1994SEV6

WHA?!?! That's crazy!! How did that up end happening? $1100..they had you marked when you walked in the door. Ultimately, it's your call, but these guys are spot on with this. In the grand scheme of things, it is a very minor issue. A throwout or pilot bearing is no big deal...until you have to replace it. Which can be years even after they start to fail. Bearings in general can go a very long time. Just think about how long idler pulleys will continue to work even after they have been "about to fail" for years. The noise just means that the bearing has lost its lubrication. Just drive it until the clutch starts to slip. A failing bearing in the clutch system can be an early warning sign of a clutch replacement. Following the logic of, "it has been X time, and now the throwout bearing is going bad, then clutch will also go bad around the same amount of time"

At the junkyard I go to, they have a separate person to check your bags/boxes for unpaid for parts. They also have a police car there, but I think it's just a car, and not an officer there. I was talking to the guy who checks the bags and boxes about what type of stuff he has found people trying to steal...man that was a long story. He's seen people put exhaust pipe down their pants, hubcaps, fuel pumps..all kinds of crazy stuff. I won't even venture into the stuff he has found people trying to sneak out in their bags, or other various ways. Yes, strangely, I've only ever found two or three jacks in the junkyard...never IN a car have I found one, only ever propping up a car wheel or something.

Ok. I even have one of those small wire brushes made for cleaning battery terminals and links. I'll do it tomorrow and report back. I'll still do it, and take the advice, but I kinda got excited with the brush and cleaned all my stuff a few months ago. My negative battery terminal has always been loose. I can't really tighten the nut because it's a square nut and it's hard to get pliers or anything in there. I guess my best bet is to check that it's properly grounded.

I don't think I have any. I asked about this a long time ago. The two braid wires that connect to the engine around the exhaust manifolds aren't there on mine. I was told it wasn't a serious problem. Are there other grounds besides these two?

Yes. That's obviously how the world works. They are going to pay you a "good" price when they have you over a barrel. Good luck man.

Thanks. You're always some help. I know my Nissan would never leave me stranded, but it's just kinda irritating me. Mostly because I lose all my radio presets LOL. Gotta reset all my clocks, be embarrassed if my mom is in the truck or something "now, Shaun, I told you this damn thing was unsafe...yap yap yapblah blah blah"

Selling it for like zero dollars because you can't get it to run sounds like a really good idea.

So I've got an issue with my truck..and it's starting to rustle my jimmies. SOMETIMES when I turn my key to start the vehicle everything cuts off. dies. No clicking. No sounds. Nothing. My digital dash clock dies. my interior lights won't work. my head lights won't work. The radio won't work. brake lights don't work. It's like someone cut the connection to my battery. Here's what I've figured out: It only happens sometimes. It happened the first time a few months ago. Then it happened again last week. Since last week it's happened 3 more times. If I remove/turn off anything that draws power (cigarette lighter car charger, headunit faceplate, interior lights, door dinger), when I turn the key back off, the dash clock will come back on (after 5-10 seconds). It only stays on until I 1) turn the key, or 2) turn something on. I believe it's a problem with the fuses or my fusebox. If I press on, or remove and replace fuses, I can some times get it to work normally. Today, for instance, I removed 3 random fuses and put them back in when my door dinger started to ding. I knew, therefore, my issue was fixed and I could start it and drive away. Last week, I, one-by-one, removed and replaced every single fuse (making sure to carefully inspect them), and my problem still persisted. Finally, I figured I would take a look under the hood, when I closed my door, and all my lights came back on. I don't know if the door dinger is a source of the problem, or if it's simply the last variable that is consuming power. A friend of mine suggest a loose/bad ground connection, but what kind of ground interferes with the ignition, and practically every other circuit in the car? <-- except, of course, the fusible link from the battery.

ugh..... definitely 27 spline. Everything from 86-90 used 27, and the 4cyl trucks used 27 until 93. After that it was all 28..http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25662-manual-hubyearspline-information/?do=findComment&comment=472000 Man. i wanted to put these on my HB too!! Well, if anybody wants REALLY clean and perfect 27 spline hubs for cheap, let me know.

