RF600

Unless I have the wrong idea copyright infringement. It only applies to something copied, exactly, and sold for profit. So I think they are reaching, a lot, for copyright issues. All we are doing is fixing what is broken, or replacing broken items. I'm not buying the copyright thing.

I had a bad sender on my brother's rig. Even though you have cleaned up the resistor board it may not work. Take a multimeter with you if you go after a used sender. I recommend not letting the fuel tank go under 1/4 tank. The fuel should keep the board lubed.

When the shtf we will all head your way. $6500 for 30 acres, yeah not possible in ca. I don't think $6500 would buy much of anything here. Good for you.

Rant on, Just because someone works at a dealer, doesn't mean they are any good. When I worked at a dealer, parts dept, I knew more than some of the techs. Sometimes parts were redesigned and instructions were included. You might be surprising how many of them wouldn't read the directions or not be intuitive enough to figure it out. So to say that the dealer knows more than we do, I think is funny. They may have the fancy tools that we don't, but I think most of us do quite well without the tools. Rant off.

The achilles heel of BMW is the cooling system. People say anywhere from 60-80k is the life span. That number is not quite accurate. I say that because I just picked up a Z3(only because I got such a good deal) with 130k on it and I noticed the radiator is now starting to go. BMW's cooling system is about 30psi. Back on topic, so I can understand the dealers concern, but it doesn't make sense. Granted I wouldn't waste money on a new car. I purchase something, but it isn't mine? So does that mean I can't put different wheels on it? If you want to get stupid one probably couldn't put seat covers on. Technically you are altering the factory seat. I have other stupid ideas but I would rather not put them on a public forum. Not to be paranoid but you never know who is poking around and where.

There is a ground on the core support on the drivers side. I put the ground there. My logic was, since there was an existing ground why not take advantage of it. Tap into the correct wire on the maf. Run a new wire to a point on the chassis. I chose to use a heat shrink end connector. I also put a new connector on the maf. It is much easier to remove. No stupid clip to try and put back on. It is from Napa, EC173.

The IAC valve has a controller. There is a test in the manual. Not saying that is the problem. Something to check. Have you added an additional ground to the maf? It may not fix it but a good thing to do.

Start them out young. Congratulations.

Napa sells a new connector, EC173.

Check out Monsta Liner. They have different colors. Their Web site shows off people who have done the entire outside of the vehicle. Once my paint gets bad, it's getting there, I'm planning a Monsta Liner make over.

I bought a clutch kit from the dealer. It is a really soft pedal. Noticeably lighter than what I took out. The clutch I removed was a nissan clutch. I put a napa clutch in my brother's pathfinder and it has more pressure. Weird how different companies make the same thing but so different. I wasn't having any pedal issues so I didn't bleed it when I finished. Smooth, kind of. Working by yourself is a bit rough. I did have my buddy help me mate the trans back to the engine. Other than that it was a 2 full day job. I'm a bit worn out and some sore muscles. Hopefully this helps out some people who are looking to do this. 4x2 is cake compared. The transmission on these rigs are heavy, very heavy. More things to deal with on the 4x4. I didn't have to remove the torsion bars on a 4x2. I'm glad I changed it when I did. It was really close to the rivets, but didn't wear into the flywheel. Therefore I wasn't worried about not turning the flywheel.

I can't edit my post? I also need to mention that there is a bracket on the drivers side of the engine. It has 2 bolts that go in the opposite direction from the rest of the bell housing bolts. I have a body lift on my rig. It will help when sliding the trans and xfer case back. Without the body lift it will take a bit more work. The bell housing bolts will be a little more difficult to remove. You may have to work the trans a little more to get it to clear the body when sliding it back.

