RF600

It's not completely done. I still have to put the paddle hatch in for the drawer. Put sides on to cover up the drawer sliders. It's a 2 bottle cart. The middle shelf is for my mig. The bottom back is for my plasma. The rear tube is set up to connect to air to so I don't have to bend over constantly. The front, on the bottom, should fit a small inverter tig. I do hope to get one some day. That's why I made a 2 bottle cart. One bottle for each gas I would need. I'm waiting for my local motorcycle shop to do a 530 chain. I will use that to go around the bottles to keep them in place. The casters needed to be modified. When attempting to put the brakes on, the brake piece would seperate a little from the caster making it not possible to lock. I put a tack weld on the casters to keep the pieces together. Works like a charm. All in all I'm really happy with how it turned out.

There is some fuseable links off of the battery. I would make sure that the connectors are making good contact.

Dash maybe?

Have you looked on Courtesyparts.com? They have an online parts catalog.

If you haven't already, add an extra ground to the maf.

Do a search. We use JGC springs and crank the torsion bars. Plenty of threads and a sticky on the topic.

Also check the strut rod bushings. The bushings deteriorate and the shaft will wear to the point of breaking. If you end up replacing them, get poly.

I'm not an engineer nor do I have access to a wind tunnel. The vents are there for a reason. Maybe to disrupt the air flow to allow it to go over the vehicle better? I didn't design the vehicle. Common sense would dictate that a large flat area is bad for air flow to start with.

If you clean the radiator fins, do it from inside out. Or should I say clean the opposite way the air goes through the radiator. If using water and a nozzle, don't use a sharp stream. Keep the stream perpendicular to the radiator. If not you will have to straighten out a lot of fins. Not fun.

I doubt the drag is noticable to a point of better mileage.

^this^. If it's an aftermarket head unit, the constant power should be the yellow wire. Sometimes there is a fuse in that wire.

Hope you don't have any leaks. If so you will have to take it apart again.

Easy to check to see if the egr is functioning properly. With the engine running push up on the diaphram of the egr. If it stumbles, the egr is functioning. I should add. Just because the egr is functioning doesn't mean that something associated with the egr is working properly.

Update, turned 241k. Might need to replace the cat. She passed smog this year, getting close to the limit. Gotta love Ca. Just because it's a 95 it's listed as a high emitter. I enjoy sticking it to CA by keeping my older vehicles on the road.

Depends on your budget, your time. You will never get the money out of the rig that you put into it. My thought, it's paid for, no monthly payment, cheaper insurance, cheaper registration. Why did it not pass smog before? I would say a full tune up, O2 sensor, timing belt. You can easily put more money back into it than the rig is worth. Consider that. Check out the "how many miles on your pathfinder" thread. I just turned 241,000. Still going strong, knock on wood. Taken care of, this engine will last. Regular oil changes really helps. Not having to pay someone to perform repairs, priceless

Sound like the slave is bad. Are you using Tapatalk to post? Tapatalk is not your friend

That information is around here in threads somewhere. The timing marks are on the pieces that bolt to the block behind the cam gears. The upper timing cover will bolt to it. If that makes sense? If you have a nissan timing belt, there will be marks on it for both cams and the crank gear. Gotta make sure you are TDC on number 1 cylinder first.

Pull it apart to see. That's the only way to know for sure.

A/C belt runs on the adjustable tensioner. The lock nut is 14mm, the adjuster nut is 12mm. Loosen the 14mm on the pulley first. Loosen the 12mm on the top of the adjuster, that will lower the pulley down so the belt will fit. You can change out the bearing on the idler pulley. Depending on mileage it would be a good idea.

This ^. I might also add to load your favorite weapon and as much ammo as you can.

My first thought is, if you can hear the motor but nothing is happening, regulator. But, can you manually, by hand, pull the window up? I put my window down the other day. It went down and I continued to hear the motor. Once I took it apart the cables for the regulator weren't broken. My first thought was the regulator, so I ordered one before taking it apart. Turns out the motor was toast. I ended up replacing the motor and regulator. Both needed replacing. I have a 95. So I don't know if the motor and regulator are sold together or separately compared to a 96.

Running new wires is best. Time consuming but worth it. Bypassing the factory amp is the right way to do it with an aftermarket head unit.

Constant power wire is what you would be looking for. Check that wire. Not sure what color it is on a factory head unit. On aftermarket head units the wire is yellow.

I replaced one of my fogs with an aftermarket one. Where it plugs into the harness, it doesn't make really good contact. Have you messed with the plug to see if the light will come on?

I'm not sure what their purpose is also. I do believe they do flow a little bit of air through them.