Towncivilian

So I can get by with replacing the struts (these are also known as shocks, correct?) by themselves? Since someone is selling a pair of lightly used pair of KYB GR-2 rear shocks for $30 + shipping and a pair for the front is also relatively inexpensive then it's quite viable.

123k on original suspension, as far as I know. I have no desire to lift it since I have little money, plus it's a 2WD with an open diff and highway tires - can't go far offroad with all of that I think without spending a ton. I'll rip that piece of hanging rubber off. So what do you suggest I do? Would replacing the struts alone (all four, perhaps?) be fine for a while, or should I save up and just replace everything eventually?

This piece of rubber is hanging from the top of the driver's side coil: What is it? It's barely hanging on, can I just rip it off? I've been hearing an occasional clunk from the driver's side wheel area, could this possibly be the cause? If somebody wants a better picture I can provide one.

The OP must have a Bose system to require an amplifier bypass. The bypass can be done by either running your own wires to the back speakers, or cutting and soldering some wires at the rear amp's wiring harness. I've done the latter and can tell you which wires to connect together based on your year's FSM if you wish.

Removed the currently useless steering wheel audio controls and put a cover from the junkyard in its place. My current head unit doesn't have the required port for a control adapter. Replaced my antenna base and nut with junkyard parts, since both my original parts were cracked and started cracking & disintegrating even more when trying to remove. Got a spare rear wiper amp from the junkyard too. I found two different looking ones from two unknown-year R50s. I got the larger one, no idea if it's the same one as mine. Nothing wrong with my current rear wiper amp, just good to have a spare. Found a broken pushpin on the plastic bracket holding the vacuum switch. Another $4 to spend at the local dealer. The vacuum piping on the single 3.3L engine in my local junkyard doesn't have the bracket, so I can't cheap out there.

In my case, my R50 is my first vehicle. It was previously my mother's car and was maintained well enough, we've owned it since new. I'm uncertain of some of its maintenance history, but other than a slow rear main seal leak, a couple bad camshaft position sensors (which caused a constant CEL for something like 3 years), and a leaky A/C low pressure hose, it's been free of issues so far to the best of my knowledge. I've been doing quite a bit of preventative maintenance (fluid changes, new spark plugs [although I didn't find the record that they were replaced at 90k miles until after changing them, so I uselessly spent $70 on plugs and 5 hours of time], filters, etc...) and nothing's been awfully difficult so far. It helps that I'm small enough to crawl underneath the car without jacking anything up - if I remove the spare tire, I can sit upright underneath the trunk. Currently at 122k miles, and I see no reason why this Pathfinder won't make it to 200k. Very little rust (Florida's good about that). The only real complaint I have is the fuel economy; I can squeeze 300 miles to a tank (~17.35mpg, 95% city driving, no A/C), but generally get around 250 with operation of A/C and some spirited driving. What can I expect from something that has the aerodynamic grace of a Coke machine, though? I'd quite happily buy another R50, and likely a WD21 or D21 (Hardbody) too, and pretty much any Nissan for that matter. I'm not too fond of the R51 (2005+) body style however.

Have you changed the fuel filter yet? An el-cheapo filter is something like $7 and as long as you replace it yearly the cheapo filter will be fine. How old are the spark plugs, and what's the change interval for them?

This is a wonderful site documenting ethanol-free gas stations in the US. The one listed for my town contains ethanol, unless I was at the wrong station

Try bleeding your brakes first. A spongy brake pedal may be caused by air or water in the system.

I had difficulty removing the driver's side sensor. It took a lot of yanking, and since the sensor was bad I didn't particularly care if I mangled it on its way out. But yeah, to be safe I'd just swap them out when you check your swirl valves (do you mean power valve screws?) and plugs, I'd imagine it'd be significantly easier without a ton of stuff in the way. Torque spec for the sensor is 64 to 95 in-lbs. I used two of these (about $55 each) vs. $80-ish for an OEM part. The new sensors looked identical to the original ones. Swapped them out in May 2010, no issues so far. I'm assuming you've already got the sensors, just posting this info if anybody else happens upon this thread.

There's a TSB that might fix your code 45 problem. Basically it adds an additional ground wire to the MAF sensor. Though a recent thread about this has a couple members suggesting that this "fix" is unnecessary and fixing the existing wiring will do just the same. But since I've never had a WD21, wait for someone else to chime in.

Polished headlights with some Meguiar's PlastX and some elbow grease. Pretty noticeable improvement, but my headlights weren't too cloudy to begin with - just some cloudiness at the tops. Looks almost completely clear now! I'm surprised this product worked so well without any sanding, etc. Hope it lasts. Also sanded down some surface rust on my transmission pan and sprayed some flat black Rustoleum over it to protect it.

This might help you.

Fuel filter for WD21s are in the engine bay. Use some fuel injector cleaner (Techron, Gumout Regane, etc) instead of Seafoam. Vehicles 1996 and newer must have OBDII ports, anything earlier might or might not. WD21s do not. Read here for instructions on how to pull your codes.

Change fuel filter too. Difficulty up hills and overtaking people or achieving higher RPMs may be caused by a clogged fuel filter.

I thought you can't wire speaker terminals backwards; either way will work, reversing the wires just reverses the phase?

Difficult to grasp what you're saying. The shift button on the shift knob presses fine, but it doesn't fully extend after pressing? I'd imagine that there's some sort of spring in there - mine, if pressed in slowly, isn't quite smooth. Some grease would probably help it. But I digress.

Check fuel lines, make sure they're not cracked or worn. Is your gas gauge accurate? Sure it's not a bad batch of gas? Try getting some gas from a different station, and run some 91 octane fuel for a few tanks.

Sending unit (or whatever that ball thing is in your fuel tank) sticking on something? I've read certain brands of fuel injector cleaners can alleviate this issue.

Try changing your fuel filter and running some fuel injector cleaner to see if that clears anything up perhaps?

A buddy's family gave that to me for my birthday. Its only real novelty is the 50 ice cream tunes, most of the animal noises are pretty crappy. Ice cream tunes are fun at intersections, you get weird looks and some laughter. Of course I don't play it too long, otherwise it annoys everybody. I'll have to get a video sometime. I guess some nuts, some more washers and some longer bolts will solve the problem. EDIT: On second thought, adding nuts would give the bar a less wider base to sit on, so maybe some L-bars or T-bars or something to mount the lights on will work better. EDIT2: Anybody have any suggestions on mounting a CB antenna on this light bar? What sort of bracket would I require?

Terrible cameraphone shot of light output on a garage door 4 feet away: They don't look that blue in person. But anyway that's just about where they top out at. What should I do? Somehow raise the bar so I can aim the lights farther?

If the transmission was in failsafe mode, doesn't the O/D OFF indicator light flash for approximately 8 seconds after coming on for 2 seconds once the engine is started? If the transmission is in failsafe mode, it's locked in third gear. EDIT:

Yeah, I know it's no biggie if it's not wherever it's supposed to be, but I'll be taking the intake tube off eventually to do the power valve screws (stripped some upper intake manifold bolts while trying to get them off while I was doing spark plugs, so need to get new bolts first ) and would like to put it where it belongs.

I have an extra rubber mounting grommet thing left over from changing out my spark plugs. Presumably it is from under a screw holding in the intake tube, as all four screws holding in my airbox has one of the grommets. Can somebody look under this screw to see if the mounting rubber is present there? Picture of mine: Mounting rubber: