RF600

On the other side of the mountain from Tahoe. My dad lives up hwy 70. I see your post. If it was a snake I would have died.

Precise1 I searched your used name and nothing came up. What section did you put it in? I don't do a lot of off road. Maybe a couple times a year in the snow.

WD, why, because that is what I have. I have not rode in a newer one.

31x10.50x15 Hankook Dynapro ATM on Legos. Small lift hopefully soon.

Thanks guys. My rockstar party days are over. Not as much fun as it used to be. Plus it takes a little longer to recover now that I am a bit older.

I have a 95 with the tire carrier on back. I just put on the proper sized tires and it need to be lifted some to make it look proper. I have been reading a lot about lifting the wd21. Most people are lifting 2"-3". I only want 1"-1 1/2". I have the .550 jgc springs. Which I think will give me the right lift. I do have a couple questions. 1. Do I need to worry about rear pan hard bar being not parallel to the axle? 2. Will this effect the ball joint angle on the control arm? 3. Is it better to crank on the stock torsion bars or get new ones? I know they will have to be re indexed. I have already cranked on them some to pick up the saggy front end. I have read that ball joint angle isn't affected until you go with a 2" or higher lift. Has anyone had issues with a small lift? I think I will be ok. I need some reassurance from some of you who have experience with this.

Finally put the proper size tires on. Got an extra lego wheel for a spare. I had to grind a little off of the spare tire holder lip so the hub cap would snap onto the wheel.

I have lug centric spacers on my car with no issues. Running 18" rims. I torque them down 3 different times. 1st is snug. 2nd is 30lbs. 3rd is 80lbs. I don't let the car sit on the ground when doing it. Kind of a pain but it works. If I don't do it right I get a vibration about 40. Torque in a star pattern. I also don't start and stop with the same nuts each time.

I was talking with a tech from Nissan and he recommended not using platinum plugs. There were platinum plugs in when I did my last tune up. I didn't have any problems with them. I put regular plugs back in.

That is the kit I used. If you go cloth braided it is easy to work with. I put an extra heat sleeve over my hoses. I had rubber lines made.

If you already have the wheels you can buy a bunch of flat washers. Put equal amounts on 3 or 4 studs. Put the wheel on and see where it sits. The washers are approx 2mm each. Add up the amount of washers and get spacers based on that. Spacers usually go in 5mm increments. Like 20, 25, 30. Obviously depending on the amount of spacers you may not be able to put the lug nut on and have it hold.

Sorry I misunderstood the question. I forget if I did or not. I believe the nipples are pipe thread.

There are 3 wires on the connector. You want the solid black wire. I perfer heat shrink butt connectors. There is a ground on the core support that I used. Add in your ground and attach to the existing ground. Attach the wire to the butt connector. Heat shrink and wrap with tape and be on your way. I bought a new connector when I did mine. A 3 wire TPS connector.

Like others have said you have to read what is and what is not covered. They might cover some internal items, but if you have a seal leaking that would be considered external, so that might no be covered. That was an example. If you can turn a wrench then I would say you can probably go without. Another think to think about. Some external warranties only pay so much per hour for labor. They might pay $50 an hour. The shop doing the work might be $80 per hour. You would have to make up the difference.

No thread sealant. The ends look like AN. The hose is rubber but I think it is like hydraulic hose. I put a heat shield around it because it is close to the exh manifold.

Added a ground to the maf connector. So far it's not wanting to die on me when I come to a stop. It acts like a iac valve was going out. Already replaced that.

I had my local Napa make the lines for me. I'm using 45* fittings on the adapter end. Straight on the end of the line.

This is gonna sound weird. I was having a similar issue. Would want to die when at a stop sign, not all the time though. Anyway I was reading through some older threads about this issue. A couple people had somehow figured out that the maf was dropping its ground at times. Their fix was to add a ground wire to the maf connector. After I put the extra ground in I am having no issues. Worth a try.

I thought it was fixed. Still having the same problem. I'm just dealing with it for the time being. One of these months when other things stop using my extra money I will attempt to deal with it. I'm leaning toward the distributor.

California gas will get you 2-3 mpg less.

I pulled the starter because it would not engage. That was my first indication the starter was going bad. Now it is doing the same thing. Hitting the starter will get it to engage. So when you think you got it, you sometimes don't.

95 SE Red

I would still pull it apart and check the races and bearings. If there is any scarring on the races or bearings, you may have problems in the future. Bearings wear in a pattern. If the pattern varies, the bearings could wear faster than normal. I'm not trying to scare you.

About a month ago I did the timing belt. When I was putting the skid plate back on I noticed the outer cv boots were torn. Got things apart and the lower ball joints were bad. So New shafts and ball joints. Alignment done and hopefully I am done for a while.

I had a chance to drive the Pathfinder and the cruise works. Even the resume. So I will have to do like others have done and "extend" the buttons.