RF600

I slept better.

That's what I was thinking. Maybe the hot at the switch was for the turn signals? I'm happy that is one thing off my list of things to do.

OK it's fixed. I started from scratch. Making in sure power was getting from the battery to the fuse. It wasn't getting juice. The block that the fusible links hook up to was not making good contact. I pulled it off and it was a bit nasty. (Not Janet Jackson nasty). I cleaned it up and reconnect it to the battery. Headlights work. I guess the moral of this story is always start at the beginning. Thanks for the assistance.

This pathfinder I picked up for my brother. I have no history on it. I didn't use any cleaners on the switch. I did move the arms on the switch down some before putting it back together. All contacts are making contact. I have checked the fuses and they are fine.

I can't edit my previous post. When I'm checking power at the headlight plugs. For clarification when the low beam is on I have power at both legs on the passenger side. On the drivers side only 1 leg has power. When the high beam is on there is power on both sides of each plug.

That is some wicked articulation in the first pic.

The connector at the switch looks good. No corrosion, nothing bent or broken. Something I forgot to mention. When I checked power at the headlight plug, both sides had power with low beam on. I thought that only 1 leg had power at a time. When switching over to high beam it would drop one side and power up the other side.

I have searched and looked over the inter webs and not found a similar issue. My headlights will not turn on. Dash lights, park lights work. I pulled the switch and cleaned up the contacts. Still no headlights. I can jump the lights at the connector at the headlight switch and I can get the lights to come on. Thinking that jumping the lights at the connector, would make the switch bad. I purchased a new switch. No headlights. I have cleaned up body grounds. The plugs at the headlights are not melted. I am getting 12v at the connector. I don't know where else to check. Could it be as simple as needing to relay the headlights with a new harness? It is a 95 pathfinder 4x2, manual transmission.

4x4 parts also sells the aprons that are usually torn or missing. If I remember correctly it will cover up to a 3" body lift. I have not installed my body lift yet. Consider getting hard body shifters also. That will keep you from having to notch the floor.

When my starter was going out it would turn over slow. At times it would freeze and I would have to turn the key off and try again. It eventually just stopped working. It wouldn't even click.

On mine there is a switch next to the ebrake. I usually turn mine off unless I need to use it. As for disabling it I don't know.

Check the fuseable links that are mounted off of the positive battery cable.

I just went throught this. I replaced lots of things. Inspected other things. I was about to beat my head agains the wall. Turned out to be a bad tire. Call the place where you got your tires and ask if they have "road force balancing." I get my tires from America's Tire. They did the road force balance. Since I purchased wheels and tires they did not charge me for the test. Normally it would have cost me $80.

I have 7 on mine. I have a 95. Very confusing indeed. The marks on mine go like this. -5 0 5 10 15 20 25.

I'm glad it is fixed. It's one of those thing that drives you crazy because you know it shouldn't be doing that. So I am waiting on the call for my new tire. Speaking of that I need to call them because I have not heard from them yet.

The plastic ones, sorry. It only seems to be the upper is the one to break. I will eventually switch out the radiator. Still holding for now. Knock on wood.

How many have broken the top neck on the radiator? I for one do. I was wondering what type of clamp was used and possibly that is causing the problem? I had a worm clamp on mine. I'm thinking the factory spring clamp is a better way to go.

I use a torque wrench. I have had to break lugs from people hammering them on with an impact. Not fun.

Oops

So after changing the items that needed attention there was still a vibration. I had nothing left to look at. I decided to call the place where I got the tires. They have what they called a road force balance. It can tell if there is a bad tire or not. Sure enough one tire was bad. So my vibration is gone. It is so nice to have a smooth drive.

5-30 synthetic.

That's the question I have been asking myself. I can only assume that it has always been there? I had a squeak when I first got the Pathfinder. I attribute the squeak to the vibration that caused some spot welds to break. I don't know for sure if it was from the vibration because I know the drivers fender had been replaced at some point before I bought it. Did that fender bender cause the welds to break, I don't know. I think the vibration got steadily worse until it is where it is now. I don't have another set of tires to verify that is not the problem. I may have to head up to B's place and swap tires to see if that is causing the vibration.

The ones that the shims go behind when doing an alignment? If so I just had another alignment done.

Yes. I marked both ends to make sure.

It doesn't start till ~60mph. It is a manual transmission and I have shifted into 5th during the vibration and still felt it with the clutch in. I did put the rear on jack stands and put it in 3rd gear and let it run. I looked to see if the rear wheels were moving. I did not see any movement. I did crawl under the truck and watch the drive line also. I didn't notice any movement. Maybe it wasn't spinning fast enough? I have not taken the driveline in to have it balanced after I replaced the u joints. That should probably be my next thing to do. Vibration doesn't change under power or off power. What has me stumped is it will start bad and then smooth out. Sometimes there will be a slight vibration and then it will get bad and then good. I would think if there is anything that was worn out it would be a constant vibration.