RF600

More on the squeak. It is not back. I believe I know where it possibly came from. 3 of 4 wheels were bad. The vibration got worse once I put on the 31" tires. Not sure why the tires made the vibration worse. The previous owner put a 235 tire on. Not sure why. Anyway I purchased new wheels. Now it rubs a bit when turning. No biggie I need to trim a bit of the fender flare. I also need to lift my rig a bit more. I will probably end up with a 3" lift. Even with trimming the flare I worry about wheel travel when off road. I went with the American Racing Outlaw 1. The solid wheel not the one with the holes in them. I don't have a pic but I have seen a pic of them on the boards here.

Quite a few years ago, younger and dumber, I had a 68 Camaro. Big block, th400. It was fun. Now I'm trying to get another muscle car. Keeping the Pathfinder.

My first question, is the vehicle getting up to proper temp? It is possible that one of the doors that control the hot and cold are not function.

I hate you. lol

No thank you. I like an above zero winter. I don't mind visiting, but I get to leave.

My rig seems to get more miles as the gauge goes down. The first 1/4 tank I will get 30 to 40 miles. Up to half tank it might get to 100 or more. So check your mileage and don't rely completely on the gauge. After you replaced the stat did you make sure the coolant level is proper? It could possibly be a little low. Make sure there are no leaks from any hose clamps. Did you put 50/50 mix in?

I knew about the dirt bike track there but not that there was a 4x4 place.

Don't forget the damage the chains will do to the body when they fly off the tire.

Remember to keep your speed around 30mph with chains on. My last trip into the mountains I counted about 10 chains that were left in the road. Lots of bungies in the road also.

I'm near Sacramento. Not sure my rig is up to the task.

Clean out your cooler as well. You can use mineral spirits to clean it.

Bile. Kick ass industrial band.

There is an existing ground on the core support. I added my ground there.

You can just add a ground. When I did mine I put a new connector on also. Make sure if you add a ground that you actually get the ground. If not things will melt.

I think that one might be a injector connector.

I know that the MAF drops the ground sometimes. I added another ground to mine. Possibly the issue. There is no way to check to see if it drops the ground. Make sure you get the right wire for the ground. If not you will melt some wiring. It is safe insurance to add an additional ground. Another possibility is the idle air control valve or the controller for the valve. The idle air control valve will give you stumbles and rough ide especially coming to a stop. There are tests to check the valve and the controller. That is a possibility. I'm not saying either one will fix it but it is another place to look.

If you are a Mushroomhead fan you might know who this band is, Two One Six.

You might want to keep an eye on things. Bearings like to "keep" the same pattern. If you have a lose bearing for a long time it will find a groove it will seat in. When you tighten the bearing it will find a different groove. That could potentially have a ill effect on the life of the bearing. That is usually for a tapered bearing. I know the rear bearings aren't exactly the same. But it could have an effect on the bearing life. The axle could have some damage on it also from not riding on the machined surface properly. Listen for some noise coming from the rear. I'm not saying it will happen. It could at some point.

I know it's not quite the same thing but who remembers the Cannonball Run 2? Catherine Bach and Susan Anton were in an orange lambo. They stopped and had some guy spray the car down. The paint washed off. The car turned white.

The t/stat should be closed until the engine temp is up. The stat will open and start circulating coolant. If you say the engine is warm and the lower hose is cold my guess is the stat is stuck closed.

I went to my local Radio Shack and got a 2 pk of bulbs. Now the lights work. Thanks for that tip. If anyone is interested in using the same switch for something like fogs, Red is power. Green is ground. Brown will have power when you turn the switch on. Pink will be for the light.

Thanks for that. Radio Shack here I come.

The rear defrost on my rig has not worked since I bought it. Today I dove into it. I checked this and that. Pulled relays, checked the grid, ran a different power wire. Still nothing. After all that, it was narrowed down to one side of the wires connecting to the grid. What it ended up being was just a ground that had corroded. I cut a little bit of wire off that was bad. Put a new eyelet on. The screw holding the ground on didn't tighted up properly, so I put a new screw in. It now works. The ground is on the passengers side. Where the ground mounted was painted. The only connection was the hole. I scraped the paint off around where the eyelet would sit. It should last for quite a while now.

That was my plan when hooking the fogs up. I have not purchased the lights yet. I don't want to spend $200. Hopefully I can find them on sale. I have a total of 3 hazard switches. The triangle doesn't light up on any of them. I'm still trying to find a way to light other bulbs I have that I can make fit into the hazard switch.

I searched with no luck. If there is a thread on this somewhere please point me to the proper place. I am planning on hooking up an extra set of fog lights. I want to use another hazard switch to turn them on. I will put it in the dash in the empty slot. I have found out which wires I need to make the switch operate properly. I want the light in the triangle to turn on when I turn the switch on. I have tried different ways of possibly truning on the light and it won't light up. Does anyone know what wires I need to use to make the triangle light up? I honestly don't know if the bulb is burned out. I grabbed a switch from the JY. I'm going to check the bulb tomorrow. I have a 95 Pathfinder.