WOT

I was just watching Jims video, he seems to have used the exact same kit I linked to. THey really must be universal, I was wonderring why it had 2 o rings to seal against the engine <object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l15ZGYe8S2M?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l15ZGYe8S2M?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

Does it sound good?? Im quite surprised knowone has done this, maybe Im stupid and just like messing with my truck and should leave it alone. But in my head this seems like a perfectly fine idea with no downfalls other than a leak, which I would see right away Id imagine.

The guy got back to me and it indeed does use a M20 X 1.5 thread on his adapter. I think Im fgoing to go ahead and give this a try, my local hose fitting place says it will be about $60-80 to get my custom braided lines in 36" length with the -10an fiting crimped on. Was only like $20 for regular hydraulic hose but I thikn I want that extra protection especially for oil lines. I think this is worth the money to me. Ill check the adapter when I get it to make sure its mounting surfaces are flat and true, and cross my fingers!!

It is a DR2 bulb. 6000 looks perfect white. I tried 8k in my qx4 and it looked blue and "cheap" to me EDIT: sorry your asking about the highbeam, I changed mine to silverstar bulbs but I forget the type of bulb

The thing is I dont know if its my struts, mounts, bearings, stabilizer end links, ball joints etc are whats making the noise. I dont have a ton of money to just shotgunning parts at it until the noise stops. I was just curious of kinda assembly the front strut was made up of Could it just be my stabilizer links?? I changed them with oem ones maybe 15km ago.. but I put them on myself didnt do any special procedure or anything just put them on and tightenned them down if it makes a difference in there life.

Im have an air bubble in my system aswell so Im going to try this method Little research, Here it is with a little more detail quoted from a master technician: "You have an air pocket in the heater core. Remove the radiator cap, turn the heat temperature control to the hottest setting but keep the blower fan off. It helps to have the front of the car higher than the rear so park on an incline or jack the front of the car up. Run the motor for at least 15 minutes to reach operating temperature. Rev the motor to 2,500 rpm and watch the radiator coolant for air bubbles. It helps to squeeze the upper radiator hose while revving the motor to get the air out. When you think you have all the air pocket removed let the motor idle and check the heater temperature at idle. You can turn the blower fan on to the medium speed to check for output. If it feels better, shut the motor off and look into the radiator neck to observe the coolant. If the coolant pulsates up and down you still have a bit of air in the system. If the coolant stays level, put the cap back on and you should be OK. I always put more coolant in the reservoir, about 2" higher than the max line. When the car cools down it will still draw more coolant from the reservoir. Check the reservoir level the next day before driving and set the level to the max mark."

I kinda gave him a lame responce back and said I was interested in buying 20 of them and really needed to know the thread pitch of this adapter before I spent so much money, not to be a dick or anything, but I hope that makes him actually check and give me accurate numbers Check back tomorrow I guess

I actually did do alot of researching, I couldnt come across a thread with maybe an expoloded view of the pieces and there position in the assembly. Ive read alot of stories about not using KYB strut mounts, and to stick with OEM, but every other thread or so someone mentions bearings, brackets and bolts and I just really havent seen it before so I dont know what to expect/buy

God damn that skid plate is nice I cant stop looking at it!! EDIT: The adapter guy just emailed me back with a stupid ass responce. I asked "Do you know the thread pitch and diameter that this adapter uses so I can make sure it will spin onto my engine. Thank you" He wrote "Hello. Probably will not since it is universal. You might have to custom make some fittings. thank you! "

Thanks for looking that up I will wait to see what the seller responds to my email, but I may just go head and give this thing a whirl. Im a fair judge of quality especially since Ive worked with aluminum for so long That access window in the skid plate is a great idea, mine isnt as thick as yours looks though, I guess I could weld more material on the back to leave clearance for countersunk screw heads...

Thank you so much for noticing it was an auction for only one coil!!! Wow I woulda been uber pissed when I opened that box lol I'll look into that link and send them an email, thanks for it

This is the only promising link I have found. OPn ebay ofcourse. http://cgi.ebay.ca/NISSAN-UNIVERSAL-RELOCATION-MALE-FITTING-ADAPTOR-KIT-/180540631354?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A350Z&hash=item2a090f693a Do you guys see any reason why that wouldnt fit and thread onto the stock location?? Assuming the thread pitch it the same. The one end just spins on like a filter, then mount the other end where I want it with new filter (im unsure what filter this thing uses but that shouldnt be to hard) Then I can get 2 -8an lines made up and poof... Any reason that wont work? Prones to warped flanges? Leaks? The orientation of the lines looks to be correct for placement on our engine and would have the lines facing down and foward where I dont believe there is anything in its way...

