1994SEV6

you can hear the ticking at ANY engine speed??

hmmm. That's interesting. I think lifters are more of a BS excuse. Sorta like "rod knock". It's just some excuse that a mechanic can use. Of course, sticky lifters and rod knocks can certainly happen, but it's more of a go-to diagnosis. Yeah, the ticking is pretty damn annoying. I left this thread abandoned until I could find a way to remove my other belts. My P/S bracket is a little boogered up. I hadn't noticed the engine braking, I'll have to concentrate. Well actually, if I think about it, of course the noise wouldn't be there. The ticking is only audible below ~1800RPM. After ~1800RPM, it becomes too fast to hear the individual ticks, so it's just one mushed noise. When you engine brake, you aren't usually ever below 1800RPM. At 1800RPM, engine braking wouldn't have a function.

LOL! yeah.. porno grunting. Makin' love to my red beauty. My torsion bars are cranked down a little bit (I haven't gotten around to adjusting them) so I just BARELY fit under the front of it. That and it was cold as hell. I don't have rear disk brakes. I have drums. I'm not sure you even asked actually, but whatev. I don't think any HBs came with disks, just some Pathys. I don't know what the system for disk brakes is. Did they only come on high trim levels or 2wd or what? I think it's because of my whole rear end set up that doing a disk brake swap is so hard. For PFs it's not too bad, but apparently it's hell with a HB, or so I've read. Foot activation? I thought only american cars and new imports had those? I hate that kind. My dad has a 79 Trans am with a clutch AND the foot parking brake. 4 PEDALS?!?!?!?! what is this I don't even... Nah, I got that airplane style parking brake. I thought that's what you guys wanted to swap in?

might be a 15 gallon tank. when it's on E, you usually still have ~3 gallons left. Possibly, 12 + 3= 15? Because I know there are 21 and 15 gal tanks. I think they tended to use the smaller tanks on the 4cyl models.

Ok. I made a video. It's finally up on youtube, but it's processing a little bit. Towards the end, the audio gets messed up. Youtube did this. I don't know what happened. I followed the whole system from start to finish. Now that I think about it, I didn't really include the mechanism for the parking brake itself. It's bolt-on, so NBD. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-nxm2-UDqI Where I show you were the cable comes out of the cab, the Pathfinders will probably have a cover plate. Just unbolt the cover plate and then you have access. That's how it was with my clutch pedal. The audio is actually really messed up by youtube. The volume goes up and down, so watch out.

I think it's obvious that you need to replace the relay. Relays have some electrical grease inside of them to prevent corrosion and to assist in proper function. Over time, this grease may dry out or whatever may happen. Relays can go bad and stop working just like switches inside the car. Go get a relay from a junkyard or get one from the dealer if you have $8 or so to spare. What the relay does is allow power to the starter. I'm a little fuzzy on how current going to the starter not being used would drain your battery. The click when you connect the battery is convincing enough, but your battery was probably bad. When you drain a battery once, you damage it. You can recharge it, but the cranking amps will be very limited. From then on, you will probably often need the charger even if nothing is sapping power. If you want to be 100% sure that it's the relay before taking a trip to the JY or the dealer, then take it apart for inspection. Take it out of the bay where it's plugged in. Take the cap off and see how well the terminals slide back and forth.

Hey there. Welcome to NPORA. Glad to hear you've come over to the light side. We have good vehicles. Yes, most, if not all of the bolts and nuts and any other fasteners should be metric. That's true for mid-90s Nissans, and it's probably true for the newer ones. I think even a lot of the American cars are now using metric. Around here, we like to call 1996-2004 Pathfinders "R50s". If you want to start learning about Nissan problems, then I suggest you check your strut housings for rust on the unibody.

I don't think "kids" is the right word here, especially dealing with Hondas, but this is correct. A spring isn't just a piece of metal. It has very special characteristics, making it a spring. If you heat and warp and spring, it is no longer a spring. It is now just a coiled piece of metal with no purpose. I just wanted to clarify that since your coils do look pretty bad. You should get those fixed. I read the whole thread and it went from you asking if it was OK to drive around with 2" lifted in the rear, with stock in the front; to bushings; to your sabotaged rear suspension; to your panhard bar. I think what you really want to know is if you can put the lifted springs in and be ok. I don't know if you have gotten this resolved, but looking at your current situation, I don't think it could do much more damage. I don't know if R50s have torsion bars, but if they do, then just crank them up for now. Put the 2" lift springs in the back, and crank up your torsion bars if you're worried about it. I'm not saying it's a permanent solution, but it would work for the 2 weeks or however long it would take to get the rest of the lift set.

