devonianwalk

Could be a couple of things. First I would check the wheel bearing (or the strut bearing maybe?)

That is a STEAL!

I would actually perfer black struts over my "look right here!" silver GR's.

Really?

It's also a good idea to degrease your engine. I do this from time to time to check for new leaks. In my case, I keep finding hidden pockets of dirt/mud.

No! Don't do that! The RCA's are carrying 2-4 volts max. You will burn out the amp's inputs by feeding too much power. The average head unit back when I was into stereo's hovered around the 12-15 watt range. One option you might have is to buy a line level converter. I think you can find these at most car stereo stores (even some big box car parts stores). *edit ... my link is merely for refference. You can find them cheaper than the one I quickly Googled!

That is my understanding. I have discussed this with friends that have done this on other vehicles (both American made).

I used to do a lot custom car audio installs and sound competitions back in the early '90's. I recall the universal color codes for 12v audio systems. The connector on the right has the tell tale yellow (constant +), red (switched +), black (ground -), and orange (illumination). What is curious is that both harnesses have the blue (amp turn on lead). Could there be more than one amp? Front and back maybe? There should also be an antenna lead to signal the powered antenna to extend/retract. Other notable "universal" car audio colors are grey (right front), white (left front), purple (right rear), and green (left rear). It looks as if the RCA patch cords send those signals to the factory amp. I would think that your new head unit would have to have pre-amp out puts for those specific channels. The harness on the left confuses me though, It probably connects the power to the second amp?

So could disconnecting the wires! That was deff my last step before replacing the drive belts.

We are all running stock (stock specs) struts. The only reason to replace them is because it makes sense to swap them out while the springs are off. Mine had 150,000+ miles on them so I went ahead and replaced them.

Are you trying to install that nut first, or do you have the other bolts in place? I recently replaced my alty and did not have any trouble at all other than removing all the drive belts and the upper rad hose. I recall installing the top bolt/nut first. Then again, I had a comfortable sunny day and a few beers to encourage me to get through the job.

Hold the pliers with a long needle nut? ... oh wait ...

The time you run the truck w/o the pump is limited to the engine temp. I ran mine several minutes when I was trouble shooting my "mucked up" engine problemo. I'd venture to say that you can run it longer witht the ambient outdoor temperature what it is now as opposed to when I did it in July-August.

Oh it is. I removed my upper radiator hose to aid in the removal/install process.

Mine has the 1/2 inch "upgrade". I had to drill my strut mount holes out and used grade 8 nuts and bolts. It was really easy to drill them out.

And to me, $1500 sounds good.

Yep. +1

I want pics of the box your springs come in. Mine looked like a freight train ran over them ... twice!

I took it up the rear with 4x4parts.com ... and I'm still smiling!

First, welcome to the forum! Please take photos of your before/during/after lift install. Most of us R50 people have been down this road and we are more than willing to help you out with any questions that you will have. Springs - It seems that everyone has their own opinion on the springs (AC or OME). I went with the AC's because they offered most lift (2") I got mine here Struts - but, we all have the same opinion on the struts. KYB-GR2 are pretty much just stock replacements that have fewer complaints than the other name brands. There is an overwhelming opinion on using genuine Nissan strut mounts and bearings. I have yet to read a complaint on the factory replacements but, several complaints on the cheap AC's. You can find these at a local auto parts store (or Ebay). They are more common than you think! Camber bolts - I used the camber bolts to take away the "bull dog" stance that the front tires tend to do with the lift. I used two kits (two bolts per strut) and got them here Strut spacers - You made reference to the NX4 strut spacer. I installed them to level out the "rake" and make my Pathy have an even stance (they mount between the strut tower and strut). One of our members here makes them. You can find them here Rear Shocks - We also very on opinion of which shock to use in the rear. Some of us run the Rancho RS5000, others run the Bilstein's. Either way, you will need to replace them as the stock shocks are to short for the lift. I got mine here Manual hubs - The only reason to install the manual hubs is for the option of disengaging the front CV axels. You see, by lifting the front suspension you exaggerate the angle of which the CV rotates. This will shorten the life of the CV boots and CV itself. With the manual hub dissengaged the CV wont spin and therefore will greatly reduce the daily wear and tear. Some of us have seen a slight increase in MPG's due to the lessened rolling resistance as well! I got mine here Sway bar - You don't need to do any thing special here. I removed my sway bar to increase the rear flex. I do notice the body roll on the high way though. I have considered reinstalling mine but, that would require me getting on the ground so I try to find other things to work on my Pathy! Hopefully this helps you. Others will chime in with their opinions but, this is the direction I went. You can follow my build here >>>

Man, I must have missed that one as I was oh-so-very happy that the job was done.

I placed mine on the hood. The T- belt package had no instructions where to stick it.

The link takes us to a swaybar for a '01-'04 Pathfinder.