1994SEV6

yeah. thats probably true. I've only sat in leather seats three or four times. I wouldn't pay extra at the dealer for leather, but I would buy some on the cheap to replace my cloth seats anytime.

wow. I would love to have leather seats. Personally, I don't like the heated function. It's nice, but for me it' a nuisance. you turn it on. it's nice. ohh it's too hot. you turn it off. you turn it on...too hot. That's just my experience with heated seats. Besides that, why would I want my ass to be warm? Your (idk about yours personally) butt is probably one of the warmest place. It has the most flesh and a lot of blood flow. Now..if they made a way to heat my hands and feet then fskc yeah

WUT? No power seats? That doesn't even make sense. I'm sorry for assuming, but I've never seen leather seats without the power function, much less HEATED leather seats. I was just giving experience on my friends truck.

One wiring harness fits all really does apply to these vehicles, but it doesn't apply for extra components. For example, my truck has all the plugs for all the sensors and switches for Cruise control, but I would have to add a lot of junk to have cruise control. The wiring is all there though. I suppose this isn't 100% true though. What about those certain model Pathfinders that have those tweeters in the window pillars from the factory? Anyways, just have a look around for some plugs. There are usually a few. The seats have (or should) have heat, and a full range of movements. Look around, but don't go tearing your truck apart. If there is such a thing as the timer and what not, then I would think you would have to connect the seats, and then wire the seats to the timer and switches. This could all be one big wire, but it might have also been separated into two wire bundles or something. Just experiment on a Pathfinder in the junkyard. A friend and I did the exact same thing on his truck. He put heated leather seats in. Chevy doesn't exactly follow the same ideology with wiring harnesses. If you need to re-position the seat, or give it a little bit of power, you should be able to plug in some of those 7.2v battery packs for R/C cars and things like that.

you covered all the basic stuff. Sounds like you might have a timing problem. I think the least amount you can be off with the timing belt is one tooth. But I think if you are even one tooth off, your engine will run terrible. It won't smash valves just yet, but I think you would have more than a slight dragging feeling. The knock sensor seems like the most plausible thing with the info you gave. If your engine is actually knocking, or if the sensor is faulty, then timing will be retarded and the air/fuel mixture will be affected. When I started to read your post, and I was only done with the top paragraph, I was instantly thinking EGR or some sort of valves like that could be gummed up somehow. Also, check your MAF sensor. I might be getting this mixed up, but if it's dirty or if the wire is loose, then the truck will be fine at idle, but it will stumble and hesitate under load.

oh @!*%! dats big!

thanks for the link -___- I'm envious. yep.yep. The extra clothing really helps. Tonight, I was wearing sweat pants under some stupid baggy pants I hate under some other baggy pants with paint all over them. I can't really walk very fast, but I didn't feel a thing. I put the pockets of the outer-most jeans into the pockets of the middle pair. That makes for some damn warm pockets. It's not just the uncomfortable temperature, it affects a lot of other things. Last night, I spend 1.5 hours putting a quart of gear oil into my front diff. via a thin plastic tube. That was slowwwwww. I don't think it would have been that much faster if it was warmer, but the tube sure would have been more flexible.

Oh yeah. I did google the "dissimilar metal corrosion". That was pretty interesting. At first, the article was talking about when a current is applied between two different types of metal but then it went on and explained without current. That's really interesting that just because two metals aren't the same, they can corrode. I know why the drain plug won't come out. I'm not...mad, I guess, that it's been subject to heat, grime, "dissimilar metal corrosion", etc. I wasn't trying to start a fight over weather the drain plug was steel or not. I was wrong. I really expected something made of "steel" to not be torn up by a breaker bar so easily. I even put a jack under the breaker bar to prevent it from twisting and slipping. No luck. Oh well. Something to deal with in the spring. el-cheapo AAP suction pump for now.. I know. I wasn't intentionally burning it. I wasn't keeping the flame on it. When I was moving the torch around, I would sometimes accidentally go over some of the plug. It would instantly smolder.

Wow. That's all pretty interesting. Boy, the systems and contraptions that people come up with... Tungsten, I don't know if you wrote that personally, but great explanation. Does anyone know the system to which vehicles had it? I was looking at pictures on the thread that Tungsten linked and I don't have that device with the vacuum hoses.

I wasn't aware that you could burn steel with a propane torch. So what about the fill plug? I'm not even going to ask about the differentials because those are probably steel. Why would the drain plug be hard to get out because of the "dissimilar metal corrosion", but not the fill plug? What about the t-case? That's not even a claim you can make. ^^^^^ Edit: I didn't mean Nissan. I meant people who own the trucks. I thought he meant "they used the proper tools" to remove the plugs. OF COURSE Nissan used the proper tool to originally install the plugs.

too bad there is no such thing as global warming, only climate change. very snazzy.

that plug is definitely not steel. It's WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY too soft to be steal. I had this exact same problem. The plug is tightened that much from the factory. Nobody could have tightened it that much on their own without leaving serious marks. Mine WAS perfect before I ruined it. The factory must put the plugs in when everything was still hot from being manufactured. I think they do this with most of the stuff. For example, the exhaust manifold studs. How would you get those studs in there without leaving marks? The thing that boils my piss is that the transmission drain plug is the ONLY plug that's torqued down like that. The drain/fill plugs for the rear diff, no prob. The drain/fill plugs for the front diff, a cinch. The drain/fill plugs for the t-case, even the weakest of 1/2 drives could have gotten those out. The fill plug for the M/T, easiest thing ever. Drain plug for the M/T...hardest thing ever. My plug is the definition of rounded. except for drilling it, there's no way it's coming out. I don't see why drilling it wouldn't work. Drill it, then use an easy out. If the easy out breaks, then you just made yourself a new plug. I don't see a downside.

