1994SEV6

I don't know if the gas tank where it's at now (way in the rear) is necessarily the safest place for it. I suppose you would have to get hit REALLY hard for it to take damage, but still. But, if you were to make it smaller or move it, inventing a tire carrier system doesn't sound very fun. I'm sure your first idea would be to adapt the tire carrier system of the Hardbody. Well, I have a Hardbody and boy, is putting that tire up and down a complete pain in the neck. Most people who wheel with HBs chain the tire inside the bed anyway. If the truck was mostly for the freeway, then sure, but it would be more trouble than it's worth. P.S. I thought most people (who wheel) chained their spares to the roof of Pathfinders anyway?

^^^ Yep. Sounds like typical tire hop. That's why you should try to only use 4x4 in slippery surfaces. If there is room for slippage, then this shaking won't happen. If you continue to use 4x4 on surfaces with high friction (such as the road), parts will be subject to wear and tear. It will be your tires taking the damage, or even worse, your T-case taking the hit.

If you are asking frequency at which you have to change the belts, then the square tooth (93 and older) are ~60k. 94 and newer (round tooth) need to be changed at a generous 105k miles.

That picture is worth 1000 words.

James, putting that hulking mass of a transmission back into a Pathy seriously isn't a 1-man job. If you get some help, it would only take a few hours.

hmm. let me think. There's been quite a few things. Nothing terrible like But here's a few things: First of all, not really that big of a deal, but what pisses me off the most is that the previous owner put 30inch tires on the truck. So my speedometer is off by 14%, my odometer is racking up 14% more miles, and my engine is revving 14% higher. 3 different brands of tire. The spare tire was on a Nissan XE chrome wheel with a 27inch tire. The stereo wiring harness was a mess...omg. I have one brand of speaker in the drivers door, another brand in the pass. door, and some speakers out of a Chrysler in the back. SEVERAL broken bolts/screws that were just left. 2 of my 3 tensioners for acc. belts were broken. The intermediate pipe (the one with right after the Y pipe, and has the cat) has about six different welds. It has been spliced at least that many times. My rear sliding window has no latch. I have no idea. My sunroof glass has black caulk all over the bolts. When I bought it, it had a half-full bottle of Power-steering fluid just chillin' next to the battery with no cap. Not even DEXRON, just some gas station BS. The left side of my bed, pretty much where the tail light is, is all putty and bondo. And my wiring harness for a trailer hook-up is pretty much nonexistant. I think that's all I can complai- Uh, I mean, "think" of right now. Other than that, there's just a lot of minor broken and missing stuff. If I had spent a bit more time looking at the vehicle, I would have seen most of the stuff, but I still love it.

NGK may be the best, but does it matter at $48? I think Rockauto has sets of spark plug wires that range in price from like $13 to $24. I think the $24 are Bosch. By spending $24 extra dollars (or $74 extra if they weren't on sale), what are you really gaining? The answer is that you probably aren't gaining anything. Or at least anything significant. Electricity is electricity. You can even make your own wires if you want. Just buy a spool, cut it to the proper length, and crimp it. My best friend's dad, who has a Corvette that produces over 1000hp, still uses regular Bosch wires. Btw, the car is worth over 180k, so it's not him being cheap.

did you have a check engine light on?

Wow. Rust is a serious downer. I haven't really experimented with those "rust-proofers" too much, but I didn't think it was such a big deal. When you say the rust comes back, how long does it take? You think it will not work even for the year? I just thought of something. Can't you somehow spray it with some sort of plastic coating? PVC in a can or something? I don't even know if that exists, but if you coat it in plastic then you would be fine.

5523Pathfinder was listing multiple common Nissan engines. The 3.5l VQ is what a 2002 Pathfinder would have. Earlier Pathfinders had the 3.3, and even earlier ones had the 3.0. Some nissan trucks and other cars used the 2.4l KA, which also had a timing chain. Timing chains SHOULD last the "life" of the vehicle, but the life of a Nissan vehicle is much longer than the lift of an average vehicle. Generally, timing chains last 200k+ miles. But even then, they only stretch and warp in minute amounts. More than likely, your timing chain guides will be gone long before that. At 99k miles you shouldn't really have to do much at all.

So I finally got a "muffler" on my truck. A friend of mine welded some silly glass pack on the pipe coming from my cat. Well, since it's not obnoxiously loud, I can hear a lot of other stuff with my truck. The engine fan is one of them. It took me a while to figure it out because I've never been in another vehicle where you can hear the fan from inside, but it's definitely the fan. I can't hear it at idle, but if I rev it I can hear it, or even if I'm in 1st and sometimes 2nd gear. I can't hear it after that because of outside noises. I can't imagine that something broken or malfunctioning would make it possible to hear my fan, but is this acceptable?

