1994SEV6

I appreciate the link. It's much better than nothing, but that's an adapter of sorts. An adapter works fine for most things, but it causes extra play and weakness. Also, tools from Harbor freight aren't the best at all. Even my soft aluminum drain plug would tear that adapter apart in quick work.

Thanks. I had this idea that the blower motor was somewhere much more inconvenient to get to. I thought the resisters were right there and the blower was somewhere else.

yep. that's where I learned to clean out my resistor area.

thanks! That's exactly what I was hoping to get.

ouuuu!!! That's a good idea. I'm not exactly sure where the blower motor is. The thing you take out to clean the leaves are the resistors, right? So the big black thing that the resistors are bolted too is the blower motor?

I vote for dorky-ness. I suggest: For the VIN, the first 3 digits indicate where it is from. JN8. J = Japan. N8= multi-purpose vehicle. My truck is 1N6 which is USA produced truck. A 3N1 would be a Mexican produced car. It's actually kinda cool. A VIN number can tell you anything and everything about a car. Without even using a computer you can still figure some stuff out. Nunya is also correct. The first 3 digits tell you the country and type of vehicle, but the 11th digit specifies the plant it was made in. http://nissanhelp.com/diy/common/nissan_vin.htm

In the summer I used my A/C very rarely for fear of burying my MPG even lower than 17. I did use it once or twice though. Both times I noticed a flickering noise kind of. My friend had an S10 who had the same noise and then his A/C compressor broke. I wasn't really convince that I had the same problem but I decided to not use the A/C just in case. Just another problem I don't want to deal with. Anyway, it's starting to get a bit colder (not really ) so I've been using my defroster or heat every now and again. Sometimes I notice the same flickering noise. It's not instant though. Sometimes the noise will come after 5 mins of the blower being on, sometimes I can have the heater on for an hour and I won't hear anything. I cleaned out the blower resistor area. There wasn't much there, but I got most of it. Is this a common problem? Maybe there are some stubborn leaves that haven't settled all the way in my resistor area? I just want to get it taken care of in case something is close to breaking. I'm going to be using my heat all winter and since the heat on Nissans is so amazing, I would like to take advantage of it.

we can't take tours in the Tennessee plant?

Is there such a thing as a 13mm drive? Instead of 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 inch, is there 13mm? I think that would be most useful instead of an adapter. Anyway...I was pretty tired of messing with it on the ground. I called up some shops to help me out. Typical BS "I'll charge you for 1/3 hour. So it'll cost you $40 to get it out" "Oh yeah. If it takes my guy 20mins then I'll only charge you like $30 bucks. No big deal. we do it all the time" Then I finally called a local Midus and got the coolest guy. He said bring it in and he would do it for free. I get there and it's the coolest guy ever. He's like some 21 year old guy and it's the most relaxed shop. Got a pile of mufflers over hurr, got a half assembled S10 over derr, got a 1970s Dodge truck with 40 inch tires.. NBD. He put it up on a lift and pretty much did the same stuff I did. 1/2 inch drive, breaker bar with extensions..a long pipe for leverage. He didn't make it much worse but he couldn't get it off. He soaked it with some more PB Blaster and told me to just keep spraying it. I'm just going to use the suction pump that Jamesrich did, but I'll keep at it. At this point, getting the fluid out is most important, but I do want to get the drain plug out so I can replace it.

wow. That makes a lot more sense. The 1/2 drive seemed so obvious, but it actually didn't fit very well. I just gooogled drain plug and had some difficulty finding it.. I tried "square drain plug removal tool" and got some results. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM209377291P?sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=SPM198324885 Here's a kit from sears, but it says it's a 1/2 drive.

you're probably better than me, but I have terrible luck with those gauges. Whenever I try to pull the needle out (in the JY or my own truck) I break the needle, break the little rod, or I break the gauge completely. I had to replace my temp. gauge to do this but then snapped my fuel gauge on the re-installation and had to swap it out. No fun.

