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Everything posted by RF600
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Wheels are too big for sure. Pretty cool looking ride.
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Squeeling noise after 6 hour drive on the highway
RF600 replied to maddmark1981's topic in General Forums
The idler pulley bearing is sealed. It's best to replace it. -
I don't recall the part number but just go to the dealer. It's not that much.
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You have to make sure #1 is on TDC. Then stab the distributer. Then get a timing light and time it. You are probably 180 out.
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Squeeling noise after 6 hour drive on the highway
RF600 replied to maddmark1981's topic in General Forums
I know this is old, is it fixed? If not try the idler pulley bearing. -
If you have not painted anything yet, get some Adhesion Promoter. Go to your local paint shop and get some good rattle can paint. I painted the vinyl cover that covers the convertable top on my car with that stuff. If remaines flexable. Use the adhesion promoter first then paint.
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Possible corrosion on the socket? My guess is there some resistance somewhere. Put more power to the wires and it pops the bulbs. The fuse should go first. Check the fuse. It sounds weird but maybe there is an issue with it?
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Some of those cheaper bulbs, the silver bottom, are not very good. I prefer the gold colored bottom bulbs.
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Obviously she likes you and doesn't want to be sold. One or more injectors is out of spec. Mine has the same codes. You can ohm out the all the injectors using the plugs near where the upper radiator hose mounts. Do a search, there are a thread or 2 about which wires to use.
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Kind of hard to pinpoint without seeing the rig. Start looking at things. Driveline, u joints, torsion rod bushings. Don't automatically assume transmission til you have ruled out the other things first.
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http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39925-95-4x4-clutch-replacement/?view=getnewpost This might help
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The transmission is really heavy, not joking really heavy! No need to drop it to the ground. Remove the shifter and slide the transmission back. If you have a 4x4, leave the transfer case attached and slide both back. To do it properly you need a transmission jack.
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One thing is these trucks aren't hp beasts to begin with. The computer takes over anyway. Just set it for what is called for and drive.
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Why not buy new ones from the dealer? There not that much.
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I had torn boots in my rig. I elected to just put shafts in instead. Depending on how long the boot has been torn you might be better off just replacing the shaft?
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Help tracking down rough idle / whacky tachometer issue (video)
RF600 replied to xylicon's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
The tachometer in these are usually not functioning. Mine doesn't work, my brothers does. Mine jumps around sometimes. I can feel it in the throttle pedal so I don't worry about the tach. Check the idle air control valve. There is a controller for it. There is a procedure for checking it in the manual. Could be a faulty injector. I have one in my rig that acts up at times. It sometimes will run bad, most of the time is runs great. -
I have switched over to 5w30 synthetic. No issues. If you have any oil leaks, fix them before switching to synthetic.
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You can take the door cylinders to a locksmith and have them keyed the same.
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Not sure what state you are in. You run the risk of getting pulled over. Something to consider.
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No spark after replacing plugs, points and coil... Any ideas?
RF600 replied to taylorhayis's topic in The Garage
Check the tabs inside the dist cap. I have seen some caps that the tabs were not all,the same length. Not being the same length, the rotor won't contact them properly and you will have issues. Nice thing is it won't cost you anything to check. -
Monsta liner. They do different colors. UV resistant. Check out their web site.
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Best place for oil accessories (sandwich plates, relocation, etc)
RF600 replied to ferrariowner123's topic in The Garage
I used the Hayden relocating kit. I put it next to the fuel filter. It uses the Ford PH8 filter. There is a thread specific to oil filter relocation. Some pics there also. -
There is a couple connectors you can use to check all the injectors without pulling anything. There is a 4 pack of connectors next to the upper rad hose. There is a 6 pin and a 8 pin connector. The 8 pin connector is the injectors. The 6 pin connector is used for the common. There is only 1 on the 6 pin that will work. It's one of the outside pins. The 8 pin connector is the injector side. With the clip of the connector up, starting on the second pin from the right will be number 1. The second row, starting on the second pin in is number 3. Use the male ends of the connectors for testing. Hopefully that didn't confuse you a lot. There is a few threads on the boards that address this. One even has pics of the connectors that are used.