Towncivilian

Thanks for the information and pictures. I will be installing a Magnefine in-line transmission filter in around 450 miles so this information saved me some time. Is that a Fram oil filter I see?

I think you can call a dealership and give them the VIN to find out whether it's affected or not.

It should fit fine. A local auto parts store claims to have an "OEM" branded aftermarket in-cabin air filter for $20. Maybe I'll try that. Current air filter is some $27 NAPA air filter due for replacement soon.

Radio Shack reviews seem favorable in terms of durability. Even if it breaks it's only $20. I rarely (never) go off-road (2WD + open diff + highway tires = fail) so my only enemy is wind and maybe drive-thru height limits. Can always buy a spring later if I feel it's required. Not quite sure why I'm installing the CB radio even, but it's likely useful for notification of traffic/accidents on the highway by truckers or emergencies in areas where there's no cell reception. Or maybe it's not worth wasting the money, still torn about it.

The fuel gauge uses a sending unit and its operation has nothing to do with the fuel pump. I'd check fuel pressure, preferably with a gauge. If a gauge is not available try feeling the fuel lines to guesstimate if you have adequate pressure. Hell, try changing the fuel filter first, even. If you run down to empty often this can hasten buildup in the filter because sediment can be sucked in from the bottom of the fuel tank. No engine codes? Make sure your SES bulb works by engaging parking brake and setting ignition to "ON". Perhaps try cleaning your MAF sensor too and verify that the IACV's harness is connected (maybe unplug and replug).

I'm looking to mount this antenna from RadioShack. I think mounting it on the fender would be the simplest way to mount it. Will something like this work fine as a mount + cable? Will I need a spring?

Well, here's where the FSM says the fuel filter is for a VG30E: I own an R50 so I don't know exactly where that is. But the fuel filter will be a silver canister. Verify the hoses are on snugly on both ends and the clamps are tightened and about 3mm from the hose ends. Try to follow the fuel lines to see if there's any leaks or damage.

Check your fuel filter hose connections along with other fuel lines. The fuel filter will be mounted somewhere on the firewall. I don't know where the rest of the fuel lines will be.

I discussed this issue with a different service adviser at my local dealership. He said that they must try cleaning first, but also said that cleaning never worked to fix this problem. So he agreed to do the warranty work to fix my seatbelts not retracting and skip the cleaning attempt. I will set up an appointment for after May 16th so I can get the seatbelt work done plus the anti-corrosion sealant applied for the driver's side strut (new recall) assuming I'm affected.

My clock didn't light up until I tapped on it when I started the car earlier. I will have to disassemble the clock to examine the solder joints soon.

So, do you have an in-cabin filter? If not, are you going to add one?

Ha, maybe you're the victim of this guy's prank.

Junkyard. My rubber covers were surprisingly fine, but maybe Florida's weather and lack of road salt helps with that. Both of my front switches were broken and I retrofitted some pre-facelift R50 door switches onto my 2001.5 to fix them. Or if you want new ones the part number is 25369. Expensive at ~$7.50, though.

Changed the fuel filter, using a NAPA Gold 3023 (Wix rebranded). Old filter was a NAPA Proselect. The damn fuel line hoses were a bitch to get off, they gave my right hand some blisters. I didn't spill nearly as much fuel or take as much time this time around, since I removed the spare tire. It really helped that I'm able to sit underneath the trunk, too.

According to EL-29 of the FSM, your headlight power is routed through the stalk switch on the steering column (unless I'm reading the schematic incorrectly). A faulty switch could be causing your lighting issues and may have caused your OEM headlight socket to melt, too. You're saying the high beam indicator is lit even if the low beams are on?

I can get you a junkyard light stalk (without auto light control) for $5 + shipping if you want.

You bet. Basically, myself and a few friends are the only ones who will ever notice the small imperfections of the new back door. To be honest maybe it was just better to leave the dented door on to save some cash, as after all everything still worked. But, whatever! I think it looks great for the relatively little amount of money spent. I'll have to ask around at some body shops to fix the quarter panel, primarily to fix the dent underneath the taillight and secondly to get the door closing properly.

Nissan had to weld the strut bracket on, they couldn't drill the broken bolt out because there was the tip of our broken drill bit in it. Also, due to other damage caused by the collision to the driver rear quarter panel, the door is misaligned: The door grazes the taillight every time it closes. I managed to shift the taillight enough so it doesn't significantly scrape the door and the door closes on the first try. Nissan charged $100 for the weld, and $50 to run the wiring harness through the door. The bolt I broke turned out to be a $100 mistake.

Put the rear Nissan emblem back on my door using some 3M adhesive tape, cleaned the windows, put front mudflaps back on, and fixed my overfull power steering fluid reservoir.

This thread on NICOclub has instructions on replacing the filter. Instructions for cutting out a slot for the filter are here.

I've actually reused the glass hatch weather stripping when I swapped my door on Saturday, I'm wondering whether it'll stay weatherproof. Time will tell I guess. What "hard plastic quarter round" things are you talking about?

If you use store-brand (generally a Dexcool clone) antifreeze, make sure your cooling system does not have leaks, or your cooling system will be brown and rusty, because air + Dexcool = cavitation which leads to rust, and it doesn't help that Dexcool doesn't spec either silicates (Nissan coolant is non-silicated) or phosphates (good for protection). More info at BITOG. I just stick with Nissan OEM + distilled water to avoid confusion and headaches.

Washed it and cleaned interior using some Armor All wipes. Still gotta use some tire shine garbage, vacuum, wipe down the trunk trim, and clean the windows. Thinking about putting running boards and front mudflaps back on too.

Revving to 6.5k on a cold start?