WOT

Switching to manual will be no easy feat

Id love to see how the manifold was made and actually fit, do you know much about the install or did your mechanic do most?? I put a 50 shot on my VQ a while back and the auto trans HATED it and slipped bad everytime, I cant see your tranny if its oem holding that power for long at all. Would love to see some street pulls!! Congrats

Sorry to hear, I plan on keeping my Q until it falls apart or someone hits me

I wonderred why Ive seen quite a few rigs at my local (milton) dealer Now I know!

thanks for the link bud!!

Oh I got that sir! Mines a 2.5" catback I made with a flowmaster 40 and deleted factory resonators, it currently dumps just after the axle as I am thinking about making a custom rear bumper. But still sounds great

They are not "covers" on the taillights I actually made taillight copies out of fiberglass and frenched in those 24LED strips. One of a kind... I personally loved the blacked out oems I had, but the cops didnt and I got several tickets. I like the updated look of the LED's and it keeps the piggy's happy And hell I just like modyfying things

Ouch, no love for the 2wd guy eh! Anyways its raining and I put my snow tires on today so I used my cell phone Looked better with the 20's

yes i wanted to lower it and get rid of any fender gap mine is 2wd, not doing the sfd the springs are sick

4x4parts is great to get alot of nissan stuff from at a good price, they definetely never answerred my email questions but I orderred anyways

^^ how have you not ripped your side fender caps off with wheels that close to them

I installed them a few nights ago and they sure are lowerring springs. About 3" in the rear with my stereo and 3.25" in the front after I cut half a coil off. I really need to pick up some new front end parts and get a good alignment

I bought these used springs off a local, supposed to be the 4x4parts.com 2" lowering coil spring set. This is a picture of a front and back spring. The left spring is: 9 3/4" Tall 6 Coils 6.2" OD 5" ID .560" wire diam The right spring is tapered: 10 3/4" Tall 5 coils The bottom is 6.2 OD, 4.7" ID The top is 6.75" OD, 5.5" ID .630 wire diameter I used a measuring tape and a crappy caliper I have in the garage so my numbers are approximate, but can anyone confirm this is there lowering spring?? Thanks

Are you only concerned with the rear?? If so the airlift 1000 is exactly what you are looking for. It is just an airbag that goes inside the spring. I had the same problem as you, my stereo cause my rear end to bottom out, I put the bags in at low psi (5-7) and it no longer bottomed out. If you run 20+ psi the rear end is SOLID and barely squats at all no matter how much force Its a nice cheap kit, and aside from the cheap airline that comes with it, the bags are very sturdy and reliable

SBC... how could you not...

Any pics of when the sensors got installed on the rims? Im curious how they look inside and out and if a tire shop has a hard time putting on a tire around them Looks real nice, got me interested in looking into a TPMS system

Now Ive gotta make a video tomorrow

They make a 6" SFD now?? Id love to lift my 2wd for cheap for the winter for the fun of it.

My trucks steering wheel recently went 20* to left to get it to go straight.... sucks, looks funny, Im gonna hope my alignment when I put my new tires fixes it

OUCH!! I didnt think of you 4wd guys... Mine is 2wd, no axle in the way, just a big open space... thats a horrible design as mnost of these trucks are 4wd

Im freaking stumped with this car!! I am having trouble following the seemingly simplest diagnostics and procedures from the FSM for this thing. First heres the problem. If I were to start it, sometimes it will crank for an extra second or two and then kick over, sometimes it goes right away but not usually. BUT it will ALWAYS/EVERYTIME stall out instantly if you dont give it a little gas for 2-3 seconds to keep the rpms up. Then I can let off the gas and it will idle on its own, but LOW. 500-600rpm at best. Runs perfect on the open road, only problem is startup. I figure it all started once I messed around with cleaning the MAF, adding a cold air intake, changing spark plugs and trying some "diagnostics" Right now Im starting on the simple procedures. I was trying to do all 3 of the procedures in this helpful thread. http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-ecu-relearning-procedures-t445702.html ACCELERATOR PEDAL RELEASED POSITION LEARNING THROTTLE VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING IDLE AIR VOLUME LEARNING I dont think any of the three are taking. Theres no indicator for the released pedal position test, on the throttle valve position test I dont hear ANYTHING in my engine when the car turns off, what are you supposed to be listening to?? Is the throttle valve another name for throttle body?? And the Idle Air Volume test definitely isnt working, I dont even know if Im doing the correct test for my year ( 2001.5 ) but I have been trying to do the one in the link, and my CEL never starts blinking, and my idle doesnt change. So it isnt working So what do you guys think I should try?? Ive seen another version of the idle air volume test, which just involves key on and off a few times and disconnecting the brown plug on the throttle body, but that one didnt work either, my car stalled out when I reconnected the plug. Ive got 3 manuals and dont even know if Im using the right one. I wouldnt mind some clarification on this either, when it says key "OFF" do they mean just clicked all the way back counterclockwise? Completely out of ignition? One click back from "ON" position? Was a little unclear on that. I'll leave it at that for now, this is getting long!! Hope I can get some much needed help getting this biatch to start like it should!! Thanks guys!!

Thanks again for your help, that link was super helpful and a nice printout. Im off work in 20 min hope it works!!! I want a perfect idle again!

Ya I seen that link I was hoping to be able to download. One thing Ive read about being different in the Idle Volume Relearn test. Im trying to do it as my idle is way low but have been unsuccessful. For the manual I have, its simply turn the key on and off a couple times, pull one connector, and your good. But that test wasnt correcting anything for me. I read a few posts about people needing to push the pedal a bunch of times and was much more involved. I figure I need to do that test. But now the only manuals I can find only have the key on/off test I was already doing I hate the internet

nevermind those numbers make perfect sence if you stare haha EDIT: is there a link to the 01.5 manual?? I can only find 01/02/03

Those numbers confuse me... how do I have one of the last ones?? But Im happy. here I am doing diagnotic for a 2001 Idiot I appreciate the numbers thanks alot though!! Especially at this hour I thought I was going to wait til morning to get to work, not anymore!! cheers