RF600

I had considered that. My fronts are so bad that they are going to need to be broken apart in order to remove them.

Make sense. I was trying to understand how to wire up 87a so it’s not powered up constantly, for halos or something similar.

Wouldn’t 87a have constant power? It wouldn’t be switched power, right.

Honestly I didn’t think to look at eBay. I supposed we are out of luck for the rear doors then?

Since I didn’t buy the glass run when I had the chance, the are nla. Has anyone come up with a solution? I was wondering how different the xterra doors were compared to the pathfinder. Glass run, the weatherstripping or whatever you want to call it that the glass goes up and down in.

That makes sense. It’s weird, but makes sense. I will try and stick that in my head for future reference. Thanks.

I don’t understand the point of having 87a if there is no power to it.

I think I figured it out. I went back and started over. I went with a 5 pin relay so I wouldn’t have to put 2 wires together. My plan was to use pins 87 and 87a. I assumed that 87a would be powered up the same as 87. Apparently that’s not how it works. 87a has no power when the relay is activated. That is where I went wrong. Lesson learned.

I didn’t double check the kit harness before shortening things. The headlights work fine plugged into the factory harness. So no bad bulbs. I actually just replaced both headlight bulbs. It has to be something I’m missing, but I just can’t seem to figure it out.

I’m not have any luck with my headlight relay wiring kit. The kit I bought has really long wiring and I didn’t like the non standard relays that came with the kit. I shortened the wiring and added the standard style relays. The ground wire was in a different spot compared to my harness so I swapped the wires. When I put power to the relay, headlight switch off, one of the headlights turned on. Which shouldn’t happen. I have looked at the diagrams on how the wiring is supposed to be, and everything looks proper. I'm a bit confused and hoping someone can assist me

I can’t help with the size and pitch, if you can somehow secure it better that it is now, it would be a benefit to you. They call those things damage multipliers.

I have tried to upload a pic but it says it’s too big. I have cropped the pic, but it’s still too big. I wanted to show it next to the cruise switch to give people an idea of what it looked like. It’s physically larger than the cruise switch. It’s not too bad. I like the fact I didn’t have to put in just a plain old rocker switch that would look out of place. Wiring was easy.

I had it within 1 week. They are out of SC. I’m in California. So that’s pretty quick. You can buy different covers if you want. Pop the old one off, put the new one on.

Do you have any rca wires running an amp? Sometimes the rca wires ran near the power wire, if you have an amp hooked up, will cause issues. If it’s just the head unit with no amp, plug wires are likely causing the issue. Why it effects the radio, I’m not sure. Could be spark plug related as well.

I’m no electrical guru. Your idea makes sense. What I did do, I ordered a switch that I could customize. I can put what I want on it, as long as they have it listed. They have a lot of available pictures to chose from. You can chose your text, and where you want it to be on the switch cover. It was relatively cheap considering. It was less than $30. The switch is a bit larger than the cruise switch. The symbol and writing are back lit. When the antenna is powered on, the light at the bottom will illuminate. I have no affiliation with this site. I happened to find it when I was looking at rocker switches. www.rockerswitchpros.com

I have a 95 pathfinder. I grabbed a cruise control switch out of a 91 pathfinder. The wiring colors are the same except one wire. They are also in different locations compared to the 95. I’m guessing they should go to the same places? So what I’m trying to do is rig up a switch that will control my power antenna. The head unit I have only has one power lead for the antenna or amp. So I’m using it for the amp. I want to wire up a separate switch for the power antenna. My hope is I can use the cruise switch to operate the same way it does for the cruise control turn on. So I would like the switch to not be powered up unless I push the button, and not keep power if I turn off the ignition. Then when I turn on the ignition again, the antenna won’t power up unless I push the button. I hope this makes sense.

The bore is a bit larger on the 3.3 compared to the 3.0. The stroke is the same. If you are going to rebuild the engine, maybe use the 3.0 crank? This saves trying to get an adapter for the crank pulley. The big end of the crank is the same between the two. The small end is not though. It’s about .024 larger on the 3.3.

http://imgur.com/a/MwZvO7E Is this the correct way to do it from imgur?

I'm an old fart according to this. Oh well.

Oil questions are interesting. Everyone has their brand they prefer. The most important thing, change it regularly. Doesn't matter if it's dino or synthetic. Personally I have started using 10/30. Summers get hot here, winters aren't that bad. Rarely freezes here.

California has a law that they need to be under 30 inches and more that 12 inches. They sit around 26 inches I believe. So I'm hoping I don't have any issues with the police. Anyway, you can somewhat aim them using washers, in case I need to aim them down more. You have to get about 12 inches off the ground before you are looking directly into the lights. This is about 25 feet away. So I think I should be ok? One other thing that frustrated me about wiring them up. For some reason the black is hot and the green is the ground. It took me a few to figure that out.

The last I heard, tapatalk on this forum isn't your friend. Maybe that has changed?

Add another ground to the maf. Make sure you get the right wire. If not, melt down. The reason I say to add another ground to the maf, I have read that the ground will occasionally drop causing issues. I did take it in to the dealer looking for a part and a tech was there also. He verified about the extra ground. It won't hurt, it just might help.

What are the chances it's the sensor in the distributor? I had a miss at around 2500 rpm's. I tried a lot of things. I replaced the distributor, fixed. If you know someone who has a good one to try it first. It's easy enough to swap out. Just mark your distributor prior to removing it.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DaPfMiSZBWQDKFvN8 Let's see if this works.