WOT

I have polyurethane bushing in all the upper and lower trailing arms, and there in perfect condition and bolts are tight. Just checked that. I cant replicate the noise when the car is on jackstands, it just doesnt do it. But my right rear wheel also isnt spinning when its on stands, only the drives side spins in drive. And the right side rear wheel is the drum that gets hot. I almost want to take the drum off, but I fear I wont be able to get it back on and Ill be stuck trying to do my first drum brake job with no specialty tools. A stethescope on the driveshaft sounds difficult, but ill see if I can find an affordable one at the part store

Ya I cant hear anything when its on stands. Seems smooth. I can maybe try with a helper today to bounce the car a little while the rear end is supported. Tires are brand new, but it made the noise with my winter 2 weeks ago aswell so tires arent the cause. How does a bad ujoint react

Theres definetely a mechanical rubbing/grinding noise going on. Its not so much a vibration anymore since I got rid of my airlift1000 kit, its more of a very faint vibration but the noise is getting more noticeable. I may tape my camera under the car tomorrow and go for a low speed drive This is to hard to explain over the internet. What are the sure signs of a bad u-joint

plastidip is a very reliable way to paint badges and such black. And if you dont like it one week or one year down the road, just peel it back with no ill affects to the piece you sprayed over. And its cheap as balls

Any chance this could be a break issue?? I noticed that the passenger rear drum was unbarrably hot with my bare hands, while the drivers side was hot, but I could hold my hand on it... I noticed the other day when I had the car in drive on jackstands to. Only the drivers side wheel spins but the passenger stays still, until you hold the drivers wheel with your hand then the passenger side would start rotating. Does this indicate anything?? Both wheels can be spun fairly freely while in nuetral in the air Only thing that makes me think it may NOT be breaks, and is my driveshaft/drivetrain is because when I went over train tracks tonight, as my suspension came down going over both the tracks I noticed the noise get louder for the breef second the suspension was loaded, and the noise repeated over the next track. Which to me would happen when the driveshaft and such changed angles Where would you guys start??

How do you "check" a ujoint. I only have one u joint connection at the front of the driveshaft right? I thought my second video would show proof of a specific type of problem for sure, its supposed to move like that??

I remember when I used a nissan 300zx TT rad cap (1.3 bar) and blew that top plastic cap right off!

Its very possible that the front wheels dont have weights, but the rears were just changed last week with fresh rubber. And thats were I feel the vibration coming from so Ill have to check When the car feels like its HOPPING at low speeds, can that really be caused by an unbalanced tire?

I got my all aluminum off ebay 3 years ago.Fit like OEM, Made by Summit. I dont have any of the info or part number from the purchase though You could easily fit in any similar rad if you can fabricate simple brackets, get a nice thick core one meant for a v8 or something and throw some electric fans on it SOOOOOO much room is gained in our engine bays by ditching the fan and shroud

Well Im open to any diagnosing. I need this fixed DIY asap. Its not a constant noise so I dont know what to do. I also couldnt recreate the noise leaving the car in gear on jackstands, it ran mint and smooth. But going down the road, sometimes it vibrates and hops, sometimes is fine. On my ride home from work just now it didnt vibrate so much at all, but I noticed a "click/clank" while reversing into my parking spot...

Well I was conversing with my dad about this problem and he told me that a year ago when I left my truck at his house so he could torch out my trailing arm bolts, that he screwed up my rear end. He said he moved the car with the trailing arms disconnected and the rear end twisted upwards with the driveshaft. He said some little plate got all bent but he cut it off and it seemed fine. So I hopped under the car and sure enough it looks like there is something missing right at the end of the driveshaft before it enters the rear end. I also notice more play in this area, not so much up and down movement like my last video, but more front to back play. At the end of this video I think my camera picks it up the most. Turn up the volume!! Could this be the cause?? While in park I can twist/shake the driveshaft to make some decent clanking noises I have no idea what needs replacement though, Ive never touched a driveshaft before

On my Qx4 there is a little plate on the firewall, drivers side almost against the fender to the right of the brake resevoir. It was just a little plate held by 2 M8 nuts, that aparently did nothing. I took the plate out and its big enough for my 4 3/0 welding wire runs to fit in there Maybe the plate is used in the 5spd version. Worth a check

You think that rear spring is short?? LOL lemme go take a picture of mine!+ Ive never bottomed it out either. Those are 4x4parts lowerring springs + 500lb stereo lol

I drive like an idiot Wide Open Throttle

Looks like pretty good fab to me. thanks for sharing

Really, play in that bushing is normal. Hmmmm Didnt expect that

Basically I have had a vibration coming from what feels like the rear of the car for a while. Only while moving, its very smooth while idling/completely stopped. Happens most violently under braking. It smooths out on the highway but low cruising speeds its quite noticeable, and while braking it almost feels like the tires are hopping. But it also happens when the brakes arent being used so I dont think it has anything to do with them So obviously its something thats rotating. No play in either rear wheels either. SO I took a look at my driveshaft. I notice there is a bushing/carrier in the near center of the shaft that seems in poor condition. I can push the driveshaft up a good 1/2" easily at this bushing point. Here is a pic of the bushing and its general location Also if I put the car in nuetral there was some front to back and even a little side to side play at the very end of the drive shaft, seemed like more than just the "play" in the gears. But when I put it in park everything kind of firmed up. I made a video of the play in the center section of the shaft. Mines 2wd so I dont know if the design is the same as most of your guys. But Im just pushing up with one hand here showing the play in this bushing Im hoping to get some experienced help on how to diagnose the vibration without just shotgunning expensive parts at it. Thanks guys

Looks nice I envy how easy it must be to crawl under the truck

Thanks guys, just wanted to make sure I wasnt an idiot changing out everything BUT the tie rods

So this weekend I was planning on doing a little front end suspension overhaul. New kyb struts and bellow, beck/arnley balljoints, beck/arnley stabilizer endlinks. And I also have some stainless goodridge brake lines. So the only thing Im really leaving out on the front wheels is the inner and outer tie rods. I dont feel any play in my tires, nor do the outers look damaged. Are tie rods something I should just do?? There quite expensive here and Im not exactly rich, but I dont mind doing them if there going to be failing. I believe the outers were changed when I bought the truck a few years ago during the safety inspection, but Im not 100% Whats your guys take on tie-rod replacement? Ive never done inners before on any car either Thanks!!

Be honest, you said your parents paid for this turbo/labour etc, would they spring for a new engine if it popped to?? VQ35 + FMU as engine management = ticking time bomb It is impressive though, pat your mechanic on the back

Left side of the shift knob

Its been broken a long time I think

Definitely broken, crazy how it tore apart OEM out pretty easily actually and sitting on the floor but it wasnt one piece anymore.. Hope the rockauto factory replacement holds up

I used to. Then I just deleted it like an idiot and put train horns / compressor there