1994SEV6

and honestly...low end torque is what really matters for trucks. For Corvettes or whatever, it's ALL about HP, but trucks are more about torque. But this is just an SUV and torque isn't super important, but I would prefer my torque because I use my truck for work.

I know you're looking for the measurements, but honestly it doesn't matter that much. Just crank the bars up until the front end looks how you want it. Remember, even if someone goes give you the measurements, it's not exact. You have to crank up your bars to that measurement, then you have to drive the truck and let them settle for a few hours, then you have to measure and repeat. Some people crank their bars up for a certain look they like, or to fit bigger times. Some lowrid-- I mean, people crank them waaayy down to lower their truck. Just crank them up until it looks level with the rear, or until you like it.

how does timing get messed up anyway? I thought the timing belt dictated the timing. oh wait, that's for the valves. So the distributor controls the timing of the spark plugs? How would this timing get off?

generally I'd agree. But I have that feeling that I just did something soooo stupid that it's my obligation to fix it. Usually, it's the trucks fault that something bad happens. If I'm trying to fix something and the space is too tight for a wrench, or a bolt breaks or whatever THAT'S then I say F it.

oh yeah. forgot to mention...someone snapped the head off of that bolt that you turn to release tension on the p/s belt. I am terrible at paint or with software on computers in general. But you get the idea. I was looking at the bolt and it looked like it was supposed to be head-less on both ends. I looked more closely and saw a fragment of a thread coming up and figured that the bolt head snapped off. PB Blaster and visegrips I suppose..

whaat? It would seem like the torque converter would be the least of your worries. I think there are only two ways to put it on since it's notched. I know it's heavy but just muscle it in there. Not really a big deal. It might be easier to put a bolt though and do like two threads just to get it to hang on. Definitely value Nefarious' words. He knows what he's talking about

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwj4ZVxIDmw Here the A/C belt is off. I was thinking what if it is the valves? The valves are somehow tapping? That doesn't make sense though. If the engine was idling at 1,400 rpm, and the tapping is at a certain speed, then it would be twice as fast at 2,800rpm, right? Well, that's clearly not the case. Even at 1,600rpm, the tapping is multiple times faster. At about 1,800rpm it goes so fast that you can't even hear the individual taps. If other words need to be said, the engine is going X speed, and the tapping is going Y. at 2x= 20y. 1.1x=5y? That doesn't make sense if it was the valves. I think someone said it might be the water pump or something. That would make more sense, wouldn't it? If the water pump pulley is moving, let's say, 5 times as fast as the engine, then that would make sense.

maybe I'll use some of that super-uber cheap gear oil and flush it out. The stuff that's no-name and like $3.50 for a quart.. 7-11 special.

yeah. water is stupid. That fill hole HAS to be at the worst spot. 10x worse than the oil filter. I'm just wondering if that cap would float in oil or stay down on the bottom If it floats, then I might have some luck trying to flush it. If it just stays on the bottom, then it probably won't be affected very much

I was changing the fluid in my front differential and I dropped a plastic cap in. I took the fill plug out first, then the drain plug. I put the drain plug back in when I was ready to refill the differential. The filler hole is at such a weird place that I had to angle the bottle of gear oil in a horrible way. I wanted to keep the blue plastic cap on until the last second when I could pop it off and let the gear oil go into the diff instead of all over my front end. Somehow the blue cap managed to pop itself into the filler hole. I removed the drain plug again and put my finger in there to get it out. I could feel it, but it was coated in oil. Every time I tried to get it with my finger it would slid out from under. I must have pushed it further away because I couldn't feel it anymore. I tried all different kinds of angles to try to feel it, but all I could feel were the gears. Wow, those things are huge. I thought maybe I could put 1/5 qt. of gear oil in to flush it out. Maybe when I drain that little bit, the cap would come sliding out. No luck. I put probably 1/3 quart in there this time and it's currently sitting. I just wanted to post my problem on here to see if there was anything I could do. Could I pour water in there until the cap comes out? I know water and oil don't mix, but it would be such a small amount of water. Could I flush some old motor old through there or something? I know the plastic cap won't do much to those big gears, but I feel soooo stupid. I can't believe I did something that stupid. I don't even know why I wanted to change the fluid in the front diff. It's not like it could have gone bad or something. I bet it has like 1,000 miles of use on it. The factory fluid did look a little tan-ish though It's just the stupid blue little cap at the top of the bottle for reference

Well I'm stupid for thinking it would be in the Transfer section..

whaaaaat? I looked, and I'm currently looking that the FSM. It says "Genuine Nissan ATF or equivalent type DEXRON II fluid is used for the transfer. Never add gear oil (75w-90) to Automatic Transmission Fluid." I'm not complaining, but we must be reading something different. Please show me where it says to use gear oil because I would be much happier if I could.

