RF600

The maf can lose its ground for some unknown reason. Add a new ground to the existing ground. You might look at the iac valve. That can cause idle issues.

What did it cost to do this? More info on the install please.

One thing to consider is the fuel cools and lubes the pump. If you are letting the fuel get that low you run the risk of premature pump failure. I'm not saying it will go out sooner, something to think about. I fill up after I get down to 1/4 tank.

I hate the placement of the filter. I put a remote filter on mine. Granted it sits straight not angled. My oil light does not stay on even when I go to the snow.

I'm more of a do it all so you know it has been done. Less to worry about. It is a bit more expensive to replace it all, especially if you pay to have it done. Don't be surprised if the shop wants to replace a lot of items. It doesn't help that I don't trust others to work on my vehicles unless I can't fix it myself. I like the boards here. Lots of helpful people.

My alt figured it would die on me today. I managed to get to the parts store before the battery completely died. I replaced the battery also. I'm glad these are pretty easy to work on. I changed the alt out in the dark. I did have a drop light though. The way I look at it, I own the vehicle, so no payment.

Consider tie rods and centerlink. I would jack the front up and let the tires hang off the ground. Grab each tire and move it side to side. You will see some movement if things are bad. Idler arms seem to hold up well. Like others I made my own idler arm brace. You can buy one if you don't have the skills to make one. Do you need one, probably not. I would replace upper and lower ball joints. While you are there repack the bearings. Inspect the bearing for wear before packing them. You can re index the torsion bars. If you do only go one tooth. If you have any boots missing on the bars change them. The dealer should still sell them. Inspect your cv shaft boots. If one is ripped I would just replace the whole shaft. Just easier and good insurance in case the joint has been exposed for a while. I could go on. My point is if you have never touched the front end, do it all. It will make the wife feel safer.

Lifetime warranty, translated means you spend your lifetime replacing the parts. Lol

I was young when we lived in Montana. It was cold and we didn't know any other weather.

I finally got around to putting on the 2" body lift. Made brackets for the ebrake cables and drive shaft safety loop. I put longer hoses on the power steering reservoir rather than drilling new holes. I have to have new hoses crimped for my remote oil filter mount. I installed the rear gap guards but not the front. I'm probably going to cut the front guards down and use the factory holes for mounting.

I have no more mountain blood left in me. When I travel to snow country I have to pack extra warm. It has been chilly here. 39°f at night. 50°f during the day. Yes that is chilly to me. Lol

I'm in the same boat as you. I do go to the snow sometimes. I do little off road. I went with a little less aggressive tire so I could head the radio when going down the road. I bought Hancook Dynapro AT. They clear the mud out of the tread well. I did plow through some deep snow and had no issues. I'm not saying to go buy them. Just a suggestion.

I replaced my bushings with poly. Was that better than rubber?

Pretty much sums it up.

I have a rancho stabilizer. I can't say I have notice a difference on the black top. I didn't take my rig off road before putting it on, so I can't comment there.

You might be money a head by going with manual hubs. This has not been proven but you might gain a small mpg gain. With manual hubs the front end is disengaged and not turning. One advantage is you are either locked or not.

^this.

Do you have the ability to make one yourself? $850 +shipping is money I don't want to spend. Have some buddies that can weld?

Agreed. This kind of thing is rare. Even if you put a 60 amp on it, it probably would not give you a problem. Good to hear it's fixed.

Check the fuseable links coming off of the battery. I believe it is the black conector. Possibly check where the connector bolts to the battery terminal. Clean it all up good. I'm not saying that will fix it, but it wouldn't hurt to check.

Glad you found it before you were going down the freeway and it came apart.

+2 on firing order especially if you removed all of the wires before changing the cap.

If the welds were before the cat it would dilute the readings.

Good point. I would also take the piece off of the battery terminal where the fuseable links mount. Give it a good cleaning. I had a headlight issue on my brother's pathfinder. The lights wouldn't turn on. Everything else worked fine. After removing and cleaning that piece the headlights worked again. What I'm trying to say is start with the easy stuff and work your way to the harder stuff. More times that not, it is the easy stuff that gives you the most issues.

You said you flushed the calipers. Did you check to see if the pistons in the calipers were stuck? That would cause a pull when braking. You can still run fluid through the hose with a stuck piston. If it a stuck piston I would rebuild it and get some fine steel wool to polish the piston if there is any rust or build up on the piston.