Well, it's definitely pre-94. It has a square dash, but they only put KAs in them from 90-97. I'll have to double check. If they are 27 spline, they are pretty much absolutely worthless? Only worth something to someone else with an older 4cyl truck? ahhh good idea. Usually I'm pretty good at being resourceful. I swore to myself I would come back for those hubs after I got some parts for my Volvo, but it was hot and my pants were falling down...you know how it is. Yeah, that's kinda what I had in mind. I'll have to bring something big like that in with me next time. I usually only take screwdrivers, wrenches..and that's it. I was thinking that too. It's actually kinda hard to find a good-quality 5mm (or is it 6mm?) allen wrench... SAE won't fit even if it's 'close', and cheaper quality allens will warp if you use them on something heavily torque like hub bolts. Thanks a lot, guys!

I was at the junkyard the other day and found a KA 4x4 King Cab hardbody there. Typical frame rust. When trying to scavenge it for parts, I noticed that it had PERFECT OEM Nissan hubs. Only problem is..the wheels were already removed, and the calipers, too. All that's left are the hubs/rotors, etc. With it moving freely like this, how could I apply enough pressure to the hex bolts to remove the hubs? I was thinking spinning the allen wrench to the right, then quickly whipping it back to the left, but I don't think this will do the trick. Any ideas?

This is a pretty common problem around here. I think (most of the time) the issue was contributed to a loose fusible link going to the starter. It's a large wire that has multiple smaller copper threads in it, and sometimes, not all of the sub-wires are connected. It's kind of like a hit or miss issue. Your truck might start if it is on a non-compression stroke, it might try, or it just might not.

I would be surprised if you couldn't find something generic that fits, or is close. For me, this would be a significant issue

I receive a box of parts ordered from Rockauto in the mail today. I only had about 20 mins, so I thought I could replace my fuel filter with time to spare. <--- LOL NOPE Took the fuse out, started up my truck. Let it die. Cranked it 3 more times to be safe. Loosened the clamps on the hoses. It took several sprays of PB and pulling as hard as I possibly could to get those hoses off. I got the IN hose off. Guess what? Dirty gasoline goes everywhere. NICE. I finally get the fuel filter all out. Here are the results Says Made in Japan Original, stock fuel filter? Most likely. (135k miles) But here's the real shocker After the filter shot gas everywhere, I quickly put it in the first thing I could find. I let it drain into a PB cap and...

May the Fourth be with you

wow. that's a really cool idea. I like it a lot. I've never ridden in a Wrangler or Humvee type vehicle with removable doors, but the doors must be light. Pathfinder doors are...not. You have to consider that. If you are going to be removing these doors frequently, then you need to consider that. You are probably going to scrape them a lot since they are very bulky and awkward.

would you mind posting a picture of this IAC valve? I think I have the same issue, but I don't think I have all that complicated EGR stuff (therefore I am uncertain where my IAC is) because mine is a 1994.

It has to be hot pink

Man. why you so soft? I mess my arms up like that every day just mowing the lawn. Also, tryna wear some gloves?

those...are the exact same thing. You want to spend less. Period.

am I supposed to have one, or is that like a special extra option package?

In my process of slowly buying new replacement parts, I got some sway bar bushings. The rectangular ones with the dome shape on top. I knew this wouldn't make a WHOLE lot of difference, but they were cheap, and I thought it would be some easy fun. I got everything off and my old bushings looked...almost better than the new ones. I could tell they were a little bit aged and cracking a little bit, but they weren't worn at all and are bigger than the new ones. I put the new ones on, and I'm a little concerned with a gap, here's why I don't like that gap at all. I know it's probably not a big deal, but it doesn't look like it should be there. Here's Old vs. new What's this little bracket on my steering bar? Does it have anything to do with those brackets on the bottom of my oil pan? I also bought some upper control arm bushings. Mine are completely...blown, demolished, crushed. How easy are they to change? I tried changing my tie rod, but I kinda need two jacks to relieve tension on the tie rod. Is the control arm like this at all?

So you DIDN'T have to replace that tension rod? That's ridiculous damage though.

Tried to change a tie rod end. Didn't work out for me. With my genius self, I concluded that I should buy an entire tie rod assembly. Trying to unbolt one tie rod end from a very old adjustment sleeve wouldn't work. Any tips with this one?