1994SEV6

I'm pretty sure your tire pressure is innocent with this issue. Are you sure both of your hubs are engaging?

So you currently have auto hubs? I think with auto hubs you have to go in reverse for a few feet for them to unlock.

Town, you made the exact same mistake I did. Apparently, "real axle" does NOT include differential. The real axle is pretty much about the brakes. It is technically called "rear final drive" even though the front differential has a "differential carrier". Confusing. Here's what you want. http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-wd21-1987-1995/genuine-nissan-parts/power-train/380-rear-final-drive/-c-5572_5573_5640_5663.html You want to scroll down to the last exploded view. Make sure you are looking at the differential for the VG30E 4WD LSD model. It's called the H223B

They DEFINITELY did have brown. I have never seen a brown interior, but it does exist. I can't really help you with your problem, but do what Nunya said and look on the door jamb for a color code. Actually, the door jamb might only include the exterior color. For example, I think my truck is AH3 which is the burgundy. Anyway, I have only seen the red, blue, and grey on the trucks. (I like how you said red, MAROON, blue and grey) So, I have proof that brown exists and I think this is what is tripping you up. The color difference between grey and the brown is so subtle it took me 6 months to notice! The interior in my truck is grey. No doubt about it. It's like a silver, gun metal grey. My driver's side inside door handle does not match. One night, in a certain twilight, I noticed that the handle was off color. "Oh, must be dirty". I tried to clean it with some armorall stuff and it didn't come clean. I looked more closely and noticed that it was an entirely different color. In direct sunlight I wouldn't be able to tell the different for my life. If you look closely, it can be determined that your truck is that brown-ish color. The door handles give it away. If someone told you that it was grey you would believe it, but I know what grey really looks like. Those door handles and the door interior is not grey.

And there he is! Coming through like a champ. Anyway, I looked up that rear differential seal problem. I never heard of it since these diffs are rock solid, but there is a note of it in the FSM. Check out pages PD-14 and PD-15. It doesn't seem like it would take that long. The hardest thing might actually be locating a new seal. Go to the dealer for that. Don' even putz around with your parts stores. Here's the link to the FSM since I don't know how to insert pages. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1994_Pathfinder/

NAPA falsely educated you? Weird. I've only had 5 or so experiences with NAPA, but they always seem to be the top notch guys. Advance Auto Parts is some teenagers who don't know the difference between motor oil and olive oil. All they sell is chrome BS. Autozone is...laughable. That's all I can say. To me, Napa has employees who actually know the basics of a car. They can tell you the components of front end suspension, they can explain to you the difference between 5w-30 and 10w-40 oil, and stuff like that. I don't want to rant about car parts retailers... Yes, you will get an education pretty fast around here. Towncivilian is your go-to-guy for chemical make-ups and things like that. You might want to check out Bobistheoilguy if you are into that kind of stuff. Some real scholars over there. You definitely need an additive. For any LSD as far as I'm concerned. These Pathfinders need them for sure. No two ways about it. I'm not sure what the additive does or prevents, or how it works or what it is composed of, but your differential will deteriorate eventually if you don't use it. The guy at NAPA might just not know that much about LSDs. Not a big deal. Everyone can try to tell you something that they are completely wrong/mistaken about. I know I'm guilty of it especially on this forum and people have set me straight. If you have questions, just come here and get straitened out.

tapping the brakes to regain traction is an old trick, but it's kind of a ghetto way to do it. Tapping the brakes will apply on a lot of vehicles. LSD or not. Me replying to this isn't for Heloflyboy because I'm pretty sure he's a pro off-roader. There is a thread about LSDs. It's not a great thread, and it doesn't say much about them at all, but still take a look http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18691 pinion seals leaking? hmm. I generally know how differentials work, but I don't know about seals in them. Anyway, be careful with that Lucas stuff. I'm sure Towncivilian will come around and educate you soon enough. Yes, it is true that if you have an LSD you need an LSD additive. I don't know what brand of oil you used, but I would think that "ok for use with LSD" is different than LSD additive. If you have $20 to spare, refill your rear diff with Mobil 1 75w90. Oh yeah. I know someone is going to make a drug reference, so might as well be me. Not sure if your LSD is working? Is your reality always that warped?

