WOT

Glad it worked for ya, pop the cap in a day or two and top it off

4x4 lowerring coils are worth the $400 and knowone else makes them to lower... so you kinda have to I love mine

Ya I got a custom/copy of the missing link, I really would like a strut brace for some reason though

my alt has so much oil residue and dirt on it from an oil cooler leak I wouldnt even know where to start removing it. Im to scared to clean it incase it stops working from the cleaners being sprayed on it and washed off

Oh just filled with fluid, makes a bit of sence. Ill have to check ebay and online for better pricing

Pretty spendy mount locally, lowest I found was $150. They say it is hydraulic and thats why it is so much, why in the crap would there be anything to do with hydraulics in the motor mount??

I really wish theyd follow through with the strut bat prototypes...

You have air trapped in the system or just low on coolant. You need to run the car with the rad cap OFF, preferably on an incline or curb to make the rad neck the highest point, heater set to hot inside, let the engine idle until the thermostat opens which will take a while in that cold of temperature. You will no its open when you see coolant in the rad neck start moving/flowing pretty good. This is when all the bubbles came out for me, I held it at 2000-2500 rpm for atleast a minute. Topped up the coolant After youve done this, Id say put the cap on and go for a short drive, park the car for atleast 4 hours and let the engine COMPLETELY cool (hoses have no pressure AT ALL) then pop the rad cap back off and top it up... Should be golden...

Ya its snowing here so I havent had a chance to really get under and check it out to really see where the bolts are or how to even go about getting this out. Hopefully I can take the mount out without anything else having to come with it to gain access Im gonna hit up Napa and Carquest on my lunch to see how much the mount will run me and if you can buy them individually Im just glad I noticed this before the damn engine ripped all the mounts

Thought Id show a video of how much torque my VQ has... Uploaded with <a target='_blank' href='http://imageshack.us'>ImageShack.us</a> So ya, I beat on my car pretty good from stop lights, but I didnt think my engine mounts would cry like this!! I have noticed a clunk in the last few month from the front of the car when letting off the gas from WOT, but never thought THIS was going on under the hood I had just painted my engine cover and noticed a good blemish on the top and noticed that it had rubbed up against my hood in the few days it was installed so I made this video Motor mounts dont look to expensive as a part, but @!*% if I can see any of the bolts to change the part. Anyone swapped a mount on a 2wd before??

anything let go yet??

I didnt notice any negative things about my 4x4parts bushings, all good things. I definitely dont have any "doomm" sound from my rear end though Maybe something else was messed with during instalation? Maybe the stablilizer links??

I was just there on the weekend to didnt see that

I have never been able to make coolant spill from that relief plug

I really like OEM clamps so Ill probably buy a new overflow hose and clamp today on my way to work if they arent stupid expensive Anyone know the purpose of the vent cap on the back firewall and when it should be openned and closed during the refill process??

A simple link securing it to the chassis makes a racecar?

Maybe have some fun and fabricate strut mount to hold the engine.... You could probably build something off of a DIY crossmember link to the transmission and hold everything pretty solid Just ideas...

I got my replacement fender and hood on Ebay Fit perfect, factory paint.

This part stuck out to me. I wouldnt say my overflow hose is in "top" condition, especially since I have no idea which way it was originally routed, and I have since routed it myself thru easy to access spots I didnt know you were "allowed" to leave the overflow past the max line either, I didnt even know coolant got sucked back into the rad from the overflow. Maybe I should check and just change that hose, do you guys have a clamp on there the overflow hose connects to the rad neck? I dont

I do have an OEM nissan cap, bought new this summer. I have tried jacking the car up high, filling the system, turning on the engine til the tstat opens and the water starts visibly moving in the rad, then I rev it for a while til the bubbles stop coming out, top up to the neck of the rad, put the cap on and think Im done. Ive done that 5+ times now, and everytime I eventually lose heat at idle and when I take the cap off my rad is low and I have pushed some coolant into the overflow. At first I thought I had a bad headgasket, but then a guy I trust mechanics wise said that trapped air in the cooling system will cause it to blow coolant into the overflow. I just dont get how Im not getting the air out when I use this vacuum tool to fill, and then even run the engine for 20 min..... Does anyone have any insight on when to use / not to use that vent cap on the back firewall?? I really just want to do this one more time, and have it solid and reliable for the winter!! Thanks so far guys

Well the rad is 2 years old so I doubt its clogged. The heater core very well could be cloggged somehow I dont know much about that. I did take both hoses off about a year ago I guess and run the garden hose through it no problem with good flow

So Ive been plagued for atleast a year now with a cooling system that just doesnt want to work. Mainly because Im the guy that wants to do EVERYTHING myself. No matter what I seem to try, I always end up with air in my cooling system. I recently bought the airlift system that puts your hoses and system under vacuum and fills by sucking coolant in. And it seemed to work, but after a week I began to hear gurling from behind the dash, and loss of heat from the system at idle. Is there a clear cut way to fill this system from empty and get all the bubbles out?? One thing that bugs me is I have this coolant/air vent coming up between the engine and firewall with a rubber cap on it. At any time I can pull that cap off (even after just refilling the coolant) and the level in the rad will drop as soon as I pull that vent cap off.... Im just really curious and frustrated I guess on how to do this system properly and keep my cooling system air free.... Its been a while.... Cheers

IF only that all aluminum rad was good for the 3.5 aswell!!! Dam I would love an all aluminum, my factory china replacement rad I got last year has already started to blow the top section of the tank off Build quality looks tits on that aluminum

Any pics of the manifold OFF of the car? or a view of how it connects the passenger bank exhaust into the manifold??

The tranny isnt even the weak point in my mind, the block in my eyes is a ticking time bomb with that much boost and an FMU for tuning Still no close up pictures?? Under the hood, your turbo is way up and off to the side with the compressor side outlet facing in an interesting outward direction Im curious how the piping was done there Getting that manifold fabricated must have been tiiiiiiiight, I quiver at the thought of even removing my manifolds on the VQ