WOT

E-fans also is a mod thats easy as pie on our trucks and aparently frees up horsepower. I cant say I felt a HP gain. But the quieter idle and HUGE ammount of engine bay room you gain by ditch the shroud is amazing. I can see the whole front of the engine easily, and reach down there with the car running without fear of getting my arm chopped off by that blade haha

I think the fuel filter is overlooked in many cars, they need to be changed fairly often and can cause a havok on your cars performance, especially if your cheap like me and drive the car until its gargling the dirty gas in the bottom of the tank. Ive changed mine twice and I dont drive alot of miles New plugs and a cleaned MAF brought my car back to life, intake/exhaust and a little porting probably helped.

If you have to ask.... The wiring alone blows my mind

This isnt surface rust guys, ths is deep embedded rust I have researchged por15, it does seems like a great option that would work, just probably the most expensive Was hoping there were similar products

For my whole life Ive pretty much just painted rusty metal parts with tremclad or rustoleum type spray rust paints. The kind of spray paint that takes forever to dry. And it kinda work, but rusts does eventually come through or the paint just goes away I dont know. Im looking for a REAL rust paint. I have a half sheet of thick metal chicken wire Im trying to turn into a very thin roof rack to tie camping gear to for the summer, the sheet is rusted entirely, sat outside almost 6 weeks and its rust is pretty bad and built up, but it is THICK chicken wire so there is plenty of good metal under there. I want to paint straight over this rust, maybe I would beat the sheet with a wire wheel but all the rust definetely isnt going to be gone. Roll it on, spray it on whatever. I just want to be able to use the rack for the year and not get any clothes/bags/tents/girls or anything I put it on get rusty. Im probably going to end up having to order the stuff online. But I want the best bang for the buck stuff that is going to WORK I am open to anything so I wont even mention the products Ive looked into so far

wire up a cheap (or good if you keep it permanent) foglight in its spot, on a toggle or be baller and wire it to relay Theres a newer camaro in my town that took out the headlights for show I assume and put in 2 oval ricer foglights. Would save you the police hassle

I hope it was a single driver in that suv, definitely dead on impact

Pretty easy to fab one for yourself with an angle grinder, drill and 2" square tube. Mine took longer for the paint to dry than it did to make the thing Sure there cheap to buy, but making stuff is fun!!

Definetely go aluminum if the build quality is there

Do yo think greasing the driveshaft only grease the front of the shaft, or does grease somehow make it to the back. I still have that vibration/clank and Im thinking my lack of EVER greasing that fitting could be helpful... but I dont have a grease gun just yet

Just pull the lower rad hose to save time, and run a garden hose thru the cap opening/upper hose to flush the rad a bit. I personally wouldnt waste time or money on a cooling system that is leaking though. That rad needs replacing and can be replaced for $100. Use distilled water only, never tap water

my 2wd diff only took about 1.8 quarts. I bought 2 single quarts and still had a splash left so im just guessing

Yeah the passenger side was in poor condition, when I first inspected it, there was no boot coverring the star wheel adjuster hole, and I think you are right about the shoe hold down pin breaking and letting the shoe go free and causing that damage.

So I may still have a problem with my driveshaft, but this problem superseeds that for the day lol. These springs dont looks to forgiving!!

Well last night I took the Qx4 on the highway for the first time in a while (probably since this started) and on the way home it developed a WICKED vibration/bounce from the rear end during low speed braking. When I got home I touched both back drums and noticed the passenger rear was wayyy to hot. So ofcourse I slept in today, but when I took off the drum. Check what I found.... Ya, shoe wasnt even attached to the wheel cylinder... Those pads are pretty shot from being run like that, and the drum has some good grooves, and I pulled the drivers side off and everything looks pretty good over there. But since I live in a small town there are no places open to turn my drums. So I just bought everything new, might aswell do both sides obviously. Was pretty surprised they had everything in stock . Wasnt to bad, only $220 for new drums, shoes, hardware and 3 cans of brake clean

That was probably the best hour and a half I ever spent reading. Learned alot, thank you for sharing. I didnt use a brand in my diff that was in the test. But I sure am going to try and find some Amsoil/Mobil 1 now!!

IS it important to mention that this is a florida, USA 2wd?? I brought her to canada Eh

Tranny was rebuilt 18 months ago. Hope it has nothing to do with that. I definetely think it is something at the VERY rear end of the shaft, either that play in the shaft, or maybe there is a bearing right at the front of the case where the driveshaft enters it? I cant "feel" it coming from anything when its all spinning and my head is a foot away lol, but the noise was definetely was coming from this area. Im unsure of all what could be inside this area. Am I allowed to take the driveshaft apart in 2 pieces, like in the pic I posted above where I red squared the 2 bolting points. It seems this driveshaft is 2 pieces...

Only 6 people watched my video?? Shart I was hoping for a million hits lmao

Damn that video sucks eh. I was able to recreate the noise while the car was on stands, not as bad as I think it is while driving. But atleast I got a video of the noise. Its DEFINETELY coming from the very back of the driveshaft. This area And this is a video of the noise coming from that area with the car in drive on stands, hope its audible, I can hear it if I turn the volume up a little So Im thinking it is actually related to that play at the very back of the shaft like I thought. Or is there a bearing or something in the case of the rear end? Is it worth it to pull the back half of the driveshaft off by unbolting it from these two areas? Is that ok? Maybe I would see something.... What do you guys think??

Here is a video I made tying the camera under the car. Probably to shaky to watch, but the audio is kinda good. I started off just rolling, then drove @ 20mph I also did the gear changing test. The noise is MOST pronounced while in 1st gear, then as you shift into second it got weaker, and when I put it in drive, it sounded like it does in the video. I dont have any clear roads with straight stretches here in the city though. Hope the video helps, Ive got a 12 hour shift then I hope to resolve this problem

Not like that. The brake passenger brake drum was hotter than the drivers side after a 20 min drive On stands with the car in D, the drivers side spins first, but if you slow the drivers side tire with your hand, the passenger starts spinning then. They both spin easily in neutral Im going to make that video this very second I hope the noise is audible while driving

Im going to tie my camera under the car in the morning and tape this noise, it has got to be identifiable by an experienced hand just by the noise itself. I will also do the RPM test Spark plugs were changed when I got it with the proper NGK's, tranny fluid was mint a week ago when I changed my engine oil. I have traffic court early in the morning, so Ill have the video up early, Ill probably just pull the driveshaft while I wait for some replies though (and Ill line mark everything so it can be installed the same) Thanks guys

I think I may change the ujoint first. Seems fairly straight forward assuming the whole driveshaft just unbolts from the 2 ends and the carrier in the middle? But changing the joint didnt seem to easy, but atleast if I cant bang it out I can simply bring the shaft to a non big name shop and have them change it. Assuming I have big trouble, it seemed fairly hard to swap them watching a few youtube videos Just the way it made the noise 5X as loud for the brief second as I went over the train tracks rough, makes me think its something that is changing angle/binding whatever you wanna call it. I'll have to hope for good weather tomorrow and try to remove the driveshaft, seems like the only true way to know if the ujoint is bad is to pull the shaft and try and pivot it

Well my drums are quite old, I dont know when the last time they were serviced was, but Ive only had to car for 30k miles. Both rear wheels are adjusted fine. Both spin a 1/3 rotation before stopping with a light spin. Drivers side might be a touch looser than the passenger side and thats why it spins first. Maybe I should adjust them so both rear wheels spin when in drive on jackstands??