BS like that. Or, they are going to find a loophole in your contract to absolve them of responsibility.

that's a good little trick. it depends how long you have owned the vehicle. Did you say you owned it for only 4k miles, or you have put 4k on it since you took it in for the brakes? If you have only owned it for 4k miles, then I would suggest asking the previous owner. You can also check for indications like stickers like PA said, or look in the owners manual for maintenance records. I believe in the back of the owners manual there is a chart for things like that. If you got a pile of receipts in the buy of the vehicle, there might be one for the timing belt. An oil change, I doubt it, but something bigger like a t-belt replacement, it is more likely. You might want to look for other indicators such as new parts. New acc. belts and pulleys, things like that You could look for wear/tool marks on the T-belt cover bolts. I'm not sure if they have screw driver slots or just the hex pattern, but likely there are scoring marks on the bolts if they have been removed. If you can't tell, try to remove one. If it is stiff and stubborn, they probably haven't been removed...ever. If they are easy to remove, then they were likely sprayed with PB and removed somehow. If all else fails, go with your gut. If the guy you bought it from was kind of a bum and lazy, then I would be safe and just change the timing belt. If you bought it from a guy who took it to the dealer for every little thing, then you are probably safe. But then again, you might just want to do it yourself for insurance.