Trogdor636

I want to like the Juke. AWD, turbo.....then I look at it from the front.

Lucky you guys hit town before the BART strike. So you didn't even try to rent a car I'm guessing?

Its bad enough Nismo makes parts for the Versa. A Juke? It could of been cool, but that front end is something only a mother could love.

I drove around without one when mine exploded. Drove fine, just no speedo and a CEL.

It's actually not bad to change that hose. Pretty common tools, its just more of a pain and time to take off the belts, upper pulley etc to change it. I sure as hell wouldn't drive it that far with a leaky hose. Sure it could be fine, but if its not, your in worse shape.

I sort of agree with Tungsten. Being that its leaking at the bypass hose the temp sensor could be causing the problems. It might not be able to really get a good reading. In my opinion I wouldn't try to drive it that far. A pinhole leak can become a giant leak pretty quickly. Gotta do what you gotta do I guess. Good luck man.

I've driven both, I don't think its a big difference at all. If you were towing I could see it being worth the upgrade for sure.

As far as brands, IMO, its red (Lincoln) vs blue (Miller) and a Hobart is technically a Miller, Miller bought them out. Don't worry about brands, just stick to those though. No Harbor Freight, Auto Arc, Century, stay away from that stuff. This is my opinion. Somebody may love their Craftsman or Snap On but I'd stick to those 3. Short and sweet, I'd look for a used unit. I think a Miller 135 is the bees knees for what you are looking for. Don't be scared of used welders, basically just try the unit out. If they don't let you, don't buy it. Used is also good because normally you can also get the bottle, gloves, hood etc with it. But if you must have new, that Hobart is a fine choice. The Lincolns from Lowes/Home Depot aren't bad either, but I've read different things about how they aren't made quite as nice as what your local welding shops (LWS) will get. Also, check with them. My shop will sometime have refurb units for a good price or have a really good deal and may even throw in gloves/hood. Also, do you have a local community college that teaches welding? They may not let you jump into TIG, but you'll learn a lot wherever you start (they may make you take gas/stick even before MIG) and you'll get your money back using their gas/rods/wire/scrap metal etc.

For the pinion gear, your parts guy should be able to look up the correct number of teeth you need. You could PM Alkorahil here, he's our Nissan parts guy who is in Texas as well.

GMC Syclone. You didn't set a price range, so I went big.

Makes sense know that you say you have the completely stripped down model. I've only seen 3-4 non power window/lock 4 door Pathys before. I think 3 of those were 2WD. A few more stripped model 2WD, always the Z24 model.

If you have a Napa nearby, take that clip in and look for a giant turnstile rack of clips, or ask a guy at the counter. They had gobs of different little clips like that for all different makes and models.

I'd only use a genuine Nissan temp sensor as well. The aftermarket ones didn't work for me.

Not many of the WD21 crowd run 16's though, that's why a separate thread may get more looks.

I think the underside of yours is cleaner than the upper body of mine.

Good point, the Hardbody and Pathfinder side markers are slightly different. I went to a Pathfinder grille on my Hardbody and I just trimmed them, but going the other way probably leaves a gap.

Might want to start a different thread on what 16 to run on your WD21, since this thread is called need new 31x10.50x15. Not sure how many members run 16's on a WD21 but you should get some suggestions. Oh, and a 285/75/16 is like a 33, so unless you have a lift its probably a bit too big unless you are gonna trim.

I'm pulling every window popper from every junkyard Pathfinder I see. Big money to be made!

I think you are missing the part where his switch works. Its a piece inside the tranny that wears down. I'd say buy a new switch and compare it to your old switch, maybe the button is longer?

Not the first time! Few others around here with similar stories. Sorry to hear about luck.

That was my guess. Looks neat though.

If its not a really close friend, I'm always happy to let them take it to a shop. Less work for me!

I just meant in general some people can fail inspections for it so its a good thing to fix. I tired 3 different switches before My1path suggested how he did it. That's what fixed it for me

If you have dark tinted windows, or wheel when its dark, backup lights are a good thing to have. Tapping the horn doesn't make you not at fault if you run into/over something you can't see. Some states have an inspection where your backup lights have to work as well.

Which is why I said he would want the 5x7 lights out of the ones he listed.....