Towncivilian

I already said that

I thought we were limited at like 111 mph or something. I dunno how to remove any such limiter, the FSM likely doesn't say much about it. I'd imagine it's something in the ECU or maybe TCM. I don't think I'd like to try seeing how fast I can go - I've got a spare on right now, and my suspension and brakes aren't too great either.

Yeah, I would fix it if I could have for $671. I'd still love to know where you got that estimate.

123,456

I have the same leak, about the same amount too. Nissan wants $1800 to fix. Screw that. I think mine's been leaking since around 100k, and I have 123,465 miles on it right now. Don't use Lucas, it's just some crappy thick gear oil that shouldn't be in your crankcase - it causes cavitation (aeration of oil) too. Try using M1 10W-40 High Mileage for a few oil changes, it might slow it down or even stop it. $671? Where did you get that quote at?

I have some I'll never use again. I will see if they're detachable from the speakers, if they're not you'll have to pay for shipping the speakers too. The speakers themselves do not have the black plastic bracket around them. They all look like this: (example of one of the rear door speakers) Considering the speakers are $375 new (ha), I'll sell both of my front ones to you for $40 + shipping if you'd like. The left front would drop out once in a while, but this may have been due to a wiring fault with my head unit.

Put the spare tire on, probably the first time it's ever been used. Driver's side rear tire was completely flat.

Here are the photos for my version of the fog light relay mod (yuck, I should have used heat shrink instead of electrical tape around the alligator clip, as well as a shorter wire!): It's pretty hacky. If you run a +12v that's ignition sourced from elsewhere you can avoid cutting up the A/C relay's cover. And here's how I did the high beam mod (fogs stay on with brights): Locate the ground wire in the fog light connector (middle pin generally; check your FSM), cut and strip it, solder on an extension (or a quick disconnect for easy removal later; I believe all other exterior lights must turn off if brights are on in certain states for safety inspections), crimp on a ring terminal on the other end and screw it under a grounded screw. Try not to use too much length for an extension like I did, though. Very simple mod! Apologies for the crappy pictures, but they should suffice I think. Soldering the quick disconnect/ring terminals on after crimping, then electrical taping, then heatshrink will result in the most durable wire, but since this is a 3-inch ground wire you can probably get by with just crimping it on. Hope this helps guys, if you need more info let me know.

My R50 does not have much debris: And this is the blower motor, no debris found inside: It's pretty dusty though. Blower motor housing (I should have wiped it clean when the motor was out... what's all the red stuff? ): 1-year-old NAPA Gold filters, they still seem serviceable for 6 months (sorry about poor lighting here, forgot to turn on flash): I tried unsuccessfully to remove the bottom airbox assembly to better access the area to vacuum, but failed. I removed the front clip and the 4 visible screws, but it didn't come off with a little force so I gave up and buttoned it back up. I found this TSB that speaks of some blower motor noise (ticking, humming) at lower speeds (1 or 2). Looks like I'll be needing the cover. I recorded a video of the noise:

Courtesy Parts does not have any "accent stripes" listed for the WD21s. Goo Gone might be of help to remove that glue residue.

[80820] MOULDING ASSY-FRONT DOOR OUTSIDE,RH [80821] MOULDING ASSY-FRONT DOOR OUTSIDE,LH [82820] MOULDING-REAR DOOR OUTSIDE,RH [82821] MOULDING-REAR DOOR OUTSIDE,LH They still for sale but they're prohibitively expensive.

Looks like a Bondo job for the quarter panel, but whatever. Still gotta paint the bumper (debating whether to paint it black or stock trim color) and the quarter panel. MAACO wants like $200 to paint the quarter panel. Should I just mask it off and spray it myself instead for $30?

Bad MAF wiring? That's just a guess pulled outta my butt, I don't even know what those codes mean. Inspect the MAF wiring closely for fraying or other damage. Maybe tighten ground screws too.

Hell, I'd go backwards and buy a WD21 or D21. I prefer the old styling vs. my R50, but I'm so glad to not have ended up with an R51!

I'll swing by AAMCO and maybe another shop and see what they quote for me then.

My service adviser said my VIN is not affected yet. I'll post if anything changes about that in the future. I will still take a glance soon, but I'm expecting either very little or no rust.

My service adviser misquoted the price - he thought I had a 3.3L engine. The cost blew up to $2000, but the service adviser was able to offer me a 10% discount. At $1800, still too much for a slow, small leak, so obviously I decided not to replace it.

Glad they've got it covered, unfortunate that your engine had enough though. Keep us updated on the progress, and drive the Accent like you stole it! Well, not really - just make sure you have enough brake fluid and oil in that loaner...

I happen to have a rear lock cylinder from an R50. It doesn't look easy to disassemble (but then again I'm no locksmith), and obviously my key doesn't turn the cylinder.

Sorry to hear about the visor being on the verge of failing, it's difficult tell how sturdy it really is while it's in the junkyard. If I ever find another gray one I'll let you know.

Same, I ran it through US 1 and 2 of FAST 12/2010 and nothing found.

I've already got a Magnefine in-line filter and the cooler itself should be arriving today (but I'm without my PF till Thursday evening or Friday morning). I don't think it's worth the effort and more money to install a temp gauge - I've got a USB ODB2 scanner, so I'll have a buddy ride shotgun with a laptop and I'll see how hot the trans gets in normal driving before and after installing the cooler. I also have the "A/T OIL TEMP" idiot light, but I haven't seen that illuminate when driving yet (but I only put a bulb there a few months ago... not even sure if it'd work as intended on my 2WD model, but it stands to reason that it would). And running the auxiliary cooler after the stock cooler is exactly what I had planned.

I believe this is the VTC solenoid. At $139.47, it sounds hell of a lot cheaper than $265.

Left it at the body shop. On Wednesday it goes to Nissan. I won't have my Pathfinder until Thursday evening at the earliest.