RF600

Because I can sit on the core support and work on the engine, and there is room to work.

Sweet

I have to put outer boots on the front axles so I will take a look at that also. Hopefully this weekend I can get to it. I do miss having cruise control.

That has to piss off the tire shops.

I had some free time and pulled the connectors out of the housing for the coolant temp sensor. One of the connectors was still corroded from my feeble attempt to clean them up the first time. I cleaned them up and put some dielectric grease on them and put it back together. I have tried to make it stumble and it has not acted up. It is weird that is what was causing the problem. At least it is fixed now. Thanks for the input from everyone.

Thanks Slartibartfast for doing that for me. That means I can rule out the pump. Well I guess it is time for more trouble shooting. Gotta love it. I did pull the cruise switches off at one point and clean them up. That didn't help.

It was definitely worth the time and money to relocate the oil filter. I wish I would have taken a pic of the starter after I took it apart. It was nasty.

The horn works fine. I pulled the pump apart as far as I could. There is a diaphragm that I can't get to unless I break the housing. Would anyone be willing to check their pump for me? Pull the hose off of the actuator pod and blow through it. I have not seen any pathfinders at the yards in town. I know there are some in the next town but that is ~30 minutes away. I don't want to waste the gas unless I have to.

I'm pretty sure my horn works. The last time I used it was a while back. I will probably open the pump up and have a look. Doesn't look like there would be much to it.

The hose is good between the pump and actuator. I can blow into the hose and hear it coming out of the pump. I would think being a pump it shouldn't be like that? Bad diaphram in the pump?

I have a 95 Pathfinder with a m/t. I am doing the checks like the manual says. I jump all 4 wires and the cruse wire pulls. Next the manual says the cruse wire should return back in 50-60 seconds. Mine goes back immediately. So I think that the actuator pump is bad because it doesn't hold. Is that correct? I put vac to the actuator ( the pod with the diaphram) and it will pull the wire and hold. The switch will illuminate. I checked the other switches and everything is good. The cruse did work off and on before.

I can't find my receipt so I don't know for sure. I think it was a hayden kit. The lines are custom made. I put the heat sleeves on just in case. The hoses were the most expensive part. I think the filter is off of a ford. I took some metal I had and made the mounting bracket.

After the first couple oil changes I put a remote filter on. It's a larger filter also. I used mounting points that were existing. No extra holes drilled. The fuel filter is a little more difficult to get off but not too bad.

Could they have put it in a worse place? Shortly after I got my pathfinder I put a remote oil filter on it. As we all know it drips all over the starter when doing oil changes. So I get the remote filter on. I did have a slight leak at one of the connectors. So a little more oil drips on the starter. Anyway I go to start it one day and I get nothing. No click, but everything works. So I start checking for power. Nothing from the starter. So I pull the starter. There is some oil coming from the starter. I pull the starter apart and it looks like mud inside. I clean all the parts. Apply some grease and put it back together. I cross my fingers and jump the starter. It works. I put it back in and it started. What i'm getting at is I didn't know that that much oil and crap could get in there and keep it from working. I'm glad I didn't have to buy a starter. Moral of this story! Get a remote mount oil filter.

Transmissions are not very much fun on a 4x4. Well I still have a little hesitation. I will attempt to clean the connector again. Does anyone know if Nissan sells the connectors? Or maybe the whole pig tail?

The clutch is next on my list. Not looking forward to it. I will have a friend help with that. He is a human transmission jack.

My first new motorcycle I bought was a Suzuki RF600. I have a different motorcycle now. Suzuki TL1000R. I do use the name TickLR on the motorcycle sites.

Did you measure about how much space the box is? Just curious in case I want to go that way.

Finally got around to the timing belt. Not as bad as I thought. Fixed a couple other annoying rattles. Just can't find the rattle in the dash. Turn the music up louder and it goes away.

I replaced the timing belt, valve cover gaskets and intake. Could the engineers have made it any more difficult to get to the left side valve cover off? While I had the intake off I looked at the hoses and connectors. The hoses were ok, but I did find a connector with some corrosion on it. I Think it was the coolant temp sensor. I cleaned it up the best I could and put some dielectric grease on the connector. After I got the coolant back in it I took it for a drive around the block to see if my stumble was still present. I didn't notice the stumble. So I will drive it more in the next few days to make sure. Next on the list is a new clutch.

When was the last time you did a tune up? High hydrocarbons usually indicate unburnt fuel. So bad plug, wire, dist cap or rotor. Could be one or all. Looks like they lowered the standard also. It also doesn't hurt to have a somewhat fresh oil change before smog.

About 15 miles one way.

The bass blocker basically takes the low freq and "blocks" it and only lets the high freq go through it.

I had the same thing done as another person. The po put smaller tires on my Pathfinder. My mileage is way off of what it should be. I really don't care that much. Gonna drive it til it dies.

I am going to do the timing belt in the next couple of weeks. I'm going to pull the intake and look at the hoses also. Hopefully I find a bad hose. It would make it easier to fix the hose and not have to do more looking for my studdering.