OK. so how do I get the accessory belts off? More specifically the A/C belt. One of the members around here made a good timing belt video, and I saw how to take off the P/S belt, but I can't figure out the A/C belt. It doesn't mention how to remove belts in the FSM or at least the EM section. nevermind. i looked in the maintenance section and it shows the drive belts, but not exactly how to remove them. I guess the nut to loosen is the one ON the pulley?

well now I'm pissed. I thought I was done with ATF I hate that crap. It gets everywhere and I hate the smell.

did we ever get a quantity for the T-case? Does it have to be gl-4 for the t-case? I know we use gl-4 instead of gl-5 for the manual trans because of the brass synchros, but the T-case doesn't have synchros, does it? Also, I know I have the H223B diff because it took 2.7 quarts, but I don't have that sticker indicating an LSD. Are all H223Bs LSDs? Or did Nissan make some H223Bs open? I would think that one of the other rear diffs would be the ones that are open because they would be lighter duty. And Sewebster asked the same question I have. It never got answered The T-case calls for 80w-90, but the manual trans calls for 75w-90. Would 75w-90 be ok for the t-case?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=siqx9FemP9E So there are a few noises going on. There's the tapping that you can hear when I rev it the TINIEST bit. It's idling at ~1,600 and I assume I'm revving it to 1,750rpm. There's that rattling or scraping I guess. I thought it might be my A/C compressor since a friend of mine said his S10 sounded EXACTLY the same before his A/C compressor blew up. I think later on in the video I thought it might be the fan clutch. I looked at the tachometer several times for RPM reference. Doesn't it seem to idle a little high? I'll check the ECU, but I didn't change it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4w7oWHucTCg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13d4Y0qd4mY Sorry about the camera work. I know you can't read the font on the Pennzoil bottle, so I read it, but I was trying to read it through the camera which was stupid. I had to keep moving the camera in order to read the words.

That does sound very peculiar. Maybe the spark plugs aren't gapped correctly? When you say half you mean one bank, correct? So it's not like cylinders 1,2,3 It's like cylinders..1,3,5? It would seem like the cylinders being non-sequential would make a difference. I don't know the answer, just throwing out ideas.

I'll get you a stock pic in a minute. I'm about to go out there right now

alright fine. I'll go make a video right now. Kingman, y u so antsy? 3:30 AM..get some sleep.

do you mean luggage racks?

it should be pretty obvious. The stock exhaust consists of a pretty unattractive red (iron) manifold right off of the engine. Directly off of the manifold, there is a another pipe. If you have headers, then the exhaust pipes will be shiny and instead of manifolds, the pipes will just continue all the way down.

I cleaned out my blower resistor area thingy. It was pretty much empty... I kept hearing leaves rustling, but this didn't seem to solve it. After I was done cleaning out the leaves, I tried to take my accessory belts off. I couldn't figure out how. I know that sounds stupid, but the tensioner bolt wasn't doing anything. The bolt was all the way down (rotated to the right), so I naturally thought that I should turn the bolt the other way to loosen it. I got the bolthead about a half inch up before I thought about what was happening. How would moving the bolt UP make the tensioner go down and release the belt...? The belt was still as tight as it was, so I thought I should put it back the way it was and go inside to research the proper way to do the simpliest thing ever. I got distracted by someone coming over who was curious about these Nissans. I eventually showed them how to clean a MAF and I thanked the laziness of the previous owner for not rounding the screws. I was driving the truck a little bit today. The tapping is always there. It gets QUIETER after it's warm, but it doesn't go away. Maybe one noise is going away, but another noise is not? When I'm at a red light or in low RPMs in general, I can hear the tapping.

was it steady or moving all around?

Wow thanks! You even made a thread just for me. I saw that Sta-lube stuff, but that costs $15 per GALLON. That's scary cheap. http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=SL24239&S=C