Here is my write up for a clutch replacement on a 95 4x4. I didn't drop the trans and xfer case. I just slid it back. I didn't include a pic for every step. I only have a pic of what needs to be removed. I will put the pic at the end. If you are going to replace your clutch I assume you know what things are. Measure the current ride height. Write it down. I used the body line as a measure point. Disconnect the battery. Jack up the front and remove the wheels. Lower it back down some and place on jack stands. Mark the torsion bars. You want to put them back in the same spot. Remove the torsion bars and torsion bar cross member. Now is a good time to replace the dust boots on the bars if they have fallen off. Remove the front drive line. Remove the exhaust. Remove the rear drive line. Put a plug in the transfer case or you will lose some fluid. I used a motorcycle jack to support the transmission and transfer case. I also used ratchet straps to keeps things where I wanted them. Remove the trans cross member. Remove the bell housing bolts. There are 2 bolts is weird places. Both go in the opposite direction compared to the rest of the bell housing bolts. 1 is under the starter. Yes you should completely remove the starter. 1 is under the oil switch, next to the oil filter. You can gain access through the fender well. There is also a bracket on the drivers side of the engine. It has 2 bolts that go in the opposite direction from the rest of the bell housing bolts. Disconnect the connectors at the trans. There are some wires attached to the trans. They are attached by tabs that are bent to hold them. Unbend and move out of the way. After everything is removed slide the trans and xfer case back. It will take some moving around to get it slid back. Keep in mind of where the rear of the xfer case is. It will have to go through the drive line safety loop. I have a body lift on my rig. It will help when sliding the trans and xfer case back. Without the body lift it will take a bit more work. The bell housing bolts will be a little more difficult to remove. You may have to work the trans a little more to get it to clear the body when sliding it back. Remove the pressure plate and disc. Remove the flywheel. If your rear main is leaking now is a time to replace it. I there are any exposed wires. Now is a good time to fix them. Also replace any loom that has cracked, and or missing. Remove the pilot bushing. The grease method didn't work for me so I had to use a chisel. Install pilot bushing. The flywheel doesn't always need to be turned. Mine wasn't bad so I used a random orbital sander and roughed up the surface with some 120. You just want to take the old surface off. Not too much. Remove the throw out bearing. Most clutch kits don't include the sleeve so you have to remove the sleeve and reuse it. Make sure the throw out bearing is on the fork properly and operates properly before you mate the trans back to the engine. You don't want to have to do it again. Put flywheel back on. Torque to spec. Install the disc with the alignment tool. Put on the pressure plate. Torque the pressure plate bolts to spec. Remove the alignment tool. Lube the input shaft before mating the trans to the engine. After you are sure things are done and torqued down, time to mate the trans to the engine. This is where it helps to have a friend assist. Stabbing it by yourself can be done. It will be a bit more frustrating. After the trans is mated to the engine put the trans cross member in and remove the jack. From there put things back together. The last thing to put on is the torsion bars. With the torsion bars off it is easier to get to the exhaust bolts. Here is the pic of what needs to be removed. Afterward enjoy some beverages of your choice and consider you didn't spend a butt load of money paying someone to do it

Oops. Well the thought was there. More suspension lift then.

Body lift time. My tires were rubbing. Body lift solved the problem. Looks better also. I went with a 2" lift.

You know what lifetime warranty means? You spend your lifetime changing it! Kidding. I'm going to change mine this weekend.

Also let's face it, the magazines have high dollar rigs. I don't have that kind of money. I'm not jealous. I prefer to think a little more practical.

I thought about searching for this but had no idea what to search for. For those of us who have body lifts, has anyone had issues with the rubber intake boot? I know the guys with a 3" body lift, the intake is bent quite a bit. I was thinking about a wedge to be placed between the air box and the piece that the maf connects to, or a wedge between the throttle body and intake. That would take the bend out of the boot. I don't know if that would have any ill effects on the maf. Does anyone with more knowledge know if it would work?

I wish they would use factory bodies. Not templates. I don't watch much anymore. Makes me dizzy. Lol

Most of out tachometers don't work, or work intermittently.

I can't answer that question. What I can say about connectors that are not used. Most manufactures make 1 harness for their vehicles. It's easier to make 1 rather than multiple harnesses. If you look around the vehicle you will find multiple connectors not used. I know that doesn't answer your question. I wasn't sure if you were aware.

I drove a friend's sion. The box looking car. It had some get up and go to it, but not impressed.

She had a Ford Escape and sold it. It was giving her issues the dealer couldn't figure out. I have looked at a few small suv types. CRV seems to be the best of the bunch. I would prefer something I am familiar with. I can save her some money by doing the work myself. That's why I was asking about other Nissan vehicles. B I will look into the r50. Thanks for the help all.

My mom is going to be looking for a vehicle soon. She needs something that sits up higher than a car. Something like a crossover or suv. I don't have much experience with other Nissan vehicles besides my 95 Pathfinder. If you have a recommendation of a vehicle please give me some info on it. What to look out for, maintenance issues, or lack of. Does it have a timing belt or chain. If it has a belt I will have to do the work on it. I want to know what I'm getting into. Something with an automatic trans. Are all Nissan auto trans subject to the cooler failing and ruining the trans? Something with good mileage, at least 25+ mpg. I was thinking the Murano but not sure about the CVT trans. I'm going to guess and say less than 10k. Don't need 4x4. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Creative. That might be the best redneck fix i have seen.