RF600

Clean out your cooler as well. You can use mineral spirits to clean it.

There is an existing ground on the core support. I added my ground there.

You can just add a ground. When I did mine I put a new connector on also. Make sure if you add a ground that you actually get the ground. If not things will melt.

I think that one might be a injector connector.

I know that the MAF drops the ground sometimes. I added another ground to mine. Possibly the issue. There is no way to check to see if it drops the ground. Make sure you get the right wire for the ground. If not you will melt some wiring. It is safe insurance to add an additional ground. Another possibility is the idle air control valve or the controller for the valve. The idle air control valve will give you stumbles and rough ide especially coming to a stop. There are tests to check the valve and the controller. That is a possibility. I'm not saying either one will fix it but it is another place to look.

You might want to keep an eye on things. Bearings like to "keep" the same pattern. If you have a lose bearing for a long time it will find a groove it will seat in. When you tighten the bearing it will find a different groove. That could potentially have a ill effect on the life of the bearing. That is usually for a tapered bearing. I know the rear bearings aren't exactly the same. But it could have an effect on the bearing life. The axle could have some damage on it also from not riding on the machined surface properly. Listen for some noise coming from the rear. I'm not saying it will happen. It could at some point.

The t/stat should be closed until the engine temp is up. The stat will open and start circulating coolant. If you say the engine is warm and the lower hose is cold my guess is the stat is stuck closed.

I went to my local Radio Shack and got a 2 pk of bulbs. Now the lights work. Thanks for that tip. If anyone is interested in using the same switch for something like fogs, Red is power. Green is ground. Brown will have power when you turn the switch on. Pink will be for the light.

Thanks for that. Radio Shack here I come.

The rear defrost on my rig has not worked since I bought it. Today I dove into it. I checked this and that. Pulled relays, checked the grid, ran a different power wire. Still nothing. After all that, it was narrowed down to one side of the wires connecting to the grid. What it ended up being was just a ground that had corroded. I cut a little bit of wire off that was bad. Put a new eyelet on. The screw holding the ground on didn't tighted up properly, so I put a new screw in. It now works. The ground is on the passengers side. Where the ground mounted was painted. The only connection was the hole. I scraped the paint off around where the eyelet would sit. It should last for quite a while now.

That was my plan when hooking the fogs up. I have not purchased the lights yet. I don't want to spend $200. Hopefully I can find them on sale. I have a total of 3 hazard switches. The triangle doesn't light up on any of them. I'm still trying to find a way to light other bulbs I have that I can make fit into the hazard switch.

I searched with no luck. If there is a thread on this somewhere please point me to the proper place. I am planning on hooking up an extra set of fog lights. I want to use another hazard switch to turn them on. I will put it in the dash in the empty slot. I have found out which wires I need to make the switch operate properly. I want the light in the triangle to turn on when I turn the switch on. I have tried different ways of possibly truning on the light and it won't light up. Does anyone know what wires I need to use to make the triangle light up? I honestly don't know if the bulb is burned out. I grabbed a switch from the JY. I'm going to check the bulb tomorrow. I have a 95 Pathfinder.

The tire size could be limited to what one can pick up.

I don't know what driveability issues you are having. I was having an intermittent issue with mine. I cleaned this and checked that. I added an extra ground to the maf. I found that somehow the maf would drop the ground from time to time. I was having a stumble. It wouldn't idle well at times.

Now that I have the pic all squared away here it is.

So I had some time and good weather to finish the bar and install it. I like the low profile of it. It's there but not obtrusive.

I don't like being flashy with vehicles. The motorcycle is a different story. On the bike I want to be seen. I didn't want some monstrosity looking like it was taking over the front end. Keep it simple and effective. Now I really need to finish up the bar and get it mounted before winter hits, just in case. It should give me a bit more of extra protection. I hope so anyway. Once I have it painted and mounted I will post up a few pics. The pics will be without the led fog lights I want to get. I'm waiting for them to hopefully go on sale.

With an auto trans have you cleaned out the transmission cooler? That is the cause of a lot of transmission deaths. The cooler gets clogged and no fluid goes through it. No cooling and the tyranny burns up. I would look at that. Also when was the last time you changed your fuel filter? Some vehicles have been known to have "tyranny" issues that was nothing more than a fuel filter.

I believe they will work. Yes there will be modifications. I want to do it. I know that you will need a spot weld cutter to take the brackets off and re-weld them to the body. I think the bezel around the bracket is removable, off of the donor vehicle, not sure. I have not found a suitable donor yet.

Compared to the dash in my car the pathfinder is easy. Yes the squeak drove me that crazy. I'm glad I found it. If I didn't find it after all that I would be a bit upset.

I'm sure you have already swapped them out. Did you check out the lower ball joint? When I replaced my shafts the ball joints were bad.

I have been driving around for a bit now and I can report that the squeak is gone. Knock on wood. That makes my brain not hurt as much compared to when the squeak was in control.

Not new inserts. I wasn't sure how the paint would last so I didn't want to paint them and have issues. The extra set is in case something happens. As for the break around the spot welds I really have no idea why it did that. I have never had any issues that would make me think the welds would not hold. I cross my fingers that I fixed the issue. You have no idea how nice it is not having that squeak anymore. Almost as good as sex.

The hood wobbles some. I have a broken rubber stop for the hood. The things on the core support that adjusts where the hood stops. Not sure of the name. The face lift is done so far. I still have to finish up my push guard and put it on. At first glance you probably won't notice anything different, maybe you will. The bumper and the grill were sun beaten really bad. To the point that the plastic was pitting some. How long will it last? I don't know. It looks way better than the faded mess it was before. I used SEM trim black. If it gets a chip I can just touch up and be done. Etching primer on the bumper first. Anyway I wanted to keep this low tech. I have access to a gun but I didn't want to mess with all that.

I took the bumper off to reinforce it. I welded the cross bars to the brackets that bolt to the frame. You don't see it in the pic. It isn't a lot but compared to the flimsy bumper I think it will be sufficent.