I had the same question. I did a quick google search and a youtube video explained it pretty well. Apparently, you want to eliminate your slip yoke when you lift your vehicle. The slip yoke is like a little bit if extra length that your driveshaft can extend. For bumps and stuff I guess. When you lift your vehicle, your driveshaft is now at an angle. The transmission is higher than the differential so it has to bend differently AND stretch. 1 or 2 inches of lift is no big deal, but if you do like 4 inches, then you start having problems. The angel would become so severe, that the u-joints would become weak. Also, in this video (referring to older Jeeps YJs I think he said), the driveshafts would extend so much that they would actually slip out of the transmission a tiny bit and in certain gears, it wouldn't go into gear and it would damage the trans. Take a look, it seems to make sense, but they are very expensive. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSi1dITVPB0

Wow. This is truly amazing craftsmanship. This looks perfect. I can't even tell except for on the last picture. On the last picture, I can only see a slight difference when I look closely. Like Adamzan said, I think this difference in texture would not be noticeable after some clear coat. My friend did the same thing (repainting, not rebuilding rust into perfection) and the repainted area had different characteristics. On the repainted area, I could see the grain and how he painted it. Also, if it got wet, the water would stick to the paint, while on the factory painted areas it would roll off. When he put a few layers of clear coat on, it looked stock. I thought it was good at body work until I saw this. Kudos on taking scraps of rust and turning them into a make over.

hey Town, thanks for clearing that up. You're the best at explaining things properly. I just thought it was a frame because it looks almost identical to my truck. When I look through the wheel-well, I see the strut, the strut bracket, the frame, and the brake line. I thought only passenger cars and things of that nature were unibody and anything else had frame rails I guess where I heard this was in context to older vehicles. I really liked some R50s I've seen. I thought about getting one 5 years in the future, but it seems this is a much larger problem than anyone realizes. This reminds me of the chevy vega problem. Can't this be prevented by religious cleaning and maintenance? I feel bad because this is just another blow for Nissan. I know they are trying (well maybe not so much with the newest Pathys), but this is just another strike against them. Anyway, OP, do you have any before and after pics?

it was a lot of words and no pictures. calm yer ****. I read the linked thread and I saw plenty of horror stories of people's Pathfinders being taken from them because someone deemed the truck totaled. I didn't known the word frame was interchangeable with strut.

I can't see the 2nd picture but... Is that strut rot or FRAME rot?

whoa dude. get off mah stuff! I didn't think people could see that. This video was a very poorly put together school project. I didn't know how to use green screen. I tried and it failed horribly.

Older Nissans and Datsuns (probably all older cars) are very prone to melted/warped speedo needles. A truck, especially a 24 year old one, has probably been in the sun for a lot of its life and the plastic on the speedo needle warped. I have see them warped beyond belief, but I have also seen them warped so slightly that you can't even tell. It's so subtle, that you can't even tell, but the needle is rubbing and catching on the plastic that makes up the gauge. The needle well increase just fine, to 70mph you said, but it will catch and jump down and eventually will stop moving at 30mph you said. Also, the pin/rod that attaches the needle to the mechanism behind the gauge may be bent. The bent pin in combination with the warped needle might be your problem. I can see the sun-faded paint on the hood, and the general condition of the vehicle. It was ridden hard and put away wet. I don't think any possibilities can be ruled out without being checked. All of the Pathfinders had manual speedometer cables until 1994. That's when Nissan implemented electronic speed measuring. A 1987 Pathfinder would have a speedometer cable, but I don't think it could go bad in the way you might be thinking. The cable could have stretched or frayed, but in that case it wouldn't work at all.

what controls where the flow if air goes is a white circular mechanism that is moved by a cable. When you move the dial from defrost to head & feet, the cable spins this circular thing in a different direction which shuts off the defroster vents while opening up the dash vents. If you only have air at the defrost vents, then something may be faulty with that mechanism. It's right above the gas pedal secured to the center console thing where your radio is. Just give it a look over.

What is going on here?

