WOT

I swapped gauge clusters today, mine had a cracked plastic piece and I found a replacement oem cluster for less than half of the price of a new plastic piece, and it was within 3k of my actual mileage, score. Anyways I put it in and noticed the door open and seatbelt lights were on. I pulled these 2 bulbs out of my last cluster. I checked all the doors and rear hatch were shut and closed but the light was still on. Went around to every door pushing in the "sprung door sensor" and the light never went out. The rear hatch itself didnt seem to have a sensor? I didnt see one around the exterior, then I thought maybe the back glass window might have one. But ofcourse that wouldnt open, I do have some thick gasket under the glass to prevent rattle from my stereo so that made it really hard to SHUT, but I dont ever use it to open it so I dont know, either its way to cold out or its locked someway weird and my button wont open it. Im just curious if there is a sensor back there or the light was only on the 4 sensors, or maybe even on under the hood? That light has to go

Those guys dont mess around!! 4 years ago to lol

I figured there would be more involved in the actual placement, alignment and angle of the engine to the rear end and suspension and stuff. Our steering rack and steering arm is quite out of the way, so you could probly keep that oem. Power steering could probly be adapted using the SBC power steering pump and running new lines... hmmm what else. May or may not need a bigger fuel pump, assuming you could use the factory fuel tank atleast, but they make not make a bigger pump for our car. Setting up the rear end is what I really dont get

Do you happen to have a good read on some basics to know when simply taking a big crate 350 and putting it into another RWD chassis and making it work, things like how to know where to place the motor, angle/height, centering, custom driveshaft and shift linkage. Basically what problems other than space people go through when throwing an SBC in a car not meant for it. Although I see it being far easier to do an SBC in out cars than in a miata amongst other cars some people are shoehorning them into, weve got some room and no problems with motor height clearance

Mine used just over 1.5 liters I went with royal purple synthetic for my non lsd diff

Those headlights are oem with projector units like that?? Very nice looking didnt know that was an option. Id definitely clean up the top right side of that hole though

You really dont think a SBC would fit in there length and width wise?? I figured we had tons of room for it and that would never be a problem I thought trans tunnel/rear end would be the big hurdle

Ive got the 3.5 and wish there were more parts available for it not as quick as Id like it to be And converting to 2wd Id assume

Once my motor goes Im probly switching to a V8... Id love to see someone do it first lol, obviously youd probly lose alot of your luxury items and have to do alot of fabrication and one off pieces and problems, possibly even may have to make a bigger tunnel for the trans. a/c would probly be lost If you stayed with a carbed engine though, it would probly be very do-able depending on your skill level

Do they have good light output?? They look a bit out of place where they sit, maybe just the pic, curious on there function though My friend has the 6" Hella lights (4of them) on his F150 and god damn do they ever throw light as far as you can see!!!

Most of the relays under there are the same prong style so I simply swap the relay out with one from another source that I know is good working There is also a fuse box inside the car where your left knee would be while driving against the dash, you open the little tray and it pops out revealing another 30 or so fuses But Im pretty sure the fog light fuse is in the box beside the battery

Thanks bud I overthink everything

Really I had no idea that was standard, but this is my first automatic vehicle I guess, just familiarizing myself with the odds and ends of it I did go for a drive after I replaced the hoses and then checked fluid I was more concerned with how little came out of the rad when I disconnected the hoses, didnt know if there was supposed to be a good quantity in there and I have a blockage somewhere, or if everything is good.

Found out something new about my truck yesterday. Our radiators have an oem oil cooler built right inside them!! I was replacing some worn clamps and random vacuum lines and such and noticed the 2 lines coming out from the bottom of the radiator and going to the middle bottom of the engine were looking quite nasty. So I bought a 4' section of hose and some clamps to replace the corroded ones. I got a good surprise when I pulled the first line expecting COOLANT to drain out of the hose (I thought it was a heater hose of some kind) only to find that damn ATF fluid spilled out. I changed both hoses no worries. But heres the "problem" I only lost about 200-300ML of fluid, and I think most of that came from the engine side of the hose, I dont know if any at all came out of the rad barb actually, this kind of alarmed me as I figured I should have lost alot of ATF since it is a very low point hose on the car, or at the very least there should be a good ammount of fluid filling the oil cooler ( I have no idea how big it is inside capacity wise mind you ), but my ATF level was within spec. Just dont know what to make of this Just curious, any opinions on this? Anyone ever played with or known about this cooler?

If only I could make international phone calls!!

Well some people claim more or less so it would be nice to know from a manufacturer how much lift it gave, front and rear in real world conditions. I still dont know which to go with.

I used the clutch plate hole for my huge wires, its a perfect spot and comes out at a perfect location inside the car to run the wire, its not sharp either but rubber hose sliced down one side and cut to length to fit around the cutout doesnt hurt

Put the batteries on a trickle charge for the heck of it. Re-aimed the washer nozzles Cleaned headlights and taillights Tomorrow: New upper rad hose lower tranny cooler hoses coolant system flush oem in cabin air filter remove wiring for aftermaket temp gauge I also need to verify my transmission fluid level, I kept getting readings of being way to full when checking it HOT, but Ill let the truck sit for a couple hours and see what it reads and drain it or leave it from there Gonna be a cold sunday

Would be nice to know...

Couple hundred Aussie dollars to the right inspector... And shes got a paper-legal V8 swap

Have you done anything to the passenger side sensor or only the drivers side so far

Have a pic of it spaced out 1.5"? Why would it rub if it was spaced out more?

Ya Im debating keeping my car low and trying to keep it like I have, which is lower than stock, but maintain the weight somehow Or if I should lift it 3" rear with WJ coils, 2" medium duty front. And throw my wheel spacers on it. Mind you my wheel tucks in behind the fender right now if I get 2 people to step on the hitch, if I were to space them out, is there a good chance of hitting the fender?? Ive never done spacers before and dont know much much lift is needed to clear if I were to space them out and go for that wide look

I cant really tell what conclusion you came to either with the 02 sensor side maybe Im just stupid at reading. But if your code is for bank 1 sensor 2, it is for the passenger side

You dont HAVE to leave the battery disconnected for 24 hours for it to reset. A nissan tech told 2 ways to do it. First way is you disconnect the positive and ground from your battery and then tie them together with a piece of mechanics wire to keep them in contact, leave disconnected from battery and touching for 15 min and it will be fully reset. You must be sure to have the cables disconnected from the battery before grounding the positive wire though obviously Second way was to simply remove positive and negative cables and apply the brakes 5 times to deplete all the energy left in the system, wait for 15 min, and it would be reset. I personally do it the first way now and it works great, all stored codes are gone and reset after 15 min of being tied together and disconnected from the battery, but an IDLE air volume relearn procedure has to be done on my car everytime I reconect, probably because I have a custom cold air intake so the air values are off from the factory settings.