RF600

I'm a tad over 221k. I plan to keep it for a long time. No reason to get rid of a vehicle that is paid for. I don't want payments, higher insurance, higher registration.

So after changing the items that needed attention there was still a vibration. I had nothing left to look at. I decided to call the place where I got the tires. They have what they called a road force balance. It can tell if there is a bad tire or not. Sure enough one tire was bad. So my vibration is gone. It is so nice to have a smooth drive.

5-30 synthetic.

That's the question I have been asking myself. I can only assume that it has always been there? I had a squeak when I first got the Pathfinder. I attribute the squeak to the vibration that caused some spot welds to break. I don't know for sure if it was from the vibration because I know the drivers fender had been replaced at some point before I bought it. Did that fender bender cause the welds to break, I don't know. I think the vibration got steadily worse until it is where it is now. I don't have another set of tires to verify that is not the problem. I may have to head up to B's place and swap tires to see if that is causing the vibration.

The ones that the shims go behind when doing an alignment? If so I just had another alignment done.

Yes. I marked both ends to make sure.

It doesn't start till ~60mph. It is a manual transmission and I have shifted into 5th during the vibration and still felt it with the clutch in. I did put the rear on jack stands and put it in 3rd gear and let it run. I looked to see if the rear wheels were moving. I did not see any movement. I did crawl under the truck and watch the drive line also. I didn't notice any movement. Maybe it wasn't spinning fast enough? I have not taken the driveline in to have it balanced after I replaced the u joints. That should probably be my next thing to do. Vibration doesn't change under power or off power. What has me stumped is it will start bad and then smooth out. Sometimes there will be a slight vibration and then it will get bad and then good. I would think if there is anything that was worn out it would be a constant vibration.

I had a chance to talk with the guy who did the alignment the things I have talked about the things I mentioned here. He thinks it is drive train related. I don't know where should I look first. Or what I should look for.

Single piston calipers often wear one side more than the other. They will also wear at an angle. The piston doesn't push straight out.

The vibration is still present. I made a brace from some 3/16 plate I had left over. Alignment tomorrow. Not sure what else I can do except live with it.

I replaced the tension rod bushings with poly. While I was there I replaced the upper bal joints. The upper joints we not bad. A little movement but not a lot. I took it on a small test drive. I still had a little vibration. I will drive it around more and see if it is better. If there is still a vibration, maybe a new idler arm is in order, maybe a brace?

I made my own grill guard. It was a small guard. I reinforced the back of the bumper with some square stock. Maybe this will give you some help. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36216-push-guard/

The joys of working on your own vehicle. Can you imagine what a shop would have charged you to find that out. Good work.

I ordered poly bushings. I am debating on ordering the races and going that route. Even if I don't have to put them in. I would assume that the races get welded to the tab that the tension rod goes through? Weld the races on both sides and install the tension rods?

Replace the cam and crank seals while you are there. Definately replace the bypass hoses. No need to go into things twice. Might as well replace the radiator hoses also.

I had similar issues. Check the Idle air control valve. There is a controller for the valve. The IAC valve is located under the intake on the drivers side. The controller for it is located next to the EGR valve. The service manual has the checks. Another thing to look at is the cam sensor. It's in the distributor. Add a ground to the MAF. Make sure you get the ground wire. If not things will melt.

The shake starts in the front and stays in the front. It did the same thing with the other wheels on also. I have replaced the lower ball joints when I did the half shafts. Tie rods are ok, not sloppy. The upper ball joints were ok at that time. I feel it in the whole truck. Mostly the front. I have searched tension bushings on the interwebs and there seems to be a lot of issues with them. That is what I will address next. Hopefully it won't take too long to get the parts. Not sure if I want to order the races before I dive into it, LM67010. There is no rust on the frame so I don't know if the metal behind the bushings will be rotten or not.

Well I am looking for some help on my wobbly rig. 95 Pathfinder 4x4, manual trans. I have aftermarket wheels. I have pulled the axles and looked to see the retainers came lose, they were fine. Replaced the u joints in the rear driveline. Replaced the center link and had an alignment. Half shafts replaced approx 1 year ago. Had the tires balanced more than once just in case. Wheel bearings were replaced a while ago. I put the rear on jack stands to possible see if there was a bent axle. Looked fine. While I was there I looked at the driveline, looked fine. It is not a constant vibration. I feel it about 60 mph. It will start out bad then smooth out, but still there. I think it is coming from the front end. Although I don't know. I am not sure what else could be causing the issue. Does anyone have any ideas????

+1

Most aftermarket cold air intakes look proper but usually end up pulling hot air from the engine compartment. They aren't isolated enough from the hot engine.

I either don't turn sharp, or I do and hear the tire hit the mud flap, or lift it some more. I would like to lift it a bit more. I think it would look better. I'm debating suspension or body lift. I don't like body lifts. If I was to do a body lift it wouldbe a 2".

One thing you might look at is the cam sensor. The sensor is located in the distributor. I had a strange issue around 2500-3000 rpm. It ended up being the cam sensor. If everything else checks out check that. My rig is a 95. I think they did the same thing back then.

The controller is on the left side of the engine next to the egr valve. It is a 2 prong connector. It is a tall piece that mounts to the intake. I went to the dealer for the controller. It's not cheap. Test it before buying a new one.

When you come to a stop it wants to die? Or is it while driving? I think the older Pathfinders are similar to the newer Pathfinders the way the engine is set up. If it does it when you are coming to a stop or at a stop it could be the IAC valve. There might be a controller for it also. There is a test in the service manual for checking that. I'm going off of a 95 Pathfinder. Mine was doing something similar.

The IAC valve is under the intake, in the back on the drivers side. You can't see it. There is a controller for the IAC valve also. There is a test in the service manual for the controller. I ended up replacing both IAC and controller on my rig. It's a 95.