WOT

Silverstars are bright and cheap, but they fail often. My other cars have silverstars and Ive had a few burn up on me Oem hid's with 6000k bulbs for the win

Useless little pocket to me

Idea on how to trick it? Mine looks pretty beat up, as my stereo puts a hurting on my hatch and I had the "hoop" thats bolted to the bottom sill pushed pretty far forward so it would shut TIGHT and not have any play in the door so it wouldnt vibrate... Maybe I'll try pulling the hoop back towards the back of the car and see if it changes anything Would be great to know atleast what sensor it thinks is popped

Ya I tried that aswell as I have my rear window pretty tight with thick weather stripping so my stereo doesnt shake it to death, and I closed the latch manually with the window open, light still didnt go off Im having no luck finding any info on the sensors, or how many of them and there locations in the fsm, has anyone ever stumbled upon it? Im also ASSUMING that when my doors are shut, the pin sensors are being depressed enough... maybe I should just tape them down... but I think I may be missing one or something, under the hood or maybe ever a wiring fault or something Im ready to just pull the damn bulb

Damn thing is still on!! How the hell to I find and prove what sensor it thinks is tripped?? Is there more of the damn things!! I'll hunt the fsm again

Looks like a nice piece

its brand new oem this year aswell, did a new thermostat, cap , upper and lower hoses aswell as a full flush just before winter

Rad cap is new about 2 months ago, its a prestone unit from canadian tire, 13 pounds I believe Am I wrong to think the finned area of the rad should be evenly heated even at idle?? I just dont get why it gets so hot so quick as soon as I rev the engine

Was fine last summer. Rad is only about a year old though, its not oem I got it off ebay it seems quite thin, but I dont recall if I compared it to the oem one or not. I just dont like the fact how fast it seems to heat up in the fin area where my probe is right as I rev the engine, almost like the water isnt flowing all over the rad until I do so. I figured the heat would be even

Few things have lead me to believe I may need to replace the waterpump on my VQ35DE. First I noticed my radiator doesnt seem to be evenly as hot to the touch, say I have the motor running from cold for 10 minutes, the upper rad hose is HOT, the lower rad hose is warm but not near as hot. I also noticed because I was feeling the finned area of the rad where my temp sensor probe is, that when I rev the engine to say 1500-2000rpm the finned area about 3" down from the upper rad neck goes from being able to be touched without feeling hurt, to burning hot and I have to take my hand off within 5 second of revving. Stop the revs, and the burning sensation goes away ( kinda funny ) I also noticed I dont have the greatest heat output at idle, compared to say cruising @ 2000rpm. Coolant level and overflow is fine, radiator/thermostat is new and the heatercore was flushed 2 seperate times this year. So Im curious, are these signs of a failing pump @ 119k miles? Ive only had the truck for 35 but am unsure of its previous maintenace. DO they just "wear down" overtime, or is it a part that either functions 100% or not at all Hard as hell to do?

Nice info, so that would be a completely drop in coil?? Giving 4 - 4.5" lift??

Well yeah that helps , but I mean what about where to place it in the bay itself, left/right and front/back... Obviously you have your 305 or 350 or whatever, bolted up to a trans, say a T400R or something, would our rear end be capable of holding it or would the entire rear end need to be replaced and reworked aswell Just trying to get the wheels spinnin on ideas, Im sure someones gonna do it....

but what mechanism tells the car is if a door is open back there, I dont see a sensor on either hatch or window in the rear Maybe my stereo took another victim

EDIT: Well I got the window open, turns out you can do it from the rear hatch I just had to jiggle with it a little and push down on the window BUT I dont see a push sensor under the glass.... Could it be build right into the latch perhaps?? I wish it told you which door is thought was open to pinpoint this a little better, mind you all the other doors are shut so Im sure its the trunk or possibly the hood? I noticed a push pin under the hood, but Id imagine my hood has it closed...

damnit!! Why wont my glas unlatch!! I remember this happened last summer to, I had it locked and turned the key in the hatch one day and it popped open after not being able to open it forever. Ill go try every combination and button I can think of on it lol The window is shut and latch, maybe my weather stripping is not letting it push the sensor down I guess, hoping its that sensor, would be nice to keep the bulb in this gauge cluster this time :coffee!:

Yup factory shroud I sold locally for $30 I think, and the fan clutch and fan assembly itself was in poor condition so that hit the trash bin. I mounted the e-fans as pullers. On my "race" car Ive never had success mounting fans as pushers so I didnt want to try on this setup, and the factory a/c condensor is much in the way on my Qx4 anyways

You did this because you were getting alot of feedback through the steering wheel? Props to DIY

I have electric fans, dual 14" slim fans. Only 2.5" thick at the center compared to the stock shroud and fan which is HUGE!!! Never had a problem overheating, and it has a built in a/c override. Turns on at 185 I think turns off at 175. The kit was relatively cheap on Ebay I think around $100 and 2 hours or so to install teh wiring cleanly and permanent Id suggest a cooling system flush if youre overheating while idling though, mine definetely never did that with the a/c on and I used to be in hours of traffic and I have enough fat to cool aswell haha. Also the factory gauge isnt the most accurate thing in the world, along with the e-fans I installed a water temp gauge to know the almost exact temp of the car For reference, I can override the fans so they dont turn on, and when my aftermarket temp gauge shows 190* the gauge very close to the H mark, 195* and the factory gauge is pegged out, and 195 isnt exactly overheating... Im pretty sure you need to be well into the 200's before your in danger EDIT: the factory fan I was told prodcues about 2500cfm, but has a great shroud that pulls air through All of the rads surface. I think my fans combine to 3000cfm with no shroud and Ive had no problems on the hottest days

must be behind that glass because I took a hard look all the way around where the hatch itself seals to the body and seen nothing on either the hatch side or the body side

Imagine what he may have done with it in 4 years lol

I always thought it had to do with the compass

I swapped gauge clusters today, mine had a cracked plastic piece and I found a replacement oem cluster for less than half of the price of a new plastic piece, and it was within 3k of my actual mileage, score. Anyways I put it in and noticed the door open and seatbelt lights were on. I pulled these 2 bulbs out of my last cluster. I checked all the doors and rear hatch were shut and closed but the light was still on. Went around to every door pushing in the "sprung door sensor" and the light never went out. The rear hatch itself didnt seem to have a sensor? I didnt see one around the exterior, then I thought maybe the back glass window might have one. But ofcourse that wouldnt open, I do have some thick gasket under the glass to prevent rattle from my stereo so that made it really hard to SHUT, but I dont ever use it to open it so I dont know, either its way to cold out or its locked someway weird and my button wont open it. Im just curious if there is a sensor back there or the light was only on the 4 sensors, or maybe even on under the hood? That light has to go

Those guys dont mess around!! 4 years ago to lol

I figured there would be more involved in the actual placement, alignment and angle of the engine to the rear end and suspension and stuff. Our steering rack and steering arm is quite out of the way, so you could probly keep that oem. Power steering could probly be adapted using the SBC power steering pump and running new lines... hmmm what else. May or may not need a bigger fuel pump, assuming you could use the factory fuel tank atleast, but they make not make a bigger pump for our car. Setting up the rear end is what I really dont get

Do you happen to have a good read on some basics to know when simply taking a big crate 350 and putting it into another RWD chassis and making it work, things like how to know where to place the motor, angle/height, centering, custom driveshaft and shift linkage. Basically what problems other than space people go through when throwing an SBC in a car not meant for it. Although I see it being far easier to do an SBC in out cars than in a miata amongst other cars some people are shoehorning them into, weve got some room and no problems with motor height clearance