Was randomly looking through craigslist and saw this 93 ext. cab, 4x4, SEV6, AND it's a stick he's asking for $2300 and it looks damn good.

that's actually really nice! Now you're ready to rock out. I'm thinking about doing the same thing for the ext. cab of my hardbody since I have the trans tunnel. I got this 600w amp in some weird trade and building a car audio system isn't even that expensive. Time to get to work!

First of all, I love your name. Tasteful. Second of all, 98,000km?!!? wow. That's like 43k miles or something. That IS really low. Hmm. Your problem sounds like it might be air flow related. I think you already think this which is why you're leaning towards the O2 sensor. How about this; go check your MAF. It's that thing on the airbox with the wire coming out. Just take it off, inspect it, and maybe give it a gentle cleaning. Check this out

hmm. cool little trick. I'll have to add that to spraying WD-40 or PB on the key to prevent freezing locks. I see what you did there. So, I just forced myself to go out and finally fix my blower motor. I've been using that excuse for too long. My mom: so what are you doing now? Me: getting leaves out of my blower motor *gone for 3 hours* next day. my mom: what are you doing now? me: getting leaves out of my blower motor. My mom: I thought you did that yesterday! me: uhh, yeah..um. I had to research how to do it. It's not as easy as I thought. I'm sure you guys on here don't need explaining about that. You know how it is. I went out there. Did it in 5 minutes actually. 3 screws and a power plug. Had some old dry leaves in there. picked them out. Blower sounds smooth now.

but oil deteriorates rubber.

Pam? like the..cooking spray?

is it really? nice hat bro

it's ok. I think you just wanted to believe that Nissan still used the VGs. I want to believe it. Anyways, today I replaced my leaking caliper. Yay for safety. Yay for not having to fill up brake fluid once a week. Yay for not having paint-eating fluid being flung around my wheelwell.

what do you mean I lied? Nowhere on that website did it say "Vg". If you think I'm lying because it has a "3 litre motor", then you need to become acquainted with the VQ30DE. nope. YOU lied. link

I'm pretty sure Maximas after 95 didn't use the VG. I'm pretty sure they used the VQ. Yep. Just double checked. The only things that Nissan put the VGs in AFTER 94 were the Quest (I think. Up until 98), the trucks, and I think that's it. Toyota has head gasket issues on a few (one or two) other engines, too. The 7M was by far the worst though. The bolts were undertorqued something significant like 30ft-lbs.

lolwut? are you sure you know what you're talking about? You can get BUILT Cherokees for like $3500. Dana swaps, 6in lift, like 35in tires. completely decked out for nothing. Cherokees are about the same prices as WD21s. For jeeps, there is MUCH MUCH MUCH more variety in parts. Expensive jeeps? I think you're thinking of wrangers that are expensive for no reason. Subarus? problems? those two words don't go together. Nothing else needs to be said about Subarus. Head gasket problems? I think you mean Toyota. DUDE NICE!! That's a really good idea. It's not like you can use that space for anything else considering the awkwardness of the wheelwell. Very good use of space

lol biased much?

funny how that works, huh? yep. I've read it. self adjusting brakes. might only be the rears though

lol... $400. that joke is even funnier than the $40 diagnosis. GTFO "stereo shop". Just get a new headunit. You can get a really good sony headunit for like $60.

oh ok. In that case, I'll have to order about 6 of these gauge pod thingys. I'mma need that trans temp gauge, that volt meter, that vacuum gauge, that oil pressure gauge, that oil temp gauge, that aftermarket tach WITH shift light built in, that inclinometer, that water temp gauge, that secondary fuel gauge, that reserve fuel gauge, that fuel pressure gauge, that redneck gauge, that tire pressure gauge, and a clock.

ohhhhhh ok. The ABS and Brake lights BOTH being on is pretty classic of having low fluid or air in the lines. Check the reservoir. The lights going on and off might be a loose sensor or maybe possibly fluid sloshing around?

It seems like you have a few problems going on at the same time. You have: 1) lights going on and off 2)check engine light 3)ABS and Brake light 4) wheel bearing/front end things usually when both the ABS and brake lights come on and the parking brake isn't on, your brake fluid is low. You might want to check it. If the fluid isn't low, then you might have air in the lines. This has happened to me on three occasions and and the brake fluid fixed it. This has always happened with 2 other vehicles I've worked on. I might be wrong, but brake problems don't set off the CEL. Your CEL is going on and off. You might want to check why. I have a feeling it's unrelated to the rest of your problems. Your lights are going off when you turn right? sounds like a loose wire. I don't know how turning your wheels would knock something loose. Maybe something running across your steering column? you should go ahead and repack your wheel bearings. I think there's a thread on here on how to do it.