It just so happens I am a machinist.... but am not employed in the machining world at the moment lol, I wouldnt want to design my own anyways, Im no engineeer They do make alot of thread on Universal adapters. I would need to figure the thread and pitch size though. I REALLY hate dropping my skid plate and spilling oil in the cold. This would be of so much help, and could be fun to change the oil lol. I have electric fans and a cold air intake replacing the factory shroud and huge intake box, so I have alot of room to work with in terms on mounting options for this relocation

hmmmm, sorry if Im weird for wanting to go lower lol. 1" of lift you say eh.... with my stereo and batteries n such that would probably work out to about stock. I was thinking of getting these, $160 shipped to canada http://cgi.ebay.ca/COIL-SPRING-REAR-1999-2004-JEEP-GRAND-CHEROKEE-WJ-/390240206727?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5adc20ff87 Or did you find a better option? Hoping to retain a nice daily driver ride quality I would definetely follow your comment on welding on a piece of 3" exhaust pipe onto the center of the stock perch, seems very easy.

All I see are universal sandwich adapters. AMSoil had a dual kit specifically for our cars but I dont need dual filters or have $329 for the kit lol. I dont mind if I have to piece it together, Id much rather make my own lines and just buy the adapter to the block, adapter that holds the filter where you want it, and just measure and get my own lines made. I dont see any of that though, would be of some help if anyone knew our oil filter thread and pitch

Mornin guys, another oil change is coming up, and well, I hate changing this cars oil, having to take off my skid plate and still getting oil spill problems is getting on my last nerve lol Id like to relocate the filter higher up in the engine bay most likely over on the air filter side since Ive made so much room there Ive been unable to find a kit for my VQ35DE equipped motor though, is it best to buy a premade kit?? Or just assemble one yourself? Didnt know of any quality to look for , or stay away from, or if anyones even done this before.

Well the rear has gr2's so Im probly going to do the same in the front. I think my springs are fine so I probably wont touch those. I just didnt know what exactly is sandwiched under my strut and body. Is there any threads on here with anyone taking the front shocks out and showing the removal process?? Sounds like alot of pieces need to be bought individually though, wish there was a kit!!

I think I got it, thanks for the tip guys, I started it up and blasted the heat on auto full blast. Popped the cap and a good 500-700m went in. Aparently thats enough to make a good difference int he temps the fan blows because my ride to work was toasty warm. Hope thats all for this thread!!

Enough tranny fluid to come out of the dipstick is ALOT more than the spec ammount, it only take 10-30min max to drain the fluid down to an area in the "green zone" I paid to have this Vq tranny serviced once already, and I would definitely take all precautions in preventing another

Over the max mark is never "normal" I find it gives false readings like I said when you chck when its warm as oil has just run up the fill tub and gets on the dipstick when you pull it out. Since there is a cold mark, why not let everything flow down back into the pan and get an uncontaminated reading?? Warm might be what the manual says, but I can never get a consistent reading

No... I put the heat on full for 10 seconds BEFORE drained it lol I didnt know you had to have the heat on while filling...

To flush my block and rad, I simply stuck the garden hose into the rad cap hole with low pressure until all green stopped coming out of the lower rad hose. Then I connected the lower rad hose and removed the engine drain plugs, and let clean water flow through those for a while. Then I let the water drain out of those drain holes and I drained my rad via the little drain plug at the botom of it. I then put in 2-3liters of coolant mix, started the car, took the rad cap and air vent on the firewall off, filled with coolant until it came to the top, gave the rad hoses some squeezes, no bubbles came out. Sealed it up The trouble is though, I then went for a drive, maybe 12-15min, my aftermarket temp gauge went up to only 150* at its highest and kept going down to 135ish when driving (its cold as hell I guess) but the car would never produce any heat through the vents?? Like no heat at all I parked the car before I head to work. Im hoping before I leave I will pop the rad cap off and see I need alot of topup or something. Stumped why i have no heat, but Im pretty glad that thermostat is outa there!!! Id appreciate any help

SO I swapped the thermostat just now, I think I found a problem, maybe the problem all together. Im assuming this gasket isnt supposed to be ann crunched and munched under that spring with loose rubber gasket dangling around. And heres the new pretty beast installed And my naked engine bay with winter engine cover

The front end of my car needs some love, I hit bumps and tracks way to fast and its taken its toll and now repaying me with clunks and not so comforatable noises when going over uneasy unstable roads. Ive replaced the sway bar end links with oem ones twice now. And just recently a set of new lower ball joints that I am unsure of there quality (was ebay, Im actually kinda pissed I used them) But Im thinking my problem may lie in my shocks or the mounts/bearing above it Is there anyway to isolate or check these parts individually?? Ive never done the front struts so I dont know how to take it apart or what exact parts are in there. My 2001 is 2wd so it may be different than alot of yours anyways I dont know the difference Are there any kits available for the items I would need for the from strut replacement OTHER than the struts? I read that OEM is best but I cant find a list of things to buy for my 2wd

How much are you looking to spend at the lowest? I know my neighbour keeps his black one in his basement. Maybe $40 for a case of beer would persuade him lol, but your in the states shipping would be a bit for such a long item and I dont know how much your looking to spend