WOT

Theres a trick to silicone spray, put all the windows down as far as possible. Shake up the can stick the thin nozzle into both window tracks per window, so 8 different lube points. With the window down you can easily see the track of the window. Spray down those tracks LIBERALLY, no little squirt squirt, it takes alot of lube to clean out a dirty track, takes me a whole can the first time I do it everyyear. I used maybe 1/3 can everytime I just feel like doing it, you really want to lube those tracks and get the gunk out. Throw the window up and down a couple times, repeat if you want. The most important part is just geting right into the track so your not just lubing the inside of your door and are actually geting the track, and most people just spray for 1-2 seconds and think there done. SOAK IT I live on a dirt road so I do this $3 treatment twice or so a year

Check it cold on a perfectly level surface is the method I found best to find out tranny fluid levels. After the car has been running the dipstick seems to get some blowby or oil run off down the dipstick tube that gives hard to verify readings. I just check my trans oil after its been sitting for atleast 2 hours or so, make sure all the oil has settled down. And I would definetely put it back into the spec region of the dipstick, I dont know of a way to remove just a bit of fluid though, maybe just loosen the drain plug until it JUST starts to slowly drip and let however much you want drip out... would be kinda tough lol get er done

Does anyone know of a good write up for drum brake replacement/overhaul?

Well mother nature screwed me out of my drive and my g/f's flight is delayed til tomorrow but you think my thermostat is fudged?? Because the coolant wants to burst out when the car is off and I want to release the rad cap?? What do you mean when you say "release the pressure from the system?? (open the cap?) Im fine working with coolant, but I think I remember the last time I tried to open the rad cap after the car was slightly warm and the car was running @!*% got bad real fast and coolant came a gushin haha I bought a new thermostat and housing and hoses just because Im stupid for not doing it 2 weeks ago when I did everything else and I got a STEAL of a price on everything.

I poured slowly and squeezed the upper and lower hoses Im sure, and when I pop the cap in my driveway and squeeze them there are no bubbles coming out. I also noticed that once when I popped my rad cap, coolant felt like it was going to rush up, car was completely cold, but as I was turning it slowly open I felt pressure coming up and I think some coolant rushed into the overflow...

I did some reading in the FSM about 2 coolant drain plugs on the block aswell, didnt know if those were necessary, or should be used. The girgling is kinda pissing me off though. Im going to pick up my girlfriend an hour away tonight so Ill be ssure to check the lower rad hose after that drive.

EDIT: please just scrool down to post #10/11, new updates Hey guys, Im having a bit of a mind bender on my coolant system. I think I may just not have done the procedure correctly. I installed a new rad 2 weeks ago, just a factory replacement from a local rad shop. Put the new rad in, hooked the lines back up, filled it with coolant, drove, topped it up. Never thought about it again. Now for the heck of it I popped the cap on the weekend and it needed maybe 500ml before it overflowed the rad. And now im noticing some "gurgling" water noises coming the hoses under my dash upon startup and first acceleration. I popped the cap twice today after random driving and both times it wasnt as full as when I closed the cap. I also noticed that after my 20min drive my lower rad hose was still COLD... mind you its really cold here, but I think the thermostat should have openned... So Im quite nervous of overheating this beauty VQ engine. Does anyone have any insight on how to cure this?? I just orderred an OEM thermostat and housing and new upper and lower hoses. And also the 2 hoses in the bottom middle of the rad that I think go to the cooler. Any insight on how to do this right the second time around would be much appreciated. I figure a new thermostat and housing and hoses and a full fill with the proper coolant and distilled water is a start!! Thanks! sorry if this is so long I even took alot out lol

I sold my mint black one on ebay for a pretty penny.

straight from the factory bo

Nylon dash tool removers you say eh... Are they common in stores?? Hell I would love to get away from my method of puting a piece of electrical tape over a flat head screw driver!!

