RF600

I remember having 2 seperate keys for a vehicle. At this point, those days are over. So I had the door and hatch cylinders re-keyed. Having electric door locks, there is some kind of something attached to the cylinders on both doors. I don't know what they do, but I assume they have to do with turning the key twice to unlock all doors? I broke one. Put some plastic bond on the broken piece. The door locks don't know the difference, it worked well. So all is well. I am back to having 1 key.

So I finally got around to replacing the ignition cylinder. I have not had any issues since. The key is very snug in the new cylinder compared to the old worn out cylinder. Now I have to remove the door cylinders and have them re-keyed. The front doors are easy. I'm sure the rear hatch isn't too bad?

Idle air control valve. There is a controller for it also that could cause the problem. It can cause stalling, rough idling. They act up intermittently. If it starts acting up again, I would look at the iac and or controller. O2 sensors are good for about 100k. They usually get slow as they age. Hopefully replacing the O2 solved your problem.

When I put the lift on mine I made blocks to lower the cables. I used square metal stock. Attached them to the body, then attached the cable to the block. I don't recall exactly, but I think I used 1" stock. I have a 2" lift. So the higher the lift, I would assume a thicker block would need to be used?

Don't pay for the platinum plugs. They are no benefit to the engine. It only makes your wallet smaller.

Please put NGK plugs back in. If you are still having issues after doing that, finish the tune up. Cap, rotor, wires at a minimum. You said the plugs were 15 years old, I'm assuming the rest is at least that old.

I believe you are correct MrE. The radio has not been coming on latley. I have been fiddling with the key, and the radio will turn on. I have ordered a cylinder and will be replacing it next week, hopefully. Thanks for the assistance on this.

Going with the cheap rebuilds is not the best. Sure you get a lifetime warranty. I have said this before. It means you spend your lifetime replacing it. Get one from a Napa store or similar. Either that or take it to a shop to rebuild it.

It makes sense. The ignition switch controls a lot of things. As many times as it has been started in its life, I wouldn't be surprised if that was the problem. Now to find time to look at it. Thanks

I assume they all mount in a similar fashion? I have a 95. There is one bolt at the top. The adjuster has 2 bolts. The one that adjusts the belt, and one that locks the adjustment bolt in place.

So it happened again today. So besides the wipers not working, I had no a/c or blower. I haven't had time to go hunting yet for the issue.

Looks nice especially for coming out of Colorado. I have never used those bfg tires. I assume they did well in the snow?

I had a distributor that would act up between 2500-3000 rpm. It would miss in that rpm range. Driving down the highway in that range was very annoying. I had no cel either. The sensor is built into the distributor which sucks. Lift up on the egr valve while the truck is running. If it stumbles, the egr is working. I'm not saying the pathway isn't somewhat clogged, simple test for the egr.

Whatever pressure you go with, check the tires for wear. Wear in the middle, too much air. Wear on the outsides of the tire, too little air. Having said that, I have 31's on my pathfinder and I'm running at 30psi. I'm not noticing any weird wearing. I haven't tried a higher pressure.

I'm at 248k right now. I have retired the factory key. It always worked in the ignition cylinder, but would have problems in the door locks. I have already cleaned the grounds behind the kick panel, and the rest of them that I could find. I did change out the fuel pump relay because of a nostart the other day. It's been good since. Yes it does sound like a relay, I haven't found anything in the manual around that area that goes to the radio. I did see an accessory relay that I haven't located yet. I forget if it's under the kick panel or not.

Hey all, I know, another electrical thread. I have searched with no luck. To start off I have a 95 pathfinder with a manual transmission. At random times when I start the rig first thing in the morning, the radio won't turn on. It has only been a few times so I really didn't worry about it. Yesterday morning it would turn over but not start. I switched the fuel pump relay out with a used one, it started right up. Today the rig started, but no radio, or wipers, dew on the windows. Maybe 15 seconds after I started it, the radio turned on and the wipers worked. When the radio does randomly turn on in the mornings, I can hear a clicking like a relay energizing around the fuse block area. I messed with a couple relays with no luck. So does anyone have any ideas?

How many miles on you timing belt?

Mr.510 did get in touch with me. He is moving his shop. It would be 2-3 months before he has any adapters ready to go. So for anyone who is looking for an adapter, you can still get one.

Citron if that's the case, it might not be too difficult to make things work. I will look into the X engine. Thanks. Now if all this rain we are getting would stop for a weekend, it would give me some time to go and look at engines.

I did a 2" suspension lift with a 2" body lift. I did have to index the torsion bars 1 tooth. JGC springs in the rear. I don't have any noticable front end issues. I did rebuild the entire front end though. The ball joint angle isn't bad. The CV angle isn't too bad. That why I didn't go with a 3" lift. I went the cheap way. I can't remember how long since I have done it, maybe 2-3 years. No issues that I know of. I pretty much drive it daily. I didn't get longer shocks for the rear. I know I should have. I don't do a lot of wheeling. So I didn't see the need for it. Disclaimer; your results may be different than mine.

If I went with a blazer, I would like to put a 4bt in it. It would be a lot of work, but the payoff would be good. No computer for those. It looks like I have my work cut out for me doing the vg33 swap. Finding the crank pulley or the adapter will be a chore. If I can even find one. I may have to run all the accessories from the 33? I won't really know til I start the swap. I'm still doing research on the swap. A few photos are out there. Not too many. I alway have this site to assist me along the way.

I just looked for that part number, discontinued. So it looks like used is what I need to try and find. This isn't a rush build. The 3.0 is running well. It is for later on. Maybe I will have to change the accessories over to the 3.3? We will see what happens when I get to that point. There are options, just depends on how creative I need to be.

Thanks for the part number Slartbartfast. I will see if I can find one for a reasonable price. I still need to build bumpers, front and rear. Hopefully that will be this summer. I'm not terribly worried about accessory brackets. I have a welder and some basic fab skills.

So I have been thinking about more than a 4x4. Something like a bug out vehicle. I'm not going to be going crazy. Keep it simple, keep it basic. I was looking at a full size blazer or suburban. That is a much added cost on what I need to keep budget friendly. So that is out. After much thought I have decided to use the pathfinder and upgrade a few things. First I want to upgrade the engine. I would like to swap in a vg33. I have been doing my share of reading up on it. I'm currently trying to find Mr.510 and get a hold of his crank adapter. I have a couple messages out to him. If anyone knows how to get a hold of him, please let me know. With the vg33 swap comes california smog. It will be a stock build. Just looking for a bit more out of my old girl. I'm not too keen on milling the vg30 crank pulley. I don't want to use the vg30 crank either. I remember something about the Canadian crank pulley that would work. That might be tough to find?

Yes oil leaks can be a pain to track down. So like CN said, clean it up as best you can, check again. There is always putting some dye in the oil, using a black light, it will show where it's coming from.