oil cooler....? waaaaat? The thing in the picture you linked, and the thing in the OPs picture don't look anything alike. It's not exact, but it looks pretty similar to my truck. I don't have an oil cooler and if I didn't know better, I would make a hefty bet that that's a starter.

nice. that's just enough to have fun with. snowball fights, 4x4

wow. Just curious, what part of Texas? I was in Houston for about a week when I was 12 years old or so. Out of curiosity I asked if they got snow and someone said something like "oh no, the only place in Texas that gets snow is Armadillo (probably remembering that completely wrong) which is 12 hours north" Wow. That's nippy. That's pretty spooky. I bet it would misery but I would love to see that. Anyway...I live about 10 miles from Wash. D.C. Our weather is pretty ridiculous. Yesterday it was about 35 degrees. Over night it got down to like.12F. This morning it was a brisk 14F. That's probably the coldest weather I've experience in a loooooong time. It "warmed" up to a whopping 31F. This weekend it's supposed to be 59 again. I think I mentioned that but it's just crazy. Oh yeah, there was a 5 minute blizzard yesterday. I was in class and saw the wildest winds out of the window. I swear, with that wind, those snow flakes might have cut your face or something. All this cold weather makes me wonder..how does anyone work on their cars in the winter? Of all times, my dad had to change his oil last night when it was 25 degrees. He's been putting it off for weeks and he does it then. The whole time he was doing it (I was handing him tools and holding the light) I was thinking to myself "do it in the spring...do it in the spring...spring!!! warmer!!!" My truck needs a good bit of work. One of my calipers is leaking, I have a torn CV boot, the suspension is most likely stock.. I don't want to leave that stuff until spring, but how does anyone work on their stuff in the winter? I know some people probably have nice warm garages, but not me. That gave me another thought. If it's cold for me, now, then how to people in Alaska and Canada EVER do car work? Do you guys just tough it out? I'm all for chilly weather, but my hands go numb in just a few minutes. That's no fun

The part that you circled in red is your starter. The oil pressure sending unit is directly above the starter and to the left of the oil filter. It is entirely possible for the sensor to come loose and leak oil. I'm not sure that it would create a puddle though. And I think it would only leak oil when the engine is running. When the engine is off, the oil line is below the sensor. Only the oil pressure gets it up to the sender unit. When taking a 2nd look at your picture, I don't see a wire for the sender unit. It could be out of view, but see if there is. OH yeah. Just because there is oil on your starter doesn't mean that the sender unit is leaking. With the placement of the oil filter, it is common for people to get oil on their starters when doing oil changes.

yeah. I was thinking the exact same thing but it almost seems too small. Nissan used those clever little devices to control how shifters move. This DOES look like the piece that does on the t-case shifter, but I still think it looks too small. With that shape, it couldn't go to anything else. The area highest on the picture is for 2hi, then you move it down for 4hi, then you have to push the shifter down for N, then you slip it into 4lo, which is the last spot on the ..whatever you would call this. It is very simple and I would think it would be easy to put back on, but I have no idea why anyone would have removed it.

Touche. You seem to have won this one, but you haven't seen the last of me.

welding equipment? to re-aim your headlights??? You do know that there are two screws (one on the top of the headlight, and on the outside) that are FOR re-aiming the headlights? Oh yeah. If you want cupholders, you should talk to a guy around here by the name of Tungsten. He's got you covered. He typically stocks cupholders from all major makes and models and he can give you explicit instructions on how to modify whatever cupholder you want to fit into your Pathfinder. I think it might be his life's work.

That's an extremely interesting Idea. I think your idea of the MAF is right. For the most part, air ALWAYS has 22% (or whatever it is) oxygen. This is a constant. If you have X amount of air passing through the MAF, then you have a directly proportional amount of oxygen. The MAF doesn't chemically know the difference between oxygen and nitrogen. If you put pure O2 through the MAF it would think it is 77% nitrogen. 77% of the pure O2 would be wasted. The injectors would not spray enough fuel to create a good fuel air ratio. The ratio would be 3x more biased towards oxygen. This might make a difference but it might not because it's the same. The fuel utilitizes the 22% oxygen and wastes the rest just as if it were nitrogen.

that sounds like quite the adventure. I've seen some FF vehicles FLY over snow. When I was calling around people on craigslist to buy Nissan trucks, I often talked about snow and 4wd. A lot of the guys were pretty knowledgeable about Nissans, 4wd, and stuff like that. On at least 3 occasions, the sellers would tell me about some CRX or Civic or small front wheel drive car they had that would pass big 4wd trucks by the dozens on snow. ) It's gonna get cold tonight and tomorrow morning (30 degrees F), but it's going to be 59F again by Saturday..so the news says.

wat?

apparently this is actually extremely possible. I don't think a bad/broken distributor can cause it, I think it happens when your timing is 180 degrees off. What I mean is, you can't have perfect timing, and all the sudden your distributor breaks and makes you engine run backwards. It is entirely possible that your distributor or another ignition component could be broken. What makes you think it's running backwards? backfiring in the throttle body? exhaust coming out of the airbox? I don't know if it's possible on these engines, but you can take a perfectly functional engine and run it backwards. It only works on some 4 strokes and all 2 strokes. If you have a 2 stroke ATV, just put it in 1st gear but push it in reverse. I think there are a few threads around here about this. Look around some

4chan? what's that? who changed my post? I don't know what 4chan is. a friend of mine just posted this picture on my facebook wall. I thought it was funny. why did someone change it?

you do make a fair point.