RF600

It all depends on condition. I paid $1300 for my 95 4x4 about 5 years ago. I haven't paid attention to prices lately. The resale on the pathfinder doesn't seem to be as high as other 4x4's. Which is sad because the other 4x4 I speak of pops head gaskets and they are higher priced. Higher than what I would pay. I know that's not much help. Figure out what the weather is like where you are moving, decide what vehicle you need, and go from there.

Check the idle air control valve

That depends on your listening preferences.

This ^. I ran all new wires when I did my stereo install. I didn't run the front speaker wire through the existing loom. I ran new wires and poked through the grommets. Zip tied to the existing loom.

When doing the body lift, make sure to remove the upper radiator hose, where the upper hose connects to the radiator, it could crack. You may also have to rotate it some so the angle doesn't stress the plastic.

If I understand correctly, you set the timing mark at 12 on the balancer, then stabbed the distributor? If so set it balancer at 0 then stab the distributor. Then time it.

Take the wheels off. Sit the vehicle as low to the ground as you can. That will help when using a floor jack. Use some long boards to put against the body to distribute the load. Be prepared for the body to shift some. Like B said, You may need a come along or another vehicle to help shift the body.

Don't silicone the hole on the starter. That is a drain. If you plug it and take on water, well you should be able to figure out the rest. Honestly I didn't read the whole thing. It's really difficult to read without paragraphs. Just trying to help.

I assume the cylinder is not working? If so take the cylinder out and attempt to clean it. If it is frozen you will have to get a new one and have it keyed to your current key. Until then crawl through the passenger side.

Is there a reason you want 33's? 31's fit nicely and don't require upper control arms when going with a 3" suspension lift. I have a 2" suspension lift with a 2" body lift. Aftermarket wheels and 31" tires. No rubbing. No messing with the speedometer. I'm not trying to convince you to do something different. Just an example.

When I was looking for a 4x4 I narrowed it down to the 4 runner and a pathfinder. I went with the pathfinder because of the engine. I have not taken it out on a hard core trail. It has done everything I have asked of it. So unfortunately for those who haven't experienced the pathfinder, sorry you are missing out.

I still have to make front and rear bumpers to compensate for the body lift.

Did you fix it? What starter did you put in it? If it is an Autozone or equivalent, it might be bad. They say there parts have a lifetime warranty. You spend your lifetime replacing them.

Wiring isn't that bad. It is time consuming. Can be frustrating. I still get confused on wiring. It's not easy. Glad that is was an easy fix. Hopefully the new harness fixes it. Please reply back and let everyone know.

I forgot something. Ground clearance is relative. Yes you will gain some clearance. The differentials will still be low. The transfer case will still be low. Unless you are looking for a hard core trail rig, it is mostly for looks. IMHO

I did both on my rig. I did the suspension lift first. It was approx 2" lift. I had some wheel issues and put some aftermarket wheels on. The offset was different and the wheel stuck out more. With the 31" tires on the aftermarket wheels it would rub when turning. So I was forced, if you will, to put a body lift on. It was a 2" body lift. Honestly I like the look of 2" suspension and 2" body lift. It also gives a little space between the nerf bar and the body.

Good to hear you got it figured out.

If fluid is leaking the boots are torn. The first sign of bad cv joints is that clicking noise. Sounds like they were bad before the lift. The easiest way is to replace the whole shaft.

Wheels are too big for sure. Pretty cool looking ride.

The idler pulley bearing is sealed. It's best to replace it.

I don't recall the part number but just go to the dealer. It's not that much.

You have to make sure #1 is on TDC. Then stab the distributer. Then get a timing light and time it. You are probably 180 out.

I know this is old, is it fixed? If not try the idler pulley bearing.

If you have not painted anything yet, get some Adhesion Promoter. Go to your local paint shop and get some good rattle can paint. I painted the vinyl cover that covers the convertable top on my car with that stuff. If remaines flexable. Use the adhesion promoter first then paint.

Possible corrosion on the socket? My guess is there some resistance somewhere. Put more power to the wires and it pops the bulbs. The fuse should go first. Check the fuse. It sounds weird but maybe there is an issue with it?