RF600

Sound like the slave is bad. Are you using Tapatalk to post? Tapatalk is not your friend

That information is around here in threads somewhere. The timing marks are on the pieces that bolt to the block behind the cam gears. The upper timing cover will bolt to it. If that makes sense? If you have a nissan timing belt, there will be marks on it for both cams and the crank gear. Gotta make sure you are TDC on number 1 cylinder first.

Pull it apart to see. That's the only way to know for sure.

A/C belt runs on the adjustable tensioner. The lock nut is 14mm, the adjuster nut is 12mm. Loosen the 14mm on the pulley first. Loosen the 12mm on the top of the adjuster, that will lower the pulley down so the belt will fit. You can change out the bearing on the idler pulley. Depending on mileage it would be a good idea.

This ^. I might also add to load your favorite weapon and as much ammo as you can.

My first thought is, if you can hear the motor but nothing is happening, regulator. But, can you manually, by hand, pull the window up? I put my window down the other day. It went down and I continued to hear the motor. Once I took it apart the cables for the regulator weren't broken. My first thought was the regulator, so I ordered one before taking it apart. Turns out the motor was toast. I ended up replacing the motor and regulator. Both needed replacing. I have a 95. So I don't know if the motor and regulator are sold together or separately compared to a 96.

Running new wires is best. Time consuming but worth it. Bypassing the factory amp is the right way to do it with an aftermarket head unit.

Constant power wire is what you would be looking for. Check that wire. Not sure what color it is on a factory head unit. On aftermarket head units the wire is yellow.

I replaced one of my fogs with an aftermarket one. Where it plugs into the harness, it doesn't make really good contact. Have you messed with the plug to see if the light will come on?

I'm not sure what their purpose is also. I do believe they do flow a little bit of air through them.

Ok, that guy is annoying. I couldn't watch the whole thing. No need for any epoxy on the gasket. It will stay in the valve cover. While you are there replace the rubber bolt grommets also.

Check the center link. It might be worn. Possibly tension rod bushings?

Timing belts on these are easy. Tension rod bushings may need to be changed. Get poly bushings. Remote oil filter mounting. Makes life easier and it will keep your starter happy.

BTW this is not on my pathfinder.

://s118.photobucket.com/user/rf600/media/20160304_172941_zps7vdbtepa.jpg.html][/url] This was caused by a plugged oiling port. Right cam is frozen in the head. Couldn't budge it with a chisel and hammer. Please change your oil on a regular basis. This could have been prevented.

Thanks.

Spark plugs; Chevrolet-Delco Ford-Champion Nissan and most imports-NGK I think you see where I'm going with this. A lot of things we do for our vehicles do nothing more than have a placebo effect. Some people swear by a KnN air filter. Some people actually think that their fancy cold air intake, that sits in a hot engine compartment and not blocked off from the engine heat, actually helps.

Bleed the clutch again. Did you check the hose? Maybe there is a problem with it leaking. Are you actually losing fluid? Clean everything off with brakekleen or something like that. Pump the clutch a few times and see if there are any leaks.

Seriously the brackets are useless.

Taptalk is not your friend

There are a lot of threads on this same issue. Use the search. There are many possible issues causing this. Maf, idle air control valve, vaccuum leak. Download the factory service manual. It will have testing procedures for checking the possible things causing the problems. Depending on mileage, over 100k, my first guess would be idle air control valve.

Putting fancier plugs in only makes your wallet thinner. Doesn't help with performance. I stick with what the factory installed.

Look around online. I don't recall what I paid for my warn hubs, I think it was under $200.

If I remember correctly, number one is about the 10 o'clock position. That is when you are facing the distributor.

From what I have read on the boards here, the fluid needs to be GL4. Anything else will harm the soft synchronizer rings in the transmission. Even though GL5 can be used in place of GL4, forum members say not to do it.