I saw Royal Purple at my local Advance Auto Parts also. Which is funny because it's a new location so they barely have any useful product on hand. I knew the Royal Purple would work without even looking at the bottle. If there is a branch of Gl-5 (mt-1) that is compatible, then you know that Royal Purple damn well better have the best formulas at $20 per quart. I just didn't want to spend $150 on t-case and trans oil changes.

I completely understand what situation you are in with the apartment complex. I live in one too and I can't do anything to my truck except change a tire. I know what you said, and I was trying to give you methods that might help you get around your unknown snag.

So it sounds like you're trying to lower the engine into place, then line it up with and connect the transmission, THEN bolt the engine down? I read your posts a few times over, and it seems to me that you might be trying to adjust and maneuver too many things at once without having anything bolted down for a fixed position. Is that input shaft supposed to just come out like that? When I had my trans out, I never tried to mess with the input shaft, but it would seem that it wouldn't just come out as easily as that. Did you actually bend and ruin the input shaft, or is it just lodged in the TC in a weird way? When you have a snag, do you have to completely remove the engine again? Like when you took out that input shaft, you had to re-hoist the engine up and investigate? Based on how I removed my transmission, consider these options If you have the clearance, I think you should bolt the flywheel/flexplate whatever to the engine prior to installation. Then bolt the TC to the flywheel. I think this will make lining up the transmission much easier. Also, bolting up a TC while the engine is in would be murder. So then you are 100% certain that the TC fits properly. And it spins properly and all of that. That's when you slid the transmission into place. Just put the transmission on a jack and slide it forward. Since you can't really get in there and see the input shaft going into the TC, you want to match up the bell housing to the engine block. Match the top of the trans to where it's supposed to go. Match the bottom to the bottom. Get in the cab and use the t-case shift to maneuver the transmission left or right if it is slightly off course. Oh yeah, it sounds like you previously had a problem with getting the shafts lined up notch for notch. The notches on the shafts have to line up. They only do that 2 or 4 times per revolution, for example. If they don't line up, don't force it. Just get someone to put a 1-1/16 (?) socket on the crank pulley and turn the engine over until it slides in. I know this is long, but it sounds like you need all the help you can get. You asked how you could most quickly install an engine, but ironically, it's taken you 3 months. I can tell you have some significant level of mechanical knowledge, but there must be something that's slapping you in the face that you just can't see. Honestly, it seems to me that you're trying to do this the craziest way possible. I know I only removed an auto trans, and put a M/T, so I don't know how to install an A/T, but the transmission should be by itself. You still have like 5 or 6 inches of clearance with the trans, and you just pop it into place. What I recommended that you do is exactly how I removed my trans in reverse. Because I was so stubborn and didn't want to remove the torsion bars, I actually removed and re-installed my trans like 3 times.

My mouth doesn't type. But I get your point. You're right. Sorry for the over-activity. This forum is just something new for me. I'll tone it down. Maybe even in a few weeks I'll get bored and leave. Anyway Towncivilian, the BFGs are highly praised, but they would be overkill if you never go off road. Besides, you seem like the type of guy who would be more interested in the chemical composition of the rubber. Tell us how the Yokohamas turn out.

I like how the camera was shaky at 0mph, but it was solid and steady at 90mph. That's a pretty nice sound by the way. Kefferjoe, do you have anything except the flowmaster muffler? Headers perhaps? or are you not allowed to do that because of the pre-cats? Sounds like that would mess your emissions up pretty badly.

the crank pulley? the thing that all the belts run off of? How would that pulley affect how your engine fires? the crank will spin no matter what.

man this is crazy. I have some mismatched semi-worn BFGs and Goodyear Wranglers. They are both mud + snow tires and they look very meaty, but they are wearing down. I think the two back ones are 30% and 50%, the front ones are like 70% and 20%. Unless I floor it, they still have amazing traction. Today I went drifting in an open parking lot and I could only spin wheels into 3rd gear. I think BFGs are a very good option. You can get re-treads for only about $90 a piece. Then you will do well in the mud, the snow, the rain, and in general they will have great traction.

my vg is deafening at 5,000 rpm.. it just gets deep-loud until 3k, then it gets high pitched loud and from there it just gets higher pitched and louder.

That's actually a good idea, but why would you ever have to drain your fluid out only to put it right back in a few seconds later?