I was going to fill through the shifter. It's like 10x easier and that's the only simple way to overfill to 5.1qt. I didn't think about getting the plugs out, but I couldn't have done it anyway. The trans had fluid in it and I couldn't just tip it up-side-down. The fluid would have come running out. I guess I could have put the shifter back on and and only flipped it 90degrees, but I wasn't even going to change the fluid until I realize it had some rainwater in it.

what actually happened? You said the sidewall blew out, but you didn't say how. I think we would all be interested in hearing this. What I did tried to do today... Finally got my 5quarts of Redline in the mail. frickin' UPS. I swear. I was sitting 5 feet from the door and didn't hear a thing. I had to go to the dang depot and get my crap t 9pm. Couldn't get my drain plug out for my life. I tried PB Blaster. Let it soak. I got the ratchet in there really good. Is it me, or can the drive only go in the drain plug about halfway? I think that's really the problem... I was using a really beefy Craftsman ratchet so I could get a good angle on it without an extension. I tried to use all kind of cheats to get it. The wrench just dug into the plug. At this point it wasn't too bad. I got out my propane torch and put it on the plug. I thought I could heat it up and break loose some of the friction or torque or whatever the force is at this moment. I doubt I got the metal anywhere near hot enough, but tiny fragments of the plug were burning off. Strange. The torch didn't work so I tried to heat it up (I set the torch there for a good 2mins) and then shock it with liquid nitrogen. I used one of those computer duster cans and held it upside down. That didn't work. I think my bolt is almost completely rounded by this point. OH yeah. I went off at it with a hammer. I was feeling pretty frustrated and I thought the hammer might loosen the plug up some. Couldn't hurt, right? I also tried to tighten it a little bit. Didn't budge Just for kicks, I looked over and saw a plug on my T-case. "the plug isn't facing completely down towards the ground. *idea* that means it must be the fill plug!!" WRONG.... by the way, both the fill and drain plugs of the T-case came out with the easiest of efforts. I'm pretty not happy. It was the drain plug and purple fluid came gushing out. My arm was soaked. That stuff is really under pressure. I was pretty damn confused at this point. PURPLE fluid? Is this some weird kind of premium gear oil? I soaked a napkin in it and examined it more closely. It had a faint smell of ATF, but it also smelled like coffee. It looked like some ATF with coffee too. I think I might still have a little bit on my plug. What else can I do? I know I'll probably have to use a turkey baster or a pump through the fill hole, but what else could I possibly try? I could probably get my hands on an impact gun

it's awesome and pathetic at the same time.

Damn! Owner took the ad down

Here's something I did. Jack up the front end. Put your t-case in neutral. Spin your secondary drive shaft by hand. Since the front diff is open, both wheels might not spin. One wheel will lock and you will see it move. If the other wheel doesn't lock then try turning the cv shaft by hand. If it still doesn't lock then you might have a problem. Another way to see would be to put it in 4wd, drive it a few feet, then Jack it up. By that time, the hubs should definitely be locked.

I'm pretty sure your tire pressure is innocent with this issue. Are you sure both of your hubs are engaging?

So you currently have auto hubs? I think with auto hubs you have to go in reverse for a few feet for them to unlock.

Town, you made the exact same mistake I did. Apparently, "real axle" does NOT include differential. The real axle is pretty much about the brakes. It is technically called "rear final drive" even though the front differential has a "differential carrier". Confusing. Here's what you want. http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-wd21-1987-1995/genuine-nissan-parts/power-train/380-rear-final-drive/-c-5572_5573_5640_5663.html You want to scroll down to the last exploded view. Make sure you are looking at the differential for the VG30E 4WD LSD model. It's called the H223B

They DEFINITELY did have brown. I have never seen a brown interior, but it does exist. I can't really help you with your problem, but do what Nunya said and look on the door jamb for a color code. Actually, the door jamb might only include the exterior color. For example, I think my truck is AH3 which is the burgundy. Anyway, I have only seen the red, blue, and grey on the trucks. (I like how you said red, MAROON, blue and grey) So, I have proof that brown exists and I think this is what is tripping you up. The color difference between grey and the brown is so subtle it took me 6 months to notice! The interior in my truck is grey. No doubt about it. It's like a silver, gun metal grey. My driver's side inside door handle does not match. One night, in a certain twilight, I noticed that the handle was off color. "Oh, must be dirty". I tried to clean it with some armorall stuff and it didn't come clean. I looked more closely and noticed that it was an entirely different color. In direct sunlight I wouldn't be able to tell the different for my life. If you look closely, it can be determined that your truck is that brown-ish color. The door handles give it away. If someone told you that it was grey you would believe it, but I know what grey really looks like. Those door handles and the door interior is not grey.