Getting exhaust for these trucks is actually no fun. I haven't had much luck. My muffler rusted off a good number of months ago, and I haven't figured out a solution. You can always buy it from the dealer, but it will be pretty expensive. Advance Auto Parts wanted something like $300 for an exhaust system only from the cat back. Ridiculous. I can't figure out a way to clamp it up either. Nissan originally used some weird clamps that are glued to some rubber which was bolted to the frame. Can't get the old broken clamps out, and don't know where to get new clamps. I've tried rigging it up, but as of now, my "muffler" is resting on my cross members and hanging near my rear axle. I would say to go to a junk yard, but that's not necessarily the type of stuff you want to get used. I guess if it looks rust free (or even new), then sure. But it's always a gamble.

LOL. I love how you operate. $3 part now, $200 part next week.

over filling is only good to do on an automatic transmission? now...that's something you DON'T want to do. That also goes for Lucas products.

The semi is white..the truck/suv is black. BLACK shrapnel flies everywhere. I don't even see any white shrapnel. A truck doesn't explode like that. A vehicle crumples when in an impact. what? why are you insulting me? What does it being cold have to do with anything besides the snow on the ground? That doesn't change how fake the video is. The website that it's on isn't even real. It's just a single, floating page. "Number of views: 0" 120mph? what are you talking about? That semi was not going 120mph. But I bet you'll say "oh, well the semi was going 60mph, and the truck was going 60mph. so, 60+ 60= 120." First of all, that's not how that works. Second of all, the truck was not hit head-on, it was going laterally. It was a complete T-bone. Here's an example of what happens when someone hits something REALLY hard. Note: the truck is not "shattered" http://www2.wspa.com/news/2012/mar/18/north-charleston-man-ar-3434581/

yeah. that was definitely an SUV. If you pause it perfectly when there is a piece of the black shrapnel in screen, it looks like it's kind of floating above the ground.

I'm not sure I believe that. When the Semi hit that vehicle, it shattered. Vehicles don't "shatter". Vehicles are made (mostly) of metal which bends and warps. That's not what a T-bone looks like.

I just did the plugs..the rest will be coming soon.

what are you talking about? On my truck, there is a black hose running out of the cab straight down. It's zip-tied to some other hoses to keep it in place. It just runs down out to the ground. It's for the A/C to release condensation water. If that hose somehow came loose, it's only a few inches from my exhaust. I'll take pictures tomorrow.

nobody thinks that it's the condensation drain hose draining onto the hot exhaust and causing a steaming sizzling sound?

Damn. you be cleaning your truck like erryday. Today I was talking with my friends dad about my exhaust puffing and spark plugs. He asked if I had aluminum heads and told me to put ant-seize on the spark plugs instantly. "Next time you go to pull those spark plugs out, you'll pull the threads out with them". Probably not, but it's good insurance. He also told me that since the truck is so old and the electrical system is already kinda "tired", I should gap the plugs at .028 instead of .032-.035 (or closer to .036 in my case). Runs so much better now. Anyway, that's pretty much what I did today. Finally, landscaping is starting up again. I can stop being so destitute.

This sounds pretty typical of the safety mode for the transmission. Sometimes the transmission will lock itself into "limp home mode" if there is excessive wheelspin. This has been mentioned on the forums a lot recently with "broken transmission" thread or something like that. To get it out of fail-safe mode you have to do something like turn it on and off and then turn it on without starting it then wait 8 seconds and look for the flashing transmission mode light. Let me see if I can find it for you

wait...wut. I'm looking at the picture of that tool. I can't imagine how to even use it. Is the window crank like a snap ring type thing? I'm not trying to break some fragile plastic piece that's going to bug me every day for 3 months until I replace it. I think my friend got that trim piece removal kit that SilverPath was talking about. It's 4 yellow things with flat and forked heads. Worked pretty well on the clips for the door panel

Check the sizes. All the transmission bolts are medium and short sized 14mm bolts. They are that yellowish galvanized metal color. The longer, 15mm, silver bolts are the starter bolts. There are only two of them. On the transmission there are one or two bolt holes that are not occupied. There are bolt holes on the trans side, but no bolt holes on the engine side. Just FYI, there are 4 bolts securing the trans to the engine. There are 2 bolts for the starter. And on the bottom, there are about 6 bolts for the gussets. P.S. the silver bolts are very easy to distinguish. Instead of going IN the engine, they come THROUGH the other side. Also, the starter bolts go in from the front and come out from the back. All the other bolts go in the back and come out the front. The silver bolts have a weird stamp on the head.

The speaker in my driver's door has been blown for quite some time. I finally removed it and put in some speaker I got from the Junkyard. The only problem is that all the speakers in my truck are secured by three screws in a triangular fashion. The one I got from the junkyard is a 4 screw hole design. It seems that all the other speakers I can find online are 4 holed also. I've tried google'ing crazy things to get a 3 holed speaker. It seems that 4 holes is the traditional way. So, I need to get a speaker with 3 screw holes OR I need to drill new holes. My pass. side window rattles quite a bit, and I've found out why. If I roll the window down a little bit, I can move the window from front to back. It has a LOT of play. My drivers side doesn't have this. I need to remove the door panel to fix the window problem, but I have no idea how to remove the panels. How do I remove the window roller handle and door handle? Would drilling new holes be a bad idea?