WOT

Does anyone have a pic of there pathy/qx4 missing just the rear bumper cover?? Im thinking of having some fabrication fun and squeezing the rear bumper tighter to the back of the truck. But was hoping to get a look at whats right under the cover. Ive had mine off but my memory fails me and its cold out Anyone have a pic of there babys ass?

No pick n pulls locally?? I go to my local yard enough to know them as a "regular" and for something like this, I would pay them upfront telling them the situation, and if it wasnt the ecu, I could bring it back. Had to do it twice for my talon actually Ecu fried for no aparent reason in that car a few times A local friend/board member/craigslist person may be able to help though

I thought the tranny fluid was somehow hotter than the coolant, through friction in the tranny I thought, and the coolant just aided in keeping it cool. Does the tranny like/hate certain temps?

I had a magnaflow dual in single out on my 3.5 and it sounded great If youre not going to upgrade your piping to stainless though, a magnaflow stainless muffler may be overkill, you can get similar for very cheap

Nothing wrong with it... hard to see but there is a hitch reciever bar under my bumper, center exhaust is flushed with the reciever mount doesnt stick out or anything It does look like a big wide boner from that downward angle though, cant see any of the piping when your standing

sorry to bump this but did anyone get definitive info on this swap?? I want discs!!

nice fab

Boooooost

Thats why I like having my girlfriends cavalier around. She pays the repair bills, I fill the tank when traveling and reap the good mileage My VQ spends more time crawling than it does on any open roads. I probably barely get into top gear on my commute to work

Im ordering poly bushings front and back for my 01 2wd Qx4. Im orderring from 4x4parts as there the only ones who carry the bushings, so I want to buy a set of stainless brake lines and just get it from them to keep it simple. They used to have a set for 01-04 specific I think, now the only set I can find on the site is an extended 2" set for the 96-99.5 specific. https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/extended-brake-lines-p-5323.html Id imagine they are the same?? And having them being extended even though my rig is actually lowerred doesnt bother me, not like its going to bind or anything.... Do you guys think its safe to order??

im hoping my one rear wheel just needs adjusting. i will climb under the truck tomorrow and try and find the star wheel Are the 2 M8 threaded holes in the front of the drum the access holes to remove the drum?? Just push 2 long m8 bolts in there?? I wanna see what kinda life ive got left

Ive had a few wet dreams of rear disks lol. For now Im going to settle on overhauling these rear brakes and installing some stainless braided lines to help me get the truck to a stop with the new summer 20" tires I just put on I hope winters overs haha

Thats crazy, I really hope people dont try mountain climbs like that and combine booze... Could get messy in a hurry

I'll have to poke around and find that brake adjuster and see if I can loosen it enough so there isnt THAT much drag on the drum, would be great. Wish I could convert to a nice disk brake setup

Well once I put my tires back on, I could spin the wheel with my hands but it was difficult. What adjuster is there to rotate inward?? I dont think it would be so easy to just pull the drum off and be able to slip it back on since there quite old and sticking like this. Im a n :poke:OO b to drum brakes.

I went to rotate my tires today and noticed my rear drums were quite rusty looking so I started hitting them with the wire brush. I noticed that when I went to spin the drum that the passenger side rear would not spin AT ALL, grabbing the drum as hard as I could with gloves and I couldnt budge it an inch. While the drivers side can be spun with one finger .... Something fail?? Stuck?? I think Ive heard that once you take the drum off you cant simply just stick it back on so I didnt try to remove it yet. And Ive yet to have to touch drum brakes in my life so Im not to excited to jump on it lol What do you guys think it could be, I mean it drives down the road fine no noises. Maybe that rotor is constantly holding the pads on me?? I dont want to overheat anything, appreciate any help

Why cant places ship cheap to Canada!!!

FSM says they are to be replaced everytime they are removed. Mine just looks crummy and I was hoping I could grab one from Lowes in stainless steel before the install so Im hoping someone knows the thread size

Anyone know the shock bolts thread size?? I orderred new shocks but I doubt they come with new nuts

Does the truck overheat, burn coolant and throw clouds of white smoke when you drive?? Coolant in the oil? Im curious what symptoms of a blown HG youve got other than a puny residual leak The sure way to professionally check for a blown headgasket is by doing a cylinder leakdown test, you could probably pay 1 hour labour at a shop and get it done, or buy the tool yourself for probably under $100. If you can change a spark plug on the VQ then thats all you really need to know to do a leakdown test

they seem to sell a "solid option" and a "oem hydraulic" Only a few dollars difference in price... You think by solid they mean SOLID rigid mount?? EDIT: looks like a damn good site, since I dont wanna make another thread. I also need new balljoints, but I was hoping to get a GOOD quality one that had a grease zerk, which I thought the MOOG brand for our rigs had. But in Rockautos pics I dont see a zerk... Could it just be the wrong part pictured?? Id like to pick up balljoints aswell with this order THanks guys

Rockauto eh, Ive heard of that site from my girlfriends dad but never checked it out, sounds like I gotta. Thanks!!

Dealer wanted $280 for the drivers mount Best place to order OEM and get it shipped to canada is courtesyparts.com so far Ive found

Glad it worked for ya, pop the cap in a day or two and top it off