Towncivilian

Yeah, I decided not to futz around with the switch. Only if I find a junkyard stalk will I bother trying to fix it. Perhaps I'll ask the service adviser at the dealership to see if the master tech or someone knows why it could be messed up off the top of their head.

All I did was clean the windshield and the back side windows (windows are down right now, too lazy to roll em up), and slap a couple hard drive magnets on both my oil and fuel filters. They're probably useless on the fuel filter as the filter should catch any ferrous particles and rust, but these magnets were just sitting around collecting dust so I figured why not.

There is a TSB for 2001 R50s with a squeak/rattle coming from the right hand dash area, but you have a 2003. Maybe there's a screw or something in your blower motor cage?

Hmm, so I guess I should use either the Duplicolor Trim paint or truck bed coating? Will any Rustoleum primer work fine? I think I'll forgo clearcoat as I don't need shininess from the trim. How do I take off the fender flares? Front bumper looks easy to remove, basically some clips and screws, right? I don't need to remove the grille or anything else?

Thanks for the informative and quick replies guys! Will that Duplicolor spray paint really hold up to the job long-term? I'd imagine it'd be ok for the fender flares and rear bumpers, but the front bumper would need to withstand rocks, bugs, etc... Could I possibly use some Rustoleum BBQ (high-temp resistant) paint with a spray gun?

Anybody painted their bumpers & fender flares before? I'm thinking of painting them black along with the mudflaps, to mimic the look of earlier R50s. Any suggestions on what kind of paint to use? Since everything's plastic, how do I go about preparing the surface for paint? Do I use clear coat?

Got a picture?

There were no loose parts last time I had the door panel off a few weeks ago, but I didn't examine anything window-related closely. Besides checking for loose parts, anything else I should look for specifically? Perhaps lubricate the window regulator directly?

Anybody have any suggestions on what to look at inside the door?

Okay then, I'll be on the lookout for a correct wiper stalk at a junkyard. Thanks for the quick help guys. Maybe I'll disassemble the wiper switch and clean it out with some isopropyl alcohol first.

I've held the fluid on for over 10 seconds before, they don't wipe.

According to a blurb of text in the FSM, the wipers are supposed to wipe several times automatically when you pull the wiper stalk toward you to spray some fluid (as what happens when you use the "wash" function on the rear wiper switch). This doesn't happen for me. Is this really the intended behavior? If so, I'm guessing the wiper amp in my wiper stalk is malfunctioning. I know the older R50s have a front wiper amp in the engine bay, but it seems that mine is in the wiper stalk itself. Luckily, nothing else is wrong with my front wipers, so I wouldn't shell out for another just to fix the "wipe when washing" issue. Maybe if I find a clean one at a junkyard I'd pick it up. FSM blurb: The intermittent dial thing works fine on my wiper stalk.

You can download it, right click -> save as for every PDF and put them in the same folder, then use fwd.pdf to navigate. I've never done the idle air relearn so I dunno if you'd be doing it right. The procedure involving the pedal is listed here but it's for 2003-2004 R50s. I would keep trying the one in the 01.5 FSM.

Other than revised coil packs, I'm not too sure of any other differences exist between the 01 and 01.5s. You can also input your VIN in the Nissan FAST system and it will tell you if you have a 01.5 model in the "References" dialog box. Or call your local parts dept. and ask them, just give them your VIN. But I'm pretty sure these numbers are correct; my 10/00 mfg. date PF is an 01.5 so yours surely is as well. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/2001.5_Pathfinder/

Dates 01/01/2000-08/31/2000 are 2001s and 09/01/2000-06/30/2001 are 2001.5s. You have one of the last 2001.5 model years!

What are the consequences of having a leaky rear main seal? Just small oil drips, or can oil mix with the ATF?

Do you know the part numbers? All I see on Courtesy Parts is the hinge assemblies themselves. Are the pins/bushings not sold individually? I lubed the window tracks with a lot of silicone spray and it seemed to almost eliminate the shuddering for a couple up/down cycles, but it returns shortly afterwards. It still seems a little lessened, but not completely gone. I'm assuming something is misaligned?

Drilled a hole and tried popping the metal back into shape using an Allen key and some pliers, didn't work. Sanded to bare metal and Bondo-ing tomorrow. Door has a few cm of vertical play. What do I need to replace? Also, the window shudders about halfway when going down. Anybody know a possible cause? Going up is fine. I'll try to get a video to help illustrate the problem. I didn't have this issue about 6 months ago.

Remove the bottom bolts on both sides, remove the mudflap bolts, remove the 6 (or fewer, some have likely fallen off by now) clips visible when opening the rear door.

Passed 124k miles. Also put an OEM rubber bumper on the rear passenger door since the original fell off at some point. $8.

A laptop from 2001 with no battery, and a router that has firmware issues (if power goes out, it dies and must be reflashed IIRC, but DD-WRT might have fixed that), hmmm... not too much of value there. Plus I use the cargo shade. Probably the most valuable thing in the trunk is a 120W can-size power inverter from China that'll surely burn the car down eventually, and the USB OBDII scanner I bought for $28.

I've also been told it's gay. I can see the remaining fluid in the lighter when held up to the light, so I find white's more useful than the other colors.

I really don't have much. Fire extinguisher Dwindling roll of 3M electrical tape ~2qts of engine oil, ~1qt PSF, ~1qt ATF, a can of brake cleaner. I say ~ because all of the bottles have a small amount used. Some spare windshield washer hose A bunch of damn trim clips pocketed from junkyard Pathfinders An extra oil pan drain plug Some small 1/4" drive socket sets 1/2" drive torque wrench with 10mm, 14mm, 19mm sockets, and a 1/2" to 3/8" reversible socket converter 1/4" drive torque wrench A plastic box filled with random computer cables, a Linksys wireless router, and a toothbrush & floss in a Ziploc bag A Gateway Solo 9300 laptop running Windows XP A Gateway PS/2 keyboard Half-empty touch-up paint bottle from Nissan, with a bunch of paint all over the damn bottle Bunch of installation media for various editions of Windows XP, Vista, 7, and Office 2007 and 2010 Random music CDs I never listen to anymore since I got a head unit with auxiliary input One white Bic lighter Some napkins More random tools (ratcheting screwdriver, box cutter, a short & stubby screwdriver, some pliers and wire cutters) in the bottom center console compartment The glove box contains the owner's manual, some spare fuses, instruction booklet for the fire extinguisher, and 4 or 5 receipts for parts from Nissan and another receipt from AAP. And the pair of safety glasses I just got for free. And of course, insurance and registration cards. I really should at least get some quality jumper cables, and give away the spare 2 quarts of make-up oil I've got and just keep one quart instead. Maybe keep a gallon of distilled water for coolant or drinking in an emergency. Should prolly throw in some toilet paper and some disposable cups too. Can you tell that I'm a computer technician?

Well, I found the cooler I pulled off of the junked Pathfinder on Courtesy Parts. Scroll down about halfway down the page (or view the second exploded parts view): http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-r50-1996-2004/genuine-nissan-parts/power-train/310-auto-transmissiontransaxle-fitting/-c-4700_4701_4769_4774.html It looks like I missed the bottom bracket, maybe I'll have to go get it from the junkyard to see if it'll fit my R50. But then again I've already bought a better cooler, just not had time to install it yet. I doubt a power steering cooler would be worth my effort - I think switching to a synthetic ATF in the PS system would work just as well in my case.

Page BR-27 has a parking brake adjustment procedure that you can try.