I know Im the odd-ball lol I think it would be hard to have them honor a lifetime warranty on something like a balljoint. But if you were to try that, would you just call them up to make sure they have 2 in stock, take your broken ones off, take another vehicle to the store and try and get them to exchange for free?? Id be very pissed if I pulled the ones off to find out they wont exhcnage them or something Im debating going with a warranty one, but dont know what options there are in canada, my truck seems to eat these things though

Im very interested. if you could pm me when you can a price for a pair of them shipped to ontario with maybe a pic and some info on them (width/metal type) Id appreciate it and probly take some off your hands, a pic would help to Finally put my pipe bender to good use lol Id love to do this mod and make a little thread about it, would probably look pretty nice in the engine bay to

Ive messed with Moog, cheap ebay, napa house brand. All suck to me Im back to oem now and they are the only ones that have made it past 10k miles or so. But they were $210ish canadian at the dealer for the pair Mind you my truck is lowerred and maybe that means it eats them a little faster. The cheap ebay ones were the worst, didnt last 2 weeks

Ive got geolanders for the winter to. They work great

my front pump broke and I was in a pinch so I just put the rear window pump to the front line... ghetto... Id love to fix it, but thought I had to buy oem, didnt think another nissan may fit my 01

I dont have my car close to me now or I would measure the protrucing threads but that OEM nut has got to be 3/4" thick you can buy a thinner higher grade metal one to save some thread and probably fit a 3/8" flange no problem I know Ive got (2) 3/16" battery lugs under one of the strut bolts and felt fine with how much threads it grabbed (I think it may have still came out of the back of the bolt) Good point though, definetely something Ill have to remember to look at before starting, I really do want to make one of these though, most likely wrapping around the front of the engine to avoid the crazy upward angle that I think I would have a hard time retaining rigdity with

50ft/lbs on a smalll n/a v8 out of headers and an exhaust.... ? Salt please

I bought mine from this place. For any canadian, or anyone for that matter, this place is dirt cheap, oem, and does actual shipping. I paid $105 USD shipped for the maxima maf and tube to the GTA http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330498217353&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

He can CNC cut whatever material you want Id imagine. Ive seen alot of billet aluminum spacers \ I was just putting his name out there incase someone wanted to actually do it since it doesnt look like there is a product developed yet

I did some checking today and the strut mounted upper cross bar definetely would be a hard thing to do. But I heard a few guys saying they couldnt fit a bar across the top of the motor and the hood. I placed a 13/16" solid bar across my engine and the hood shut no problem. BUT, like mentionned there is a clutter of things in the way and there is a 4-5" height difference from the top of the strut tower to the top of the engine. So making this pretty wont be easy as you have to go up at a prety step angle. I almost want to curve a bar around the front of the engine.... If I could buy a set of strut flanges off of you Shift220, I could come up with something.

It says the Q Industries MV50 has a max working voltage of 13.7 Do you think that really matters?? Would be a bummer to not be able to use it with the car running and charging at 14.7 and have to have the car off to use it

Aaron from weirtech.ca (GTA, Canada) makes all my custom flanges and one off pieces I need, all he needs is a gasket and he can make the part in metal with perfect accurate cnc holes and tapped holes and everything. Can use whatever thickness metal you want. Hes made atleast 15 flanges for me, and like I said all he needs is a gasket and he can make it with whatever metal whatever thickness, and has more than fair prices for CNC machine work. I pay less than $30 each for my flanges, id expect to see a t/b spacer in the $30 range form him, and in intake spacer maybe $50 EDIT: he does price breaks if you can start up group buys and such to, I got some of my honda friends and online friends to buy about 50 of the same flange and it cut the cost down alot

The car knowing an accurate tempature of the cars incoming air so it can adjust timing/fuel isnt important?? Cmon now....

nothing for VQ??

Would probably cost alot to get your drivetrain to be able to hold the power though, oem clutch aint going to cut it @ 250+ foot pounds lol