And there he is! Coming through like a champ. Anyway, I looked up that rear differential seal problem. I never heard of it since these diffs are rock solid, but there is a note of it in the FSM. Check out pages PD-14 and PD-15. It doesn't seem like it would take that long. The hardest thing might actually be locating a new seal. Go to the dealer for that. Don' even putz around with your parts stores. Here's the link to the FSM since I don't know how to insert pages. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1994_Pathfinder/

NAPA falsely educated you? Weird. I've only had 5 or so experiences with NAPA, but they always seem to be the top notch guys. Advance Auto Parts is some teenagers who don't know the difference between motor oil and olive oil. All they sell is chrome BS. Autozone is...laughable. That's all I can say. To me, Napa has employees who actually know the basics of a car. They can tell you the components of front end suspension, they can explain to you the difference between 5w-30 and 10w-40 oil, and stuff like that. I don't want to rant about car parts retailers... Yes, you will get an education pretty fast around here. Towncivilian is your go-to-guy for chemical make-ups and things like that. You might want to check out Bobistheoilguy if you are into that kind of stuff. Some real scholars over there. You definitely need an additive. For any LSD as far as I'm concerned. These Pathfinders need them for sure. No two ways about it. I'm not sure what the additive does or prevents, or how it works or what it is composed of, but your differential will deteriorate eventually if you don't use it. The guy at NAPA might just not know that much about LSDs. Not a big deal. Everyone can try to tell you something that they are completely wrong/mistaken about. I know I'm guilty of it especially on this forum and people have set me straight. If you have questions, just come here and get straitened out.

tapping the brakes to regain traction is an old trick, but it's kind of a ghetto way to do it. Tapping the brakes will apply on a lot of vehicles. LSD or not. Me replying to this isn't for Heloflyboy because I'm pretty sure he's a pro off-roader. There is a thread about LSDs. It's not a great thread, and it doesn't say much about them at all, but still take a look http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18691 pinion seals leaking? hmm. I generally know how differentials work, but I don't know about seals in them. Anyway, be careful with that Lucas stuff. I'm sure Towncivilian will come around and educate you soon enough. Yes, it is true that if you have an LSD you need an LSD additive. I don't know what brand of oil you used, but I would think that "ok for use with LSD" is different than LSD additive. If you have $20 to spare, refill your rear diff with Mobil 1 75w90. Oh yeah. I know someone is going to make a drug reference, so might as well be me. Not sure if your LSD is working? Is your reality always that warped?

I had the same question. I did a quick google search and a youtube video explained it pretty well. Apparently, you want to eliminate your slip yoke when you lift your vehicle. The slip yoke is like a little bit if extra length that your driveshaft can extend. For bumps and stuff I guess. When you lift your vehicle, your driveshaft is now at an angle. The transmission is higher than the differential so it has to bend differently AND stretch. 1 or 2 inches of lift is no big deal, but if you do like 4 inches, then you start having problems. The angel would become so severe, that the u-joints would become weak. Also, in this video (referring to older Jeeps YJs I think he said), the driveshafts would extend so much that they would actually slip out of the transmission a tiny bit and in certain gears, it wouldn't go into gear and it would damage the trans. Take a look, it seems to make sense, but they are very expensive. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSi1dITVPB0

Wow. This is truly amazing craftsmanship. This looks perfect. I can't even tell except for on the last picture. On the last picture, I can only see a slight difference when I look closely. Like Adamzan said, I think this difference in texture would not be noticeable after some clear coat. My friend did the same thing (repainting, not rebuilding rust into perfection) and the repainted area had different characteristics. On the repainted area, I could see the grain and how he painted it. Also, if it got wet, the water would stick to the paint, while on the factory painted areas it would roll off. When he put a few layers of clear coat on, it looked stock. I thought it was good at body work until I saw this. Kudos on taking scraps of rust and turning them into a make over.